Paint and Body Work FAQ [MK4 Based]...
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Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (cloud9vw20)
yes you never want to wet sand body filler because it does soak up moisture and slightly expand also it is best not to wet sand your primer unless its etching primer and i never use anything but that
i know all this from years of experience and alot of hard lessons
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lol
yes you never want to wet sand body filler because it does soak up moisture and slightly expand also it is best not to wet sand your primer unless its etching primer and i never use anything but that
i know all this from years of experience and alot of hard lessons
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Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (cloud9vw20)
I agree , too much bondo will sink over time and you will see the indend of the emblem, just weld something in, the best way to do it
I agree , too much bondo will sink over time and you will see the indend of the emblem, just weld something in, the best way to do it
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2,363 Posts
good information.
Urgent Body Work
Hey, I need some help trying to figure out how to fix a scratch on my jetta. I scratched it againest a wall and it took off some of the paint. Here is a photo of the scratch.
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I was wondering if anyone could tell me some solutions to get it back to the shiny silver arrow paint it was before, thanks for the help!
Hey, I need some help trying to figure out how to fix a scratch on my jetta. I scratched it againest a wall and it took off some of the paint. Here is a photo of the scratch.
I was wondering if anyone could tell me some solutions to get it back to the shiny silver arrow paint it was before, thanks for the help!
Re: Urgent Body Work (victor_89)
The guy who started this topic said that bondo is ****...It's not...I used bondo, dupli-color primer, dupli-color clear coat, and the same exact paint that was the original color. I did all this at home...It's actually quiet inexpensive. The bondo is around $13 U.S.D. The primer and clear coat are around $20-30 combined. You can find the Bondo and Dupli-Color Primer and Clear Coat at PepBoys. The custom paint you can find at:
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
Your car should have a code in the car somewhere, that has the paint code. My Golf MK4 had it in the trunk under all that carpet when you pull it up to get to the spare. It's a quiet easy job, and doesn't cost a **** load if you do it right. Me and my dad did it...First time in our lives, and we made it look like nothing at all happened. What did happen was that the passenger fender was dented in, and the bumper had huge cracks in it. We ended up with a flawless fender and bumper.
When you buy the Bondo, it will have instructions for you. But don't worry about putting exactly like 1 1/2 in. of Bondo layers. All you'll need to do is put some Bondo onto the cardboard, and add a little bit of hardener. If you put too much, it will harden before you finish the first layer. Here are the basic steps:
1.Sand down the area to it's base. This means that there will be no paint, but just the plastic exposed after you sand.
2. Mix some Bondo and a small amount of hardener onto something like a piece of cardboard. The paste should turn into something I think is black. You can tell it is mixed when it changes colors completely.
3. You will have the Bondo, hardener, a net, and a clear plastic strip rolled up. I did not use the net at all for my bumper and fender. After you put on the thing Bondo layer, you need to quickly cut some of that plastic and place it on top of the thing Bondo layer.
4. Put another layer quickly on top of the plastic. You have to do this a bit quickly so the Bondo doesn't dry, but be careful and precise with your work.
5. Let the Bondo dry. I would say give it about 30-45 minutes or so.
6. Sand the rough bondo down so it's smooth. You will want to add a few more layers of Bondo and hardener on top of that, without the foil, unless the foil peels off or something. Sand down again until the surface is relatively smooth.
7. Use the Dupli-Color primer. You should get one with a silver cap that is relatively close to the silver on your Jetta.
8. Spray a coat or two of the primer on there and let it dry.
9. Order yourself the custom paint online. One 12 oz. Aerosol spray is $20. You may have to wait a while, so this will give the primer a chance to dry.
10. Once your paint arrives, shake the can for about 2 minutes. You then spray on a coat, and let it dry for around 20-30 minutes. You then should spray on a few additional coats, allowing the paint to dry a bit in between coats.
11. Wet-sand the area with a 600. Try to hand sand this if you could, it gets you the best results.
12. After you sand paper the area and everything, you should be able to see where the work was done, because there should be an area that is flat silver/white.
13. Spray one more coat of the paint on.
14. Spray 1-4 coats of clear coat, allowing 5-15 minutes between coats.
15. Let it dry.
16. Install the part
I hope this is helpful for you. If I have anything wrong here, someone please point that out for victor_89. I tried to explain everything to you best as I could, because I don't remember the exact details of like the sand paper. We used a different sand paper for sanding down the Bondo, and then we used 600 for the wet-sand. Once again, I hope this is of some use for you.
