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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello. I am putting this together to save people wanting to retrofit this radio a whole lot of time. This retrofit requires a little bit of vw and electrical knowledge.

This relates to the 187B "no name" with CarPlay model. May or may not apply to the Dessay brand one. Also, this pertains to North American cars as I do not know anything about ROW cars.

First, to set the expectation... this radio is fantastic. It is a great upgrade for those with the base radio. It is not a RNS "like" unit, but CarPlay is life changing.

So, here we go...

1. Is it plug and play?

No. It may look like it on 2015 and older but it is not. The 12 pin blocks are not pinned the same. I recommend repinning the wires on a new quadlock. I used a Scosche VW03RB. It is cheaper than getting one of those harness things and looks better.

Radio wire blocks are the same, power and can are the same. If you are retrofitting this to a 2016+ car you are going to have to move things around and get creative. I had to made some mini harnesses for the can and power as they are not the same size.

The 12 pin block under the speakers is for the camera. It is a component camera connection. Pin 6 is positive and pin 12 is negative. See next question about cameras.

The block under the power and can is for a mic. Pin 1 is negative and pin 7 is positive.

2. Will my factory rear camera work?

No. On 2015 and older you will need a RGB to CBVS adapter. On 2016+ cars, although the cameras are component, they just plain do not work with the 330.

I recommend replacing it with a good aftermarket RCA camera. You can purchase one that fits and looks just like my factory camera in the trunk handle.

If you are replacing a 2015 or older camera you will probably also need to purchase or make a delay timer. Check aliexpress. The 330 requires power to the camera for 8 seconds after shifting out of reverse or you will get a error on the unit.

For 2016+ cars you can use the factory connections the old camera connected to. No timer or anything needed.

I actually disassembled my factory lock handle and replaced just the camera. A Metra BBBPC camera fits perfect.

**Edit** although this woeked, the angle was all wrong so I replaced the entire handle with an aftermarket handle camera (see below).

3. I have a car older than 2012iah, what do I need?

You will need to upgrade your CAN gateway or purchase a canbus simulator specific to the 330. If not, your battery will die... or the radio... or both.

4. Coding this thing?

The proper coding for the unit is
16 00 04 40 00 05

40 at block 4 enables the reverse camera.

If you have Fender change block 2 to 01. If you have Dynaudio change block 2 to 05. On either you will also have to change block 3 to 00.

I used a OBDeleven and had to go to Radio-56, switch to development mode in service to change block 2.

In all aspects of coding our NA VW's consider these to be RCD-510's and you can use the same code labels in VCDS.

5. What about steering wheel controls and Dash screen?

On 2012+ cars all controls work fine. As long as you have 6 or more buttons per side. Older cars will need a canbus simulator.

There is no Center screen display of anything on any car. Don't know why. Don't care because I never used it.

6. What else should I know?

If you have a factory media thing in the glove box or console, it will not work. Remove it and sell on eBay. Same with CarNet.

If you had Bluetooth prior to switching to the 330, go under the passenger seat and remove the Bluetooth module and sell it on eBay. It will interfere with the 330. You will also have to code the old Bluetooth out of the gateway.

If you have a external USB or aux in. Sorry, it won't work. My 2017 Passat has a single USB in front of the shifter. I retrofitted it to be a power only USB by removing the old USB plug, taking it apart. I found that the innerds of a TomTom GPS cigarette USB adapter fits perfectly inside the old plugs plastic housing. From there in tapped power from the cigarette lighter.

Summary. For most it is a pretty easy upgrade especially if you are coming from a base model. If you care about cameras And extra stuff it is going to be a challenge.

I have a 2017 Passat that I removed the base composition color. I spent about 30 hours on research and installation. My system works like a friggin charm. It can be done and it is amazing.



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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Here are the steps to retrofit a 330 into a 2016 or newer Jetta/Passat/ etc.

