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We will now focus our attention on wiring up the speaker wires to the radio wire harness. This part is where solder will come in handy, and I highly suggest you use solder or find someone that can do it for you. You will get the best connection this way and it will be the best way to ensure the cables will stay connected. I did not have the opportunity to use a solder gun, so I used another method which I will discuss later. What we need to do now is locate your rear left and rear right speaker wires. In the picture below I highlighted the appropriate wires to attach your speaker wires to. There is a diagram on the back of your radio that you can go off of to locate these wires. Please notice the pos on the left and neg on the right of the plug.

Since I did not have a solder gun to attach these wires, I simply stripped a small section from the rubber surrounding the wire on the wire harness, wrapped the end of each speaker wire around the appropriate wire in the harness. I then wrapped a good amount of electrical tape around each wire where there was a splice or open wire showing. Then I put a zip tie over the center of the connection (as shown in the pictures below). Ensure if you do this method you wrap the speaker wire around the harness where bare metal is showing then, you wrap the electrical tape in the same direction so you do not unravel your speaker wire from the harness wire. A picture of the Rear left pos and neg wire connection.

A picture of the rear right pos and neg wire connection.

Please notice the positive wires have a red stripe where as the neg (ground) wires have a brown stripe. After attaching all of these wires a placed a few more zip ties in certain locations to ensure the speakers wires will not jiggle at all in the dash. After completing this step, put the radio and dash back together in the EXACT same order that you took it apart. DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE TURN ON THE RADIO NOW, WAIT UNTIL INSTALATION IS COMPLETE!!! We now move to the power cable and Amp turn on lead. This step was a pain in the a$$ to do alone, if you have someone to help you here it would make it a lot easier. First step will be to disconnect the battery from the vehicle. You will need to disconnect the ground wire first, then the POS wire, Remove the battery and then break down the battery box to gain access to the firewall where the power cable will be ran through. You will need a 10MM wrench for the battery terminals and a 13MM socket for the battery itself. The below picture is of the 13mm bolt that holds the battery in place.

The battery box breaks down relatively easy and should not require any instructions to uninstall or install. We are now going to run the power cable and Amp turn on lead from the rear of the vehicle to the driver side kick panel. All of the doorsill pieces remove exactly the same as the passenger side did. Below are pictures of the power cable and turn on lead, I decided to zip tie them (kind of loosely) as to keep them away from any moving pieces and the rear seat cushion.



The next step is to remove the kicker panel on the driver side. This part is pretty tricky due to the hood latch release handle. First you will need to get a flat head screw driver and pry up on a little clip that is holding the handle in place. Be careful with this clip because it is VERY fragile and you do not want to break it. The picture below shows where the clip is that needs to be taken out.

The below picture is of the handle with the clip re-inserted in it so you get the idea of how it works and how to take it out.


The clips that hold the handle to the cable mechanism are highlighted red.

Once this is removed you will need to remove this plastic screw which holds the kick panel to the vehicle. There is a plastic cap over the screw that just pops off


Once this is removed you can no disassemble the upper door sill and the side of the dash the same exact way as the passenger side. Once you have all of this removed we will now attach the Amp turn on lead to the fuse box with the “add a fuse” fuse tap. This item will be plugged into fuse 41. This fuse is to the rear windshield wiper, it turns on and off with the ignition. Below are pictures of the fuse tap installed.


Once this piece is installed you can now place the side of the dash and upper sill back in place. We will now move to the removal of the under dash guard near the pedals. First off we will unscrew 2 T20 screws. The pictures below have the two screws highlighted.


Once we have these two screws removed we can now move to the removal of two wired items at the bottom of the dash. The first step is to slowly pull the dash guard down to expose the rear of these wire connectors. The first wire connector is easy to remove; the picture below has the two clips holding it in place highlighted in red.

The next step is to remove the other connector. You need to take either a hook from your hook and pick set or a flathead screw driver and push on the bottom two tabs to get this clip removed. Be gentle because these tabs are fragile. Below is a picture of the two tabs that need to be unclipped.


Once we have this done the dash guard is free from the vehicle and can now be placed in a safe spot. We will now be running the power cable to the front of the vehicle through the firewall. For those of you with automatic or DSG transmissions you will luck out and be able to use the clutch opening in the firewall to route this wire. For those of you who are like me and have a manual transmission you will need to either (A) drill a hole through your firewall or (B) Take the route I took and poke a hole through an existing grommet for a wire harness. I suggest the latter due to the fact that it is reversible. But either will work fine. This is where the buddy will come in handy. First off you will need to locate a grommet that you will like to use; I used the main wire harness grommet due to the convenient location and size. I first poked a hole through the grommet with a screw driver, located it in the engine bay and then (in the same hole made by the screwdriver) I slid a hook from my hook and pick set through the grommet. I had then attached the power cable to the hook and pulled it through. All though this sounds relatively easy on paper (so to say) I assure you it is not. Unless you have a buddy you might be doing this process a couple times to get everything to work out perfectly. Below are pictures of my screw driver through the grommet.

This is a farther away view of the location of this grommet.

Once you have the power cable through pull as much of the slack out that you can, leaving enough in under the dash so you can maneuver the wire if need be, and enough in the trunk so you can maneuver the amp if need be. Now you can reassemble your vehicles interior. Start with the lower dash guard followed by the kick panel and hood release latch then the lower doorsill and last but not least the rear seat cushion. Your vehicle should look completely stock if you had done all of this the right way. Now that the interior is good to go you can place the battery back in under the hood, bolt it back in place and place the battery box around it. Once you have this done DO NOT attach the ground and Pos cable yet. We will need to attach the amp power cable and fuse to the battery. First off the fuse must be the absolute last thing done to this process. I attached my power cable to the pos terminal as such in the picture below.

