[QuantumMechanic]

Those sealed beam lights are horrible. You should at least get some LED lights that fit in there. The light output makes those cars look like they need a new alternator all the time.
But congrats! I love seeing another Q on the road!

Sent from my Radio Shack TRS-80

 

[32B]

Nice man, you are missing wiper bolt covers (plastic caps). Find ones from mk2 golf probably also mk1 will fit. If youre gonna keep that bumper, heat gun over it and apply black shoe paste works great and lasts long (mine are 2 years and counting didnt fade). Also i see your sun visor carriers are probably broken mk2 golf/jetta fit.

 

[the vegenator]

So, the starter gets the car going but once the engine is hot it just doesn’t crank fast enough to start it. Interstate battery is charged up. All ground points connected and all positive and negative connections are clean. I don’t think the belts are TOO tight (one of the troubleshooting tips in the Bentley). But I do know the compression on this diesel motor is pretty damn good, so it makes sense that once it’s warmed up the original starter just gets lazy.

I have a new starter from partsplace showing up any minute. I’m going to also replace the positive wire with new, and maybe throw an extra ground strap in.

Main issue is getting the old one out. They really don’t make it easy on this longitudinal motor, but I’m working on removing that mount bracket so I can get to it. Got my engine hoist pulling the motor up so I can get that bracket off. Anyone got any tips on all that?

—-

Another question for y’all - I’m adding egt, boost, and oil pressure gauges. But anyone have any solutions on where to mount them? I’m leaving them resting in the console for now. I kind of don’t want to remove the ash tray and lighter since everything looks good as stock. But that may be the route I take.

——

Regarding the aesthetic stuff-
Yeah I noticed the wiper covers but didn’t realize the mk2 covers would fit.

I got some new halogen sealed beam headlights off rock auto because I wasn’t sure what decent led options existed. Also picked up all four sets of headlight adjusters off aliexpress. Came a week later somehow. Going to put all that in today.

And yes- I still need to refresh the bumpers. Going to wash/degrease, heat gun, then Adam’s VRT polish. Also getting a new set of chrome trim for the bumpers.

I’m buying new window scraper seals from Germany. And Someone tipped me off to Autozone chrome tape being a good replacement for the window surround chrome. Good option for this car.

I’ll get ‘er lookin decent before long.


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[Willi-The-Red13]

So, the starter gets the car going but once the engine is hot it just doesn’t crank fast enough to start it. Interstate battery is charged up. All ground points connected and all positive and negative connections are clean. I don’t think the belts are TOO tight (one of the troubleshooting tips in the Bentley). But I do know the compression on this diesel motor is pretty damn good, so it makes sense that once it’s warmed up the original starter just gets lazy.

I have a new starter from partsplace showing up any minute. I’m going to also replace the positive wire with new, and maybe throw an extra ground strap in.

Main issue is getting the old one out. They really don’t make it easy on this longitudinal motor, but I’m working on removing that mount bracket so I can get to it. Got my engine hoist pulling the motor up so I can get that bracket off. Anyone got any tips on all that?

—-

Another question for y’all - I’m adding egt, boost, and oil pressure gauges. But anyone have any solutions on where to mount them? I’m leaving them resting in the console for now. I kind of don’t want to remove the ash tray and lighter since everything looks good as stock. But that may be the route I take.

——

Regarding the aesthetic stuff-
Yeah I noticed the wiper covers but didn’t realize the mk2 covers would fit.

I got some new halogen sealed beam headlights off rock auto because I wasn’t sure what decent led options existed. Also picked up all four sets of headlight adjusters off aliexpress. Came a week later somehow. Going to put all that in today.

And yes- I still need to refresh the bumpers. Going to wash/degrease, heat gun, then Adam’s VRT polish. Also getting a new set of chrome trim for the bumpers.

I’m buying new window scraper seals from Germany. And Someone tipped me off to Autozone chrome tape being a good replacement for the window surround chrome. Good option for this car.

I’ll get ‘er lookin decent before long.


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Starter replacement on a Turbo Diesel in the Quantum ets is a "Gold Plated B-tch" if it has A?C , it's easier to do if you can swing the A/C compressor out of the way it's way easier. Been there Done that Got the Stupid Tshirt.

 

[32B]

As for the boost gauge, just use a plastic T and connect it to that hose that goes from intake to the Bosch pump, run the hose through "choke" hole in the firewall. I've mounted mine on the dash with doublesided tape for plastic trim as I dont want to drill the dash. I've placed it above the vent hole for the driver side window. And EGT gauge same with tape under the ignition on that ridge of the dashboard. I didn't go with an oil pressure gauge, seems a bit too much for me. I just made sure that the oil pump is good (installed a bigger new one), and checked oil pressure sensors on the back of the head for low pressure low rpm, and oil pressure sensor on the oil filter housing for high pressure/rpm it even buzzes if you go above 2.5 3k rpm with low oil pressure.
Starter replacement didn't seem that bad for me, had to remove the exhaust manifold for easier access. But you do have A/C i assume, so good luck.

If the starter on the car is an original one, and only thing wrong with it are brushes i would just replace them as the original build quality is way better than anything else.

 

[the vegenator]

I WANT MY SHIRT. That’s the prize for changing this starter right?

