|Quote, originally posted by PASHAT »|
Picture 220 – Put the shifter hub for 5th on and press it firmly into place. Tighten the bolt that holds the shifter mechanism to the little C shaped piece. 29 foot pounds or 18?
Picture 221 – Broke says that the clearance between the hub and the gear should not exceed .002. (Broke is King!)
|Quote, originally posted by vwscream »|
|I was once again looking over the post and noticed the step below. In this step per Bentley Manual it is advised to use two 1.20 mm filler gauges to adjust the gap properly. Additional info is that the 5th gear shift fork has different thickness shift segments. Do not get these mixed up during disassembly and assembly. Image is found on page 35.23 of the corrado Bentley. Others may varied. |
|Quote, originally posted by PASHAT »|
|Here is todays photo shoot, so far:|
Picture 118 - I heated the back side of the reverse bearing holder with a torch to heat it up.
Picture 119 - I applied something cold to the bearing to cool it off. This, for those of you who haven’t seen it, is snow. It is basically just frozen water but is somehow different from ice. I could have used either snow or ice, as there is plenty outside my shop. Now, there is little bits of snow on my work table. Those bits will still be there when I go out later on.
Hence my rush to get this done.
I tried all sorts of things to get this bearing out. I tried using vice grips, after I heated it, but they couldn’t grab the wee bit that was sticking out. It appears to be a bit rounded. Then I thought of a bearing separator that I could wedge in, but the bearing could not be accessed this way by the parts of the case that stick up higher than it. I also tried to “slam” it, which Old Man Dubsy told me was more of a firm planting on the wooden table from a few inches up. It did not work. Perhaps the case needed to be hotter.
Finally I tried a chisel, which was a mistake. The bearing is actually surrounded by a lip in the case. NO WAY to get a chisel in there. The gap between the bearing and the case is recessed. See later pictures. All I did was bang up the case. No real harm done, but I had to make sure that no bits of aluminum were pushed into the exposed seat for the bearing.
I was going to try to thread a bolt into the bearing race at the bottom where it narrows, but then I thought of my cheap 12.00 puller. Surely that wouldn’t work……
Picture 120 – Wrong – O! With a little modification this had potential. I re-heated the case. (Now, why would it have cooled off? The temp was only -5 C……..You can talk in Celsius, can’t you)
Picture 121 – Success. The case is on its side so that I can heat on one side and pull on the other.
Picture 122 – The damage I did with the chisel method. What did someone say about not being able to expect perfection on your first tranny rebuild. Also note the large hole in the case above the reverse bearing hole. This is the place where the bearing for the input shaft should go. It might look like there is a shoulder on the bottom, but the hole actually gets bigger there. There is nothing to prevent the bearing from being pushed too deep, I don’t think. Since this bearings placement will have an effect on preload of the input shaft, I would like to get this right. Should I just press it in flush? Which side should I press from?
Picture 123 – I started the bearing by hand.
Picture 124 - I used a mallet and a piece of wood to drive this. The contact surface of the bearing race is very small, so I did not use the old bearing at this point. I was not sure about using heat to assist here. Seems to me that if this got too hot it might damage the plastic needle bearing sleeve.
Picture 125 – I then made sure that this bearing was seated. I had to line the old bearing race up carefully so as to make sure that it was pushing only on the edges of the new one. I was concerned that if it slid over the force would damage the needle bearings or their plastic carrier.
With some assistance on the procedures to get the input shaft done, I will continue to make progress.
Thanks to so many for all the assistance so far. It has been very appreciated. I welcome all comments and also all criticism. I don’t want to post something that is wrong for others to see, so correct me if I make an error.
Modified by PASHAT at 8:09 PM 11-11-2006
You sir have an 020 transmission, not a 02A. I suggest you follow Brian's step-by-step teardown here: http://www.brokevw.com/teardown.htmlWhen you did this was it hard to get to the reverse gear set up? i got a mk3 golf and my reverse is shot. i plan on dropping the transmission and fixing reverse only because all other gears shift into good. I just want to replace the reverse set up. can you help please?!