~Orzel911
The guy who started this topic said that bondo is ****...It's not...I used bondo, dupli-color primer, dupli-color clear coat, and the same exact paint that was the original color. I did all this at home...It's actually quiet inexpensive. The bondo is around $13 U.S.D. The primer and clear coat are around $20-30 combined. You can find the Bondo and Dupli-Color Primer and Clear Coat at PepBoys. The custom paint you can find at:
http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
Your car should have a code in the car somewhere, that has the paint code. My Golf MK4 had it in the trunk under all that carpet when you pull it up to get to the spare. It's a quiet easy job, and doesn't cost a **** load if you do it right. Me and my dad did it...First time in our lives, and we made it look like nothing at all happened. What did happen was that the passenger fender was dented in, and the bumper had huge cracks in it. We ended up with a flawless fender and bumper.
When you buy the Bondo, it will have instructions for you. But don't worry about putting exactly like 1 1/2 in. of Bondo layers. All you'll need to do is put some Bondo onto the cardboard, and add a little bit of hardener. If you put too much, it will harden before you finish the first layer. Here are the basic steps:
1.Sand down the area to it's base. This means that there will be no paint, but just the plastic exposed after you sand.
2. Mix some Bondo and a small amount of hardener onto something like a piece of cardboard. The paste should turn into something I think is black. You can tell it is mixed when it changes colors completely.
3. You will have the Bondo, hardener, a net, and a clear plastic strip rolled up. I did not use the net at all for my bumper and fender. After you put on the thing Bondo layer, you need to quickly cut some of that plastic and place it on top of the thing Bondo layer.
4. Put another layer quickly on top of the plastic. You have to do this a bit quickly so the Bondo doesn't dry, but be careful and precise with your work.
5. Let the Bondo dry. I would say give it about 30-45 minutes or so.
6. Sand the rough bondo down so it's smooth. You will want to add a few more layers of Bondo and hardener on top of that, without the foil, unless the foil peels off or something. Sand down again until the surface is relatively smooth.
7. Use the Dupli-Color primer. You should get one with a silver cap that is relatively close to the silver on your Jetta.
8. Spray a coat or two of the primer on there and let it dry.
9. Order yourself the custom paint online. One 12 oz. Aerosol spray is $20. You may have to wait a while, so this will give the primer a chance to dry.
10. Once your paint arrives, shake the can for about 2 minutes. You then spray on a coat, and let it dry for around 20-30 minutes. You then should spray on a few additional coats, allowing the paint to dry a bit in between coats.
11. Wet-sand the area with a 600. Try to hand sand this if you could, it gets you the best results.
12. After you sand paper the area and everything, you should be able to see where the work was done, because there should be an area that is flat silver/white.
13. Spray one more coat of the paint on.
14. Spray 1-4 coats of clear coat, allowing 5-15 minutes between coats.
15. Let it dry.
16. Install the part
I hope this is helpful for you. If I have anything wrong here, someone please point that out for victor_89. I tried to explain everything to you best as I could, because I don't remember the exact details of like the sand paper. We used a different sand paper for sanding down the Bondo, and then we used 600 for the wet-sand. Once again, I hope this is of some use for you.
~Orzel911
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160 Posts
Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (tnewsomj)
So you are saying that you need to not only not wet sand a nice 2 part (Primer + Activator) Primer and instead use an acid etching primer which causes fillers to lift over time and has absolutley no build properties? then wet sand said etching primer?
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Etching primer is used for bare substrates ( e-coat at most ) for proper adhesion and corrosion protection, now if you meant epoxy primer than you are right to an extent in that, you can apply that over pre existing paint and fillers with no issues at all, however most do not have a great deal of build properties. Lacquer primers should not be wet sanded as they absorb water almost like the fillers, but a good 2k primer can be wetsanded just fine http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
So you spread more misinformation so everyone else get to go through the same bull**** you did
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Sorry to bring this back from the dead but damn there is some bad info on here, read the back of the cans that you are purchasing and ask someone from a real paint store or talk to guys in dealerships that use this stuff day in and day out for factory warranty paint work, because some of these backyardigians are going to get you into trouble.......
