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Re: (TheRealEddie)

The Single Most Valuable Thread in the Manual Transmission Forum http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
X2 needs a Sticky
 

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Re: (PASHAT)

I was once again looking over the post and noticed the step below. In this step per Bentley Manual it is advised to use two 1.20 mm filler gauges to adjust the gap properly. Additional info is that the 5th gear shift fork has different thickness shift segments. Do not get these mixed up during disassembly and assembly. Image is found on page 35.23 of the corrado Bentley. Others may varied.
Quote, originally posted by PASHAT »


Picture 220 – Put the shifter hub for 5th on and press it firmly into place. Tighten the bolt that holds the shifter mechanism to the little C shaped piece. 29 foot pounds or 18?

Picture 221 – Broke says that the clearance between the hub and the gear should not exceed .002. (Broke is King!)
 

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Re: (vwscream)

Quote, originally posted by vwscream »
I was once again looking over the post and noticed the step below. In this step per Bentley Manual it is advised to use two 1.20 mm filler gauges to adjust the gap properly. Additional info is that the 5th gear shift fork has different thickness shift segments. Do not get these mixed up during disassembly and assembly. Image is found on page 35.23 of the corrado Bentley. Others may varied.

I don't see that info in the papers I have, but it covers the 02A in the Passat, is there any chance you can snap a pic of that section of the Bentley and email it to me or post it here? I think I know the parts you mean but would like to make sure. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Looking at the quoted text from PASHAT, it looks like I either gave wrong info, or it was typed out wrong when posted.
The spec of 0.002 is not correct.
The papers I have state:
"It must NOT be possible to slide a 0.2mm feeler gauge between locking collar and gear wheel"
Basically, the papers state to loosen the single clamping bolt, press the collar down onto 5th gear, tighten the clamping bolt to 18 ft-lbs, then check the gap between the gear and collar, and it should be less than a 0.2mm gap there.
 

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Re: (Broke)


Each one has different thickness measurement so do not mix them up. Putting the support in the incorrect location can possibly make the sleeve not operate smooth.



Modified by vwscream at 11:30 AM 6-17-2009
 

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Re: (vwscream)

How strange... the papers I have are VW factory papers, the ones Bentley gets and publishes, but the papers are for Passat, 1995-1997 and covers the 02A on the 4-cyl and VR6 models.
Reading your Bentley (I sold my Corrado Bentley, not thinking I'd need it doing just 020 work
) it says trans built up to May 3rd, 2000 are 30 ft-lbs, my papers say 59 ft-lbs (they actually say 80Nm only, no ft-lbs or any of that, there is no Americanized info in it), and my papers for the 95-97 models gives info on the washers which your Bentley says wasn't used until after May 4th, 2000

Specifically, these papers cover codes CCM, CHA, CNL, CHU, CRU, and CTN codes, in the 95-97 Passats with the VR6, 1.9TDI, and 2.0L engines.

Here is the part about the segments, and how to ID them and the measurements on them...

Thanks for posting the pic http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
This is something I'll dig into more when I actually start doing 02A work... for now, I'm swamped with 020 stuff



Modified by Broke at 2:55 PM 6-17-2009
 

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Re: (Broke)


up to transmission build date 03 05 0 = May 3rd 1990
The bolt and washer been changed upgraded to no loctite needed. I run into the problem when using older G60 input shaft with VR6 Pinion. Assembled my self a Frankenstein Transmission using old spare parts from three other units.
from transmission build date 04 05 0 = May 5th 1990
Later on the 5th gear hub was upgraded to use catches. This caused me problems too. Parts supplier sent me the new syncro for the catch hub even that invoice showed the old part # and I was still using the older set up. Ended up finding the hub and sleeve for the 3 catch 5th gear in my parts box and ordered up new catches.
The 02A and 02J are similar and do use the newer 5th gear hub sleeve set up.
 

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Re: Pictures of Full 02A Bearing Replacement - You can help!! (PASHAT)

For those who do not feel that heating the case is an option.
Quote, originally posted by PASHAT »
Here is todays photo shoot, so far:


Picture 118 - I heated the back side of the reverse bearing holder with a torch to heat it up.



