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Discussion Starter #21
Re: Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs (jebglx)

Quote, originally posted by corific »
I am new to this forum and thought maybe a newbie perspective might be helpful, my top ten faq's have been (vr6 related):
1. What is that snow-cone looking screen thing in the airbox? Is is neccesary?
-Take it out or clean regularily, even take out the flap and cone from back side for better airflow and sound.
2. Small amounts of oil dripping from middle of car
-replace oil cooler seals, could be oil pan also

3. Fuel filter is under passenger wheel well, pull fuse 14?? and run car before
changing, get ready for some gas to come out.
4. Oil in intake boot (before throttle body), or/and up and down idling.
-related to crankcase ventilation , clean often or get a breather
(do search in archive for oil breather)
5. Best oil = Mobil 1 (grade depending on location and season), Filter = Mann (drop in type, canister direct center in front of motor, black thing with large nut on bottom, small allen-key plug in center)
6. Plug wire puller tool needed to get plug wires out. Some may have one
attached to hood support (I didn't)

7. Best plugs = NGK , no champion!!!! (for any car)
8. Coolant leaks
-Check around reservoir bottle, hoses and bottle itself
-Flush and fill with G11 or G12 from VW dealer (dexcool?)
-Get that Green S*** out of there asap if you have it
9. Timing chains - tensionner bad = mucho damage, VR6
10. Heater core - fragile, can re-route hoses going into firewall for temporary fix. VW may reimburse for repair (check archive search).
Hope this is of use to newer people on the forum.
 

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Re: Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs (jebglx)

Quote, originally posted by VW Fox »
Dasher Owners Group.
 

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Re: Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs (jebglx)

Quote, originally posted by SoulJer74 »
My old Heater Core fix that was on the VW Mafia Passat page..
=============
same happened to me VWofCan said that "your VIN is not on the list", the recall ended mid '90......
I did it my self got he original part for only $75 buck CDN, dealer wanted $175. It's not too difficult, just time consumming. Seriously don't be afraid! I only used 3 tools - phillips to remove all the trim, slot to remove the clips on the airbox (to remove it from the AC box) and curved pliers to remove the 6 bolts holding the dash on. I can give you a write up if you wish.
-start by removing all the little trim pieces, vents etc....
-remove the parking brake cover (screws in the rear ashtray)
-remove the gear cover and work your way to the center console (all phillps screws)
-remove window, seat heater switches etc (label your wiring!)
-remove radio (get your security code first if stock)
-remove steering wheel, then main gauges (this may be the only hard part if you have the "cabled" gauges instead of the 'plug n play')
-locate the pair of bolts on the left and right outside edges of the dash and centre console, remove
- re-route all the wiring so it will not interfere with dash removal
- I think here you may be able to wiggle out the top panel vent from the main damper assembly (two clips on rt/lt near mid-bottom hold it in place)
- carefully start pulling the dash off from the 2 mounts on the firewall
- stick it outta the way
- clear your working area in the car
- remove the clips that mate the 'center' box to the A/C side (if you have A/C)
- located the nuts inside the engine bay that would corlate to where the center air box is, remove
- there are clips at the back of the mating which I could not even get to so I just let them break of, no biggie
- once the center box containing the heater core is out, it just slips out, new one goes in
- reinstall is opposite of above
- filler up, leave the cap loose to 'bleed' the system of air while driving, topper up
- good as new
I know this is VERY simplistic, it did take me 2 days (about 4-5 hours per day) I have no manuals, it was actually a good learning experince of what it car is made of. I never would want to do it again (I still have cooling/core issues - I can literally smell it still, even though I cleaned it out), but I could probably do it now in half the time....
Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Re: Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs (jebglx)

Quote, originally posted by Action Jackson »
I'd love to be the first to talk about....

