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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pictures Galore of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - Input welcome!!

I could not find any pictures of a teardown of a 02A and it is somewhat different than for a 020, so I have decided to post what I am doing so those who follow can see how to do it. However, I am flying by the seat of my pants as my Bentley manual does not cover this. I am hoping that all of you who do know something can watch over my shoulder and pipe up with advice or direction when needed. Tell me what needs to be done and where I need to pay particular attention to something. I will post pictures that will be labelled by number so that people can comment on things. I will post more pictures as I go.
The pictures to disassemble the transmission can be found
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=767717
I am doing a bearing replacement due to the fact that I ran my tranny low on oil and cooked the input shaft bearing. Since I did not know how much damage I did to the other bearings, I felt it best to replace them all. The bearings were not particularly expensive and the total cost I had to do this was about $300.00
I found that one of the gears in my 1st gear syncro hub had a half a tooth broken off. I was going to replace that too as VW told me that the cost of the gear was about 55.00. However, when it arrived I found that it was the wrong part. They had sent the lower synchro ring and I needed the syncro hub. The cost of that was about 450.00 and since it was only one small part of a tooth, I decided not to replace it.
The bearing numbers and the picture of the broken tooth are found in a different thread that I created on this forum.
The text appears below the picture and refers to the picture above. If there is a part within another part, I worked from the outside in, top to bottom. The picture of it in my hand should show it as it appears when removed directly from the shaft.

Picture 1 - Here are the bearings that I did not have to buy from VW. These include the differential bearings (bearing and race set), and the bearings and races for bottoms of the input shaft and the output shaft.
EDIT - That bearing race on the far left, LM12710 is NOT a bearing race used in this transmission. LM12749 IS the right number for the bearing, but you need both parts as it appears that the set is only available from VW. These are the bearings for the bottom of the input shaft. The right bearing race appears to be JLM12712B


Picture 2 - Here is the output shaft set up to pull. Note that the puller is below second gear. (Thanks to HGB for the assistance in telling me where the puller goes.)


Picture 3 - I heated the top sleeve, but it is important to note that this is not the only sleeve holding this together. There are sleeves behind the transmission gears too. Heat in a circular pattern, without overheating the sleeve and taking the temper out of it.


Picture 4 – I found that the puller required a lot of force to move all of these gears and the sleeves behind, even with the heat to the top sleeve. I turned the assemble on the side to get more leverage. What you are seeing in the picture is the part that came off first. There is still some pulling to do to get the rest of the gears off.


Picture 5 – Here is the stack, hopefully in the same order and orientation that they were in originally. If there is anything I should note about any component, or the direction it goes in, please feel free to post comments!


Picture 6 - The sleeve at the end of the shaft. Has this sleeve and bearing been replaced by a new sleeve bearing combination? The replace part I got to replace the bearing around this shaft appear different. I believe that the original was the FA G bearing that was a roller bearing. The new one appears to be a ball bearing. Anyone know anything about this?


Picture 7 – The thrust washer. On Broke’s excellent site http://www.BrokeVW.com he makes mention of the fact that some washers have an up and a down side. I am not sure if this is true of this washer or not. I guess I’ll get to that on reassembly. This is still disassembly!


Picture 8 – This should be 4th gear.


Picture 9 - The needle bearing behind 4th gear. I have it noted as a 29 x 40 x 24, if that helps anyone. Also, all my bearing cages seem to be broken. Is this normal?



Picture 10 – The sleeve between the 4th gear needle bearing and the shaft.



Picture 11 – The third to fourth synchro hub. Take particular note of the three locking pieces around the edge. If you don’t know to look for them, you will likely lose them.



Picture 12 – Third gear sync ring…I think.



Picture 13 – Third to fourth shifter thingy. (Probably has a more technical name than that…)


Picture 14 - Third gear sync ring. Is Picture 12 of the outer and this one the inner?



Picture 15. - This would be third gear.



Picture 16 - The bearing behind third gear. I have this noted asa 30.6 x 40 x 26


Picture 17 – The sleeve for third gear….(I am starting to see a pattern!)


Picture 18 – Another thrust washer. Again, these might have a top and a bottom.


