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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, I went to go check out my friends car and here's what had happened:

Coolant bottle was almost empty, so I put a little water in it to max level
Warmed car to normal operating temperature, 190
Upper hose gets warm
Lower hose was cold the entire time
Went in car and turned on the heat, but it was ice cold
Went for a test drive and temp went to 220 and back down to 190, then started to work it's way up again
Parked the car and the temp went back to 190
Sitting still for a while, temp went to roughly 200 and this time there was heat, but it wasn't as strong as it should be
Temp went to like 220-230 and fans kicked on finally
Went down to 200, but quickly started to work it's way up to 240 and finally decided to turn the car off
During this whole process, the fan only kicked on at 230 and the lower rad hose was still cold
This entire process I stretched over the span of 30 minutes or so

I would suspect a T-stat being the main problem here. Anyone else have the same situation before?
 

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I've had the exact situation before & replaced my T-stat with no luck. In my case it was the waterpump & considering how stock 1.8Ts have the plastic impeller on the waterpump thats probably the cause of this. How many miles on the car??? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've had the exact situation before & replaced my T-stat with no luck. In my case it was the waterpump & considering how stock 1.8Ts have the plastic impeller on the waterpump thats probably the cause of this. How many miles on the car??? :confused:
Roughly 60K
 

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A few possibilities for overheating:

1) Faulty thermostat (stuck closed)
2) Broken WP
3) Air was introduced into the system because of the low fluid level
4) Old coolant
5) blockage in the line

I would start with the easiest solution and move on from there. It sounds like you just filled up the system and then ran it - am I right?. If so then try the following:

With the engine running "burp" the system by messaging the upper coolant hose with the reservoir cap off. As well, it would also help to rev the engine (2000-2500 rpm) a few times while the other person pinches and releases the upper hose. Do this until you no longer feel/see anymore bubbles. Next go for a spirited drive around the block. Allow the engine to cool down and then re-check the coolant level

If this doesn't work try the next one..
 

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depending on your budget and time, you can replace the thermostat first. it seems like it's the thermostat which is stuck closed.

Alright, I went to go check out my friends car and here's what had happened:

Coolant bottle was almost empty, so I put a little water in it to max level
Warmed car to normal operating temperature, 190
Upper hose gets warm
Lower hose was cold the entire time
Went in car and turned on the heat, but it was ice cold
Went for a test drive and temp went to 220 and back down to 190, then started to work it's way up again
Parked the car and the temp went back to 190
Sitting still for a while, temp went to roughly 200 and this time there was heat, but it wasn't as strong as it should be
Temp went to like 220-230 and fans kicked on finally
Went down to 200, but quickly started to work it's way up to 240 and finally decided to turn the car off
During this whole process, the fan only kicked on at 230 and the lower rad hose was still cold
This entire process I stretched over the span of 30 minutes or so

I would suspect a T-stat being the main problem here. Anyone else have the same situation before?
 

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The lower hose STAYS cold = T-stat
BUT
If the waterpump is not flowing back to the reservoir (which you can visually see) then T-stat isn't really introduced to the correct coolant level that the coolant sensor (which is all the way on the otherside of the system by the upper hose) is introduced too causing your readings to go sky high ;)
 

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pull your T-stat out then stick your fingers in a feel the impeller of the water pump if you can spin it or feel broken off pieces its obviously broken. You can also get a small mirror in the T-stat hole and take a look around as well.
 

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pull your T-stat out then stick your fingers in a feel the impeller of the water pump if you can spin it or feel broken off pieces its obviously broken. You can also get a small mirror in the T-stat hole and take a look around as well.
the man speaks da truth!
 

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to check your water pump pull off the hose that go to the top of the bottle. remove the cap and hold the hose so it will flow into the bottle. have a friend start the car and hold it at about 2500rpm. you should have coolant flowing out of the hose. and should be a good amount of flow not shooting out but a steady flow. if you have flow your water pump is fine. if you dont theres your problem. if you do the T-stat make sure you do the coolant temp sensor as well. but did you find where the coolant was going?

like the coolant flange on the side of the head? there is always the bad one of a blown head gasket. my jetta was overheating when i got it but only when going up hill replaced the water pump and T-stat . no change so i flushed the system to make sure there wasnt anything plugged in the radiator. but still over heated. so i checked for hydro carbons in the coolant bottle. sure enough there were 255 ppm of HC's in the bottle so i had a blown head gasket. just somethings to check.
 
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