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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. my issue has returned, the ride has gone hard again. From what I understand the most likley culprit's a one or more of the struts.

I've been looking on ebay, there's quite a few options inc secondhand, which I'm not keen on. Does anyone have experience of these or any other aftermarket options. Could I mix old with new, aftermarket with original struts? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I've got one Chinese strut fitted and it works perfectly.
But if you're having trouble with more than one strut it could be control module that is the issue.
I'm not sure, pulling the fuse for the module temporarily softens it out, then the compressor shuts down. You can feel the ride gets harder, the car also drops about an inch all round. The height adjustment works, and you can still adjust the firmness. Who made you strut just out of interest, did you change it yourself? Cheers
 

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I had a problem with a clunking sound over bumps. After a tremendous amount of part changing and hair pulling I found it was the strut that was causing it.
Yes, I changed it myself, except I got a garage to remove the pinch-bolt-from-hell.
Others (like Martin) manage to do it without removing that bolt.
There are a few threads on here about how to remove and refit.
 

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Mine got secondhand strut(s) from a Conti GT on it just before I bought it, a quick ebay and it seems Phaeton stuff is cheaper :)
 

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I have a re-manufactured strut on one corner. If I were doing it again, I'd just buy a new VW strut. I'm suspicious that the damper on the re-manufactured unit is not 100%. Changing them is pretty easy, the control arms are actually attached to the upper bracket, not to the strut itself, the strut comes out without removing that bracket. Just make sure both sides of the car are on stands because otherwise you can't clear the lower control arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have a re-manufactured strut on one corner. If I were doing it again, I'd just buy a new VW strut. I'm suspicious that the damper on the re-manufactured unit is not 100%. Changing them is pretty easy, the control arms are actually attached to the upper bracket, not to the strut itself, the strut comes out without removing that bracket. Just make sure both sides of the car are on stands because otherwise you can't clear the lower control arm.
What makes you suspicious about them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
To me there below are the reasons for why your car's ride is harder. You need to cross check the following.
1) Tire Troubles
2) Some Suspension Issues
3) Axle Damage or Bending
4) Misfiring Engine
these are the basics to explore, thereafter we can extend the matter in detail.:)
When I pull the fuse for the air suspension out overnight the car raises about an inch, and rides much better. It also seems to be levelling up when you come to a stop, facing downhill for example in a way that it doesn't when things get bumpy again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Most of the struts I'm looking at on Ebay are made by Maxpeedingrods, most reviews seem good? I'm not sure though! I could try a secondhand one, but that's a bit of a lottery really.
 

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A good video showing replacement of the front left hand side air suspension strut (It's in German but still useful) The replacement unit is manufactured by Bilstein (OEM) and costs approx £1,500 in the UK
 

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Do not do it the way they show in the video. There's no need to disconnect the control arms, and you'll run into trouble with the pinch bolts. Simply remove the 3 bolts on top of the control arm bracket, remove the strut, and leave the bracket and control arms connected to the knuckle.

My re-manufactured strut came from Rebuild Mastertech. They do come with a lifetime warranty, and they were good when I swapped the first one they sent me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
DI
Do not do it the way they show in the video. There's no need to disconnect the control arms, and you'll run into trouble with the pinch bolts. Simply remove the 3 bolts on top of the control arm bracket, remove the strut, and leave the bracket and control arms connected to the knuckle.

My re-manufactured strut came from Rebuild Mastertech. They do come with a lifetime warranty, and they were good when I swapped the first one they sent me.
 

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The only thing you'll need that isn't already in your toolbox is the triple-square tool for the bolts at the top of the strut under the bonnet (under the plenum cover). Those are also single-use bolts, as is the one holding the bottom of the strut to the control arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The only thing you'll need that isn't already in your toolbox is the triple-square tool for the bolts at the top of the strut under the bonnet (under the plenum cover). Those are also single-use bolts, as is the one holding the bottom of the strut to the control arm.
What is that tool please, is it generic?
 
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