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Isn't wetsanding body filler asking for trouble? Filler absorbs moisture (well not like a towel) and that can get ugly in some cases.
I usually sand filler to 180 dry then prime. Sand primer with 400 dry then 800 wet.
Also, when sanding the primer, it's important to smooth the edge of the primered area so that you can't feel any step from the primer to the base. Lay your hand flat on the panel and litterally stroke the panel (fast, if you do it slowly you won't feel anything). If you feel a step, continue sanding.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Re: (Black Smokin' Diesel)

Quote, originally posted by Black Smokin’ Diesel »
Isn't wetsanding body filler asking for trouble? Filler absorbs moisture (well not like a towel) and that can get ugly in some cases.

i have never EVER heard that wesanding filler is bad. whered you hear that
 

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Re: (lolagain)

Quote, originally posted by lolagain »

i have never EVER heard that wesanding filler is bad. whered you hear that

I'm studying in autobody. Teachers told me body filler should never get wet before priming. If the filler isn't 100% dry when priming it can show up later after the car has been painted. Maybe some products can be wetsanded, I don't know about all of them.
 

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Re: (AKDiVo)

ok i have a question: if im painting my b-pillar black, how do i combine the new paint with the factory paint on the edge??
for reference, the circled part:
 

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Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (lolagain)

Quote, originally posted by lolagain »
Seems like people are misconstruing information on here constantly... Just wanted to clear a few things up.

so, why did you create another thread with misconstrued information
 

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Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (DuBLiFeh2o)

Quote, originally posted by DuBLiFeh2o »

so, why did you create another thread with misconstrued information

 

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Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (ddgolf4)

i want to know about fusor and filling in the license plate holes.. makes me madd that i just started my search and im ending up with no DIY..haha
 

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Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (lolagain)

There is a lot of bad info on the vortex, but a lot of good too. lolagain is very correct with most and this is a good thread for DIY.I gotta say filler WILL absorb moisture no question about it. You wont really know about it until much later when you see the effects in the paint.
Bondo is not a very good product at all and I would only use it on an unimportant project like a dump truck or tractor...maybe. I love Evercoat products, they are easy to use and sand very well.
Most of this thread is onpoint though. You guys have some big jumps between sanding grits and that all depends on the finish you want. I typically use:
filler-36 or 40grit (jump to 80 if spread smooth)
80 grit
150 grit
primer-150 grit (jump to 320 if layed smooth)
320 grit
400 grit ( why, right? It makes sense to jump to 600 here, but getting the 320 scratches out with 600 is a b**** and most people would stop sanding before actually getting any defects out. I say make it easy on yourself use the 400 with a quick sanding)
600 grit
800 grit (stopping at 600 versus 800 is fairly based on painting skills and mix and type of basecoat about to be sprayed on top of the primer)
I very rarely finish filler in 320 because high fill primer is great with 150 but on occasion i do use it.
Any defects in smoothness should really be worked out when done with sanding primer. Basecoat and clear are not designed to do any filling and/or smoothing of any kind. It sounds like some folks are trying to get rid of hardlines with clearcoat, all I have ever seen this do is create a slightly rounded hardline.
I dont feel like spending all kinds of time typing all kinds of info out but I am willing to help when someone needs it. I am far from knowing everything about body/paint work but I am fairly knowledgable in the subject.
Here is some of the stuff that was built where I learned and am still learning on my way to my Custom Cars and Concepts Degree. Its too bad they dont have finished pics of the Ford 500 GT-R up, it was finished about 2 years ago, siiick car. There is a Chevelle that was built for GM and was on the show "Rides". They are very domestic oriented
but I apply it to my dub.
http://www.wccnet.edu/departme...s.php
the Chevelle: http://www.motortrend.com/auto....html
the Magnum:
http://autos.msn.com/as/minish...A2004
07 SEMA entry (make-a-wish truck): http://www.pickuptruck.com/htm....html
I have other stuff that was built more recently that I took pics of that I need to upload. They have had SEMA entrys for at least 4 years now and compete alongside Foose and Boyd here at Autorama in Detroit. Great School, we build some cool stuff.
Glad to help anyone, have fun cutting and filling http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (cloud9vw20)

. Use 80 grit for your first 1-3 layers of filler. Then after you keep filling move up to 180 grit. 180 should be used on the last few layers (total # of layers will be dependant on how well you block your first few. most times is about 5-8 layers total) wet or dry sanding is used at your discretion with 180.

5-8 layers if you are filling the grand canyon.
unless you warp the hell out of a panel any shave work can be finished in 3 filler coats. usually one + glaze. 36-80-120 then i buzz with 320 -prime.
 

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Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (16v po boy)

is it possible to shave the vw emblem in the back with just filler?? Ive heard it cracks, then i've also heard that its fine, what is the final verdict on this. I cannot afford to have a body shop do it, so i try and do as much as i can myself. I can do all the prep work/painting myself, im just not rlly good at welding nor do i actually have welding equipment. ALL help is welcome http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

-Amr
 

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Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (vee_dubbin2191)

I wouldnt put all filler in the emblem recess. Its about 1/4 inch deep which is well over all (i think) manufacturers recommended depth. If you dont feel like welding I would see if you cant get to it from inside after detrimming the hatch. If you can swing a hammer in there I would see if you can hammer it out a little at least to where the maximum depth of filler is going to be no more than 1/8". MAKE SURE you use some kinda dolly (hard block with flat surface) when hammering on the other side so you dont create a crown (basically a dent out in the other direction). Also dont over hammer, take youre time, youll be happier in the end, good luck!
 

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Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (supavr6lover)

Quote, originally posted by supavr6lover »
i want to know about fusor and filling in the license plate holes.. makes me madd that i just started my search and im ending up with no DIY..haha

Filling plate holes and shaving sidemarkers is easy.
Sand area around the holes down to the plastic. Clean with rubbing alcohol, or soap/water. Let air dry. Apply Fusor 602EZ Surface Modifier. Wait 15-20min to air dry. Cut out "coupons" in the general shape of the hole (rather too big than too small so you can trim smaller). Scuff plastic filler pieces and spray them with 602. Tack or hold in place while applying Fusor 143/153. ~90 seconds work time with 143. Sand down with 80 grit. Reapply Fusor if needed. Apply to reverse side. Skim over with Evercoat Polyflex. Sand to 320 featheredge. Prime. Paint.
When I shaved my sidemarkers, I left the stock orange pieces in place. I sanded and prepped them well, then Fusored them in place front and back. Sand, fill over, sand, prime, paint.
PM me with any questions. I've done it a couple times.






Modified by Derek Zoolander at 1:43 PM 12-31-2007
 

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i just got a hood notch filler piece...do you think i can use the fusor method to attach the notch filler or will i have to weld it in?
 

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Re: (Derek Zoolander)

I was wondering if you could use the plastic bumper notch fill pieces that come with most badgeless grilles. Basically put some fusor on the back side of it and "glue" it in place then apply fusor to the borders of it to attach it to the bumper. Would that work?
As far as the bumper I was going to apply some mesh behind the side marker opening then put a "coupon" in the opening and fusor it together. seems like the best way.(R32 bumper by the way).
 
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