[the vegenator]

First time quantum owner, long time admirer. Spent some time removing accessories and unhooking everything. A few head scratching moments. I have a Bentley on order but I was hoping y’all could help me out with some things.

First question - how does the ac compressor unbolt? Do I have to unbolt the whole mounting bracket?

Second q - How do you get this thing out with the trans hooked on? The tie rods are preventing it from lifting up on the back side, and the condenser is restricting movement on the front. I plan to keep ac, but I suppose I can just pull the condenser for now so it gives a little more space to get the engine out.

Now, about these pulleys —- the compressor, crank, and WP pulleys are all lacking any kind of tensioners. I’ve read about this before but don’t remember what the story is. Is there a way to adjust these? Or do I just have to unbolt the pulleys??

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[B1-16V]

Some of your pulleys will have stacked shim plates that are removed or added for belt tension.
I like to remove the engine like the factory does, from underneath.
But that has its own challenges.

 

[Willi-The-Red13]

First time quantum owner, long time admirer. Spent some time removing accessories and unhooking everything. A few head scratching moments. I have a Bentley on order but I was hoping y’all could help me out with some things.

First question - how does the ac compressor unbolt? Do I have to unbolt the whole mounting bracket?

Second q - How do you get this thing out with the trans hooked on? The tie rods are preventing it from lifting up on the back side, and the condenser is restricting movement on the front. I plan to keep ac, but I suppose I can just pull the condenser for now so it gives a little more space to get the engine out.

Now, about these pulleys —- the compressor, crank, and WP pulleys are all lacking any kind of tensioners. I’ve read about this before but don’t remember what the story is. Is there a way to adjust these? Or do I just have to unbolt the pulleys??

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Oo FrankenWagen I removed everything from the crankshaft but the first pulley (Water pump) also had to twist shove to get it in or out

 

[Willi-The-Red13]

Oo FrankenWagen I removed everything from the crankshaft but the first pulley (Water pump) also had to twist shove to get it in or out

Also removed radiator & the A?C condenser unitfor room

 

[the vegenator]

I’ll look into hoisting my car up with the chain fall and lowering it… also tempted to remove the trans but that seems like a nightmare given spatial constraints.

Having a hard time picturing how shimming a pulley forward will increase tension, but I’ll learn a lot more when the Bentley manual shows up In a few days.


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[QuantumMechanic]

Transmission is actually easier than in a transverse. You don't have to clock it to get the drive flange past the flywheel...I don't want to think about how many times I had to pull and reinstall them on my project cars...

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[B1-16V]

This is how I put the engine IN my car. Maybe this will help.
Dasher 16V build | VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum

 

[Willi-The-Red13]

I’ll look into hoisting my car up with the chain fall and lowering it… also tempted to remove the trans but that seems like a nightmare given spatial constraints.

Having a hard time picturing how shimming a pulley forward will increase tension, but I’ll learn a lot more when the Bentley manual shows up In a few days.


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If you have the room dropping the engine & transmission bolted together is faster & easier that trying to get it out through the top. Biggest problem with doing that is you drop the U shaped rear engine & transmission sub frame with the engine & trans bolted to it. The lower control arms bolt to it so you can't move your car around on its 4 wheels while the sub frame is out & you have to put jack stands in to support the front end.

 

[the vegenator]

I’m very close to wrapping up my engine install. Built up a “new” motor using an NA long block I rebuilt a few years ago. MLS head gasket, ARP head studs. Everything reattached and dropped in. I’m not going nuts on it because I just want to get it together assuming that the block was the only previous issue.

I have a couple questions though… info on the quantum seems to be lacking out on the WWW. And the Bentley is also lacking much info for the quantum (compared to the mk2).

- I failed to drain/fill the gear box when it was out so no I need to do that with it in. No telling how old the gear oil is. I see the drain plug but wasn’t sure where to fill. Any tips?

- I was also scratching my head on where the speedo cable goes. There’s a spot on the top of the trans between the axle flanges but it has a black cap that fits into the hole.

- The accelerator cable came off the pedal because the bushing disintegrated. and when I pulled the foam/pressed board lower dash cover a weighted thing fell down that looks like it might be for the pedal. Anyone have experience with how the cable links up to the pedal? I put a bushing off my mk2 pedal cluster on it and didn’t do anything with the pot metal weighted piece. The IP lever has full travel, but the pedal itself does NOT go to the button on the floor.

- the shifter linkage bushings are mostly toast. Barring some NOS bushing kit sitting on a shelf somewhere, I’m curious if anyone knows of similar kits or bushings that will work with the quantum.

Thanks!

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[the vegenator]

Oh also I thank you all for the help and advice on how to pull the engine out. Ended up dropping the suspension and lowering the engine and trans onto a furniture dolly.

I read in the Bentley that says you’re supposed to be able to pull the engine and trans up and out with the hood still on. I don’t believe that one but. Hahah


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[Willi-The-Red13]

Oh also I thank you all for the help and advice on how to pull the engine out. Ended up dropping the suspension and lowering the engine and trans onto a furniture dolly.

I read in the Bentley that says you’re supposed to be able to pull the engine and trans up and out with the hood still on. I don’t believe that one but. Hahah


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Welcome to the "Quantum Club" , if you look at my FrankenWagen thread you'll see my project. What year is yours?

 

[the vegenator]

Hi! I’ll take a look. Mine is an 84.


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[Willi-The-Red13]

Same as mine complete with Whurlitzer Irgan HVAC controls. WHy VW went with that when they had very workable cable operated ones IDK.

 

[the vegenator]

Ooo I’m not familiar but I suppose I’ll soon find out.

I bought a couple shifter bushings on eBay this morning. Lucky to find those. One of the links was on a dasher post in this forum.

Still unsure how to replace the gear oil. Got any tips? Speedo hole? Is that what the black cap is covering on the above pic?


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[B1-16V]

Sorry for the crude phot edit, best I could do in a hurry.
When you remove that fill insert, you should feel fluid just at that level. Fill on level ground until the fluid just starts to come out.
If you don't have that special 17mm Allen head tool, you can take an extra lug bolt and put a nut on it super tight, then use that as a tool.

 

[the vegenator]

Oh hell yeah- thanks so much! Now that everything is in the car I’m just having a hard time figuring out the trans. That markup makes all the difference.

Im very familiar with the transverse 020 gear boxes but this was just a different ball game. I think I got it now.


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[the vegenator]

Ok, here’s that part in question that fell from the pedal cluster area. Anyone know what this part is!

If I had to posit a guess, It looks like it would have had a bushing on it that connects to the accelerator cable, and then this small post would fit into the pedal bushing. Like, this is a weighted connector (since the quantum pedal doesn’t have a weight). Am I wrong? The only etka illustration i saw doesn’t show anything like it.

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[QuantumMechanic]

Clutch cable bushings bracket.... you probably have a couple round orange or grey foam looking things that are rooted around the edges and middle lying on the floorboard...

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[QuantumMechanic]

Damnit... accelerator, not clutch... you need 2

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[QuantumMechanic]

One fits in the hole in the top of the pedal and that pin on the bracket fits inside it, other one for the cable end.

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