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Crazy I just looked through this pic post and it has pics of my old GLI and me giving rides to people. I feel like So Cal Dubber got mad at me for driving too fast on that trip.







Here I am in the green shirt with all my fatness.
Check out this fat happy camper.

 
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TaBroMa, Kinderschlepper
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I started thinking about driving my wife’s car instead, because it has a manual and is in theory more fun. Then I took it for a lap of Big Tujunga/ACH the other day, and it, uh, needs more pah to be any kind of fun. So Roaring Taco it is.
 

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997.1 | ND2 Miata | X350 XJR
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Discussion Starter · #166 ·

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I done messed up - I thought this was happening on the 21st so I scheduled my alignment for the 19th. The BRZ may drive a little off, sorry in advance to anyone that wanted to check it out - will try my best to set the toe right this weekend with a tape measure and gumption. On that note; anyone got a good youtube video for DIY alignments? Asking for a friend 😬
 

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Whalemingo - I'm in Corona.

I've got the basics of understanding on adjusting the eccentric bolt on the toe arm. When I put in the STI rear toe arms I eye balled it. Does the car need to be four wheels on the ground or can I do it unloaded on the quick jack? I've seen folks use those low friction plates under the wheels to get them to adjust quickly and the 'string' method, which I don't know how to do.

What I plan to do is use a measuring tape from a fix point to the center point of the tire and work out the full range of motion distance, then divide by two and use that as the 'zero' point for rear toe and put both wheels there.

For the front I have the 14mm crash bolt in the upper strut mounting hole and an adjustable 16mm lower bolt. Assuming I can make the adjustment with the car in the air/wheel off, I'm confused how to get the max camber out of it because if I loosen the top crash bolt and set the lower eccentric to max negative camber and tighten, then there is no more play in the top bolt - alternatively, if I set the top crash bolt and tighten, I don't seem to get any movement on the lower eccentric... Also very difficult to keep pressure on the upper part of the hub and tighten at the same time!

Last night I stumbled on an idea new to me; putting in the STI lower subframe mount insert from the tS model. I planned to source the parts shop tonight to order the four inserts and longer subframe bolts and make this another part of the oem+ mod list. My understanding is the car would need an alignment after this anyway - so as long I get em on before the 19th...
 

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You need to do it with the wheels and suspension loaded up. Otherwise it will be out of adjustment when it hits the ground. Go get a set of those cheap plastic ramps for $20 from Harbor Freight and lower on those. it should give you enough room to slide under and make the adjustments.
 

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So bummed I can’t make it, but I managed to find a machine shop to work on the rabbit motor, so now I have to put it together.
What motor are you putting in the bunny?


Gracias - I've got a couple in the backyard, will fish em out and try it out before next weekend.
A good trick to make a low friction plate for alignment is to get a couple of aluminum or steel pieces and put lithium grease between them. Make the top plate smaller than the bottom and try to keep it from having any hard edges. Both plates need to be larger than the tire patch. And bam. temporary low friction turntables. If you don't mind spending a few bucks, here are some instructions on how to make an inexpensive set for home and track use that can be used over and over again...

DIY Automotive Wheel Alignment Turntables (itstillruns.com)
 
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