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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Today we swapped the dashboard and replaced the airbags on our project 2017 GTI S 4 door. I thought the spring clips on the oh jesus handles were tough...the dash is full of them!:screwy: It was a 10 hour job but if we ever had to do it again it would take half the time now that we know how it all goes together. It was very gratifying for my son and I to see it all back together and working!
Next weekend we’ll tackle the front rad support, body panels and maybe the curtain airbags. Total budget is $9-10K including the car and our "free" labor. We should get close if there are not too many extra surprises...sure!




 

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What a great experience. When I was 15 my grandfather and I started restoring his 1966 GMC truck and finished just before I got my license. I was born a car guy but that was awesome.


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Discussion Starter #3
What a great experience. When I was 15 my grandfather and I started restoring his 1966 GMC truck and finished just before I got my license. I was born a car guy but that was awesome.


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Cool love those old truck too! I have many great experiences working on cars as a kid which I retold on my mk1 build thread which is why we decided to go this route for my boy. He's been helping me the last 8 years on my projects so it's his turn now.

We have lots of parts now! Hopefully we have everything we need minus a couple of items I still want to find used to keep on budget since we will need to have the front 1/4 professionally painted/blended.

 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)

The Gti is coming together nicely. Rad carrier, crash bar, lights, hood and fender are all back on before final fitment then off to paint. Almost all codes cleared out other than the airbag light as we are waiting on the seat belts and airbag module to come back in. Changed the oil and took it for a test drive but it seemed down on power and then we got a "EPC" check engine light after a quick burst. I have a generic Foxwell scanner and it gets the following code:


P2025/$07E8 Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Fuel Vapor Temperature Sensor Performance

We are totally new to modern VW's so bear with me as we figure out the steep learning curve of new tech! Initially I thought maybe a boost hose came off but visually everything seems to check out. I'm thinking this could be simply a case of old gas as the car sat for more than a year although it starts and idles just fine. My searches don't come up with anything clear and obvious and I can't locate said FV Temperature sensor in the bay to check it out. Others have reported that the EPC is often related to the throttle body. Does anyone have ideas on where to go from here?

Should I plan on investing in OBDeleven vs. just simply buying the Foxwell Volkswagen app? I believe we need something more sophisticated to clear out the airbag light anyways even with the reset airbag module so maybe I can get more out of an upgrade to the scanner?

Appreciate any suggestions/guidance!

Hoffa
 

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Not sure what the EVAP error is caused by, but for future vehicles, using a VCDS cable allows you to actually “reset” the airbag module so that you don’t have to pull it out and send it out anywhere. VCDS is a bit more spendy than a single module repair service, but over time, it really begins to save a lot of labor (no need to get to the module) and money.

Not sure if Obdeleven can do the same, I would also look into that as well.

Just my two cents:)
Awesome work!
 

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FV Temp sensor

The sensor is most likely located in/near the gas tank. Check the connections to make sure they have continuity. I agree with everybody else regarding VCDS, it is a great tool that has paid for itself countless times in my garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks for the feedback/suggestions. I will check the connections by the tank and see if anything is amiss as we did install a small tow hitch so maybe something got bumped during install or maybe @ Copart with the tractor forks. SafetyRestore sent back my front belts but said they had their best guy on it and could not reset the airbag module like they usually do. They suggested I get a used one so sounds like I need to find one from a rear end wreck where the belts and bags were not set off. :facepalm: Unless you are saying that VCDS might be able to reset mine where the service could not. I understand that my Foxwell and OBDEleven can reset airbag lights but likely not the module itself. It looks like I need VCDS in my life or find someone local that does and pay them for the help.
 

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This some good stuff!
I’m personally doing a similar rebuild with my father. I need a lot of things. Wanted to ask, where are you purchasing your parts from?
Good luck!!

 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Looks like a good project 2 door! I hope the frame horns up front are good as was the case on mine. Saves the cost of frame machine and welding work.

I purchased most of the parts new by a recommendation here from elkgroveoemparts.com as the prices were way less expensive than from any local dealers and in most cases actually very close to used prices from wrecking yards. I saved shipping by being able to drive the hour and half to pick up. I needed over 20 parts from them, then purchased two airbags new off a seller on ebay in TX and the rest from a nearby wrecking yard who delivered. They had a whole front end from a white 2017 but it was HID and they sold it for big bucks as an insurance repair within 4 days. For used parts check car-part.com and LKQ as many of the wreckers post there. I had hoped to find a whole front end in the same color but since almost all are wrecked front they are hard to come by and none popped up in the time frame we had. I'm about $4K in parts all in surprisingly as there's just a lot of little parts that go in front that add up. Would be about $600 less without a blown passenger dash airbag. If you go aftermarket parts you could save quite a bit but I wanted to stay original in my case because the car is so new. Check out partsgeek.com for aftermarket. I have a factory VW radiator carrier new in the box if you need one part#5GM-805-588-D-9B9.

