Here's my writeup on my install of the Pioneer AVIC-Z2 and Pioneer CD-IB100II iPod module into my 2007 Jetta. It is by no means meant to be a comprehensive DIY dcument. Rather, it's more of a "hey if I can do it, you can do it!" document, with the hopes of passing along a few hints if someone attempts a similar install. I gained invaluable knowledge from others on the Vortex forums and the writers of some of the well-known DIY guides. Please see the established DIY guides on trim removal, precautions, tools, etc etc.
I mention some specialized tools below, but other than that, I used a cheap crimping tool, many red barrel connectors and some bell-shaped butt connectors. Miscellaneous helpful items include: small cable ties, Velcro straps and/or adhesive pads. This is not just for neatness...no one's going to see it when you're done. This is to keep the wires untangled, which will make the install go more easily, and save some of your sanity...especially if you have to troubleshoot. Also, you may look dorky with it on, but a headband-mounted light is great when you need to see into some dark space and you need your hands free. The newer LED-based ones last many hours on a set of batteries.
In my steps below, I've tried to link the descriptive text with the picture by putting the picture title in parentheses. I just didn't have the energy to type numbers onto the pictures or rename them all. Click on the thumbnails to expand them. Using thumbnails allows lower bandwidth users to only view what they want to view, and improves readability of the page in your browser.
Feel free to post questions here in this thread. In case someone in the future needs some guidance on a similar install, he or she will have more information to use. Let's keep the community alive!
So, on with the show.
1. Many thanks to Gary Mazur and Peripheral Electronics! What you're looking at is a wiring interface for the MkV, specifically designed to output the signals that Nav systems use (VSS, Illumination signal wire, Parking Break signal, etc.) It also handles basic power needs and has 8 leads for the standard 4 speaker zone setup (FL, FR, RL, RR). And yes it's running what is techincally BETA code. It interfaces with the CAN-BUS via the wiring harness and (I assume) interprets and translates these digital signals into analog signals via a microcontroller. It also interfaces perfectly with the PESWICAN and PESWIPS mentioned below. This product is soon to be released and bears the model name VWAH. (img_1081)
2. Here are the components that are being installed. Some things are obvious, the modules used for steering control interface are there too. I've been advised by Mr Mazur that they are more properly referred to as model names PESWICAN and PESWIPS. Also note the Nesco 5 piece trim tool removal set. Something like this is invaluable. And if you wondered what kind of tools the Teletubbies might use, well, now you know. The dash kit is the American International kit model VW-K1017. Optional equipment: Peet's Espresso Forte blend. Well, maybe optional for you. (img_1098)
3. Even on the Crutchfield site, there is not a good back shot of the AVIC-Z2. Well here's one just in case you were curious. When preparing your install it almost feels like you can never have enough intel. (img_1102)
4. Lest we forget: the Metra 40-EU55 antenna adapter. You'll notice the time-honored Motorola male plug on one end and the Fakra connector on the other. Key point: that 12v lead is needed if you have the in-glass diversity antenna system. That system has a relatively low signal output and it needs to be amplified. Check your vehicle, Bentley docs, etc to confirm what system you have. Yes you'll lose the benefit of the diversity system since that magic has to be done by the radio itself. This connector will only fit one of the two antenna feeds that the OEM head unit uses. Just leave the other one disconnected. (img_1109)
5. I used the many guides out there to get started plunging into the dash. I mainly went by the excellent writeup done by WaHooligan82 for his OEM Nav install ( http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3121070 ). Others have mentioned using credit cards (the expired ones, folks!) as trim removal tools and I have to agree this method is a good one. Here I'm using a couple of cards to keep the clips from popping back into place while I continue circle and lift the trim with the Teletubbie tool. (img_1112-1)
6. You may have seen a post of mine, asking for help in removing the top dual vent console piece. Well as opposed to others here, mine was a royal b^tch to remove. Dunno why. And here's what I get for venturing into the dark places where end customers are not meant to tread. Luckily after all was completed, there don't seem to be any obvious ill effects. Still, a disappointment. (img_1116)
7. Surprisingly sparse in there, eh? (img_1119)
8. If you use the AI dash mounting kit, you'll notice that after fitting the mounting ears to the faceplate, the angled brackets on the ends don't leave you much room when it comes to the depth of the head unit. After checking as many combinations as I could do I finally confirmed my belief that those had to go. (img_1122)
9. Here you see the work over at the Jade tree plan--er I mean workbench, where I removed the angled backstops from the ear plates. (img_1123)
10. This is one of those moments where you place palm squarely into forehead to get that classic smacking sound. Pioneer made sure to include what are probably some of the shortest hardware screws out there. At 5x6 mm (I don't know the metric thread specification) I was ready to bike down to the hardware store to get the same screw with at least enough length to get through the mounting ears. (img_1126)
11. But it actually seemed sturdy enough with only one screw per side (only that location was thin enough to use the supplied mounting screws). This is probably not the best way to do this so I recommend you head to your local hardware and pick up some of these that are at least 12mm or so...I used the oval-shaped spacers on the AI kit to firm up the contact between the rmounting ears. I might add another screw or two later when I add more modules to the Pioneer (img_1127).