Picture 19 - Second gear



Picture 20 – The bearing behind second gear. ( Hey, what happened to the pattern! Where is the sleeve between this bearing and the shaft? There is no sleeve...just the shaft. See pic 24…it contacts just above the retaining ring.) I have this bearing noted as 35 x 40 x 23.8



Picture 21 – This is labelled in ETKA as the “Inner sync ring” for first and second gears


Picture 22 – This is labelled as the “outer sync ring”



Picture 23 – This is labelled as the sync ring


Picture 24 – This is the shaft that remains. Note the retaining ring that would have to be removed to get at the first to second gear synchro hub. It is that top gear that is broken on mine, right next to one of those locking pieces. The part that is broken off is completely covered by the shift ring when the shift ring is in the position that you see it here.
I will post more as I make further progress. Please feel free to comment on any of the above and make any corrections, observations or add any detail that you feel is important. Any advice is welcome.

Modified by PASHAT at 8:41 AM 11-13-2006


Modified by PASHAT at 8:58 AM 11-14-2006
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (djsheijkdfj)

Darn. I forgot about the bandwith restrictions of the geocities site. The pics are there, but once they get loaded off the site a few times, the site shuts down for an hour or so. Any other place I can post them that people recommend and that will last? Once I know I will upload them and edit my original post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (djsheijkdfj)

Done. Thanks.
I welcome any comments on anything that I have done so far. I should have more pictures soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (stoned_elvis)

No I didn't use impex. The ones pictured are from a local bearing supplier. They cost about 80.00. Getting things shipped from the US can be quite slow.
 

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Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)

oh thought they came out to be $300. 80 bucks is good. what are you going to do about the needle bearings. any prices on them? or are they dealer only's?
what was the name of the company you orderd those bearings from? address? info?

thanks
try this link if you are looking for that broken item.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2879631

[


Modified by stoned_elvis at 6:13 AM 11-2-2006
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)

I have a question about installing the needle bearing cages. What should I do to prepare them. Oil them well? I am thinking that starting bearings while they are dry is probably not a good idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (stoned_elvis)

I should make it clear that the bearings that you see in picture one cost about 80.00, but there were a lot of other bearings that I had to get from the dealer. The cost of ALL of the bearings was about 325.00. I missed one in my original order so I am awaiting it before moving on.
 

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Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)

Quote, originally posted by PASHAT »
I have a question about installing the needle bearing cages. What should I do to prepare them. Oil them well? I am thinking that starting bearings while they are dry is probably not a good idea.

Everything should be super clean before install. I clean the parts in a parts washer full of kerosene with a brush, then they are rinsed in 2 seperate clean kerosene baths.
Everything gets a coating of oil on install, just have some oil on hand to get the parts good and wet with when installing them.
The gear needle bearings are split on the 020 to allow them to open and expand to get over splines and steps and so forth on the shaft as they are slid down....I would assume the 02A is very much the same.
As for not knowing how the things like thrust washers go back on.....didn't you take any pics or make any notes while tearing it down? Pull it off piece by piece and examine it closely while cleaning it looking for damage or wear or indications it has one side facing a particular way?

I'll have a look over the 02A papers and see if they make any notes on thrust washers being one way or the other and so on http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Broke
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Broke)

Okay. I have made some progress in getting the output shaft back together. You can look over my shoulder and make whatever comments you wish. I am open to criticism.
Text is BELOW the pictures.


Picture 25 Although you can clearly see the broken tooth in this picture, right next to the hole for one of the three locking pieces, it is actually a picture of how to get the synchronizing hub back together. Those three little locking pieces fell out and do you think I could get them to fit back in. I finally realized that the piece BEHIND the gear with the broken tooth has three deep grooves in that only line up if you turn the gear to get them aligned. I also took off the spring at the top to make putting it back together easier. You line up the slots as shown in the picture, note the location of the bottom spring by looking for the little end that stick out of one of the three slots, then you put the pieces in place, then slide the hub down over everything. You have to find the three recessed gears in the hub and put those ones over the locking pieces. When inserting the top spring make sure that you rotate it 120 degrees from the one on the bottom.



Picture 26. Sorry about the bad quality of this picture. Note the recessed gear.


Picture 27 – Back together with the locking pieces in place


Picture 28 – Next put on the lock ring. Slide it from the top. Use a new one!

Picture 29 – Put the sync ring back in, aligning it with the locking pieces


Picture 30 – Put the outer sync ring back into place


Picture 30a – Put the inner sync ring back in place. I found that this did not fit particularly tightly. Hopefully I am not missing something. Note that this fits over the outer sync ring and meshes with the sync ring shown in picture 29.


Picture 31 – Notice how second gear has openings on the bottom to line up with the sync rings. I have mistakenly noted that it lines up with the inner sync ring. These actually mesh with the OUTER sync ring.


