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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I got the crazy notion to move my battery to the back of the car like in the TT to lighten the front end a little. After looking at the TT's setup and my trunk I came to the conclusion that the stock battery wasn't going to work. I did not want to lose any trunk space to the battery either. A bit of research turned up the Hawker Odyssey PC925 Sealed Lead Acid battery. This battery is the perfect size for fitting in the wheel well right were the electric air pump sits. Since it is a sealed battery no need for a box either. Most people use this battery as a second battery for big stereo installs but it has plenty of CCA to be a primary battery.
Parts I used:
PC925 battery (part#: 0765-2024) http://www.portablepower.com/P...107S5
Stinger 0 gauge Amp Kit SWKH0 http://www.cardomain.com/item/STISWKH0
Stinger HPM connector (kit only comes with one) http://www.cardomain.com/item/STIPROBATTZPT
Stinger STIS0PRG ring terminals http://www.cardomain.com/item/STIS0PRG
Stinger SHBLU4 8 feet (only needed 8 inches rest is for amp install) http://www.cardomain.com/item/STISHBLU41
Stinger SHPM4 6 feet (Used 12 inches rest is for amp install) http://www.cardomain.com/item/STISHPM41
Stinger 4 gauge ring terminals http://www.cardomain.com/item/STIS4PRG
Tools:
Drill
Dremel
Hacksaw
Small fine tooth Wood saw (my hacksaw didn't work very well)
The Install:
Fist thing was to make sure the batter would fit (I had already made a template before I ordered it). There is no room to use post terminals here so don't go and buy any expensive post stile connectors.

Next was to cut out the hard Styrofoam wheel well insert. The battery was only a little bit longer than the electric air pump and a lot deeper. I had to lengthen the hole about 1/4 inch and cut it all the way out so the battery would sit on wheel well.
I started by drilling some holes in the foam so I could get a saw in there to gut it out. I started with a hacksaw but ended up using a small wood saw to cut the hole. I lengthened the hole towards the back of the car.

I had to be careful not to break the foam but didn't have any issues. After I got the fit I wanted (nice and snug) I sanded any rough spots in the foam.

I also added some weather stripping to the base of the wheel well to prevent any rattling.

If you are wondering what happened to the air pump:

Next was to pull the old battery out, I took the basket out too.

Old battery Weighing in at ~40 pounds

Here is the new battery nice and light. The PC925 comes in several variants if you see one with MJ that means metal jacket for colder temps. Since I installed it in the car surrounded by foam I went with the non MJ battery to save an extra couple of pounds. They also make a Left + terminal but I think it only comes with the metal jacket.

To install the power wire I started from the drivers side door since this is where the tightest fit was. I pulled the seat belt bracket and had to feed the wire under a support beam that runs horizontally under the seat. I'm planning on running preamp RCA cables down the passenger side and didn't want them next to the power cable.

Here is the wired up engine compartment. I also used some of the 4 gauge wire to directly ground the alternator. The alternator power wire is ok but when I get a chance I'm going to replace that too plus it is hard to get at. I used the throttle cable hole for the power wire but I had to widen the hole to get the grommet and 0 gauge wire through it. I didn't have a drill bit that would work so I used a grinding wheel on my dremel. I still need to figure out what I'm going to do with the fuse block like make a bracket for it. I connected the 0 gauge wire and 4 gauge power lead (to the fuse block) strait to the starter.

Here is the wiring for the trunk. The power wire was not long enough so I had to use a little of the silver ground wire that came in the kit on the power side. I'll get some more of the blue power wire later just so it will match. The amp kit comes with a 250amp ANL fuse which is big enough to handle the starter. I used the body of the car for the ground some people run a ground wire all the way up but as long as you thoroughly ground the engine to the car body

Here the battery all hooked up nice and clean. The battery fits perfect and does not stick up or interfere with the floor mat.


Issues:
For the most part everything was strait forward. This was the first time I had ever took a MK4 apart so I had to figure out how the panels came off without breaking them. I did make one bad mistake. When I put the seatbelt bracket back in I pinched a couple wires from the computer to the haladax giving me a big scare see http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1584769. As mentioned above, the power wire was about 2 feet short of making it all the way. I needed to install the fuse anyway and I had some extra 0 gauge ground wire I ran from the fuse to the battery. Like I said I'll get some more pretty blue wire later

Results:
The battery seems to be working good so far and the car cranks as well if not better than the stock battery. I'm reading 14.4v at idle and 12.8v with all accessories on (including AC, seat heat, etc) at idle.
Concerns:
I'm going to be adding a 360watt AMP and 10inch sub I hope the rated 27ah of the battery will hold up. I live in the northwest where it doesn't get all that cold but I'm not sure if this battery would work well in North Dakota or not.
 