The B3 sycnro
Note I know little about the previous syncro's.. as in Quantums. Somebody else may have to pipe up to cover those.
The B3 syncro
Primarily sold as a 1992 model, although some have been had in 91 and 93. The Passat syncro was sold in Canada only, featured the 1.8l G60 supercharged engine also available in the Corrado. The Passat syncro had 11 inch Corrado brakes as well. It has been estimated (and assumed correct that) only 300 units were shipped to Canada, of which 200 were sedans, 100 were wagons.
B3 Passat syncro's claim to fame is the syncro viscous coupling activated AWD system. It drives the front wheels, and detects wheel spin and transfers power to the rear wheels. Unlike Audi's quattro, syncro does not transfer power from side to side, but only front to back.
a great link about syncro's: VW syncro Enthusuiasts
and another great link to AWD information :Introduction to All Wheel Drive systems
It is important to note that the B3 syncro differs greatly from the popular Audi quattro system, as the syncro mates the the B3 tranverse engine platform. Quattro uses a longitudinal platform. The syncro trany and rear diff is capable of handling 300+ hp and is in my opinion a reliable system.
It was recently noted that non-syncro Passat wagons have the same rear floor pan as syncro wagons, so if swapping is in your budget, then the wagon is a good place to start. However it would be cheaper and simpler to just buy someone elses syncro. Sedan syncros have an entirely different rear floor pan, as it is raised to accomodate the mounting of the rear diff.
The syncro rear suspension was also a complete independant setup. Rear suspension upgrades are not cheap, and no camber adjustment exists using stock parts.
Note in Europe, the B4 also sold as a syncro, with various engine options from 8v to VR6. These were not sold in North America.


oh, and if anyone has a syncro they wish to get rid of, pleae IM me!!

 

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Discussion Starter #26
Re: Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs (jebglx)

Quote, originally posted by EatMud »
LIGHTING
Headlights
General:
- Removal of DRLs (Day-time Running Lights) - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?918116
- What's the difference between E-code/E-spec and OEM headlights? - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1004325
- Jumpers for fog light relay - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?965205
- B3/B4 Custom relay harnesses for headlights - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?832552
B1:
OEM -
- [Part#?] - ~$Approximate Cost?
B2:
OEM - - [] - ~$
B3:
DOT OEM - - [] - ~$
E-spec OEM - - [] - ~$
E-spec DE projectors Clear - - [] - ~$
E-spec DE projectors Smoked - - [] - ~$
Dual Round - - [] - ~$
Dual Round (requires Zender grille) - - [] - ~$
E36 conversion - I know someone out there did this, I just cant remember who it was
E46 conversion - I think someone did this.
Audi conversion - Matts b3 - does anyone have any links to any info on this
B4:
DOT OEM - - [] - ~$
Replacing burnt out bulbs - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?923601
E-code OEM - - [] - ~$
E-code - - [] - ~$
E36 conversion - - [] - ~$
Instuctions - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?251202
Pictures - http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/...o.com/
Pictures - http://www.vdubaddiction.com/members/gti16vman/
Pictures - http://www.geocities.com/passaultb4/Home.html
Audi conversion - I remember seeing pictures of a converted B4
Corner Lights
General:
-
B1:
OEM - - [] - ~$
B2:
OEM - - [] - ~$
B3:
DOT OEM amber - - [] - ~$
E-spec amber - - [] - ~$
E-spec amber - - [] - ~$
E-spec Clear - - [] - ~$
E-spec Clear - - [] - ~$
E-spec Smoked - - [] - ~$
B4:
DOT OEM - - [] - ~$
E-code OEM - Dummy Clear Corners - - [9HB 006 948-031, 9HB 006 948-031] - ~$35
E-code - Dummy Clear Corners - - [] - ~$
DIY: Working Clear Corners
Rear lights
General:
- DIY Tinting - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...27685
B1:
OEM - - [] - ~$
B2:
OEM - - [] - ~$
B3:
DOT and E-spec the same OEM Amber- - [] - ~$
Black/Red - - [] - ~$
All black
all black
Tinted - I'M sure there are other brands out there, someone help me out
B4:
DOT OEM - - [] - ~$
Tinted - - [] - ~$
SideMarkers/Badges
General:
- Wiring Instuctions - http://www.kersur.net/~btillma....html
- More Wiring Instuctions - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?922627
- More Wiring Instuctions/Discussion - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?279985
- More Wiring Instuctions/Discussion - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?506206
B1:
OEM? - - [] - ~$
B2:
OEM? - - [] - ~$
B3:
DOT OEM - Badges - - [] - ~$
E-code OEM - SideMarkers - - [] - ~$
A3 Jetta/Golf/Gti/Cabrio sidemarkers are all compatible
B4:
DOT OEM - Badges - - [] - ~$
E-code - SideMarkers - - [] - ~$
Turn signal/Fog lights
General:
-
B1:
OEM? - - [] - ~$
B2:
OEM? - - [] - ~$
B3:
OEM - - [] - ~$
B4:
DOT OEM - - [] - ~$
Smoked Turn signals w/ fog lamps dummy - - [3062] - ~$
Smoked Turn signals w/ fog lamps - - [3065] - ~$
Interior
General:
- Gauge face swap... and LED replacement - http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...85082
- Gauge Cluster Lighting Mod - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?672009
- Custom Gauge Cluster with black light (instructions) - http://www.icbm.org/erkson/per...hting/
- How to Swap the LEDs in the Window switches - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?355553
- Does anyone know which car have there gauge clusters in common???
- Euro Headlight Switch - - [3A1941531E] - ~$ Timmons VW in Ca. $99 shipped I don't know if this is for the B3 or the B4?? are they interchangable??
B1:
- - [] - ~$
B2:
- - [] - ~$
B3:
MPH - White/Silver Dash Gauges - - [] - ~$
KPH - Syncro, 16V - White/Silver Dash Gauges - - [] - ~$25 - http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?420086
KPH - VR6 - White/Silver Dash Gauges - - [] - ~$
B4:
MPH - White/Silver Dash Gauges - - [] - ~$
KPH - White/Silver Dash Gauges - - [] - ~$
KPH - VR6 - White/Silver Dash Gauges - - [] - ~$ Does anyone know if they Exist?
Definitions
E-code/E-spec: A part that is "E-Code" or "E-spec" meets European specifications
DOT: (Department of Transportation) A part that is "DOT" meets North American specifications
OEM: (Original Equipment Manufacture) The part that comes with your car
PLEASE POST ANY ADDITIONS TO THE FOLLOWING THREAD http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1030043
 