12. Get a wire stripper like this one, with the auto-sizing and grasping assembly. Believe me, it will save you much grief. (img_1128)
13. Don't forget to attach that wire to some 12v source. Here I've used the Accessory power feed, so that it only gets power when the key is in the Acc position or the car is running. Again, if you don't have a diversity antenna system in your car, you may not need an amplified antenna adapter. (img_1129)
14. I added a small cable tie to the antenna adapter a couple inches out from where the amplifier barrel is. This is to serve as a strain relief. I just didn't like the look of how it joined at the barrel; I knew it would be jostled and pushed in the dash during the install, so better safe than sorry. (img_1130)
15. Much crimping later, I decided to fire up the system to make sure things were working. Looks good so far (img_1132)
16. Heck, even that iPod adapter module works. This is where I worry..when things start going right.
![]()
(img_1134-1)
17. Another tool that you will definitely want. This is from the Spec Tools Ratcheting Set SPK4042. It wasn't cheap but I swear after fighting the car all day, when this one screw came out so easily, it was all worth it. This is the small piece of lower center panel trim just above the "non-ashtray" storage area. You need to remove this if you want to remove the glovebox. (img_1135-1)
18. Speaking of gloveboxes, you remember that horror story where that poor guy had something in his glovebox fall into the gaping hole at the back, screwing up his AC blower? Well I guess at one point, VW decided to put a plastic piece of trim on the back of the glovebox manual/documentation shelf. It just sort of clips on, straddling the back of the glovebox wall. Still though, let's take advantage of that opening and run the iPod interface cable through there. Just need to make a small notch and sand it down a bit to give us a bit of flexibility in maneuvering the cable. (img_1136)
19. And there it is, looking wounded as it slumps into the footwell. This is one of those moments where you look at this and the pile of trim pieces piled in the back seat, and you think...what the [email protected]$# am I doing?! But press on, you have to put it all back together anyway. Might as well have a nice system when you're done. The OEM radio sits on the floor mat wondering what it did to deserve all this. (img_1138-1)
20. Sorry this picture is blown-out, it was hard to get the lighting right in that dark space. There's the modified backing trim, and the iPod module cable leads from there, over some of the structural metal of the dash, and into the center of the dash area. No worries: that metal is nicely rolled at the edges so it won't slash your cable to bits. From this angle, it might appear that the notch I made is an inch or so long and that the cable is pulled all the way into the notch. But the hole was just a small square, perhaps a bit more than 1/4" on a side. (img_1141)
21. Hate to go commercial here, but remember to always use Velcro® Brand for all your hook and fastener needs. (img_1142)
22. There's the iPod module, attached with Velcro to the back wall. This close up, there is an acute lack of scale, but suffice to say that whole area isn't very big. The large cable is the Pioneer IP-BUS cable that leads back to the main head unit. The iPod module also needs 12v power and ground, which you can see there. Be sure to put some secure backing (I used remaining "fuzzy" Velcro strips) under the module so that it won't wobble or rattle against the back wall. (img_1144)
22b. IMPORTANT NOTE: before you shove (carefully) all the wiring back into the dash and mount the head unit, take the GPS antenna lead (if you plan to mount it on the dash) and feed it, connector first, through the top vent piece (you can see this piece in image #4 in the WaHooligan82 writeup mentioned above. It is the panel laying just underneath the dash-top vent screen). Then connect it to the antenna jack on the head unit. You may want to bundle it together with other parts of the wiring to keep the strain off the lead so that it doesn't get disconnected. The reason is that the supplied Pioneer GPS "puck" antenna is just large enough to NOT fit through the top vent opening. That is, the piece of trim removed just after the vent screen as you are opening up the dash. I don't recall having to feed it through any other trim pieces, but just eyeball it when you are closing up. You'll be a Sad Panda if you are almost ready to finish and find that puck antenna won't go through the vent opening.