and just so tnewsomj doesn't think im hating on him, he is extremely correct on the filler absorbing water.....NEVER wetsand fillers
Modified by ylwmeansgo at 2:46 PM 8-28-2009
| Quote, originally posted by tnewsomj » |
| yes you never want to wet sand body filler because it does soak up moisture and slightly expand also it is best not to wet sand your primer unless its etching primer and i never use anything but thati know all this from years of experience and alot of hard lessons
|
So you are saying that you need to not only not wet sand a nice 2 part (Primer + Activator) Primer and instead use an acid etching primer which causes fillers to lift over time and has absolutley no build properties? then wet sand said etching primer?
| Quote, originally posted by tnewsomj » |
| i know all this from years of experience and alot of hard lessons
|
So you spread more misinformation so everyone else get to go through the same bull**** you did
Sorry to bring this back from the dead but damn there is some bad info on here, read the back of the cans that you are purchasing and ask someone from a real paint store or talk to guys in dealerships that use this stuff day in and day out for factory warranty paint work, because some of these backyardigians are going to get you into trouble.......
and just so tnewsomj doesn't think im hating on him, he is extremely correct on the filler absorbing water.....NEVER wetsand fillers
Modified by ylwmeansgo at 2:46 PM 8-28-2009
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1,253 Posts
Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (ylwmeansgo)
just the thread ive been looking for!
just the thread ive been looking for!
Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (CorvetteKillerVr6)
wow, all this wetsanding or not wetsanding filer talk.
i do NOT wetsand metal fillers, i have wetsanded polyflex, quite often. I have a shaved bumper thats been painted 4 years that is still perfect, so i know polyflex isnt absorbing moisture. i figured a plastic filler will not absorb, i was correct.
I tend to always use ppg high build primer and wetsand that, it fills in any small sanding marks and lays "thicker" so its less likely to wetsand though for beginners. i usually take that to 800 WS before paint.
wow, all this wetsanding or not wetsanding filer talk.
i do NOT wetsand metal fillers, i have wetsanded polyflex, quite often. I have a shaved bumper thats been painted 4 years that is still perfect, so i know polyflex isnt absorbing moisture. i figured a plastic filler will not absorb, i was correct.
I tend to always use ppg high build primer and wetsand that, it fills in any small sanding marks and lays "thicker" so its less likely to wetsand though for beginners. i usually take that to 800 WS before paint.
Re: Paint and Body Work FAQ... (RaraK69)
I just filled in my notch (GTI Bumper) and signals on my NA rubstrip this weekend and thought I would share.
For products I used
80/200/400/600 sandpaper
Spray 620EZ which is the pre-fusoring spray to help bond
fusor 143 50 ml filled in all my areas then some
Fusor Gun-Which I have available for sale if anyone needs. They stopped selling the conversion gun so you have to buy this one for 50 ml it costs me $50 pm me if you need it
I roughed everything up with 80 (clean prior to sanding really good) then I bought sections of a oem bumper/rub strip for filling (I also have a section left that fits the notch on a gti bumper/also I have extra rub strip left) Made the sections realtively tight but not to tight to play with it to get the position you need. You want it to the point where you can not touch it and it stays in the position you want. (the fusor will act as a great body filler too so no need to make the tokens perfect) Once everything is ready to go spray all areas with the fusor 620 ez spray to prep it
Next I held the section in place while my dad started fusoring. (Note: each fusor pack comes with 2 stirring sticks, you have to keep the fusor coming with these, if you stop it will dry within the stirring stick so its best to fusor the whole piece all at one). So since I held it into place and my dad fusor'd everything he could get at with my fingers there. (Also wear gloves and breathing masks) also a running fan is good, but this really should be done outside in well ventilated area). AFter that I held in place until it was decently dry (90 sec) after that I went on to the rub stips and while I was holding the rub strip sections together while that dried my dad went back and fusor'd the areas where my fingers where on the notch section. So you will have to do a lil back n forth to cover all the areas where you were holdin. After it dried we knocked down the fusor with a dremel until it was ready to sand by hand. AFter its fusor'd in and sanded down good you can take your poly glaze and putty it in then sand smooth..prime/paint.