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Discussion Starter #27

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Discussion Starter #28
Re: Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs (jebglx)

Quote, originally posted by amper »
Just some quick thoughts...
Thing That Will Break, or Probably Break (based on my humble experience with two 1993 Passat GLX Sedans with Automatic Transmissions In the Family)
1. Your first set of tires (early recall)
2. Your cooling fans (early recall)
3. Your climate control system controls
4. Your sunroof
5. Your heater core
6. Your auxiliary water pump
7. Your automatic transmission
8. Your coilpack, if you have one...
9. Your front spoiler.
Other thoughts...
1. For good 215/50-15 tires, try Dunlop SP Sport 5000's...stay away from the Goodyear Eagle GA's. I got 40-50,000 miles out of my last two sets of Dunlop's, and I'm not nice to them. They're great in the rain (unlike the Goodyears), and great in the dry, too.
2. If you have a VR6, especially a B3, use synthetic oil--they run *really* hot. Oil temps of 260 deg. F on hot days running hard are not uncommon. I use Mobil 1 0w-30 year round.
3. If you have an automatic transmission, use synthetic ATF, and change it often, say every 30,000 miles at most. A new auto transmission for a B3 VR6 runs $3-4,000 and are not easy to come by. Rebuilding is next to impossible for the CFA I have as VW documentation is very poor for this particular model. Later transmissions are better, I hear. Again, I use Mobil 1 ATF.
4. If you have a Passat earlier than a B5, accept that you will find little in the way of performance/customization parts, at least in the US. You'll feel much better...

