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Pulling a longitudinal engine (and other Q’s)

5K views 52 replies 6 participants last post by  the vegenator 
#1 ·
First time quantum owner, long time admirer. Spent some time removing accessories and unhooking everything. A few head scratching moments. I have a Bentley on order but I was hoping y’all could help me out with some things.

First question - how does the ac compressor unbolt? Do I have to unbolt the whole mounting bracket?

Second q - How do you get this thing out with the trans hooked on? The tie rods are preventing it from lifting up on the back side, and the condenser is restricting movement on the front. I plan to keep ac, but I suppose I can just pull the condenser for now so it gives a little more space to get the engine out.

Now, about these pulleys —- the compressor, crank, and WP pulleys are all lacking any kind of tensioners. I’ve read about this before but don’t remember what the story is. Is there a way to adjust these? Or do I just have to unbolt the pulleys??





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#40 ·
I got the car running and on the road after all my shifter bushings came in. Last night I got the remaining trim and light components on.

Unbelievably, I pulled the turn signal bezels from a junkyard last year. The passenger side lens was good, but the driver side had crumbled. A nice man I met through Instagram sent me the driver side lens, As well as a from headlight retainer I was missing. I also pulled the hood Trim components from the junkyard car. Not the best looking variety, and it needs to be cleaned up, but it’s good to see it all back to stock.





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#43 ·
So, the starter gets the car going but once the engine is hot it just doesn’t crank fast enough to start it. Interstate battery is charged up. All ground points connected and all positive and negative connections are clean. I don’t think the belts are TOO tight (one of the troubleshooting tips in the Bentley). But I do know the compression on this diesel motor is pretty damn good, so it makes sense that once it’s warmed up the original starter just gets lazy.

I have a new starter from partsplace showing up any minute. I’m going to also replace the positive wire with new, and maybe throw an extra ground strap in.

Main issue is getting the old one out. They really don’t make it easy on this longitudinal motor, but I’m working on removing that mount bracket so I can get to it. Got my engine hoist pulling the motor up so I can get that bracket off. Anyone got any tips on all that?

—-

Another question for y’all - I’m adding egt, boost, and oil pressure gauges. But anyone have any solutions on where to mount them? I’m leaving them resting in the console for now. I kind of don’t want to remove the ash tray and lighter since everything looks good as stock. But that may be the route I take.

——

Regarding the aesthetic stuff-
Yeah I noticed the wiper covers but didn’t realize the mk2 covers would fit.

I got some new halogen sealed beam headlights off rock auto because I wasn’t sure what decent led options existed. Also picked up all four sets of headlight adjusters off aliexpress. Came a week later somehow. Going to put all that in today.

And yes- I still need to refresh the bumpers. Going to wash/degrease, heat gun, then Adam’s VRT polish. Also getting a new set of chrome trim for the bumpers.

I’m buying new window scraper seals from Germany. And Someone tipped me off to Autozone chrome tape being a good replacement for the window surround chrome. Good option for this car.

I’ll get ‘er lookin decent before long.


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#44 ·
So, the starter gets the car going but once the engine is hot it just doesn’t crank fast enough to start it. Interstate battery is charged up. All ground points connected and all positive and negative connections are clean. I don’t think the belts are TOO tight (one of the troubleshooting tips in the Bentley). But I do know the compression on this diesel motor is pretty damn good, so it makes sense that once it’s warmed up the original starter just gets lazy.

I have a new starter from partsplace showing up any minute. I’m going to also replace the positive wire with new, and maybe throw an extra ground strap in.

Main issue is getting the old one out. They really don’t make it easy on this longitudinal motor, but I’m working on removing that mount bracket so I can get to it. Got my engine hoist pulling the motor up so I can get that bracket off. Anyone got any tips on all that?

—-

Another question for y’all - I’m adding egt, boost, and oil pressure gauges. But anyone have any solutions on where to mount them? I’m leaving them resting in the console for now. I kind of don’t want to remove the ash tray and lighter since everything looks good as stock. But that may be the route I take.

——

Regarding the aesthetic stuff-
Yeah I noticed the wiper covers but didn’t realize the mk2 covers would fit.

I got some new halogen sealed beam headlights off rock auto because I wasn’t sure what decent led options existed. Also picked up all four sets of headlight adjusters off aliexpress. Came a week later somehow. Going to put all that in today.

And yes- I still need to refresh the bumpers. Going to wash/degrease, heat gun, then Adam’s VRT polish. Also getting a new set of chrome trim for the bumpers.

