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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The goal here is to have a silent, quick filling, and stealth (hidden) setup that does not take from the practicality of a sedan. I've been updating my build thread but here's the part regarding the air-ride build.

Build thread can be found here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...ogy-s-quot-Form-over-Function-quot-2004.5-GLI

Updates:

Feb 07, 2013
• Purchased a complete Airlift V2 air-ride slam kit! Now to start the planning and wiring mock up

Mar 08, 2013
• Purchased a third compressor!

Mar 18, 2013
• Big day today! Additional fittings, flow controls, power wires, relays, and TONS of sound deadening! A huge thank you to Bagriders, Poweraire, and Soundaway! Today I also went to Home Depot to have my MDF cut out for me. Pretty slow progress so far though. I have a massive accounting exam I am preparing for…at least all the planning is tentatively complete. Once pictures are up it will be easier to explain.

April 14, 2013
• So I began cutting up my sound deadening and building my compressor “stealth” box. MDF does not work well with screws, or nails…so I used glue. Will have pics soon but unfortunately computer at home isn’t working properly.

Box is looking fantastic though. Will head back to the parents place to tomorrow to complete the management build and then hook it up for a leak test!

Now what I need to do next is to try to get the base board as flush against the trunk floor as possible. Stupid floor is slightly angled and has recesses made for the spare tire. Makes it difficult to maximize the potential height that available…still working on it.

Also trying to source locally some auto carpet- anyone know where I can get some OEM looking stuff in Vancouver, B.C.?

April 18, 2013
• Everything is positioned. Going to be plumbing and wiring up the system today. I've decided to raise the power distribution block and the relays off the base in case water drips so I will be building the tiny shelf for that today. Other than that, a final sand and a coat of paint will finish my base. Will lay the sound deadening on the trunk and parcel shelf once I successfully test the system for leaks. Wish me luck!

April 23, 2013

So the air management is in! I've been super sick with the fever, don't think I've been sleeping too well since I've been cramming/studying for my accounting exams.

Anyhow, some plus and some negatives. Was hoping to be finished this weekend but was too sick to work on anything else.

(+) Management system completely wired up.
(+) The battery cover fits back on after power cable installed!
(+) Tentatively no leaks, however, I did find that the tank does slowly go down by about a psi or so every 2-3 hours. Very strange. Will do a soap/water test to confirm.

(-) Cannot find any nutserts, will need to order...

*couple notes: I used airlift's diagram for wiring the relays and it worked perfectly, basically it is the same as what mechengg drew but the 85 and 86 are reversed.
*Fuse 29 worked perfect as an ignition source

April 29, 2013

So to update.

Rears are in. Did not use nutserts.

I hate these MK4 front struts. I've worked on them countless of times. For some reason this time it just will not come out. I'm getting too old for this stuff. I have a good friend who works for VW and he'll be coming over shortly to help me out.

Looks like I may have a leak in my driver's rear too.

I ended up having to hardline everything coming out of the manifold. The region was too tight for air hoses.

May 6, 2013

Huge updates!

Air-suspension is COMPLETE and FUNCTIONAL.

There are still a lot of details I need to address but the set up has been solid and comfortable.
The triple compressors fill up from 120-175 in about 15s. It is about 28 degrees ambient temperature but the compressors didn't even warm up at all. FLAWLESS!

Can't complain, after I fix the airlift top strut mount and notch the frame, I will work on the car sparingly as I begin hardcore studies to add letters behind my name, but I am overall pretty happy.

More pics to come but here's an iPhone photo.

To Do:
-DONE- Run copper hardlines out of manifold (over exhaust, not sure if good idea) then union to air hose outside car
- Install Front and rear bags
- Complete management false floor
- Route controller into ash tray
- Wire up compressor shut-off switches under controller (x3)
- Final leak test


Pre-build thoughts…

So I’ve been wanting to go air-ride quite some time now. Ever since I first got into the VAG scene I found it to be the most practical way to have that “low” car look but also have the full functionality of my vehicle. Living in beautiful British Columbia, my wife and I enjoy the outdoors a lot, meaning we camp, snowboard, bike, hike, etc. I also play ice hockey so I need the functionality of a big trunk so I can carry my equipment.