3pm to 1 am with a dinner break of falafel. I did do a couple other things, but most of my time was spent removing and reinstalling the motor mount and turbo/manifold. Having that stuff out of the way gave me all the room in the world.

Had a brief snafu with the starter bushing showing up smashed, but I found a new one in town.

New Starter performs beautifully. I have many smashed knuckles to show for it.

Look at the difference though:

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[the vegenator]

As for the boost gauge, just use a plastic T and connect it to that hose that goes from intake to the Bosch pump, run the hose through "choke" hole in the firewall. I've mounted mine on the dash with doublesided tape for plastic trim as I dont want to drill the dash. I've placed it above the vent hole for the driver side window. And EGT gauge same with tape under the ignition on that ridge of the dashboard. I didn't go with an oil pressure gauge, seems a bit too much for me. I just made sure that the oil pump is good (installed a bigger new one), and checked oil pressure sensors on the back of the head for low pressure low rpm, and oil pressure sensor on the oil filter housing for high pressure/rpm it even buzzes if you go above 2.5 3k rpm with low oil pressure.
Starter replacement didn't seem that bad for me, had to remove the exhaust manifold for easier access. But you do have A/C i assume, so good luck.

If the starter on the car is an original one, and only thing wrong with it are brushes i would just replace them as the original build quality is way better than anything else.

I have the gauges sitting in the console for now but I do like the idea of keeping them in plain site, especially for the egt gauge- primarily trying not to blow up the NA engine with the turbo add ons and I’m already getting to 1100 degrees at full throttle and load in third gear. I’ve heard 1200 is the cutoff.

So yeah, maybe routing on the dash would be a better idea. Just doesn’t seem as appealing.

The only reason I was worried about oil pressure is because when this engine was on my jetta I upgraded the alternator to one that had a W Terminal hook up. I hooked the blue wire up and started getting oil pressure buzzing. So naturally I just unplugged it and kept driving it. I think I may have had the wrong sensors in place. But either way I’ve had no oil pressure lights or buzzers on since starting and testing out the quantum.

The new starter is a dream. Starts instantly hot or cold. Well, maybe not cold - there’s a leak on the IP at the cold start valve that I need to address. I may send the pump to Advance Diesel in Huntsville and throw on my old NA pump for now. I would reseal the pump myself but I need to take some things off my plate.


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[the vegenator]

Isn’t she lovely?

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[32B]

So we are the same with having turboed our NAs. For na its 650 to 700 C idk what in farenh..

If its buzzing that means that the high oil pressure sensor wire is not getting ground (probably a dead sensor). Try just grounding the wire to the engine and revving above 1800rpm, if everything is okay its most likely a dead sensor(white), if still buzzes wire is messed up somewhere.

Oil Pressure Warning System (Idiot Light/Buzzer) Explained | Gowesty

www.gowesty.com

From my research:

Injectors NA 135bar TD 155bar
Compression 25bar or more
EGT max NA 650-700C TD 820-850C
Turbo pressures KKK K24/T3 max 1.5 bar with ic, without ic 1bar max.

 

[Willi-The-Red13]

Vince Waldon has a good article about troubleshooting the dynamic oil pressure warning system HOWTO: Diagnose the Dynamic Oil Pressure Warning System - VinceWaldon.com

 

[the vegenator]

I just got back from a trip to Mk2 Mayday. 250 miles in total this weekend and the quantum was a dream to drive.

I ended up throwing my NA pump on while I address my TD pump leaks. With the TD pump I was easily getting 1200 degrees on the EGT in second or third gear at full boost. With the NA pump I have hit 1000 at full blast.

I also got my tach working by soldering some wires where a mouse had chewed up the ribbon on the back of the tach. It is VERY cool to have rpms on a diesel vw.

One thing I also found while going up a long steep mountain hill on the way there was the oil buzzer and warning light. I pulled over and shut off the car. Started back up and kept going. I got the buzzer a couple times in similar scenarios on the way back. High rpms. Steep hills. I’m going to install new oil pressure sensors and also put in my vdo gauge. Fitting it under the turbo oil feed line will be a challenge. But the gauge is the only sure fire way to know what’s going on.

Here’s a shot of a fully loaded up wagon at the campground.

I also put new chrome on the bumper and refreshed the vinyl with heat and polish. Looking fresh.

….especially compared to before:

Otherwise, I also just learned that this car came with power locks. I have no idea how they work, but the vacuum lines going Into the door was my first tip off. Anyone got any tips on how to get it working? And how the heck DOES it work??


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[B1-16V]

The bumpers and new chrome look amazing!

 

[the vegenator]

Hey folks - I have a parts request! Anyone have any quantum crossbars? I need the two slightly shorter upper bars.

And I also have a few questions about the HVAC system and I wanted to push the central door lock question again.

How does the factory central locking system work? I know there is a pump. And there are vacuum lines going into the doors. So, how do are they triggered? Unlocking the driver's door?

On the HVAC - I'm a little unsure on how the system works compared to my MK2. I know there's a heater control valve instead of a diverter flap. I also know theres a vacuum system on the hvac but I'm not really sure how it controls everything. Forgive me if there are other threads but I didn't find much when I looked. Main issue is the controls don't properly divert air where it belongs. Would love to work that out as it gets colder out.