Paint and Body Work FAQ...
Seems like people are misconstruing information on here constantly... Just wanted to clear a few things up. People experienced in body work can chime in, and please do! Post up your questions about body work in here and either me or some people who are experienced in this can help you
![]()
Body Work
Common Supplies/Equipment Needed:
36 grit sandpaper
80 grit sandpaper
180 grit sandpaper (wet/dry)
320 grit sandpaper (wet/dry)
800 grit sandpaper (wet/dry)
Die Grinder
Welder (TIG)
Body Filler (for metal): Evercoat Rage or Z-Grip
Body Filler (for plastics): Evercoat Polyflex
Plastic Adhesive/Repair: Fusor 143 or 3M Flex or Rigid Plastic Repair
Sanding block
Wet sanding block (Durablock is popular)
And remember guys: Body work is not cheap, if you complain about how expensive it can get, and you cheap out with incorrect supplies/prep you will have a ishty end result. You gotta pay to play
Q: How do you shave fenders/hoods/hatches/trunks (virtually the same process, only little details are different ie: sizes, shapes, etc) and what products do you need to use?
A: Well, I'm not going to tell you every single step how to do it but the jist is:
1. Die grind area that you will be working on (~6" in every direction around the area needs to be grinded down)
2. Weld in metal filler panel
3. Die grind the welds smooth
4. Apply first coat of filler
5. Use 80 grit for your first 1-3 layers of filler. Then after you keep filling move up to 180 grit. 180 should be used on the last few layers (total # of layers will be dependant on how well you block your first few. most times is about 5-8 layers total) wet or dry sanding is used at your discretion with 180.
6. Last layer of filler should be sanded with 320 wet
7. Primer is then applied to the 320'd area (Do NOT use anything other than 320 to apply primer)
8. Wet sand the primer with 800 grit and a wetsand block.
9. Depending on the actual paint, either 600 or 800 is ideal when you wet sand the primer. I would personally use 800, regardless of type of paint. Do NOT go over 800, or else paint will not adhere to the panel
10. Now your panel is ready for paint. If you just need instructions on how to prep for paint, start from step 6 instead of 1. and start wetsanding with 320 wet. If your panel was prepainted and cleared, you need to sand down to original panel with 320, then reprimer.
Q: How do you shave/fill plastic?
A: Plastics are MUCH harder to shave/fill and will require a bit more patience. Basically the same jist as metal, but instead you sand down with 36 grit (not a die grinder, most people will start melting plastic and owning their panels with die grinders). Then you pretty much need to find some spare plastic to fill the space you're trying to shave/fill and adhere it with the Fusor Please be careful with this stuff, it has a work time of under 2 minutes. SPECIFIC instructions will NOT be provided in this post. Maybe if i feel like it later I will or if someone else who knows what their doing can post up. After you adhere the plastic, do 80 grit and apply the polyflex (which is the plastic filler). Same steps as the metal work, just different supplies.
Also, do NOT use body filler to literally fill holes. It is to smooth things out, not literally fill sidemarker holes, trunk emblem holes, etc
Body Fillers:
PLEASE DO NOT USE BONDO, IT IS HONESTLY THE WORST BODY
FILLER YOU CAN USE, FOR CRYIN OUT LOUD YOU CAN BUY IT AT AUTOZONE!
If you do not have a local body supply warehouse, use: https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/
Use proffesional body filler from Evercoat. There are alot of different levels available from Evercoat. Popular ones that most body shops use is the Rage line, and Z-Grip. I personally use Z-Grip which was about $50 a gallon.
Evercoat product site:
http://www.evercoat.com/products.aspx
Evercoat Z-Grip:
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=11
Fusor:
http://www.lord.com/Home/Produ....aspx
Hope this clears up and misconceptions....
![]()
![]()
![]()
Modified by lolagain at 10:40 PM 11-4-2007
Seems like people are misconstruing information on here constantly... Just wanted to clear a few things up. People experienced in body work can chime in, and please do! Post up your questions about body work in here and either me or some people who are experienced in this can help you
Body Work
Common Supplies/Equipment Needed:
36 grit sandpaper
80 grit sandpaper
180 grit sandpaper (wet/dry)
320 grit sandpaper (wet/dry)
800 grit sandpaper (wet/dry)
Die Grinder
Welder (TIG)
Body Filler (for metal): Evercoat Rage or Z-Grip
Body Filler (for plastics): Evercoat Polyflex
Plastic Adhesive/Repair: Fusor 143 or 3M Flex or Rigid Plastic Repair
Sanding block
Wet sanding block (Durablock is popular)
And remember guys: Body work is not cheap, if you complain about how expensive it can get, and you cheap out with incorrect supplies/prep you will have a ishty end result. You gotta pay to play
Q: How do you shave fenders/hoods/hatches/trunks (virtually the same process, only little details are different ie: sizes, shapes, etc) and what products do you need to use?
A: Well, I'm not going to tell you every single step how to do it but the jist is:
1. Die grind area that you will be working on (~6" in every direction around the area needs to be grinded down)
2. Weld in metal filler panel
3. Die grind the welds smooth
4. Apply first coat of filler
5. Use 80 grit for your first 1-3 layers of filler. Then after you keep filling move up to 180 grit. 180 should be used on the last few layers (total # of layers will be dependant on how well you block your first few. most times is about 5-8 layers total) wet or dry sanding is used at your discretion with 180.
6. Last layer of filler should be sanded with 320 wet
7. Primer is then applied to the 320'd area (Do NOT use anything other than 320 to apply primer)
8. Wet sand the primer with 800 grit and a wetsand block.
9. Depending on the actual paint, either 600 or 800 is ideal when you wet sand the primer. I would personally use 800, regardless of type of paint. Do NOT go over 800, or else paint will not adhere to the panel
10. Now your panel is ready for paint. If you just need instructions on how to prep for paint, start from step 6 instead of 1. and start wetsanding with 320 wet. If your panel was prepainted and cleared, you need to sand down to original panel with 320, then reprimer.
Q: How do you shave/fill plastic?
A: Plastics are MUCH harder to shave/fill and will require a bit more patience. Basically the same jist as metal, but instead you sand down with 36 grit (not a die grinder, most people will start melting plastic and owning their panels with die grinders). Then you pretty much need to find some spare plastic to fill the space you're trying to shave/fill and adhere it with the Fusor Please be careful with this stuff, it has a work time of under 2 minutes. SPECIFIC instructions will NOT be provided in this post. Maybe if i feel like it later I will or if someone else who knows what their doing can post up. After you adhere the plastic, do 80 grit and apply the polyflex (which is the plastic filler). Same steps as the metal work, just different supplies.
Also, do NOT use body filler to literally fill holes. It is to smooth things out, not literally fill sidemarker holes, trunk emblem holes, etc
Body Fillers:
PLEASE DO NOT USE BONDO, IT IS HONESTLY THE WORST BODY
FILLER YOU CAN USE, FOR CRYIN OUT LOUD YOU CAN BUY IT AT AUTOZONE!
If you do not have a local body supply warehouse, use: https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/
Use proffesional body filler from Evercoat. There are alot of different levels available from Evercoat. Popular ones that most body shops use is the Rage line, and Z-Grip. I personally use Z-Grip which was about $50 a gallon.
Evercoat product site:
http://www.evercoat.com/products.aspx
Evercoat Z-Grip:
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=11
Fusor:
http://www.lord.com/Home/Produ....aspx
Hope this clears up and misconceptions....
Modified by lolagain at 10:40 PM 11-4-2007