 

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Re: Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs (jebglx)

Quote, originally posted by scottnbarb »
I am trying to gather some info on the different interiors for our Passats. This would be a good post to add to the FAQ's for everybody if we can compile it here.
1) Front dash - only black In Europe there are more choices. I have a B4 with blue dash and blue door pillars / sill trims
2) Leather interiors
- black
- grey
- tan
- any other colors?
3) plastic trim - their color match the leather interior
- black trim - black leather
- grey trim - grey leather
- tan trim - tan leather
4) carpet - it matchs the trim and leather
5) roof lining - it only come in tan
6) cloth interior - colors?
- the cloth matchs the trim
Now, how about mixing car interiors between a B3 & a B4
Here is what I think I know, please correct me if I am wrong!
1) Front seats are interchangable without any mods.
- B3 sedan & wagon, B4 sedan & wagon
2) Rear seats are also interchangable, without any mods
3) Door cards are interchangable
- B3 sedans & wagons
- B4 sedans & wagons
- B3 -> B4 You need everything; from handle to lock mechanism
4) Front dash - I remember someone saying this is not too difficult to do
- B3 -> B4?
1) There was also neptune blue and platinum dashes. My red 91 was platinum, hard to tell it from black in some light.
2) There was also bedouin (brown) leather.
3) brown, tan, grey, blue, black It probably matches the leather. Interesting point: Have you ever noticed that a tan cloth interior has a black kneebar and a tan leather interior has a tan kneebar? Both cars have tan carpet and trim. I know this is true for GLX's, I don't know about the other colors.
That's incorrect, my B3 had tan saharan cloth (I swapped to tan leather) and it has an original tan kneebar
4) carpet is in the same 5 colors so it probably does match the trim and leather.
5) Headliners were in light grey and tan. My two B3's had grey. Grey was used with black, blue, and grey trim.
6) Early B3's had the 5 basic colors above, but the pattern varied by year. All GLX's had the black/silver with multi-color dots, the only cloth interior on B3 GLX's.
mixing-
1) correct
2) I don't think the "reclining" rear seat of 16V cars will fit in VR6 cars. Aren't the extra electronics under the GLX's rear seat in the way of the mechanism?
3) Hmm... I don't know. Speaker setups are different. Otherwise it might.
4) I don't think you'd swap the dash, they're the same. You could add the glovebox to the B4 without swapping dashes.
Here's one I forgot.
Center console B4 --> b3
- Everything from the ashtray back fits - get rear bracket at the back to bolt onto.
- This gives you the arm rest, leather e-brake and rear cupholder.
Changing a B3 Glovebox link:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?941227
Redoing the headliner in our cars:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?878766
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?781643
Here's one for you US B3's!
- The Canadian B3's have the manual seatbelt
- The US B3's have the automatic seatbelt - real pain in the but
- The Canadian B3 seatbelt with the pillar trim will swap directly over to the US B3's!
In Europe there are more choices.
I have a B4 with blue dash and blue door pillars / sill trims
B4 belts and trim fit B3's. rhussjr put B4 belts and pillar trim in the "silver bullett" wagon.
Someone has tested the fit of fold down wagon seats swapped out for sedan seats. So we know those work...
My Passat sedan I had before the wagon was a '91 GL but had ABS, just like a GLX. I don't think the reclining rear seat is an issue with any cars. Just maybe not desireable in wagons because the seat bottoms do not flip up, allowing the seat backs to fold flat.
Original Post http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?942237
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Re: Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs (jebglx)

Quote, originally posted by PaulSE »
ABS simple troubleshooting
-------------------------------
First thing to check are the ABS wheel sensors. Trace wires from each wheel to the ABS controller. Find a connector where you can disconnect the wire and measure resistance in the ABS sensor. Connector locations in B4: rear sensors under back seat, front sensors behind suspension upper mountings in engine compartment.

-Measure ohms on each sensor: about 1000 ohms is OK. If shorted or broken, or in an intermediate state, the ABS lamp will go on.

-If a bad sensor is found, verify ABS controller function: insert a 1000 ohm resistor in the connector on the controller side of the wire. This should turn off the ABS lamp when you have turned on ignition. If I remember right, the ABS lamp should come on again when you drive faster than about 12-15 mph because there are no wheel pulses from the dummy sensor.
 