I’m buying new window scraper seals from Germany. And Someone tipped me off to Autozone chrome tape being a good replacement for the window surround chrome. Good option for this car.

I’ll get ‘er lookin decent before long.


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Starter replacement on a Turbo Diesel in the Quantum ets is a "Gold Plated B-tch" if it has A?C , it's easier to do if you can swing the A/C compressor out of the way it's way easier. Been there Done that Got the Stupid Tshirt.
 
#45 ·
As for the boost gauge, just use a plastic T and connect it to that hose that goes from intake to the Bosch pump, run the hose through "choke" hole in the firewall. I've mounted mine on the dash with doublesided tape for plastic trim as I dont want to drill the dash. I've placed it above the vent hole for the driver side window. And EGT gauge same with tape under the ignition on that ridge of the dashboard. I didn't go with an oil pressure gauge, seems a bit too much for me. I just made sure that the oil pump is good (installed a bigger new one), and checked oil pressure sensors on the back of the head for low pressure low rpm, and oil pressure sensor on the oil filter housing for high pressure/rpm it even buzzes if you go above 2.5 3k rpm with low oil pressure.
Starter replacement didn't seem that bad for me, had to remove the exhaust manifold for easier access. But you do have A/C i assume, so good luck.

If the starter on the car is an original one, and only thing wrong with it are brushes i would just replace them as the original build quality is way better than anything else.
 
#47 ·
I have the gauges sitting in the console for now but I do like the idea of keeping them in plain site, especially for the egt gauge- primarily trying not to blow up the NA engine with the turbo add ons and I’m already getting to 1100 degrees at full throttle and load in third gear. I’ve heard 1200 is the cutoff.

So yeah, maybe routing on the dash would be a better idea. Just doesn’t seem as appealing.

The only reason I was worried about oil pressure is because when this engine was on my jetta I upgraded the alternator to one that had a W Terminal hook up. I hooked the blue wire up and started getting oil pressure buzzing. So naturally I just unplugged it and kept driving it. I think I may have had the wrong sensors in place. But either way I’ve had no oil pressure lights or buzzers on since starting and testing out the quantum.

The new starter is a dream. Starts instantly hot or cold. Well, maybe not cold - there’s a leak on the IP at the cold start valve that I need to address. I may send the pump to Advance Diesel in Huntsville and throw on my old NA pump for now. I would reseal the pump myself but I need to take some things off my plate.


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#46 ·
I WANT MY SHIRT. That’s the prize for changing this starter right?

3pm to 1 am with a dinner break of falafel. I did do a couple other things, but most of my time was spent removing and reinstalling the motor mount and turbo/manifold. Having that stuff out of the way gave me all the room in the world.

Had a brief snafu with the starter bushing showing up smashed, but I found a new one in town.

New Starter performs beautifully. I have many smashed knuckles to show for it.

Look at the difference though:




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#51 ·
I just got back from a trip to Mk2 Mayday. 250 miles in total this weekend and the quantum was a dream to drive.

I ended up throwing my NA pump on while I address my TD pump leaks. With the TD pump I was easily getting 1200 degrees on the EGT in second or third gear at full boost. With the NA pump I have hit 1000 at full blast.

I also got my tach working by soldering some wires where a mouse had chewed up the ribbon on the back of the tach. It is VERY cool to have rpms on a diesel vw.




One thing I also found while going up a long steep mountain hill on the way there was the oil buzzer and warning light. I pulled over and shut off the car. Started back up and kept going. I got the buzzer a couple times in similar scenarios on the way back. High rpms. Steep hills. I’m going to install new oil pressure sensors and also put in my vdo gauge. Fitting it under the turbo oil feed line will be a challenge. But the gauge is the only sure fire way to know what’s going on.

Here’s a shot of a fully loaded up wagon at the campground.




I also put new chrome on the bumper and refreshed the vinyl with heat and polish. Looking fresh.




….especially compared to before:




Otherwise, I also just learned that this car came with power locks. I have no idea how they work, but the vacuum lines going Into the door was my first tip off. Anyone got any tips on how to get it working? And how the heck DOES it work??


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#3 ·
First time quantum owner, long time admirer. Spent some time removing accessories and unhooking everything. A few head scratching moments. I have a Bentley on order but I was hoping y’all could help me out with some things.

First question - how does the ac compressor unbolt? Do I have to unbolt the whole mounting bracket?