Re: MIB2 harness connector

Order this camera or similar:


KOEN CMOS Waterproof Car Reverse Rear View Backup Camera for VW Audi, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XYDLY93/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_IDZAmWXqake9j

You will also need this:

RF design RF Pigtail Cable Green Fakra "E" Female and Male to RCA Female Connector RG174 15CM GPS antenna connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZWXK6O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_LercOIEskXzAr

You will also need a RL41 relay. Can get online or at auto parts store.

You may or may not need a obd11. Depends on if the seller coded the rear camera for you or not. I would hold off and see before buying. You can order it in the states from deustche auto parts and get it in two days. I have to say though, I love my obd11.

So, here are the steps to retrofit.

Retrofit the quadlock. Take your factory quad and move the speakers over to the same spot on the new one. Pop out all the remaining small blocks.

The green block is for USB port in your console that will no longer work, so just push that away.

The gray plug is the can bus. I purchased some small pin ends from Frys and added them to the ends of the wires I popped out of the aftermarket harness. There are only two wires in the gray harness and that is your can bus. So plug the positive canbus (top pin, 6 I think) cable you made into the gray block and pop the other big pin side into the top left slot next to the speakers. You can see it on my picture (red wire). Do the same for the negative canbus and plug it in right under the first (brown wire in my picture).

You will also have to adapt the power and the ground using the same method. The ground plugs into the bottom slot below the can bus plugs. The k-line power goes in the next row, second from the bottom. It will be in-between the can lines and the ground, just on the next row.

This leaves you with one factory connector left.. a blue one. Move pins 6 (clear wire) and 12 (black) over to the new block in the same position (right under speakers). The remaining two wires are the microphone. You are going to move those over to the block next to the camera at pin 1 and 7. These pins are reverse so black wire at top, white wire at bottom.

After you have done this plug your new fancy harness in and the radio should power. You may have to press the power button the first time. If the outside tempersture does not show on the display at the top right, then flip your canbus pins and reset the unit by holding the power key for at least 10 seconds.

If it all comes on, you can install back in dash and tidy all that up.

From here, I have not tested the dessay unit, so I would try your factory camera and see if you get anything. Just put it into reverse and see if you get anything. Make sure your trunk is closed. My best is it will not work or it will be all scrambled.

Next step is to move to the trunk. Remove the trim panel covering the brake lights etc. Poke around and you should see the camera and handle up there. Unplug the factory harness and remove. You can go ahead and put the new camera in. The other end of that handle harness plugs into a 5 pin connector over to the right. Unplig that.

Take apart the factory harness as you will need to free the cables going to the trunk switch. Remove pins 3,4,5 from the end connector. They are yellow, black and red. Those are for the factory camera.

Now grab that relay you bought. You need to make a wire (I reused one from the quadlock kit) and run it from the ground pin (where black wire was plugged in) on the harness to the pin marked 85. You will also connect the ground from the camera here.

Next make a wire and run from where the yellow wire was plugged in and connect it to pin 30 on the relay. This is your reverse trigger.

Next make a wire and run from where the red wire was plugged in and connect it to pin 86 on the relay. This is your constant power.

Finally plug the red cable from the camera onto pin 87 on the relay.

Below the power connector on the trunk you will see a gray connector in a green holder. Pop that off and unplug the two parts. This is your video cable. By now you should be able to completely move the old camera away. Remove the gray fakra connector on the end so you see the bare connection. Take the adapter you bought and remove the green end off the male connector. It is the smaller one. Now plug there two together and electrical tape them. Plug the RCA from the new camera into this adapter. Ignore the little red wire popping out of the RCA cable end as we are not going to use it.

Now you have a big mess in your trunk. Tidy up your wires. I cable tied all the excess camera wire and cable tied it inside the trunk lid. I also used the covering I took off the original harness Bs wrapped the remaining wires. Also make sure to electrical tape your relay as if it touches metal you will be searching to find the fuse you blew.

After you tidy it all up close the trunk. Reset your radio again and test. You should get video.