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Re: Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs (jebglx)

Quote, originally posted by Zardoz! »
To all those with fuel/temp gauge woes looking for the bad solder joint.
Let me save you a little time.
There is a plugin voltage regulator behind the tach on the printed circuit board.
This gets hot, that is the reason that is has a screw holding it to a piece of metal (heat sink)
OK see it ?
Look at where the three prongs from the regulator plug into the blue connector on the back of the board.--- The Bentley book calls it a "voltage stabilizer"
Found the blue connector?
Now on the front of the board where the connector solders to the board you will see two rows of three solder connections.
Get your magnifying glass out and see if there are any cracks around the solder joints.
You may have to wiggle the connector to see them. (easy here, don't over do it, if they weren't broke they will be!)
One other place to look, where the gauges plug into the board there are 4 pins from the gauge (3 for the tach) that go through the board and slide into connectors (clips) on the rear of the board.
These will get loose after a while and not make good contact with the pins.
Use a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze them in a little (with the pins out of the connector).
Again easy does it,,,,DON'T Screw up what's NOT BROKE !
Hope this helps and saves you some time.
If this doesn't help,,,,Oh well I tried.
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Re: Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs (jebglx)

Quote, originally posted by pg1syncro »
Passat Color Codes 1989-1997 (Germany):









pg1syncro

 

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Re: Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs (jebglx)

Quote, originally posted by Rippen Raymen »
i think this thread needs to be cleaned up.....
i've found myself linking my armrest thread a lot so i thought i'd add it to here:
for a great armrest and cupholders for a b3 i suggest this: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1150574

they make them for b4 too but no cupsholder. you'd have to switch to a b3 rear center console if you wanted the sliding motion and cup holders.
imho, well worth the $90
 

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Re: Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs (jebglx)

Quote, originally posted by Armani »
Well after searching and searching for a used power mirror knob, I decided to try and fix the knob myself. The problem I was having was that the PWR knob was hanging in place. Making it difficult to adjust the PWR mirrors with one hand. Like so:

Here's what I did to fix this. First I started to remove the panel that holds the knob.

Stick a small flat head screwdriver into the slit. Being awfully careful not to scratch the leather or the cloth interior. I used a precision head screwdriver for this job.

Then using your hand or use the screwdriver to continue to take out the remaining clips of the door panel.

Here's what it should look like:

You should proceed to unplug the knob from the connector. After taking mine out that's when I noticed that the OE clips were missing from the slits on the knob. As I point out here.

I used some old small metal conductors from a small flashlight. They are bendable and strong. (not too flimsy) You could use some left over metal scraps from a metal shop. But be sure it is not too strong; where it can't bend or is uncuttable.

I cut them down to size so that they would fit in the slit and would still be high enough to make contact with the panel.

And after this step just go back in reverse thru the steps to put the panel back on. Be careful not to pinch the power windows/ mirrors cable in the process. The knob should snap into place making it fit snuggly.

Great job well done! Hope you can find this useful!
Posted in the FAQ just in case someone needed it...
 

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Re: Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs (jebglx)

Quote, originally posted by PaulSE »
No charging at idle speed
--------------------------
Symptoms: dimmed headlights, starting problems, even dying engine during drive
Possible cause: battery dosen't get charged regularly due to bad charge indicator in the instrument cluster
Trobuleshooting actions:
1. Measure voltage after start, and note when it rises to about 14 V:
- at idle speed? everything is OK, drive and you will recharge the battery
- when the engine reaches about 2000 rpm? something is wrong,
but charging is probably OK when you drive at normal speed
2. Stop the engine and turn on ignition without starting:
- Does the charge indicator light? Aha-it doesn't but you didn't notice because the handbrake indicator next to it was on.
The Alternator needs a small current to magnetize the rotor to get the charging working immediately after start.
It draws this current via the charge indicator in the instrument cluster. If the indicator (a simple lamp or some circuitry) fails,
the charging won't start until the alternator produces enough magnetization current by itself, which happens at about 2000 rpm.