Second q - How do you get this thing out with the trans hooked on? The tie rods are preventing it from lifting up on the back side, and the condenser is restricting movement on the front. I plan to keep ac, but I suppose I can just pull the condenser for now so it gives a little more space to get the engine out.

Now, about these pulleys —- the compressor, crank, and WP pulleys are all lacking any kind of tensioners. I’ve read about this before but don’t remember what the story is. Is there a way to adjust these? Or do I just have to unbolt the pulleys??





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Oo FrankenWagen I removed everything from the crankshaft but the first pulley (Water pump) also had to twist shove to get it in or out
 
#5 ·
I’ll look into hoisting my car up with the chain fall and lowering it… also tempted to remove the trans but that seems like a nightmare given spatial constraints.

Having a hard time picturing how shimming a pulley forward will increase tension, but I’ll learn a lot more when the Bentley manual shows up In a few days.


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#8 ·
I’ll look into hoisting my car up with the chain fall and lowering it… also tempted to remove the trans but that seems like a nightmare given spatial constraints.

Having a hard time picturing how shimming a pulley forward will increase tension, but I’ll learn a lot more when the Bentley manual shows up In a few days.


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If you have the room dropping the engine & transmission bolted together is faster & easier that trying to get it out through the top. Biggest problem with doing that is you drop the U shaped rear engine & transmission sub frame with the engine & trans bolted to it. The lower control arms bolt to it so you can't move your car around on its 4 wheels while the sub frame is out & you have to put jack stands in to support the front end.
 
#9 ·
I’m very close to wrapping up my engine install. Built up a “new” motor using an NA long block I rebuilt a few years ago. MLS head gasket, ARP head studs. Everything reattached and dropped in. I’m not going nuts on it because I just want to get it together assuming that the block was the only previous issue.

I have a couple questions though… info on the quantum seems to be lacking out on the WWW. And the Bentley is also lacking much info for the quantum (compared to the mk2).

- I failed to drain/fill the gear box when it was out so no I need to do that with it in. No telling how old the gear oil is. I see the drain plug but wasn’t sure where to fill. Any tips?

- I was also scratching my head on where the speedo cable goes. There’s a spot on the top of the trans between the axle flanges but it has a black cap that fits into the hole.

- The accelerator cable came off the pedal because the bushing disintegrated. and when I pulled the foam/pressed board lower dash cover a weighted thing fell down that looks like it might be for the pedal. Anyone have experience with how the cable links up to the pedal? I put a bushing off my mk2 pedal cluster on it and didn’t do anything with the pot metal weighted piece. The IP lever has full travel, but the pedal itself does NOT go to the button on the floor.

- the shifter linkage bushings are mostly toast. Barring some NOS bushing kit sitting on a shelf somewhere, I’m curious if anyone knows of similar kits or bushings that will work with the quantum.

Thanks!





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#10 ·
Oh also I thank you all for the help and advice on how to pull the engine out. Ended up dropping the suspension and lowering the engine and trans onto a furniture dolly.

I read in the Bentley that says you’re supposed to be able to pull the engine and trans up and out with the hood still on. I don’t believe that one but. Hahah


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#11 ·
Oh also I thank you all for the help and advice on how to pull the engine out. Ended up dropping the suspension and lowering the engine and trans onto a furniture dolly.

I read in the Bentley that says you’re supposed to be able to pull the engine and trans up and out with the hood still on. I don’t believe that one but. Hahah


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Welcome to the "Quantum Club" , if you look at my FrankenWagen thread you'll see my project. What year is yours?
 
#14 ·
Ooo I’m not familiar but I suppose I’ll soon find out.

I bought a couple shifter bushings on eBay this morning. Lucky to find those. One of the links was on a dasher post in this forum.

Still unsure how to replace the gear oil. Got any tips? Speedo hole? Is that what the black cap is covering on the above pic?


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#16 ·
Oh hell yeah- thanks so much! Now that everything is in the car I’m just having a hard time figuring out the trans. That markup makes all the difference.

Im very familiar with the transverse 020 gear boxes but this was just a different ball game. I think I got it now.


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#17 ·
Ok, here’s that part in question that fell from the pedal cluster area. Anyone know what this part is!

If I had to posit a guess, It looks like it would have had a bushing on it that connects to the accelerator cable, and then this small post would fit into the pedal bushing. Like, this is a weighted connector (since the quantum pedal doesn’t have a weight). Am I wrong? The only etka illustration i saw doesn’t show anything like it.




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