edit the only reason wet sand is to save sand paper. Dry sanding glogs the paper up faster than wet sanding...both are perfectly fine to do either way. Generally a finishing sanding is done wet but its personal preference. For preping I use dry sanding. I will only do wet for finishing sanding
edit: I bought 2 50 ml containers so I had 4 stirring sticks. We botched the first stick right away since I had no experience with fusor. So to do the notch and the 2 blinkers on the rub you will at least need 3 sticks. If you had 3 guyz you could probably get away with using 1 max 2 sticks you just need people to hold the sections together while 1 person fuses and since that person holding needs to hold it in place a few minutes the fusor will dry in the stirring stick and you will need another so I suggest having at least 4 stirring sticks with 2 guyz.
pm me if you have any questions or want supplies for this job. I found it very easy once I knew how to use the fusor. You just have to take a few hours making the fill sections which don't have to be perfect but should fill the whole area generally well. Fusor will fill in areas that need filling. It dries like extremely hard plastic/tar
I forgot to add fusor both sides top/bottom http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Modified by ruetzal at 12:37 PM 2-22-2010
I just filled in my notch (GTI Bumper) and signals on my NA rubstrip this weekend and thought I would share.
For products I used
80/200/400/600 sandpaper
Spray 620EZ which is the pre-fusoring spray to help bond
fusor 143 50 ml filled in all my areas then some
Fusor Gun-Which I have available for sale if anyone needs. They stopped selling the conversion gun so you have to buy this one for 50 ml it costs me $50 pm me if you need it
I roughed everything up with 80 (clean prior to sanding really good) then I bought sections of a oem bumper/rub strip for filling (I also have a section left that fits the notch on a gti bumper/also I have extra rub strip left) Made the sections realtively tight but not to tight to play with it to get the position you need. You want it to the point where you can not touch it and it stays in the position you want. (the fusor will act as a great body filler too so no need to make the tokens perfect) Once everything is ready to go spray all areas with the fusor 620 ez spray to prep it
Next I held the section in place while my dad started fusoring. (Note: each fusor pack comes with 2 stirring sticks, you have to keep the fusor coming with these, if you stop it will dry within the stirring stick so its best to fusor the whole piece all at one). So since I held it into place and my dad fusor'd everything he could get at with my fingers there. (Also wear gloves and breathing masks) also a running fan is good, but this really should be done outside in well ventilated area). AFter that I held in place until it was decently dry (90 sec) after that I went on to the rub stips and while I was holding the rub strip sections together while that dried my dad went back and fusor'd the areas where my fingers where on the notch section. So you will have to do a lil back n forth to cover all the areas where you were holdin. After it dried we knocked down the fusor with a dremel until it was ready to sand by hand. AFter its fusor'd in and sanded down good you can take your poly glaze and putty it in then sand smooth..prime/paint.
edit the only reason wet sand is to save sand paper. Dry sanding glogs the paper up faster than wet sanding...both are perfectly fine to do either way. Generally a finishing sanding is done wet but its personal preference. For preping I use dry sanding. I will only do wet for finishing sanding
edit: I bought 2 50 ml containers so I had 4 stirring sticks. We botched the first stick right away since I had no experience with fusor. So to do the notch and the 2 blinkers on the rub you will at least need 3 sticks. If you had 3 guyz you could probably get away with using 1 max 2 sticks you just need people to hold the sections together while 1 person fuses and since that person holding needs to hold it in place a few minutes the fusor will dry in the stirring stick and you will need another so I suggest having at least 4 stirring sticks with 2 guyz.
pm me if you have any questions or want supplies for this job. I found it very easy once I knew how to use the fusor. You just have to take a few hours making the fill sections which don't have to be perfect but should fill the whole area generally well. Fusor will fill in areas that need filling. It dries like extremely hard plastic/tar
I forgot to add fusor both sides top/bottom http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Modified by ruetzal at 12:37 PM 2-22-2010
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Bump this awesomeness. Pics please!
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can anyone shed some light on how to replace the gasdoor on a b5 passat?
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Wrong forum? Possibly the B5 tech support?
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Painting wheels?
i found this link through google - http://howtopaintwheels.com/index.php - and im a newbie to paint (except for what ive learned from vortex and other sites) so i was wondering what everyone's thoughts where on the process this guy does. im looking to change this
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to this
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thanks!
i found this link through google - http://howtopaintwheels.com/index.php - and im a newbie to paint (except for what ive learned from vortex and other sites) so i was wondering what everyone's thoughts where on the process this guy does. im looking to change this
to this
thanks!
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JimmyzKustomz is the best garage that I know of plus their work is exceptional.
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