In retrospect it probably would have been much faster and less expensive to buy a whole parts car that was rear ended then sell the rest off afterwards (might even break even in the end with the remaining big parts like engine/trans/seats). PM me if you have any more questions!
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Diggs I checked out that vapor temperature sensor #6 and the wires were just fine and the unit looked physically fine but may have a fault. It hooks onto the side of the tank under the passenger rear. We pulled the intake box and noticed there is a tube that points down that was not connected to anything (pic below with airbox on it's side). Is that just a condensation hose that drips to the ground or should that go to something?

I also traced all the vacuum lines in the engine bay and checked all the wire connectors and all looked in good shape. I pulled the N80 and it seemed to be closed as I could barely blow through it (maybe that's normal when cold?). We drove it for about 35 miles to burn off the old fuel but still have 80 miles to empty. It is clearly still in some kind of limp home mode as anything more than 10% throttle just makes intake noises with hardly any chooching! Under full throttle it bogs then when it finally gets above 4K RPM's triggers the EPC dash light and then immediately the check engine light. A quick scan reveals the same P2025 code. I can clear it and it will repeat in the same conditions so we're keeping it part throttle for now until I can get a proper scan.



I reached out to a nearby Vortexer that has VCDS :)wave:THEGAV!) so hoping I can bribe him to come out and give us a real scan and see if we can pinpoint the issue before I start parts swapping.

I'm thinking it's not just old gas given the EPC & CEL trigger and consistent code. Might go in this order vs. a trip to the dealer if I can't get a VCDS.

  1. replacement VTS
  2. maybe the n80 or
  3. a throttle body.

It also wonder if the accident airbag deployment and still having the airbag module out keeps the computer in limp mode? Anyone know?

BTW this Mk7 is killer! the handling is amazing, the steering feels great, and the stereo sounds great and is fancy with the big screen and Car Play! Can't wait to get it sorted and feel the real boost! I thought my daughters Mk6 Jetta SEL was quick with the 1.8T so this thing will be a rocket!
 

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Looks like a good project 2 door! I hope the frame horns up front are good as was the case on mine. Saves the cost of frame machine and welding work.

I purchased most of the parts new by a recommendation here from elkgroveoemparts.com as the prices were way less expensive than from any local dealers and in most cases actually very close to used prices from wrecking yards. I saved shipping by being able to drive the hour and half to pick up. I needed over 20 parts from them, then purchased two airbags new off a seller on ebay in TX and the rest from a nearby wrecking yard who delivered. They had a whole front end from a white 2017 but it was HID and they sold it for big bucks as an insurance repair within 4 days. For used parts check car-part.com and LKQ as many of the wreckers post there. I had hoped to find a whole front end in the same color but since almost all are wrecked front they are hard to come by and none popped up in the time frame we had. I'm about $4K in parts all in surprisingly as there's just a lot of little parts that go in front that add up. Would be about $600 less without a blown passenger dash airbag. If you go aftermarket parts you could save quite a bit but I wanted to stay original in my case because the car is so new. Check out partsgeek.com for aftermarket. I have a factory VW radiator carrier new in the box if you need one part#5GM-805-588-D-9B9.

In retrospect it probably would have been much faster and less expensive to buy a whole parts car that was rear ended then sell the rest off afterwards (might even break even in the end with the remaining big parts like engine/trans/seats). PM me if you have any more questions!
Yeah got lucky as I purchased online and the frame is in great shape only thing I need to change is the reinforcement bar and everything else behind that; radiator support, condenser, intercooler, radiator, and fan assembly. Really want to sort out original parts before going to aftermarket but have no luck here in Florida through car-part. Thank you so much for the information, I’m going to check out the website you provided.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Gavin came through big time and lent me his VCDS so have been playing around with it to get up the learning curve. Getting a new code with VCDS P0299 00 [167] after similar conditions to trigger EPC but this time no CEL. My intercooler had a slight bend to it in the accident but did not see a hole or crack but maybe its enough to cause? Will try some logging in the morning on this but also want to see if the diverter valve has an issue.


Is it normal if you are in park to not be able to rev past 4K? Also when I try to hold RPM's steady @ 2K it will slowly drop on its own. I tried some Basic testing in VCDS including the Throttle calibration but did
not seem to make a difference. Will try some more testing tomorrow. Not knowing anything I suspect the diverter valve since the 2025 code is no longer coming up and the Throttle calibration said it was good. This VCDS is a pretty cool tool
and can't wait to get a better grasp of its capabilities.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
:wave:Anyone know if the accident airbag deployment and still having the airbag module out keeps the computer in limp mode?

Is it normal if you are in park to not be able to rev past 4K and if you try to hold RPM's steady @ 2K it will slowly drop on its own?

 

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Discussion Starter #19
Pulled the diverter and it looks like it has the updated style head with no diaphragm 06H145710C. Seemed to move just fine so now going under to double-check connections below and the rod to see if it's stuck. Then see if I can get VCDS to test the N80, the diverter valve and the turbo actuator. Cleaned up the bay a bit while I was in there...



 

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Discussion Starter #20
May have found my boost leak!


The tab that holds the intercooler to the carrier was broken off. I'm hoping this hole was the root cause of the EPC P0299 code it.
 
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