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Re: Project battery relocation. (elanSTi)

nice installation
curious, did you looking at routing cable under car -
i've been thinking moving battery but only glanced at the underside in terms of routing
there seemed to be a nice channel where the brake lines run forward
 

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Re: Project battery relocation. (elanSTi)

very, very cool.... You make it look as easy as the Exhaust flapper 3 way switch mod, but I know it can't possibly be as easy.
GREAT WORK, thanks for the pics. (NOW, what do I do with my TT Spare?
)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: Project battery relocation. (larryccf1)

Thanks!
larryccf1, Yes I did and I saw the same channel you did. That was my second option to run the cable there. I was just worried about corrosion from road oil and what not. If the wire wouldn't have fit inside that is where I would have run it. While the 0 gauge I installed fit fine and didn't leave any carpet bubbles, I don't think anything bigger would fit down the drivers side. There are even some rubber grommets in the wheel well that you can run a large wire through. but you would have to shape more of the Styrofoam.
Kevbelz, Install time took me about ~16 hours partly because of me smashing the Can bus wires, partly because of me not knowing the MK4 but I think I spent most of the time shaping the Styrofoam insert and being careful not to break it or make it look nasty. I think they make some specific tools for cutting Styrofoam that would have made my life a lot easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: (GTIVR6RACER4EVER)

I forgot to weigh the wire I guess around 10 pounds. I know I'm not saving all that much weight overall but I'm removing 40 pounds from in front of the front axle. I'm also planning for future engine mods so now I have more room up front.
 

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Re: (GTIVR6RACER4EVER)

a nice tool for cutting styrofoam is a standard utility knife
but even with a new blade, the trick is to sharpen it with a fine stone
like you would a hunting knife
and polish the sides of the blade edge
any microscopic "roughage" and it snags and pulls the styrofoam
real sharp and clean blade and going thru with light cutting motion, it will cut nicely - and if making a deep cut like you would be there, as you make one slice, say about 1/2" deep, on next cut use one hand to try to open that first cut so the blade isn't rubbing the sides of what it just cut
i cut a lot of foam for mold building and have tried every thing short of hiring and training a beaver to knaw his way thru for me
 

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Re: Project battery relocation. (jbR32)

curious on another item
why the O guage wire
not being smart, i know enough about electrics to get myself in trouble so that's why i'm asking
i know the longer the distance, you need to grow in size or guage to compensate for the resistance, but O guage seems awfully large for that short distance (8 feet) and how quick this engine normally fires up
plus, y our wire looks like it's steel - would have thought copper would have allowed smaller guage
did you run it thru an electrics formula for distance / guage?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: Project battery relocation. (larryccf1)

Quote, originally posted by larryccf1 »
curious on another item
why the O guage wire
not being smart, i know enough about electrics to get myself in trouble so that's why i'm asking
i know the longer the distance, you need to grow in size or guage to compensate for the resistance, but O guage seems awfully large for that short distance (8 feet) and how quick this engine normally fires up
plus, y our wire looks like it's steel - would have thought copper would have allowed smaller guage
did you run it thru an electrics formula for distance / guage?

The cable run is actually 20 feet and the starter is going to draw a lot of power. You have to route that sucker over the hills and through the woods of the car. Also I wanted to avoid power loss from the alternator to the battery.
The cable is copper with platinum coating.



Modified by Mr. Black at 7:57 PM 9-13-2004
 

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Re: (larryccf1)

I have a couple of other things to try for foam cutting. I have used an electric carving knife that had twin scalloped reciprocating blades. For small jobs I have heated a carton knife before using it. I've also used the (extremely sharp) blades out of my (woodworking) hand planes. The best was a waterjet cutter at work but that is out of reach for most.
 

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Re: (Drahthaar)

Mr Black - thanks for the explanation - i mis read your earlier descript, so yeah, 18 or 20 feet, i can see the guage
on styrofoam, the carving knifes aren't going to give a clean straight cut that a sharp razor knife blade will
styro will also go thru a table saw (up to a limit in thickness) if you place and tack a pc of 1/4" or 1/2" plywood over it - that gives me the cleanest edge or cut
and damn, wish i had a waterjet cutter - that and a nice EDM plunger
but having drathaars, i'd thought you'd have 'plained to them what it was you were trying to achieve and leave it to them to get it done
hell, i decided i'd try rabbit hunting so i showed the older one a pix of a rabbit and then taught him to only hunt and find rabbits the size of whatever pc of wood i showed him
few weeks later, wife pulls out the ironing board
charlie was gone for 2 days
when he came back, had a VW in his mouth



Modified by larryccf1 at 11:28 PM 9-13-2004
 

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Re: (#466gti)

Quote, originally posted by #466gti »
damn that battery is small.

Its actually not that small, both physically dimension wise and weight wise. You can get a battery with a lot of cranking amps, thats half the size both in weight and dimensions. Hawker is a great company, for whatever you need...dry cell's are real nice.
 

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Re: (GTIVR6RACER4EVER)

I almost did the samething... even pulled the interior apart and started running 0 guage wire to the back. Then I was lazy and just mounted everything up front because time was an issue before a show.
 
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