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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I recently purchased an oil pan baffle, and am wondering if I need to use oil pan gaskets on top of the one's that came on the baffle. I bought the baffle not knowing it would have a rubber gasket on it.

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I would say you’re good to go! Gasket looks identical to
the ones I used to put on the tranny pan for my now sold 96 Passat. Rubber as that one looks.


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The baffle is the gasket.
You require nothing else.

Mav. :cool:

Sent from the future on my Galaxy S24.
This is correct. This baffle is the newer design for the 2.0L engine and requires no other gaskets.

Make sure to torque properly and in the correct sequence to avoid leaks.

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This is correct. This baffle is the newer design for the 2.0L engine and requires no other gaskets.

Make sure to torque properly and in the correct sequence to avoid leaks.

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Is there a proper sequence... I looked in Bentley and I couldn't find one.
I recently changed mine as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is correct. This baffle is the newer design for the 2.0L engine and requires no other gaskets.

Make sure to torque properly and in the correct sequence to avoid leaks.

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Thank you for the response.
 

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interesting. Looks like there a gasket on both sides so when you bolt down the oil pan it seals up fully. Does it require longer pan bolts or do stock bolts work? I just bought a stock reusable rubber gasket and was told I need longer bolts for that which is why I ask!
 

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Is there a proper sequence... I looked in Bentley and I couldn't find one.
I recently changed mine as well.
I don't think a documented torquinq sequence exists, sorry for the confusion.

What I know/meant as the the "proper" sequence refers to hand tightening all the bolts and then applying the torque specs to each one in an X pattern starting in the middle towards the outside. Similar to a head gasket replacement pattern. I have always been told to do it this way.

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interesting. Looks like there a gasket on both sides so when you bolt down the oil pan it seals up fully. Does it require longer pan bolts or do stock bolts work? I just bought a stock reusable rubber gasket and was told I need longer bolts for that which is why I ask!
Yes, the rubber gasket sits in both sides of the baffle. When I replaced the one on my 1.8L I used the original bolts.

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
interesting. Looks like there a gasket on both sides so when you bolt down the oil pan it seals up fully. Does it require longer pan bolts or do stock bolts work? I just bought a stock reusable rubber gasket and was told I need longer bolts for that which is why I ask!
I installed it yesterday also on my 1.8l. Its kind of a pain in the ass to get everything lined up but the stock bolts did work.
 

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I think it may warrant longer bolts. I certainly would look into that. Especially the bolts that screw into the aluminum flanges.

Common sense when torquing all the bolts. Screw them in by hand [especially the aluminum flanges] until you know they are screwed in right. Install all of them before you tighten all of them.
 

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When these first hit the aftermarket decades ago, they said you needed longer bolts and if I remember correctly, most companies included the bolts. It's a Genuine VW part but they were being sold as an upgrade for early Watercooled engines without the baffle. My 16V came with the plastic baffle so I didn't "need" this. If I had had an 8V, I would have gotten this.

I'll check the usual sources to see if they still sell the correct bolts for them.

EDIT: I found the baffle in a few places (TT & USRT) but didn't find the correct bolts. If I remember correctly they had shoulders to prevent the gasket being squished too much but that may just be the 8V valve cover baffle (which is also a good 8V upgrade).

I found the part numbers on 7zap:

See #37 for the original bolts (M6X14 ):

oil sump Scirocco (SCI) 1989 year Volkswagen USA 3000 (7zap.com)

Here is a 1994 sump with the baffle + gasket. See #31 for its bolts (M6X17):

cylinder block with pistons; oil sump Rabbit Conv./Golf Cabrio. (CONV) 1994 year Volkswagen USA 103020 (7zap.com)

I can't find them anywhere and Jim Ellis shows them as being NLA::

N90423402 - Volkswagen Bolt, hex. Hd. With shoulder, self-locking. BOLT HEX. HD SHOULDER BOLT | Jim Ellis Volkswagen, Atlanta GA (jimellisvwparts.com)

You could find some M6x17 bolts elsewhere. Make sure they are right hand drive because the first result that popped up for me was left hand drive.

West Cast Roccos shows them as being an optional extra for their baffle (but they may not know the bolts are NLA and I think you had to buy the baffle to get them):

Oil Pan Baffle / Windage Tray - 8v & 16v - West Coast RoccosWest Coast Roccos
 

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They have torque limiters in the gasket design and you can't squish them too much. You'll break something before that happens. You should know when the bolt has squished everything properly, the torque goes up fairly quick. If you do not understand that, use a torque wrench.

I believe the bolts are not that much longer but indeed if the head of the bolt is flanged, that is a good thing. I believe the baffle is thicker and therefore the Germans would insist on a longer bolt.

One thing I do is install a couple of studs in the block at opposite positions. That way, when it comes to aligning the pan and gasket, it's fairly easy to do. Flange nuts for those too.
 
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