Picture 119 - I applied something cold to the bearing to cool it off. This, for those of you who haven’t seen it, is snow. It is basically just frozen water but is somehow different from ice. I could have used either snow or ice, as there is plenty outside my shop. Now, there is little bits of snow on my work table. Those bits will still be there when I go out later on.
Hence my rush to get this done.

I tried all sorts of things to get this bearing out. I tried using vice grips, after I heated it, but they couldn’t grab the wee bit that was sticking out. It appears to be a bit rounded. Then I thought of a bearing separator that I could wedge in, but the bearing could not be accessed this way by the parts of the case that stick up higher than it. I also tried to “slam” it, which Old Man Dubsy told me was more of a firm planting on the wooden table from a few inches up. It did not work. Perhaps the case needed to be hotter.
Finally I tried a chisel, which was a mistake. The bearing is actually surrounded by a lip in the case. NO WAY to get a chisel in there. The gap between the bearing and the case is recessed. See later pictures. All I did was bang up the case. No real harm done, but I had to make sure that no bits of aluminum were pushed into the exposed seat for the bearing.
I was going to try to thread a bolt into the bearing race at the bottom where it narrows, but then I thought of my cheap 12.00 puller. Surely that wouldn’t work……

Picture 120 – Wrong – O! With a little modification this had potential. I re-heated the case. (Now, why would it have cooled off? The temp was only -5 C……..You can talk in Celsius, can’t you)

Picture 121 – Success. The case is on its side so that I can heat on one side and pull on the other.

Picture 122 – The damage I did with the chisel method. What did someone say about not being able to expect perfection on your first tranny rebuild. Also note the large hole in the case above the reverse bearing hole. This is the place where the bearing for the input shaft should go. It might look like there is a shoulder on the bottom, but the hole actually gets bigger there. There is nothing to prevent the bearing from being pushed too deep, I don’t think. Since this bearings placement will have an effect on preload of the input shaft, I would like to get this right. Should I just press it in flush? Which side should I press from?

Picture 123 – I started the bearing by hand.

Picture 124 - I used a mallet and a piece of wood to drive this. The contact surface of the bearing race is very small, so I did not use the old bearing at this point. I was not sure about using heat to assist here. Seems to me that if this got too hot it might damage the plastic needle bearing sleeve.

Picture 125 – I then made sure that this bearing was seated. I had to line the old bearing race up carefully so as to make sure that it was pushing only on the edges of the new one. I was concerned that if it slid over the force would damage the needle bearings or their plastic carrier.
With some assistance on the procedures to get the input shaft done, I will continue to make progress.
Thanks to so many for all the assistance so far. It has been very appreciated. I welcome all comments and also all criticism. I don’t want to post something that is wrong for others to see, so correct me if I make an error.
Modified by PASHAT at 8:09 PM 11-11-2006

I could not find a way to pull the bearing out from the case. Some DIY have you using a puller but in my case there was no lip that you can grab on to. Here is a way I found that worked using a plug and loctite.
Use a screw driver to pull out the needle cages. Than make a plug that fits snug into the race with thread in the center for your puller.

Clean the surface and use loctite. Let it set for 24hrs. 3hrs will do at 70 degrees but I left it alone till the next night. Here is a pic after I pulled the race out.

The puller I used was from harbor freight $12. Its also the one that you modify the arms so you can remove the pinion race.

Picture of when the bearing moved.

Here is the bearing in question.
 

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When you did this was it hard to get to the reverse gear set up? i got a mk3 golf and my reverse is shot. i plan on dropping the transmission and fixing reverse only because all other gears shift into good. I just want to replace the reverse set up. can you help please?!
 

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When you did this was it hard to get to the reverse gear set up? i got a mk3 golf and my reverse is shot. i plan on dropping the transmission and fixing reverse only because all other gears shift into good. I just want to replace the reverse set up. can you help please?!
You sir have an 020 transmission, not a 02A. I suggest you follow Brian's step-by-step teardown here: http://www.brokevw.com/teardown.html
 
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