23. So everything is more or less reassembled and we get to the top vent screen trim that needs to be put back in place. Like many others, I decided to mount the GPS antenna on the dash. It's a fairly small antenna and lends itself so easily to this cable run where it quickly disappears back down the diffuser air vent. A quick but gentle filing down of the edge will give just enough room for the coax cable, but not so much that it will move around too much. (img_1145)
24. I wasn't 100% sure about the GPS reception, though, so I only used a small strip of Velcro for mounting in case I needed to remove it. I haven't pulled the lead snug since I will be removing that all again sometime in the near future. Ideally, it would be great to chop several feet out of that GPS coax and recrimp a new connector. Would save some valuable space inside the dash. (img_1147)
25. And here's what it looks like. You can see the trim wasn't 100% happy about going back into place, and the center top of the AI kit appears to be sagging a little bit. Not as bad as the Metra kits are known to do, though. Or is it due to the lack of the plastic tabs, which I broke in my fight against the evil sword-in-the-stone vent removal? I will be going back into the nether regions in the dash to run the bits for the backup/rear view camera and the Sirius module. So maybe I can improve how things fit back into place. All in all, though, not too shabby. (img_1146)
Thanks for reading. This is still a work in progress but I just couldn't wait to get something going! I don't have any decent pics of the AVIC-Z2 in action, but so far it seems great. For now, the microphone is clipped on the dash over the steering wheel and the cable is not properly installed, just running up through the bottom of the dash trim. I want to try some different locations in the cabin to see which works best. Many people seem to like to mount it near the sunglasses storage box, so I'll probably do that. Not sure I'm looking forward to getting up in there, though.
For the steering wheel controls, I only mapped three: Volume up, down and Mute. But even these three alone are worth the install, IMO. I don't like the idea of using the right-side controls for track incrementing, since they also affect what's on the MFD. Holy grail: if someone can make a context-sensitive steering wheel adapter.
All the signals from the Peripheral Electronics interface are working fine, and the sound from the Pioneer system is very good. Even though I'm using the stock speakers and no external amp, there is a marked difference in the sound quality between this head unit and the OEM head unit. In particular, the bass isn't muddy, boomy and indistinct. With the OEM stereo, I felt like the Bass control knob either made the music sound anemic, or just boomy with no real definition. The Pioneer has two user-customizable EQ presets done via a 3-band parametric equalizer. It also has some factory presets, most of which are annoying.
Coming soonish: putting the mic in properly, the Sirius module install, including IP-BUS cable run from dash to trunk (!) and eventually, the Bluetooth module install.
I mention some specialized tools below, but other than that, I used a cheap crimping tool, many red barrel connectors and some bell-shaped butt connectors. Miscellaneous helpful items include: small cable ties, Velcro straps and/or adhesive pads. This is not just for neatness...no one's going to see it when you're done. This is to keep the wires untangled, which will make the install go more easily, and save some of your sanity...especially if you have to troubleshoot. Also, you may look dorky with it on, but a headband-mounted light is great when you need to see into some dark space and you need your hands free. The newer LED-based ones last many hours on a set of batteries.
In my steps below, I've tried to link the descriptive text with the picture by putting the picture title in parentheses. I just didn't have the energy to type numbers onto the pictures or rename them all. Click on the thumbnails to expand them. Using thumbnails allows lower bandwidth users to only view what they want to view, and improves readability of the page in your browser.
Feel free to post questions here in this thread. In case someone in the future needs some guidance on a similar install, he or she will have more information to use. Let's keep the community alive!
So, on with the show.
