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Discussion Starter #1
I will be autocrossing my 83 Rabbit this year would like to know what some of you are using for suspension or would suggest. Bilsteins, Koni's, Shine, Coilovers, spring rates whatever.
I'll be using a rear 28mm sway bar, stock in the front, poly bushings, 13x8 wheels
the car is gutted with a 2.0 16 valve making a lot of power.....or so i hope
Any help would be great before i spend all my money.
 

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Re: Rabbit autox suggestions (coneracer)

Quote, originally posted by coneracer »
I will be autocrossing my 83 Rabbit this year would like to know what some of you are using for suspension or would suggest. Bilsteins, Koni's, Shine, Coilovers, spring rates whatever.
I'll be using a rear 28mm sway bar, stock in the front, poly bushings, 13x8 wheels
the car is gutted with a 2.0 16 valve making a lot of power.....or so i hope
Any help would be great before i spend all my money.

sounds like you've got certain things worked out already.
i run shine's full race setup, bilstein group 1 race shocks with coilovers, shine rear bar, no front bar..... some other goodies. if you are building a dedicated autox car, you'll end up with springs stiff enough to support running no front bar...
 

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Re: Rabbit autox suggestions (coneracer)

We have a guy in our region running an 84 similar to yours.
Do you have a full cage? It will benifit your car more than anything as the body will flex tremendously with the setup and power you are running.
He runs Koni's and his car is tight. He says they are full soft right know and there is zero body roll.
He's also going to be running webers at the next event as he's running cis-e and huge cams so he's running a bit lean. This is with 50mm intake and euro injection also.
What class are you running?
What tires are you going to use?
I have some pictures of him here:


Its a badass bunny fo sho.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: Rabbit autox suggestions (Lofi)

I plan on having a cage installed this summer. I know it's gonna add weight but the extra stiffness and safety i feel outweigh the added weight

I'm not sure which class i'll be running just yet, the canadian classes are different than SCCA, probably one of the FSP classes.
I plan on running Victoracer v700 and i'll have a set of Azenis.
I plan on using the Shine camber plates with some Koni yellows i just need to decide on the springs and rates.
Thanks for the info and the sweet pics http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif


Modified by coneracer at 2:46 AM 5-17-2003
 

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Re: Rabbit autox suggestions (coneracer)

Quote »
I plan on having a cage installed this summer. I know it's gonna add weight but the extra stiffness and safety i feel outweigh the added weight

it really depends... i think if you were to look at the fastest FSP cars in the US, most of them don't have cages -- lighter is faster, and once you get to that level people start with the oldest (77 ish) rabbits and do every allowable mod under the rules. heavy cars don't win in the highest levels of competition.
it would certainly make it stiffer, and safer though.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: Rabbit autox suggestions (John A)

John A said:
it really depends... i think if you were to look at the fastest FSP cars in the US, most of them don't have cages -- lighter is faster, and once you get to that level people start with the oldest (77 ish) rabbits and do every allowable mod under the rules. heavy cars don't win in the highest levels of competition.
it would certainly make it stiffer, and safer though.
This is true, and it is a tough decision. However i will drive this car on the streets occasionaly and with all the SUV's and tourist's (Niagara Falls) that are out there it seems worth it especially when driving a sub 1800lb car. I also plan on track days and solo 1.
But this is still the build up and planning stage
 

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Re: Rabbit autox suggestions (coneracer)

driving a car with a full cage on the street isn't a great idea, unless you're driving around with a helmet on....
just a reminder.
 

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Re: Rabbit autox suggestions (coneracer)

Canada will let you run in FSP with a rabbitt 2.0l 16v???
WOW your classes are really screwqed up then.
 

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Re: Rabbit autox suggestions (Lofi)

Quote, originally posted by Lofi »
Canada will let you run in FSP with a rabbitt 2.0l 16v???
WOW your classes are really screwqed up then.

We run a WHOLE different set of rules up here.
 

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Re: Rabbit autox suggestions (markertoo)

coneracer, ot, my dad will up in Niagaga next weekend with about 650 other PT Cruiser owners.
 