Quick fix until you decide to repair the cluster:
connect a 70-150 ohms resistor (5 W) between a switched 12 V supply (not directly from the battery,as it will slowly discharge) and the D+ input on the alternator (remove and insulate the original connector)

You can connect the resistor to any supply which is coupled via the ignition switch, e.g. city lights or marker lights.

 

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Re: Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs (jebglx)

Action Jackson:
Cool Blue: switching to blue dash lights and red switches/buttons
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?543257
Quote, originally posted by Action Jackson »
Well this mod has taken me about 6 months! But much of that was not doing anything.. I finnally just said to heck with it and jumped in. If you wanted a mechanic to do it, just make sure their soldering skills are decent, or else it will take more time and $$$. Heck do i your self! It isn't that hard, just needs a steady hand.
The window switches are easy. Simple swapping of the LED, from green to red. The red ones I used are WAY brighter! I think the factory ones are 20 micro candles (mcd) and the red ones I used are 100
! Damm, you'll never miss the window switch again! Oh!, they're also 1.5V 20mA LED's. Now to get the rear defogger and fog light switches it got tricky. I had to remove a 12V bulb and replace it with the LED's I bought. Since the LED's were 1.5V, I used a resistor to step down the power. I'll have to check, but I think it was 1500 ohms, maybe 1100.
Now the blue lighting was also more complex, where I also needed to use resistors. The blue LED's were I think 4V, 20mA and the resistor was a 1k ohm, but you could go as low as 800 ohms. I used the dash bulb holders (removed the bulb) and simply soldered the resistor and LED into it. Makes for a nice install. I do have picutres of these, but I have to get them developed. Anyway, the Blue LED's were supper bright, some 3500 mcd I was told at the electronics store. The luminisity is also very focused, so I had to point them down at a 90 degree from the bulb holder. this way they shine directly onto the gauges.
The last part was the clock light. Same blue LED and resistor as before, but this time I just soldered it right onto the dash circuit board. ONe thing, the LED I used is not exactly right for this app as it is so bright and focused, you see a blue dot in hte clock, and it doen't all luminate as well as I wanted. Oh well. All for about $30 in parts! (Blue Diodes/LED's are $4.00 a peice, the rest was like $5 or $6 and then the 8% for Mike and 7% for Jean
...)
I'm gonna try to get the rest of my camera used up tomorrow so I can take the pics in Tues.

Quote, originally posted by Action Jackson »
OK so I finally have pics to show after 3 years. Maybe I'm a but of a procrastinator... what can I say.
Its still blue, and red, and I'm loving it

 

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Re: Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs (jebglx)

Hidden MFA Functions
Quote, originally posted by alkeli »
Not sure if anyone else knows about these, but for those who don't, the MFA has some hidden functions.
Here's how you do it:
1.Switch your MFA switch to position 1
2.Switch your car to "ON" (Don't start it!)
3.Press and hold the mode button
4.Turn the key to "Off", then back on.
5.Release the mode button.
Now when you cycle through the modes, you get this info:
-Engine MAP code
-Country code (1=Canada, 4=US)
-speedometer drive ratio
-upper RPM limit
-lower RPM limit
-deceleration fuel shutoff pressure (mbars)
-LCD Test
And, if you do this:
1.Switch your MFA switch to position 2
2.Switch your car to "ON" (Don't start it!)
3.Press and hold the mode button
4.Turn the key to "Off", then back on.
5.Release the mode button.
6.Start the car and drive
You now get these values:
-Test checksum of programmed bytes in memory
-intake manifold vacuum (mbar)
-engine rpm's
-fuel consumption
-signal from speed sensor
-oil temperture
-Outside temperature

So I'm not sure if anyone knew about these things but I thought they were interesting and thought I'd share with those who didn't know

Try it, maybe some people will get different readings or something, I'd like to know if the newer cars get more function readouts.
Apparently B3's that are 93-94 might have to do this using the odometer reset button instead of the MFA mode button.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Re: Passat - All Other Models Forum FAQs (jebglx)

Quote, originally posted by izzo »
Explanation of VINs
http://passat.is.dreaming.org/manuals
I got that embedded so just type the VIn and it will spit the info......
 
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