Picture 32 – This should be the new bearing. However, I am actually holding up the wrong bag. Part number for the proper bearing for here is actually 02A 311 213 C. These do not come with an inner race as the bearings ride right on the shaft.
Edit - On rechecking, this IS the right part that I am showing. 02A 311 265 D is for the bearing behind 2nd gear. 02A 311 213 C is for behind first gear, which is a bearing that I did not replace and probably should. I would have to pull that broken sychro hub to get at the first gear bearing.



Picture 33 – The bearing in place

Picture 34 – I have oiled the bearing fairly thoroughly. However, I think I will likely be taking this off and dipping it in oil rather than pouring it on after the fact. With the gear covering this, oil might be slow to get in if you have not pre-lubed it.

Picture 35 – Second gear is replaced

Picture 36 – The thrust washer is replaced. I could not see that one side was up or down. It definitely had no bevel on it like in a 020.
Now, it was at this point that I found that I had not ordered the next bearing and am awaiting its arrival. I will likely start putting the differential back together and take picture of that, including setting the preloads if I am able to do so. Hope to be posting more soon. Once again….comment on anything you see.


Modified by PASHAT at 10:20 AM 11-4-2006


Modified by PASHAT at 8:54 PM 11-5-2006
 

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Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)

Quote, originally posted by PASHAT »
Once again….comment on anything you see.

That trans is FILTHY!!!

That poor German made needle bearing made the trip all the way here and was slid down onto grime

Also, my monitor isn't showing it very well, other than on the bearing race that was heated, but it was mentioned to me that the splines look blue as well for 4th gear. I could sort of see the blue on the 4th splines when comparing them to the splines for 5th in the last pic (and the 5th splines look damaged to me, like chevrons), but I couldn't see any blue on the other parts that were pointed out to me....at least not on my monitor.
It was also mentioned that all the running surfaces could use a sanding with 1500 to remove the burned on crap to give the bearings a surface to roll on instead of skidding over a bad surface.
The only thrust washer on the output shaft that I noticed was one side facing one way was the 1st one under 1st gear, but if you didn't strip it that far, it wouldn't be an issue.
The parts really need cleaned though, to be able to see any other damage or problems, plus dirt will kill a freshly rebuilt box.
Broke
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Broke)

Hi Broke:
I promise to clean things better. Although my work area is stained, I am trying to keep the tranny clean. Look! I washed the shells! I haven't gone so far that I cannot take things apart and clean them better. I appreciate your input. Thanks.
In the meantime, here is how I spent my day today:
Doin’ the Differential:



Picture 37 Okay, first thing to do is finish pulling off the diff bearings. Here is the puller I used. It worked and came off pretty easily.


Picture 38 – Put the shim back. I took this picture to show you which side the shim goes in. It goes in this side. (I hope no one tells me I am wrong about this. I did check carefully!)


Picture 39 – I like to measure things when I can. This shim measured.93mm in most places. In some places it measured .92 and in others .94. I checked and rechecked and re zeroed about 10 times, because VW does not have a listing for a shim this size. Their listings go up by .05 from .65mm to 1.25mm. I guess mine is just “special”!

Picture 40 – The new bearing race. It is a good idea, when you remove your bearings and races, to PUT THE OLD ONES AWAY before you open the new ones. I had a moment of panic when I found two bearing races on my bench and couldn’t remember which was the new one and which was the old one. Then I realized I had opened both new bearings and they were both new ones.

Picture 41 - All right. Call me a bad boy. This is not the best way to put in bearing races. However, I am still in the process of welding up my bearing press, so it was not ready to go when I was doing this job. If you are going to be an idiot like me and put in bearing races like this, remember that if you go a wee bit cockeyed you can easily damage the aluminum transmission case. This is a bad thing. It is also a bad thing to use a hammer on the new bearing race. I am actually using an OLD bearing race, (that I got out after I had my new ones seated) to install the new ones. I found that there was enough clearance at the top of the recess so that when fully seated, the old race did not get stuck. You can hear and feel when the bearing race is seated. I went around it carefully and gave it light taps with the hammer all the way around to ensure that is was seated. I then looked to make sure that it was seated. So, to make it clear, this picture is taken when the bearing race was close to fully seated, and I am hammering on an inverted OLD bearing race. Oh, and make sure that you put in the bearing bevel side UP!!!


Picture 42 – Ta Da!! Fully seated.


Picture 43 – Before doing the other housing, I decided that I better reinsert the magnet. I put some sealant on one side to hold it in place. It had to be removed when I cleaned the case halves.

Picture 44 - I am not getting any smarter as I progress. This was VERY tricky. Again, keeping the bearing even required going around with the punch and tapping gently on the back of an old bearing race, and inspecting things often to make sure that everything was aligned and the bearing was going in evenly. That being said, this was probably even dumber than what I did in picture 41.