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Re: Rabbit autox suggestions (coneracer)

I am running an 84' rabbit next year with:
Shine springs (500lb front)
Bilstien sport
Shine spherical bearings
Scirocco 16v rear brakes and rear sway bar
Front and rear upper stress bars
Front lower 4pt stress bar
Only the driver's seat and dash are still in the car.
No front sway bar.
For power I'm using a stock JH with small turbo
Tranny is 4sp from diesel ,..still need a diff
Rims, tires, and alignment I'm still thinking about.......I may use 13X8 wheels if i don't get bigger brakes,....still decieding
I've run in stock classes for the last 3yrs and won a season trophy in the humble H stock. I 've sharpened my teeth in the slower classes so i could work on my driving skills. Now i'm ready to go FAST.
I just want to have fun at the local level. I think my setup is E mod it's somekind of MOD class that's for sure.
 

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Re: Rabbit autox suggestions (E&N)

i probably wouldn't run 500's on bilstein sports, unless they are revalved. most people run springs that high on the bilstein group1 / rally shock.
 

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Re: Rabbit autox suggestions (John A)

i probably wouldn't run 500's on bilstein sports, unless they are revalved. most people run springs that high on the bilstein group1 / rally shock.

Those shocks are too expensive for me THIS year I'm approaching the edge of my budget about now.,....revalved??
ok..you talked me into it. I have two sets of bilstein sport so I'll send one back to bilstein for rebuild/revalveing (pending price quote). I'm tring to set the car up the way Shine Racing Services requemends. I would use a setup more identical to yours,...but I'm only going for local (1st year) / maybe state (2nd - 3rd year) compitition ,...and I'm on a budget. My bilsteins are not new anyways (I got all four for $25 ea. and 4 rears $15 ea.) at pull-a-part in CALI.,...... ANYWAYS,......They'll be in top form if I have them rebuilt and revalved by bilstein.
Questions....1. How much to revalve, and/or rebuild
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=579942
This link says I can get them revalved for $40 ea. I can afford that.

2. How to determine 'new' valve specs
I'll call in a few hours when they open and see what they say...
I see in your signature you have won a race or two,..I highly respect and appreciate your advice.
thanks.......................E&N


Modified by E&N at 5:06 AM 6-16-2003
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Re: Rabbit autox suggestions (E&N)

So every one is clear i am not positive which clas my rabbit will be in. The FSP class was just a quick thought. The classes here are different than SCCA, i do beleive they are a little more open to mods. I will check to make sure which class i fall into so that the comparisons can be made.
Thanks to everyone for their usefull info.
E&N, John A good luck this season, my car might not hit the pavement til late in the season, i got this bright idea to buy a new house which is gonna slow things down.
 

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Re: Rabbit autox suggestions (coneracer)

So every one is clear i am not positive which clas my rabbit will be in.
Well Coneracer, I'm not either. The first year in my new race car is ALL about FUN, I'm going to 'auto-x around my car' as opposed to .building my car around auto-x'. This is not a good way to be competitive. Keep this in mind, because if you want to be competitive, it may help to choose a class first,..THEN build the car to the limits of that class. To be really competitive at anything but the local level you'll need all the mods/parts allowed by your class. Also since a house purchase may limit your race car budget,....it's even more important to choose a class first, look at all parts/mods allowable,..and get a total price tag. The closer to stock class the cheaper the project will be. (less stuff to buy) I think to be very competitive you should:
1. pick a class first
2. choose a proven competitive chassis(in that class)
3. Build, and mod the car to the limits of that class
A good example of what COULD happen if this advise was not followed by me in my 2000 H STOCK season is this:
1.I added only a upgraded ECU to my 99' TDI JETTA. +35HP, +85flbs
This chip affects boost so the car goes to mod class and gets spanked.
2. I add springs, and go to (our) FSP.
In FSP this car gets spanked real hard by much lighter, cars with similar power.
In stock class I was allowed to change:
1. tires/wheels within limits
2. shocks,..(but not springs)
3. Cat-back exhaust
4. K&N panel filter
5. Stress bars,..(but not sway bars)
6. Alignment specs
I had every mod allowable in stock class and needed every one as the civics in H STOCK were lighter and handled better. Latter after I had won the season points, I did try FSP with the addition of springs and was spanked real good.
I race with M & J VOLKSWORKS auto-x team of about 5 and we'er really trying to spread out our cars over the classes of our local auto-x club. I like it that way,...we can take multiple trophys at events.
The owner,..who taught me and most of the other guys how to drive, gave me my first advice: Start closer to the stock class, in a less powerfull car. This way you car work on your driving skills. Try to make it smooth,..smooth is fast.
(I wanted to start my first season ever in MOD)
E&N
 
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