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Re: FV-QR (V-TEC this!!!)

Your motor turned out amazing! The fab work is absolutely stunning. I can't wait to see it in the car. What kind of power do you expect to make?
 

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Re: FV-QR (sdezego)

Quote, originally posted by sdezego »
LOL, I miss Phil Hartman

a moment of silence for phil please....

epic build,
carry on please http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #285 ·
Re: FV-QR (sdezego)

Adding the Euro Shifter information here. For those who are unaware, there is a Euro Lupo that uses the 02m/02j shift mechanism in a box that fits 02a tunnels.
The Following 3 parts are needed to convert.
ETKA shows these to cross ref to:
CA '96-'03 Caddy
LU '99-'03 Lupo / Lupo 3L TDi
LU '04-'06 Lupo / Lupo 3L TDi
PO '95-'00 Polo / Derby
PO '00-'02 Polo / Derby
POC '00-'02 Polo Classic / Variant
I should also give credit to the thread that I first saw them in -> http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=4306052

Quote, originally posted by vr64motion »
Had to look it up.
3 parts:
6N0 711 061 A House
6N0 711 090 A Ground plate
6N0 711 611 C Choise arm
You need all 3. Cost about 70 euro's

Here is is from my research thread -> http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...age=1

This stuff is well worth the price to have an OEM solution. I am sure we can all fab up the parts and hack up our tunnel to make the 02m box fit in, but I would much rather spend my time on other more valuable areas.
I swapped out the parts this afternoon and it was simple and straightforward.
NOTE: The 02m stick is about 2.25" taller than the 02a (even in the new box). So, I cut it off, and put a die for 12x1.5mm threads to use the STD earlier Shift knobs, but you could cut a groove to use the Mk4+.

Click for larger pics.









The shaft size it a tad big for the 12x1.5mm Tap, but it can be done. The Threads just don't come out perfect, but it's only holding on a shift knob anyway

 

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Discussion Starter · #287 ·
Re: FV-QR (VRT)

Thanks Rob.
Here is what I have been working on. Coolant Pipes, Timing Cover and misc BS that you never think about doing hybrid stuff until you run into it.
Since the ABA is a tall deck block, there are no Timing covers that work, so I grafted to upper AEBs to account for the 15mm difference. You can see the start above, but I merged them for good today. I also had to remove the bump out to clear the belt going to the rear mount alt.





I also threw a few rivets and backer in there for good luck..

 

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Discussion Starter · #290 ·
Re: FV-QR (sdezego)

Next off is making up my Flywheel lock to torque the ARP crank bolt to button up the rest of the front of the motor and make a Special T for the Coolant bypass circuit off of the head flange. I bought the AL pipe to do this, but just need to take it up to the lathe.
 

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Re: FV-QR (sdezego)

Looks good. I was just thinking about the coolant pipe, is just mild steel? I was thinking about making mine wrap under the motor, so was just curious what to use when I need to add sections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #293 ·
Re: FV-QR (Forty-six and 2)

yep. mild steel. Under the motor (between the oil pan and the trans) is actually an interesting idea. I think there is enough room on the back side to clear the axle Flange. It just needs to come up and tie into the Heater Core return as well as the Expansion tank (if you are going to run one).
 

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Re: FV-QR (sdezego)

Exactly. I am running a coolant res and heater core, so keeping it all off of the bellhousing would be ideal. How does the pipe not corode?
 

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Discussion Starter · #297 ·
Re: FV-QR (VRT)

Quote, originally posted by VRT »
nice idea, I used the 1.8t pipe and blocked of the end on my 20/20. It seems to follow the block near the head

I assume you are referring to the AEB 1.8t? If so, I looked at that one, but the AEB H20 pump only has the lower bypass nipple on the pump. all other transverse 8vs, have the bottom nipple that run the bypass circuit through the heater core where the upper nipple on the pump is used for the internal recirc from the head.
I will be working on my upper (recirc from head coolant Flange) shortly and as mentioned, I will be creating a T between the head Flange and the Upper Rad Hose. You can see in the pics that I will be using the 8v Hose (non-h20/oil cooler hose) that normally went to the front Head flange on Digi/8vs and it is perfect to direct to the T that I will be making. The T and pipe to that hose will be one piece.
 

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Re: FV-QR (sdezego)

So mild steel is even ok for the flanges that attach to the head right? I guess I never thought much about what I can just build to make routing everything look cleaner and easier to place sensors.
 
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