1. Many thanks to Gary Mazur and Peripheral Electronics! What you're looking at is a wiring interface for the MkV, specifically designed to output the signals that Nav systems use (VSS, Illumination signal wire, Parking Break signal, etc.) It also handles basic power needs and has 8 leads for the standard 4 speaker zone setup (FL, FR, RL, RR). And yes it's running what is techincally BETA code. It interfaces with the CAN-BUS via the wiring harness and (I assume) interprets and translates these digital signals into analog signals via a microcontroller. It also interfaces perfectly with the PESWICAN and PESWIPS mentioned below. This product is soon to be released and bears the model name VWAH. (img_1081)
2. Here are the components that are being installed. Some things are obvious, the modules used for steering control interface are there too. I've been advised by Mr Mazur that they are more properly referred to as model names PESWICAN and PESWIPS. Also note the Nesco 5 piece trim tool removal set. Something like this is invaluable. And if you wondered what kind of tools the Teletubbies might use, well, now you know. The dash kit is the American International kit model VW-K1017. Optional equipment: Peet's Espresso Forte blend. Well, maybe optional for you. (img_1098)
3. Even on the Crutchfield site, there is not a good back shot of the AVIC-Z2. Well here's one just in case you were curious. When preparing your install it almost feels like you can never have enough intel. (img_1102)
4. Lest we forget: the Metra 40-EU55 antenna adapter. You'll notice the time-honored Motorola male plug on one end and the Fakra connector on the other. Key point: that 12v lead is needed if you have the in-glass diversity antenna system. That system has a relatively low signal output and it needs to be amplified. Check your vehicle, Bentley docs, etc to confirm what system you have. Yes you'll lose the benefit of the diversity system since that magic has to be done by the radio itself. This connector will only fit one of the two antenna feeds that the OEM head unit uses. Just leave the other one disconnected. (img_1109)
5. I used the many guides out there to get started plunging into the dash. I mainly went by the excellent writeup done by WaHooligan82 for his OEM Nav install ( http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3121070 ). Others have mentioned using credit cards (the expired ones, folks!) as trim removal tools and I have to agree this method is a good one. Here I'm using a couple of cards to keep the clips from popping back into place while I continue circle and lift the trim with the Teletubbie tool. (img_1112-1)
6. You may have seen a post of mine, asking for help in removing the top dual vent console piece. Well as opposed to others here, mine was a royal b^tch to remove. Dunno why. And here's what I get for venturing into the dark places where end customers are not meant to tread. Luckily after all was completed, there don't seem to be any obvious ill effects. Still, a disappointment. (img_1116)
7. Surprisingly sparse in there, eh? (img_1119)
8. If you use the AI dash mounting kit, you'll notice that after fitting the mounting ears to the faceplate, the angled brackets on the ends don't leave you much room when it comes to the depth of the head unit. After checking as many combinations as I could do I finally confirmed my belief that those had to go. (img_1122)
9. Here you see the work over at the Jade tree plan--er I mean workbench, where I removed the angled backstops from the ear plates. (img_1123)
10. This is one of those moments where you place palm squarely into forehead to get that classic smacking sound. Pioneer made sure to include what are probably some of the shortest hardware screws out there. At 5x6 mm (I don't know the metric thread specification) I was ready to bike down to the hardware store to get the same screw with at least enough length to get through the mounting ears. (img_1126)
11. But it actually seemed sturdy enough with only one screw per side (only that location was thin enough to use the supplied mounting screws). This is probably not the best way to do this so I recommend you head to your local hardware and pick up some of these that are at least 12mm or so...I used the oval-shaped spacers on the AI kit to firm up the contact between the rmounting ears. I might add another screw or two later when I add more modules to the Pioneer (img_1127).
12. Get a wire stripper like this one, with the auto-sizing and grasping assembly. Believe me, it will save you much grief. (img_1128)
13. Don't forget to attach that wire to some 12v source. Here I've used the Accessory power feed, so that it only gets power when the key is in the Acc position or the car is running. Again, if you don't have a diversity antenna system in your car, you may not need an amplified antenna adapter. (img_1129)
14. I added a small cable tie to the antenna adapter a couple inches out from where the amplifier barrel is. This is to serve as a strain relief. I just didn't like the look of how it joined at the barrel; I knew it would be jostled and pushed in the dash during the install, so better safe than sorry. (img_1130)