Picture 45 – Visual inspection to ensure the bearing race is fully seated.


Picure 46 – The new bearing cones.


Picture 47 – I put the bearing on by hand, and then I inverted everything and tapped on a piece of metal on top of the shaft. Never pound directly on the shaft! However, the bearing quickly became cockeyed, going on unevenly so I had to start again.

Picture 48 – I then realized it was better to tap it on directly, with a rubber mallet.

Picture 49 - It is important to install bearings on BOTH sides of the differential.


Picture 50 - I started seeing little rubber bits on the top of the bearing, and realized that perhaps a rubber mallet was not ideal. I cleaned the bearing thoroughly to remove all little bits, and when back to using an old bearing to drive with.

Picture 51 – Notice that I have installed Volkswagen special tool “RAG” into the differential. This is because I need to ensure that both bearings turn, (not one bearing and the differential gears), when I do the bearing preload measurement. I guess I could have welded these parts together, but I wanted to maintain my full slip differential. It IS a family car, after all. If you don’t somehow lock these gears, there is a possibility that only one bearing will actually be turning and the other shaft will not be. The diff gears will move instead of the output flange shaft.
It is a good idea to remember to remove VW special Tool RAG after you do the preload test.


Picture 52 – Don’t forget to oil the bearings. I did this much more thoroughly than this picture shows. Also note that I used 10w30. This is because it was pretty cold in my unheated Canadian shop….the temp was about freezing. I felt that regular gear oil would be too thick to give an accurate measurement at that temperature. Be sure to oil both bearings.

Picture 53 – Install the bolts. You are likely supposed to install ALL of the tranny bolts, but I just did the ones around the differential. I felt that those on the inside were so far away that they would likely not be a factor in this test.


Picture 54 – After a gentle tightening of the bolts by hand, I torqued these to the proper torque setting to ensure my preload test would be accurate. I have also installed the output flange just into the shaft.


Picture 55 – Be sure to spin the flange by hand while watching the other flange drive to make sure that both are spinning.


Picture 56 – This is Volkswagen special tool “WTF?”. I understand that you can get another special tool from VW that does the tasks that this tool and VW special tool RAG does, all in one. If you get a price on the real VW tool let me know. I will sell you BOTH VW special tool “WTF?” and VW special tool “RAG” for one-half of whatever they would charge you.

Picture 57 - Time to measure the preload. I am using a MAC dial indicator worth about $300.00. I notice that Broke used a inch pound beam torque wrench. Mine is no better. In fact, its NOT actually mine. If I had 300.00 to invest in a MAC dial indicator, I would have bought another tranny!


Picture 58 - The ever helpful and knowledgeable Broke (Thanks again Broke!) gave me the specs in this thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2892666
He said 11-29 inch pounds. The needle is actually the orange line not the blue indicator line that I set to 30. It appears that I am just within spec at 28 lbs.
I did not measure to get the clearance for shims, as all the info I had was that if I used the same shim size that I had previously, I would likely be all right. It appears that I was lucky, but this was due to the fact that the only thing I was changing was the bearings.
Next stop, the output shaft. That might be a few more days, as I am still waiting for parts.
While I am waiting, feel free to comment or criticize anything I have done. Any pointers on what I did, or am going to do would be very appreciated.



Modified by PASHAT at 9:30 PM 11-4-2006
 

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Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)

Quote, originally posted by PASHAT »
I promise to clean things better. Although my work area is stained, I am trying to keep the tranny clean. Look! I washed the shells! I haven't gone so far that I cannot take things apart and clean them better. I appreciate your input. Thanks.

As the guy who taught me how to work on them said "Clean, clean, clean. Clean more."

Quote, originally posted by PASHAT »
Picture 39 – I like to measure things when I can. This shim measured.93mm in most places. In some places it measured .92 and in others .94. I checked and rechecked and re zeroed about 10 times, because VW does not have a listing for a shim this size. Their listings go up by .05 from .65mm to 1.25mm. I guess mine is just “special”!

It could be play in the measuring head on that caliper. I know the models I have of those vary a bit when operating them depending on pressure....I would venture a guess that the shim is a 0.95mm, but as your turning torque tests show, it doesn't matter, as you are in spec. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Quote, originally posted by PASHAT »
Picture 53 – Install the bolts. You are likely supposed to install ALL of the tranny bolts, but I just did the ones around the differential. I felt that those on the inside were so far away that they would likely not be a factor in this test.

