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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished rebuilding my motor and the only thing i didnt replace was the crank, and pistons.
the rings, bearings, bolts, oil pan, rods, seals, o-rings, gaskets, EVERYTHNG was done. It was done by the book (bentley). Anyway, i just finished putting the motor in the car and i go to crank it and it wont turn, after a few attempts it begins to turn over and runs by itself with no issues for a few seconds and dies. No bad sounds, or grinding or anything but after it died its back to the issue where it wont turn again. I turn the key and the starter motor kicks in but wont turn the engine. whats the deal? any help greatly appreciated
 

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Is your battery producing enough amps to turn the motor over?
 

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Re: (carrboro)

Quote, originally posted by carrboro »
i am now going back out to loosen the spark plugs and see if there is any pent up compression i can release that could be causing the motor to not want to turn. will update.....

That makes zero sense.
Did you ever turn the motor over by hand like with a socket on the crank pulley bolt????
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok, the sensors and everything are fine and well connected. i loosened the spark plugs and nothing happened, i didnt really expect it to but i just wanted to try. same issue. After i torqued the retainers and bearings in for the crank i couldnt turn it with a wrench. Is is possible i received the wrong crank bearings (too thick causing too much resistance)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
also, battery is fully charged and definitely has plenty of amps. The motor did start and ran for a few seconds but then died like it lost fuel, since then it doesnt want to turn. I put a breaker bar on and had a friend try to start the motor and it moved a little at a time but wouldnt continue turning
 

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Re: (carrboro)

Quote, originally posted by carrboro »
ok, After i torqued the retainers and bearings in for the crank i couldnt turn it with a wrench. Is is possible i received the wrong crank bearings (too thick causing too much resistance)?

You should have stoped what you were doing and found the problem right there. The crank should spin pretty easy with everything installed. Did you use any kind of assembly lube for the main and rod bearings? Did you measure the crank, rods, crank journals, rod journals ? Did you plastic gauge the journals to see what size bearings you need?
 

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well some other thing to check........ see it will get harder to turn because of compression.... so take all the spark plug out and spin it(dont start it) use ur braker bar or racket it should move freely if not then there is some thing wrong. rember compression will make it hard so it migth be ez for little bit and hard this is normal in some case as its trying to build pressure up. or it could be that ur car is messed up...
oh ps ur trying to move cam also so it might feal like little harder...


Modified by dogyouare at 10:28 AM 3-23-2010
 

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Re: PLZ HELP! Freshley rebuilt motor issue (carrboro)

alright at this point in time you should be.....1 very f'n scared 2. getting ready to pull out sum money 3 maybe want to slap urself or have someone slap you.... heres why.... before you finished putting everything back together you should have made sure that it spun by hand...reason why aside from making sure its timed correctly you want to make sure a valve is not hitting...there have been situations where a cam is upside down and needs to be spun 180 degrees which if you dont know and leave it as is it will obviously cause a valve to hit a piston....if this happens the knok sensor will NOT LET THE CAR START being that there is a knok...in other words your car may not be timed correctly....which means rip it apart and check your timing if you force it to start you will bend valves...which i hope has not happened which will cause you do do both number 2 and number 3 as mentioned above....hope all goes well and good luck on this one...if the car ran before i wouldnt say crank sensor it should still be good so thats the main possibility....heads up to all who do timing or w.e or will break their engines down when installing cams or w.e make sure that the block is at TDC and once that is done take an adjustable wrench and spin each cam to make sure it doesnt hit a piston if it does that means its 180 degrees off AKA flip it upside down http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif keep us posted...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i just want to reinnerate that it did start once, no bad noises, the cams cant be in the wrong position b/c i made extra sure of that, also, i did remove the spark plugs already, and yes of course i used assembly lube.
I did not check the crank, i took the block, head, and crank to a well known local machine shop that specialized in VW and Audi to have them check everything out. I have used the machine shop before and they have always done good work. At this point i am a bit lost as to what could be the problem, i have the correct bearings as well. I did try to turn the crank by hand after assembly but figured that it didnt want to turn just b/c the new bearings. IDK.
 

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Re: (carrboro)

Quote, originally posted by carrboro »
problem solved, one main bearing cap was turned the wrong way

figured, everybody putting motors together should always spin the stuff over with your hand once you torque any main cap, or rod cap cause its verrrry easy to have something backwards and you should always be able to turn your motor over with breaker bar on the crank pretty easily, until theres spark plugs in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: (daloztprophet)

Quote, originally posted by daloztprophet »
boy u better thank god i thought u were done for.... http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

haha, yea me too
I knew there wasnt a timing issue tho, not my first walk in the park which is why i was so stumped.
thanks for the help guys
 
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