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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
poll: h&r 28mm solid adjustable rsb or autotech adjustable hollow 28mm rsb

ok im tired of my mk3 vr6 jetta feeling like a boat around corners. i know that a rear sway bar helps out alot with correcting body roll. im going to be doing my rear beam bushing soon so i figured this is the time go add one. yes i know my rear beam bushing is causing my "boat feeling" but i want less body roll. some people say to get a shine rsb but those are tough to track down. so my options are either the solid h&r 28mm adjustable rsb or the autotech hollow 28mm adjustable rsb. im stuck because of the whole hollow vs solid thing. so i need some advice on which to pick. state which one and why. thanx :thumbup:
 

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Another option....

Poly rear beam bushings. Keeping your trunk space.

The unibodies are pretty stiff as they are man. To squeeze out that final .04 seconds out on the track, you need a rear sway bar. Need car to drive good? Do bushings. /thread
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Another option....

Poly rear beam bushings. Keeping your trunk space.

The unibodies are pretty stiff as they are man. To squeeze out that final .04 seconds out on the track, you need a rear sway bar. Need car to drive good? Do bushings. /thread
i heard that poly bushing are bad for moving parts. they dont allow parts to move correctly so im kind of skeptical about the poly bushings. thanx though. my 2.0 handles like its on rails. people act like im an idiot with no experience or knowledge. my 2.0 has a neuspeed 28mm rear bar and oem bushings and thats the handling im looking for. i just dont have the adjustable bar and i want to try something new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You typed pole instead of poll and hole instead of whole!
That chapter on homymyns completely missed you, didn't it!
I'm glad my car doesn't drive like a bote...
-Dave
ok ok you got me on that one. my spelling may be a tad off but i could care less. just looking for some honest opinions people. if you have some negative **** to say about the way i spell or anything disregarding my topic dont bother putting some bs in here to get your thread count up.:D
 

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no personal experience here (unfortunately, do want RSB) but from what I understand, both bars are pretty good, H&R maybe a little better (more rigid).

since they're adjustable it's hard to go wrong. install, test, adjust, test, e.t.c. until it's how you like it.

Lift-throttle-oversteer is a beautiful thing.

poly beam bushings wouldn't be horrible but IMO you are better off with an OEM rubber/metal replacement.

Another option....

Poly rear beam bushings. Keeping your trunk space.

The unibodies are pretty stiff as they are man. To squeeze out that final .04 seconds out on the track, you need a rear sway bar. Need car to drive good? Do bushings. /thread
#1: what does trunk space have anything to do with it - rear sways bolt on to the axle underneath the car
#2: stop suggesting polyurethane to people. It's over-used, and isn't the best thing for most people.
#3: this has nothing to do with unibody stiffness. I think you're thinking of "strut-bars". Rear sways bolt to the axle, not the body, and help control understeer.
 

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You can box the beam but you have to know what you are doing. I want to do an o-bar or shine bar because you dont have to worry about blocking suspension and exhaust components that you might want to work on later.

I remember reading a few times that poly is bad for the rear beam bushing. Tests have been done, articles have been written and they said thats the last place you want poly due to lack of movement in some direction. This was years ago so I dont remember the sources. Probably sport compact car or The Golf. Nah probably NOT The Golf on second thought, but somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
no personal experience here (unfortunately, do want RSB) but from what I understand, both bars are pretty good, H&R maybe a little better (more rigid).

since they're adjustable it's hard to go wrong. install, test, adjust, test, e.t.c. until it's how you like it.

Lift-throttle-oversteer is a beautiful thing.

poly beam bushings wouldn't be horrible but IMO you are better off with an OEM rubber/metal replacement.


#1: what does trunk space have anything to do with it - rear sways bolt on to the axle underneath the car
#2: stop suggesting polyurethane to people. It's over-used, and isn't the best thing for most people.
#3: this has nothing to do with unibody stiffness. I think you're thinking of "strut-bars". Rear sways bolt to the axle, not the body, and help control understeer.
thanx for the reply. i was leaning more to the h&r bar one because its a solid bar and two because of the way it mounts (no drilling into the rear beam). both bars are almost the same cost maybe like $7 dollars different. but yes like i said ive driven cars that handled like they were on rails and that's and awsome feeling. im going to wait to here a few more opinions and will go from there. :wave:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You can box the beam but you have to know what you are doing. I want to do an o-bar or shine bar because you dont have to worry about blocking suspension and exhaust components that you might want to work on later.

I remember reading a few times that poly is bad for the rear beam bushing. Tests have been done, articles have been written and they said thats the last place you want poly due to lack of movement in some direction. This was years ago so I dont remember the sources. Probably sport compact car or The Golf. Nah probably NOT The Golf on second thought, but somewhere.
thanx for the reply. ya i looked into the shine bars and the way they mount inside the beam is nice. i also looked into the torsion bar from bfi as a option but a few people said that both cause the rear end to swing out too easily even on daily driven cars. if the h&r or autotech rsb doesnt do anything what i was expecting i might go ahead and locate a shine bar. does anyone know the thickness of the shine bar? i read somewhere like 56mm or something crazy?
 

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FV-QR

Poly is a TERRIBLE idea in the rear beam. It completely destroys the functionality of a solid rear beam. Recommending it shows you shouldn't be giving advice on this subject.


Also, a rear sway bar is one of the BEST things you can do to these cars, even dead stock, to make then drive/handle MUCH better.


If staying sub 300lb in the rear springs, I would recommend an internal rear sway bar, and keeping the stock front bar. The o-bar is a good substitute for the shine bar. The bolt on external bars aren't ideal for our suspension design.


If you are going with real coils and real spring rates, I would leave the rear beam alone (as long as you have a GTI/GLX rear beam), and REMOVE the front bar. This will help with motive traction greatly.
 

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Also, if running a GTI/Golf body, a REAL triangulated rear strut bar is a must. The flex back there is insane.

The downside is, all the off the shelf strut bars we have are utter garbage. You will have to weld up your own, but it is a SUPER easy fab project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Poly is a TERRIBLE idea in the rear beam. It completely destroys the functionality of a solid rear beam. Recommending it shows you shouldn't be giving advice on this subject.


Also, a rear sway bar is one of the BEST things you can do to these cars, even dead stock, to make then drive/handle MUCH better.


If staying sub 300lb in the rear springs, I would recommend an internal rear sway bar, and keeping the stock front bar. The o-bar is a good substitute for the shine bar. The bolt on external bars aren't ideal for our suspension design.


If you are going with real coils and real spring rates, I would leave the rear beam alone (as long as you have a GTI/GLX rear beam), and REMOVE the front bar. This will help with motive traction greatly.
ya i have ****ty jom coils right now im not too sure what the spring rates on those are. they feel pretty good now but it would feel better with a rear sway bar. i havent heard of the o-bar before. what exactly is that? thanx for the input.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
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