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I decided to use the 02m Master Cyl and modify it for the 02a bracket and pedal. There are provisions for nylon bushings for the pedal pin (not pictured)
The O2M master is 0.630" bore and the O2A/O2J is 0.750" bore. Using the O2A master on an O2M slave gives terrible clutch feel as I found. I changed to a Mk4 O2M master as well, and I made a pedal pushrod clevis as well with a bronze bushing, and I cut that top rib as well. Fluid displacement per inch of master cyl pushrod travel tells the story:
Mk4 O2M: 0.630 bore, volume = 0.3117 in2 per inch
Corrado O2A: 0.75 bore, volume = 0.441 in2 per inch: 40% more fluid for the same travel = clutch pedal becomes on/off switch

Clutch feel is vastly improved which I assume was your goal as well?

However, bleeding the slave was not improved so I cannot yet get all the air out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #666 · (Edited)
I searched for the Right Oil Cooler because I wanted to mount it where the Stock G60 intercooler was with the cooling duct in place, etc. Settled on this Mocal one from BAT. Need to get some low profile ANs as well.

Since my IC take up the whole front of the car, I could not use the stock Power Steering Cooler Pipe. I used some 1/2 Copper to make up a Home Depot Motorsports PS Cooler :laugh: I actually bought a DeRale PS Cooler with ANs, but was not pleased with inside Diam. This is far better solution IMO. This is the Low Press side, so it's easy to get creative.










Need to make or Extend the Duct. No Biggie. Stock Brake Duct also fits in the mix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #667 · (Edited)
Suspension time. So, I bought a set of brand new FK Coil overs (sans the cartridges) from a fellow vortexer under the impression that Koni Inserts would drop right in with minimal issue. For the rear, that was the case. A set of Corrado Koni Adjustables pretty much went right in and I only needed to cut off the Lower Shock Mount Eyelet.

The Front was a case from hell. Either Diam was too big, or overall length to short, etc.

After a crapload of research, I was able to find a set of Koni Adjustable Race inserts. They were not cheap, but they are suppose to be badass. All in all I have (iirc) about 800 in a brand new set of Super nice and fairly top end Adj Konis.

Obviously there was some minor machine work necessary as I need to made some spacers as well as machine to front top had because the Koni Race Shafts were larger diam.

REARS:



 

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Orig owner 90 g60, 02 allroad 6SP M w/ 3rd Row, 07 3X White NB Vert, 09 Escalade ESV Plat to tow em
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Hey, that’s fellow vortex’r is PTP. That was humbling to learn the strut insert compatibility posted about the front tubes was not correct.

No matter where on the the interwebs that info was pulled from, it should have been verified in my own hands like the rear Koni tubes were. Most don’t know Koni does not and will not provide any measurements on their struts compatible with the 8610 1442 loaded in the FK tubes except Koni racing inserts.



We’re you ever able to return or sell the Koni 8610 1262 inserts I posted as compatible? The post I found showed they were 1.77” or 50mm in the S2 forum or same as the KONI racing that fit. I also see Vortex no longer supports / removed BB code for strike through that lined over on the incompatible strut info. I’ll have to edit the info again.

https://www.s2forum.com/forum/techn...e-shock-absorber-settings-thread-shocks/page3








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Discussion Starter · #671 · (Edited)
No worries, and I am not bothered by it and certainly don't blame you for the bad info that you received. I am sure you were misinformed (possibly by Koni themselves). It was par for the course for this project. Something that seems like a no-brainer ends up as the equivalent to herding cats :p

Luckily, I was able to resell the fronts w/o too too much pain, but there aren't a ton of people looking to soup up their Audi 80. It was a long time ago, but from what I recall they were too long for the strut bodies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #672 · (Edited)
Also, if it is not evident from the picture, the Front struts I used were:

Koni (8610 1436Race)

I think they sell for about $210 each, but since I was searching so much around for them, one day the good ole amazon pop up came up with SALE: $164 each, so I jumped on it.
 

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Orig owner 90 g60, 02 allroad 6SP M w/ 3rd Row, 07 3X White NB Vert, 09 Escalade ESV Plat to tow em
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Story of my life Shawn. 12 & 15 y/o girls and 17 y/o son. All my Corrado time migrated into the Yukon forums to master the art of owning an ‘08 3 1/4 ton family mover and the wife’s 07 Vert Barbie Beetle. Everything GMC is so damn heavy compared to the g60.

Please tell me you carry stated value ins on the sc2020.


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Discussion Starter · #674 · (Edited)
ha, yea, I am in the exact same boat (sans the 12 yr old girl), but my 3 yrd old Siberian Huskey is like having another young girl LOL. I have mastered the Ford 6.0 Diesel since it became the replacement family and toy hauler :) You want to talk about everything being heavy, LOL. I had to make a special bracket to bolt to each head in order for the hoist to lift each head off at the right angle when I pulled the top end to bullet proof it. :laugh:



 

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Yea, dogs own our truck. Learned that leather is the way to go with fur children. Cloth allows the fur to get between the weave and stick like a million tiny daggers.



ps: The New Beetle has a slightly bent FK strut tube up front. Had a machine shop hydraulically pull it but the insert got wasted. Any recommendations on a technique to bring the tube back to spec? It’s inox.


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Discussion Starter · #678 · (Edited)
Time for the header. Many years ago, when this project first started, it seemed feasible to me to take a 16v header and "just" re-flange at the head with a 20v Turbo Flange. Easy, right? Seemed so at the time, so I bought a SuperSprint 16v SS header (see Page 1).

The Euro AGN 20v was Naturally Aspirated and did have a manifold similar to Mk2/Mk3 and used the same down pipes, but they were rare at the time and $$ when found in the states. See Page 3. No one made a 20v header at the time and even today, I only see that TT makes a long tube race header (not good for the street/long term use due to cracking)

So, onward with the road I had chosen and committed myself to. It turns out that the Ex side of the head on the 16v is 90* to the head gasket, whereas the 20v is sloped inward 15%.

So, this was a problem and I decided to correct, by getting some custom mandrel SS bends made. Turns out that 75* bends (one at 78*) were perfect to adapt, but I needed to bore the SS flange larger to accommodate.

Also, I made a jig to ensure perfect positioning of the CAT Flange when using the Taller 236mm 2L Block.

This was my first go at SS Tig welding, and even though I back-purged everything, the results could be better... I learned a lot though.

I also, added EGT ports in case I decide to add CANEgt to Megasquirt3x.


Boring the Flange




Used the 16v head and unmodified header to make the mount Jig



 
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