If you don't you might have to go to the video connector in the trunk and on the original female side, take a tiny screwdriver and push the little pin eonnectors together a but.

I know this sounds like a lot of work... And it is, but the result is awesome.

And bonus, sell your old radio and camera on eBay and recoup much of your investment.
 

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I've just installed a RCD330G (187B version) in my 2015 Beetle, and made the backup camera change in OBDEleven (great alternative to VCDS) no problem. However, I've been unable to make the changes needed for Fender audio, even in development mode.

Are there any tricks to this that I'm missing?

Cheers!
 

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Oh, one other thing. No need for the camera delay circuit if you get a camera that support auto on/off by detecting camera link. Most of the Sony CCD, license plate light cameras on Aliexpress seem to do this (Search "vw sony ccd").

Only trick is that the camera needs to be wired to ACC power, and not the reverse light. So ground wire in trunk, and use the "trigger" line on the RCA cable to power +12v.
 

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So for 2013 Jetta do I need to move around plugs or will the radio plug just work directly.


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Oh, one other thing. No need for the camera delay circuit if you get a camera that support auto on/off by detecting camera link. Most of the Sony CCD, license plate light cameras on Aliexpress seem to do this (Search "vw sony ccd").

Only trick is that the camera needs to be wired to ACC power, and not the reverse light. So ground wire in trunk, and use the "trigger" line on the RCA cable to power +12v.
Can you explain what you mean by use the trigger line on the RCA to power the +12V?

So there is a red wire on the radio RCA side that by default doesn't plug into anything. So if my camera supports on / off via camera link, how do I give it power instead of leveraging the reverse light? Do I tap that red trigger wire into ACC power behind the radio & if so what do I hook the positive wire to in the trunk that would normally get spliced into the reverse light wire?
 

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1. Is it plug and play?
No. It may look like it on 2015 and older but it is not. The 12 pin blocks are not pinned the same. I recommend repinning the wires on a new quadlock. I used a Scosche VW03RB. It is cheaper than getting one of those harness things and looks better.

3. I have a car older than 2012ish, what do I need?
You will need to upgrade your CAN gateway or purchase a canbus simulator specific to the 330. If not, your battery will die... or the radio... or both.

I am not a radio guru. Can you provide further details/links? I have a 2014 Jetta with no back-up camera or steering wheel controls.
 

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Can you explain what you mean by use the trigger line on the RCA to power the +12V?

So there is a red wire on the radio RCA side that by default doesn't plug into anything. So if my camera supports on / off via camera link, how do I give it power instead of leveraging the reverse light? Do I tap that red trigger wire into ACC power behind the radio & if so what do I hook the positive wire to in the trunk that would normally get spliced into the reverse light wire?
With a self-triggering camera, all you need are +12/gnd. So tie off the ground either to a bolt in the trunk, or the ground line for the tail-light. The +12v is tied to the red wire on the RCA in the trunk, and then t-tapped into the ACC+ wire on the quadlock harness up front, though any ACC wire will do.

 

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Im confused as to why you say this isnt plug and play? I just put one in my 2015 Jetta and simply unplugged the quadlock from my RNS and into the RCD330 and everything works fine(minus rearview of course). Am i missing something? Am i doing harm to the new radio?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Im confused as to why you say this isnt plug and play? I just put one in my 2015 Jetta and simply unplugged the quadlock from my RNS and into the RCD330 and everything works fine(minus rearview of course). Am i missing something? Am i doing harm to the new radio?
It is plug and play on a 2015 or older. 2016 or newer requires some finesse.
 

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Has anyone tried cracking one of these open and soldering in a USB cable to run out the back to a remote jack? I really hate that you have to plug into the face of the head unit.
 

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Questions

Hello. I am putting this together to save people wanting to retrofit this radio a whole lot of time. This retrofit requires a little bit of vw and electrical knowledge.

This relates to the 187B "no name" with CarPlay model. May or may not apply to the Dessay brand one. Also, this pertains to North American cars as I do not know anything about ROW cars.

