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Disclaimer : This DIY is a guide and you follow at your own risk. I document things that are not recommended by VW and you may void your warranty and/or have the possibility of having your car inoperable or in a dangerous condition that can be hazardous or fatal.

Follow this at your own risk!!!!

This DIY was done on my own vehicle - a South African registered 2000 Passat B5 1.8T right hand drive.

Tools required

- torx 55 bit
- various smaller torx bits for dash screws
- allen keys for stalk ring clamp
- screwdrivers
- vag com cable
- multimeter will help with troubleshooting if you encounter problems like I did
- spade connectors
- screwdrivers
- 10 & 8 socket
- patience :)

First thing first.

Let's check the car's ecu

Switch the ignition to the ON position and look for EPC on the dash. If it shows EPC then continue further.

Open Up your vag com program and plug in the OBDII cable that is located under the coin tray in the centre console area.

when you click on 01 - Engine you will have this screen provided you can get the cable to communicate.

NOTE : the "g" in the component field - this means the ecu is activated for cruise control - mine is already activated by it does no harm to go through the process to make sure it is done.

NB : See the rosstech website if you are having difficulties connecting your laptop to the cable - http://www.ross-tech.com/

Once you have clicked on login you will get this screen

type in 11463 and click on "Do It!"

That's it your done.

Now for the physical part of the install.

I ordered this via ebay from the Teesside guys.
their ebay store - http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/vw_teesside
their website - http://vwgolfr32.co.uk/

Even though I did this at the end of the install I'd like to mention this now.

My car did not have the location in the fuse panel to take a fuse so I cut the connector of the end of the supplied wiring ( with the 2-pin black connector ) and spliced it into a switched 12v feed from the light switch.

Note the fuse location at number 11 - NOT 5 as indicated by the screwdriver tip.

Now let's disconnect the battery. 10mm spanner needed.

Now back in the interior

Please note that different steering wheels require different methods for removal.

NB : Please be careful with the airbag and note safety precautions.

I have the three spoke wheel and needed to turn the wheel to 90 degrees ( first one way and then the other ) , stick a screwdriver in the back recess and lever this part to loosen the airbag. I the pulled it out and released the airbag connector.

You can unscrew the torx 55 bolt that holds the steering wheel down.
Before removing the wheel, mark the position on the wheel and splines so you can re-align the wheel again.

with the steering wheel removed you can access the 2 hidden screws that hold the bottom steering column on. Remove them and also remove the bottom two screws.

then remove the adjustment handle screws.

Maneuver the lower and top covers from the steering column.

You will now look at this. Note my clocks are off indicating my disconnected battery.

you can now pull off all the connectors on both the right and left side stalks.

remove the slipring mechanism via the three clips that hold it onto the stalk indicators. be careful not to break them.

The cars equipped with traction control or ESP must be careful not to move the slipring out of of position when removed.

With the slipring removed you can loosen the steel clamp ring via the torx or allen bolt at the top.

Now pull of the stalk mechanism as a whole.

You can split the two by sticking a screwdriver in here - be patient and be careful. Look how it is connected and leverage accordingly.

put the new stalk on.

to gain access to the fuses and to get freedom to route wiring you can remove the front panel by removing the 3 screws by the fuse panel on the door. Then there is another 2 screws below. One by the wallet panel one by the user manual panel.

An additional 2 screws can be removed to get rid of the additional center cover over the steering column.

from this point on I deviated. I ran the supplied wire loom the way I saw fit. I'm sorry I didn't take more pictures but I got into the swing of things and got aggro as they weren't working, hence my deviation.

If you have done electrics before this shouldn't be too hard. Just take it slow.

I tried to follow the instructions on connecting the connectors in the right slots but they didn't seem to fit and they bent and broke so I simply cut the wires and connected them via spade connectors. Much easier and took my 5 minutes after I struggled for 2 hours to do it via the manual.

the 4 paired wires are the control wires and the singular black red wire goes to a switched 12v supply.

doing it this way may void your warranty and it doesn't look stock, but it can save you dropping the fuse panels to gain access, although dropping the fuse panels is not too bad and it gives good access.

the 4 paired wires connect to the same colours on the connector blocks below the ecu that is accessible in the engine bay. remove the 10mm bolts that hold the plastic cover down. the rear one is a PITA!

ala haynes manual assembly is reverse of removal. Remember to connect the new connector on the stalk.

My green cruise control light lit up on the tachometer and not in top center like some clusters.
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