In that other thread, it is in that post I did.... 5 bolts, 18 ft-lbs....but more won't hurt. They just want the case pulled together tight.

Quote, originally posted by PASHAT »

Picture 56 – This is Volkswagen special tool “WTF?”. I understand that you can get another special tool from VW that does the tasks that this tool and VW special tool RAG does, all in one. If you get a price on the real VW tool let me know. I will sell you BOTH VW special tool “WTF?” and VW special tool “RAG” for one-half of whatever they would charge you.

Talking to Vdubs, he mentioned you could have left the flange off, and simply threaded in an 8mm bolt into the stub axle hole. A case bolt or the flange bolt itself could have been used. Tighten it up until it bottoms out (use a socket or washers as a spacer to make it bottom out sooner) then use it to turn the rag-locked diff.

Quote, originally posted by PASHAT »
Picture 57 - Time to measure the preload. I am using a MAC dial indicator worth about $300.00. I notice that Broke used a inch pound beam torque wrench. Mine is no better. In fact, its NOT actually mine. If I had 300.00 to invest in a MAC dial indicator, I would have bought another tranny!

That is a far nicer unit than what I use. Mine is a used unit I got for $60 (?) on eBay....Vdubs has a very nice snap-off unit something like the one you are using that I wanted. I had to ship it off to him, and I bet the muppet never even has used it...that's OK, at the rate I build trans, I wouldn't have used it either

Looks like the diff preload turned out OK http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Broke
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Broke)

Quote, originally posted by Broke »
Talking to Vdubs, he mentioned you could have left the flange off, and simply threaded in an 8mm bolt into the stub axle hole. A case bolt or the flange bolt itself could have been used. Tighten it up until it bottoms out (use a socket or washers as a spacer to make it bottom out sooner) then use it to turn the rag-locked diff.

I don't think there is a place to attach an 8mm bolt on my output splines. They are are different on this passat then on most VWs. (You don't compress the flanges and remove a retaining clip and the clips themselves are more like a bent piece of wire than a nice square retaining ring). When I look through the diff holes, I can see right though and the hole is about an inch wide all the way from one side right through to the other. I could drop an 8mm bolt right through the hole. I will try to get a picture to show this. Maybe I am missing something.



Modified by PASHAT at 7:59 AM 11-10-2006
 

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Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)

Quote, originally posted by PASHAT »

I don't think there is a place to attach an 8mm bolt on my output splines. They are are different on this passat then on most VWs. (You don't compress the flanges and remove a retaining clip and the clips themselves are more like a bent piece of wire than a nice square retaining ring). When I look through the diff holes, I can see right though and the hole is about an inch wide all the way from one side right through to the other. I could drop an 8mm bolt right through the hole. I will try to get a picture to show this. Maybe I am missing something.

Nah, looking at the factory papers again, I see some of the trans had springs behind the flanges, and those are secured with a bolt in the center of the flange. Some flanges did not have springs behind them, and those are secured with a clip.
Scratch that advice then of turning the diff using a bolt

He must have been thinking of the other flange style when he suggested it. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Broke
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (Broke)

I am taking the day off, since I am awaiting parts. I sid promise to post a picture showing the output shaft slines on the differential. Here is looking in on VW Special Tool RAG:


Picture 59 - The output splines on the diff:
However, I went and looked the gears over carefully and did not see, to my untrained eye, any blueing. The gears are not all the same colour, but none appear to have any strange colouring. Most of my driving is highway, and the gears that I was showing were of first to fourth. I wouldn't be using them enough to heat those ones up, I don't think. In any event, here is a picture of the stack of gears, taken outside, without a flash. Some of those previous pictures were not taken in ideal conditions. I have included 5th gear in this picture. It still has some of VW special tool RAG on it, as I needed to lock it to remove the bolts.


Picture 60 - The entire gear stack
I also neglected to mention that VW special tool "WTF?" is welded together. The nut isn't just sitting there loose!
 

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Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)

with changing the bearings on the input, output and diff bearings. what are you guys doinging for back lash. how critical is it on these transmissions. I have a pdf covering this topic. I need to figure out how to post it.
 

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Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (stoned_elvis)

Quote, originally posted by stoned_elvis »
with changing the bearings on the input, output and diff bearings. what are you guys doinging for back lash. how critical is it on these transmissions. I have a pdf covering this topic. I need to figure out how to post it.

Quote, originally posted by PASHAT »
Broke (Thanks again Broke!) gave me the specs in this thread:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2892666

It is pretty critical to the bearing life. If swapping major parts, you want to check it and adjust it. If just doing bearing replacement, it is likely the shims you remove will work fine.
Broke
 
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