You can do it however it pleases you, as long as you have a good positive connection. KEEPING THE WIRES AWAY FROM THE POS TERMINAL we will now cut the Amp power cable 10-15 inches away from where it is connected to the pos terminal. Place the fuse in holder in between these two points in the power line and attach the fuse hold to the battery box using the ½” sheet metal screws (Ensuring you are not touching any of the positive wiring behind the battery box.) Go ahead and attach the positive power cable to the battery and next the negative. STILL LEAVING THE FUSE OUT OF THE FUSE CARRIER!! We now haead to the back of the vehicle where the amp will be stored. Since I opted to mount my amp to my sub box my ground cable need to be long enough to reach almost anywhere in the trunk, so I opted to drill a small hole in the sheet metal, sanded away the paint around the hole and added my ground wire there using a ½” sheet metal screw. The below picture illustrates where I attached my grounding wire.


Now you can plug all of the appropriate wires into there correct spots in the amp. Going back to the Audiolink LOC under the passenger seat, I now attached all of the wires as needed and grounded the LOC on one of the near by screws holding the satellite receiver in place. Below is a picture of the LOC with all wires attached.

The black plastic in the above picture is the guard protecting the receiver. My LOC is sitting comfortably beneath it as well. Now that everything is attached and grounded it out, it is time to add the fuse to the fuse holder. Once you have done this, put the key in the ignition and turn to the on position. Do not start the vehicle; let it sit in the on position for a minute or two then start it. Play your favorite beats and listen to the box in the back. Adjust the balance and fade to ensure you have pick up from both left and right rear speakers.

She’s a beauty isn’t she? 600 watts of pure bass 12” 1242D Alpine type R with an Alpine MRP-M650 Amp.
Okay Ladies and Gentlemen, this is the end of the sub and amp install. if you have any questions feel free to email me I will be more than glad to help! I have used this site for numerous things and now it is my turn to give back. The install took me 2 days, the write up 3 days and I had to turn it into a 3 parter because you could not have more than 20,000 characters on one page. So here you go Vortex ENJOY!! And continue passing the knowledge and helping your fellow dubbers.....cheers!!

-Karl
 

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I printed out all 3 faqs this weekend and was able to hook up my sub. Awesome job. I have a single 1300W Sony 12, and an 800W Pioneer amp in a sealed Q-logic box. It sounds lovely.
Keeping the headunit by using the LOC was essential, thanks so much 2 literbully
 

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Re: PART 3 GTI Sub Amp and LOC installation 91 pics 56k dont bother (boricuacvc)

Nice job.. there are only two things I would be worried about..
1. Put a Relay on the Amp turn on lead.. I see that you fused it at the box but it would be just yet another safety precaution.
2. Looking at the install .. you added this to the OEM system. If it is amplified make sure you adjust the input of the Line Level adapter Down. This will help minimized distortion to the sub amp. (the OEM amplified system is already high powered and its just something to help your sub long term life..)
Thanks.. Cause I will be doing this in my Rabbit soon.. Well done.
 

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take it to a shop.....

Quote, originally posted by khyungs »
yea... umm... either u're comin over or i'm takin it to the shop.


...using electrical tape and zip ties in place of proper connectors is a hack job. This is an electrical nightmare waiting to happen and a prime example of why dealers won't warranty modified cars.
I can't believe that anyone would do this to their car....
 

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Re: take it to a shop..... (cb1111)

Quote, originally posted by cb1111 »


...using electrical tape and zip ties in place of proper connectors is a hack job. This is an electrical nightmare waiting to happen and a prime example of why dealers won't warranty modified cars.
I can't believe that anyone would do this to their car....

Yeah dude.. that is quite Ghetto... at least use connecters.. Best way to have it done is solder and tape.. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: PART 3 GTI Sub Amp and LOC installation 91 pics 56k dont bother (xbr80bx)

Hey great job! I searched, but I can't seem to find parts 1 and 2. Think that you could provide a link?
Cheers.
 

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Re: take it to a shop..... (cb1111)

Quote, originally posted by cb1111 »


...using electrical tape and zip ties in place of proper connectors is a hack job. This is an electrical nightmare waiting to happen and a prime example of why dealers won't warranty modified cars.
I can't believe that anyone would do this to their car....

the OP is aware of that...
im gonna search for part 1 and 2.
edit: hope you dont mind me posting links to part 1 and 2
part 1
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3250477
part 2
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3250541
thanks for the write up http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif



Modified by VR6 BeelzeDub at 7:11 PM 9-5-2007
 

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Re: PART 3 GTI Sub Amp and LOC installation 91 pics 56k dont bother (user name unknown)

Also find a grounding stud, don't screw into the sheet metal. I mean it will work, but if you want it done right use a factory ground.
 

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Re: (Hkysk8r07)

Quick question - is this a write up based on the Premium Audio system? I know the picture of the Head Unit says "Premium", but I was also told by the dealer that the Premium system came with an amp. If so, where would the amp be located ?
Thanks in advance.
(Getting my GTI in < 48 hrs
)


Modified by Hans Delbruck at 8:46 PM 9-22-2007
 

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Re: PART 3 GTI Sub Amp and LOC installation 91 pics 56k dont bother (2litrebully)

I just installed a 10" sub Type E and the mono amp MRP-450. I don't need more bass than that...
My only concern (if there's one) is that when I turn on the radio, the amp and sub do not power on. When I insert the key into the ignition an move it to ON position the amp and sub work. This doesn't bother me but what is happening?
 
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