15. Much crimping later, I decided to fire up the system to make sure things were working. Looks good so far (img_1132)
16. Heck, even that iPod adapter module works. This is where I worry..when things start going right.
17. Another tool that you will definitely want. This is from the Spec Tools Ratcheting Set SPK4042. It wasn't cheap but I swear after fighting the car all day, when this one screw came out so easily, it was all worth it. This is the small piece of lower center panel trim just above the "non-ashtray" storage area. You need to remove this if you want to remove the glovebox. (img_1135-1)
18. Speaking of gloveboxes, you remember that horror story where that poor guy had something in his glovebox fall into the gaping hole at the back, screwing up his AC blower? Well I guess at one point, VW decided to put a plastic piece of trim on the back of the glovebox manual/documentation shelf. It just sort of clips on, straddling the back of the glovebox wall. Still though, let's take advantage of that opening and run the iPod interface cable through there. Just need to make a small notch and sand it down a bit to give us a bit of flexibility in maneuvering the cable. (img_1136)
19. And there it is, looking wounded as it slumps into the footwell. This is one of those moments where you look at this and the pile of trim pieces piled in the back seat, and you think...what the [email protected]$# am I doing?! But press on, you have to put it all back together anyway. Might as well have a nice system when you're done. The OEM radio sits on the floor mat wondering what it did to deserve all this. (img_1138-1)
20. Sorry this picture is blown-out, it was hard to get the lighting right in that dark space. There's the modified backing trim, and the iPod module cable leads from there, over some of the structural metal of the dash, and into the center of the dash area. No worries: that metal is nicely rolled at the edges so it won't slash your cable to bits. From this angle, it might appear that the notch I made is an inch or so long and that the cable is pulled all the way into the notch. But the hole was just a small square, perhaps a bit more than 1/4" on a side. (img_1141)
21. Hate to go commercial here, but remember to always use Velcro® Brand for all your hook and fastener needs. (img_1142)
22. There's the iPod module, attached with Velcro to the back wall. This close up, there is an acute lack of scale, but suffice to say that whole area isn't very big. The large cable is the Pioneer IP-BUS cable that leads back to the main head unit. The iPod module also needs 12v power and ground, which you can see there. Be sure to put some secure backing (I used remaining "fuzzy" Velcro strips) under the module so that it won't wobble or rattle against the back wall. (img_1144)
22b. IMPORTANT NOTE: before you shove (carefully) all the wiring back into the dash and mount the head unit, take the GPS antenna lead (if you plan to mount it on the dash) and feed it, connector first, through the top vent piece (you can see this piece in image #4 in the WaHooligan82 writeup mentioned above. It is the panel laying just underneath the dash-top vent screen). Then connect it to the antenna jack on the head unit. You may want to bundle it together with other parts of the wiring to keep the strain off the lead so that it doesn't get disconnected. The reason is that the supplied Pioneer GPS "puck" antenna is just large enough to NOT fit through the top vent opening. That is, the piece of trim removed just after the vent screen as you are opening up the dash. I don't recall having to feed it through any other trim pieces, but just eyeball it when you are closing up. You'll be a Sad Panda if you are almost ready to finish and find that puck antenna won't go through the vent opening.
23. So everything is more or less reassembled and we get to the top vent screen trim that needs to be put back in place. Like many others, I decided to mount the GPS antenna on the dash. It's a fairly small antenna and lends itself so easily to this cable run where it quickly disappears back down the diffuser air vent. A quick but gentle filing down of the edge will give just enough room for the coax cable, but not so much that it will move around too much. (img_1145)
24. I wasn't 100% sure about the GPS reception, though, so I only used a small strip of Velcro for mounting in case I needed to remove it. I haven't pulled the lead snug since I will be removing that all again sometime in the near future. Ideally, it would be great to chop several feet out of that GPS coax and recrimp a new connector. Would save some valuable space inside the dash. (img_1147)
25. And here's what it looks like. You can see the trim wasn't 100% happy about going back into place, and the center top of the AI kit appears to be sagging a little bit. Not as bad as the Metra kits are known to do, though. Or is it due to the lack of the plastic tabs, which I broke in my fight against the evil sword-in-the-stone vent removal? I will be going back into the nether regions in the dash to run the bits for the backup/rear view camera and the Sirius module. So maybe I can improve how things fit back into place. All in all, though, not too shabby. (img_1146)
Thanks for reading. This is still a work in progress but I just couldn't wait to get something going! I don't have any decent pics of the AVIC-Z2 in action, but so far it seems great. For now, the microphone is clipped on the dash over the steering wheel and the cable is not properly installed, just running up through the bottom of the dash trim. I want to try some different locations in the cabin to see which works best. Many people seem to like to mount it near the sunglasses storage box, so I'll probably do that. Not sure I'm looking forward to getting up in there, though.
For the steering wheel controls, I only mapped three: Volume up, down and Mute. But even these three alone are worth the install, IMO. I don't like the idea of using the right-side controls for track incrementing, since they also affect what's on the MFD. Holy grail: if someone can make a context-sensitive steering wheel adapter.
All the signals from the Peripheral Electronics interface are working fine, and the sound from the Pioneer system is very good. Even though I'm using the stock speakers and no external amp, there is a marked difference in the sound quality between this head unit and the OEM head unit. In particular, the bass isn't muddy, boomy and indistinct. With the OEM stereo, I felt like the Bass control knob either made the music sound anemic, or just boomy with no real definition. The Pioneer has two user-customizable EQ presets done via a 3-band parametric equalizer. It also has some factory presets, most of which are annoying.
Coming soonish: putting the mic in properly, the Sirius module install, including IP-BUS cable run from dash to trunk (!) and eventually, the Bluetooth module install.
