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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey vortexers

So yes after fixing so many things I have to fix more. This time. I am getting alot of oil dripping from the oil filter area.

I imagine it's the whole oil filter housing bolted to the block issue as it seems common.

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I'll have to clean it up and check it over just to make sure as I'd hate to think its only an oil filter cap or o ring issue.

My quick question is. When. I was down checking,
My oil filter cap has a cap with a plastic strong on it.

What is the purpose of the cap on tip of the oil filter cap?

I am missing this.

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Thank you in advance.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I see, thank you so much! So if I am missing this cap piece would it be possible I may have a leak from here?

I really dont suspect this. And it's cheaper/smarter to get a whole new housing with filter caps then to individually buy the cap piece to find out it is the housing itself and the housing gaskets. Seems like I get more drips when I Rev the crap out of the car too.

I'll take some photos over the weekend when I get started on this.

The filter housing though IS probably the more problem prone leak area from searching I am guessing.

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The piece that fits against the block uses O-rings to seal... Just saying...This is made easier by, at least, putting the front into "service position."




See the 3 bosses underneath the sensor beneath the 2nd runner on the intake manifold? That's where the oil filter housing bolts up to...
 

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The cap is just to protect the filter drain valve from dirt/debris. Technically speaking it's not really needed to avoid leaks and doesn't really do anything to stop leaks too much. The valve inside there is to drain the filter housing so oil doesn't go all over the place when simply removing the filter w/o draining. That said you don't really want to be missing the cap because, well, dirt/debris are going to get inside there and may cause the valve to then fail to seal correctly later on, and leak. The valve itself isn't a common leak area given it's both spring loaded and when running, oil pressure would additionally keep it shut.

At some point in time your car probably had an oil change done at a "mechanic" who removed the cap, and never reinstalled it :rolleyes: (just one of the thousands of reasons I don't let people touch my car). Now sure there's a tether on there as well but it may have broken off or the fool may have intentionally separated the tether and then, of course, forgot to put the cap back on 🤦‍♂️

Anyway it's really NOT a good idea to replace that housing/cooler with an aftermarket/off-brand/China one--be sure to use OEM. If an aftermarket or fake one fails, it can cause terminal engine damage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
^^ All good KGW!

man I love that service position. I am sure you can easily put it into that position now within 30 minutes!
So it was warm enough I got to check underneath and and clean it up proper.
Juuuuust in case, I changed out the oil filter and filter gasket to make sure so that I may have a chance of not doing this 2-3 hour job of getting into the tight space.

sorry about the blurry photos, the s20 ultra camera, is prob the most overated camera there is.
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But its leaking again on the block side so I am quite sure its the housing.
I ordered the housing without aluminum cooler as the leak is def on the engine block side.


Going to prepare all my tools, ahead of time thanks to the great DIY on FCP euro
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Amazing job by FCP euro on this detailed video. Thank you.
(you know its going to be a tedious task when the DIY is like an hour long)

tempted to swap out the secondary water pump and hose as it looks like its weeping.
But before i can even tackle this issue.
I dont know if its becasue of the weather, but my radio started displaying alien like lettering on the matrix orange thing and started coming on the car without the key.

I go out to the drive way, and I hear awesome music. Its like festival house music. Im going damn someone got good taste in music to find out my car was bumping music ALL NIGHT
I go turn the car on and off, and without the key it comes back on. None of the buttons seems to work except the eject button, so i had to go pull out fuse 14(didnt do anything) and 15 due to battery drain.

ARRRG

edit:

for anyone that has tackled this job,is it easier with the intake manifold taken off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Okay, took 2 hours to get most of the stuff off yesterday and took another 2 today putting it all back. Should have done this awhile back but I've got to juggle two extra cars so I put it on the back burner.

Once you get the intercooler pipe off( super easy), you're basically 8 bolts away from removing housing. Took long time to unclip the hose from top of the housing and clip off oil pressure senor on the right side.


The bottom bolts for cooler and housing itself were the easier ones and I used a short extension.

The top bolts i used a long extension which i place from bottom onto bolt. And went above to connect ratchet and wrench it out.

Most of the time I was laying on my back feet towards passenger side with my right arm up feeling for bolt /hole and placing the bit with extension onto it first then again attaching rachet from above (pictured below)
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I had to push away metal bracket pointed by middle finger in the below picture to remove housing.
Dont be afraid to move metal brackets out of the way.
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How i worked
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Old and new.
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Def not a hard job but be prepared to get dirty. Wear gloves and long sleeve because if it's been leaking it's going to get your arms dirty.

Good diy , take your time and you will finish in 4 hours easy. It's just 4 bolts for cooler and 4 bolts for housing. Do watch out on your bit on the bottom bolts as if it falls it could get lost on ridge of engine. The bottom ridge has little cubbies that's bits and screws can drop into and is super hard to reach and get out . Take your time! You can't see the bolts only feel them so take breaks if your arms gets all sore from contorting. edit: I laid the new housing next to me on the floor so that i can get a better mental picture of where the bolts are placed with my fingers.


Less than an hour to get everything out of the way for you to access bolts.

20 minutes for each bolt( or less) x8

20 minutes or less to remove and transplant oil pressure senor

20 minutes to put back each bolt and come back to retighten

Done ...less than an hour to put back intercooler hose and put back clips.

Great success!!! Just use drive way cleaner to clean all the gunk off the driveway!! Yay!!!
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you!

Backed out of the drive way this morning and no leaks!!!
My 1/4 drive ratchet was seized from leaving it out in the rain, so I bought this at a local autozone

$29.99

It has everything for you to do this job minus one longer extension shown below that made it easier for the top bolts.
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i dont know why I was dreading doing this, but it was a fun rewarding job.
 
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i dont know why I was dreading doing this, but it was a fun rewarding job.
Very good sir :) It seems like you did have the tethered cap though, so not sure why you said you didn't have it? Or was that something else you were talking about earlier?

Now just time to buy this kit:
To clear up those headlights :LOL:

But seriously this is a highly rated kit, not too hard to use. Also seen on ProjectFarm's video as one of the best performers tested.
 
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