What deterred me from the air-ride setups were quite simple:
• Price- they were usually very expensive and I was still in University at the time
• Too fancy- I don’t like how the bling and ice is so flashy!
• No space left in trunk- again, all the fancy bling takes up precious trunk space!
• LOUD- the compressors are mad annoying!

After some research I find it is feasible and there are some awesome set-ups out there that have what I want. My air build must have:
• Adjustability- I used to run coils and it was a pain trying to get over SPEED BUMPS. When I went hiking with the wife the terrain usually is very bumpy and my lowered car would take a beating. I want a fast lift and a modulated (slower) exhaust.
• Stealth- I do not want it to be seen at all and I want to retain my trunk in it’s full capacity
• Stealth2- In addition, I want it to be SILENT. I’ve done quite a bit of research on this and hopefully I’ve found a way to accomplish it and contribute to the forums. This means I do not want the compressor or exhaust to be heard.
• Stealth3- and again, to be stealth the compressors shouldn’t be on forever (30s+), so I need it to fill my air tank quickly after the initial lift pre-set.

I’ve posted on the air suspension forums already and have had great input. I found airsociety has been very helpful as well.

>>>To begin here are my plans:
• Airlift Slam XL
• Airlift rears
• Airlift V2 digital management
• 3 gallon tank
• (3) Three Viair 444c air compressors
• 4ga power wire
• Tons of ½” MDF
• Keep it below $2000

What I’ve calculated to get the most bang for the buck for the compressors. I know many will say go Air Zenith OB2’s, but they are just too steep for me! Not only are the compressors pricey, but I will need a new alternator as well. I opted for the Viair 444c’s instead. Here are my initial calculations:

With three compressors and a 2.5 gallon tank at 200 psi, my refresh time will be:
95sec (5gal spec) x 2.5/5= 47.5s
With an additional compressor: 47.5s x 2/3= 31.6s
 

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Discussion Starter #2
April 18, 2013
• Everything is positioned. Going to be plumbing and wiring up the system today. I've decided to raise the power distribution block and the relays off the base in case water drips so I will be building the tiny shelf for that today. Other than that, a final sand and a coat of paint will finish my base. Will lay the sound deadening on the trunk and parcel shelf once I successfully test the system for leaks. Wish me luck!







 

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Discussion Starter #3
BTW, update to wiring schematic props to MechEngg:

Sorry Conor but i completely disagree with having a stinger relay in the position that you have it in. In this case it is 100% better to have the relay AFTER the V2 power connection.

His triple 444's plus solenoids will definitely draw over 80A (especially if the car is off) so he will blow through relays everytime his compressors go on.

I would recommend just using 3 x 40A relays as such, this way if a single compressor siezes (and ends up drawing 90A) then both his other compressors will still work. By using the 4th relay it limits the amount of current needed by the V2 ECU to pull in coils (stinger is far larger load and will kill your V2 ECU) and it also gives the option to add individual kill switches for each compressor.

Also the Accuair and Airlift wiring is a bit different, your e-level wiring is spot on, however your V2 i think is a bit off.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Question for everyone:
1) Which fuse/ignition is recommended to tap? I'm getting mixed results through the search.

2) What is the recommended routing of the air hose and also the remote/ignition lines? I'll probably want to run the air hose outside the body while the electronics will stay inside. I would prefer not to lift the carpet and seats....but....i guess for a clean install that may be the only way. Unless there are suggestions out there?

Thanks.
 

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Wiring through the side rails, lift up the trim by the doors and tuck it under the little ledge that is there. No carpet pulling.

Take a look through my photobucket, should be pictures of how i ran lines. All outside.

Here are a few pics:










Front



 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Sweet thanks Mech for the advice. I'll do that! Great idea. No need to pull carpet and seats, will save me tons of time.

As for the ignition source, looks like fuse 29 is the one for the V2.

Just emailed Jeremy at airlift, hope to get a response. In terms of wiring I found this on stance works of someone having issues with calibration due to wiring.

Reference:
http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=826370&postcount=23

Hoping to get some clarification soon. I still want to run the 4 relays as mech suggested (already installed, yet to upload pics).
 

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Remember that mass loading material like Dynamat will not block sound transmission, only vibration. So when you do yor trunk and parcel shelf, use a composite vynil/open cell foam product...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Updates!

So the air management is in! I've been super sick with the fever, don't think I've been sleeping too well since I've been cramming/studying for my accounting exams.

Anyhow, some plus and some negatives. Was hoping to be finished this weekend but was too sick to work on anything else.

(+) Management system completely wired up.
(+) The battery cover fits back on after power cable installed!
(+) Tentatively no leaks, however, I did find that the tank does slowly go down by about a psi or so every 2-3 hours. Very strange. Will do a soap/water test to confirm.

(-) Cannot find any nutserts, will need to order...

*couple notes: I used airlift's diagram for wiring the relays and it worked perfectly, basically it is the same as what mechengg drew but the 85 and 86 are reversed.
*Fuse 29 worked perfect as an ignition source


To Do:
- Run copper hardlines out of manifold (over exhaust, not sure if good idea) then union to air hose outside car
- Install Front and rear bags
- Complete management false floor
- Route controller into ash tray
- Wire up compressor shut-off switches under controller (x3)
- Final leak test
 

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2,268 Posts
Updates!

So the air management is in! I've been super sick with the fever, don't think I've been sleeping too well since I've been cramming/studying for my accounting exams.

Anyhow, some plus and some negatives. Was hoping to be finished this weekend but was too sick to work on anything else.

(+) Management system completely wired up.
(+) The battery cover fits back on after power cable installed!
(+) Tentatively no leaks, however, I did find that the tank does slowly go down by about a psi or so every 2-3 hours. Very strange. Will do a soap/water test to confirm.

(-) Cannot find any nutserts, will need to order...

*couple notes: I used airlift's diagram for wiring the relays and it worked perfectly, basically it is the same as what mechengg drew but the 85 and 86 are reversed.
*Fuse 29 worked perfect as an ignition source


To Do:
- Run copper hardlines out of manifold (over exhaust, not sure if good idea) then union to air hose outside car
- Install Front and rear bags
- Complete management false floor
- Route controller into ash tray
- Wire up compressor shut-off switches under controller (x3)
- Final leak test
Sounds like it is going well for you. You should not need to run hardlines over the exhaust. If you are using the line that came with the V2, it is high-temp DOT line and will be just fine if you run it over the heat shield, that is what many people do.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sounds like it is going well for you. You should not need to run hardlines over the exhaust. If you are using the line that came with the V2, it is high-temp DOT line and will be just fine if you run it over the heat shield, that is what many people do.
Thanks for your input. I purchased new lines separate from kit from bagriders. They do say airlift on the lines though so I assume they are the ones you speak of?
 

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Thanks for your input. I purchased new lines separate from kit from bagriders. They do say airlift on the lines though so I assume they are the ones you speak of?
Yep, same stuff. Most DOT line is the same anyway, rated to an ambient temp well over 100 degrees and burst pressure above 400 PSI.
 

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Yep, same stuff. Most DOT line is the same anyway, rated to an ambient temp well over 100 degrees and burst pressure above 400 PSI.
The DOT FMVSS 106 line is rated to 95C, working pressure of at least 250psi (higher depending on size).

I would still be extremely cautious of running any plastic/nylon lines since the exhaust can get way hotter than 95C. Hell viair compressor heads & discharge usually gets around that hot and can melt these nylon lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The DOT FMVSS 106 line is rated to 95C, working pressure of at least 250psi (higher depending on size).

I would still be extremely cautious of running any plastic/nylon lines since the exhaust can get way hotter than 95C. Hell viair compressor heads & discharge usually gets around that hot and can melt these nylon lines.
I remember you mentioning that before thus the reason for switching to copper lines.

Not too much work though, for the front driver side I'll just run a section of copper that is near the exhaust and the rest I'll just do air hose. Thanks for your input guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
So to update.

Rears are in. I did NOT use the nutserts. Reason is becuase, well, simply put, the hole in the perch is too large.

I hate these MK4 front struts. I've worked on them countless of times. For some reason this time it just will not come out. I'm getting too old for this stuff. I have a good friend who works for VW and he'll be coming over shortly to help me out.

Looks like I may have a leak in my driver's rear too.

I ended up having to hardline everything coming out of the manifold. The region was too tight for air hoses.

Pics to come.
 
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