First, to set the expectation... this radio is fantastic. It is a great upgrade for those with the base radio. It is not a RNS "like" unit, but CarPlay is life changing.

So, here we go...

1. Is it plug and play?

No. It may look like it on 2015 and older but it is not. The 12 pin blocks are not pinned the same. I recommend repinning the wires on a new quadlock. I used a Scosche VW03RB. It is cheaper than getting one of those harness things and looks better.

Radio wire blocks are the same, power and can are the same. If you are retrofitting this to a 2016+ car you are going to have to move things around and get creative. I had to made some mini harnesses for the can and power as they are not the same size.

The 12 pin block under the speakers is for the camera. It is a component camera connection. Pin 6 is positive and pin 12 is negative. See next question about cameras.

The block under the power and can is for a mic. Pin 1 is negative and pin 7 is positive.

2. Will my factory rear camera work?

No. On 2015 and older you will need a RGB to CBVS adapter. On 2016+ cars, although the cameras are component, they just plain do not work with the 330.

I recommend replacing it with a good aftermarket RCA camera. You can purchase one that fits and looks just like my factory camera in the trunk handle.

If you are replacing a 2015 or older camera you will probably also need to purchase or make a delay timer. Check aliexpress. The 330 requires power to the camera for 8 seconds after shifting out of reverse or you will get a error on the unit.

For 2016+ cars you can use the factory connections the old camera connected to. No timer or anything needed.

I actually disassembled my factory lock handle and replaced just the camera. A Metra BBBPC camera fits perfect.

**Edit** although this woeked, the angle was all wrong so I replaced the entire handle with an aftermarket handle camera (see below).

3. I have a car older than 2012iah, what do I need?

You will need to upgrade your CAN gateway or purchase a canbus simulator specific to the 330. If not, your battery will die... or the radio... or both.

4. Coding this thing?

The proper coding for the unit is
16 00 04 40 00 05

40 at block 4 enables the reverse camera.

If you have Fender change block 2 to 01. If you have Dynaudio change block 2 to 05. On either you will also have to change block 3 to 00.

I used a OBDeleven and had to go to Radio-56, switch to development mode in service to change block 2.

In all aspects of coding our NA VW's consider these to be RCD-510's and you can use the same code labels in VCDS.

5. What about steering wheel controls and Dash screen?

On 2012+ cars all controls work fine. As long as you have 6 or more buttons per side. Older cars will need a canbus simulator.

There is no Center screen display of anything on any car. Don't know why. Don't care because I never used it.

6. What else should I know?

If you have a factory media thing in the glove box or console, it will not work. Remove it and sell on eBay. Same with CarNet.

If you had Bluetooth prior to switching to the 330, go under the passenger seat and remove the Bluetooth module and sell it on eBay. It will interfere with the 330. You will also have to code the old Bluetooth out of the gateway.

If you have a external USB or aux in. Sorry, it won't work. My 2017 Passat has a single USB in front of the shifter. I retrofitted it to be a power only USB by removing the old USB plug, taking it apart. I found that the innerds of a TomTom GPS cigarette USB adapter fits perfectly inside the old plugs plastic housing. From there in tapped power from the cigarette lighter.

Summary. For most it is a pretty easy upgrade especially if you are coming from a base model. If you care about cameras And extra stuff it is going to be a challenge.

I have a 2017 Passat that I removed the base composition color. I spent about 30 hours on research and installation. My system works like a friggin charm. It can be done and it is amazing.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Wow, thank you very much for posting this. I recently purchased the exact same 187B stereo from China, but I am struggling installing it into my 2012 Passat with Fender audio system.

I was able to connect it to the factory wiring harness and it powered up fine, but I could not get any sound to the speakers. I believe this has to do with the fact that the Fender system includes an amplifier. Doing some internet research I found an adapter (RadioPro RP4-VW11) that will supposedly help me make the connection maintaining the Fender amplifier.

The problem is that such adapter is connected to after market stereos with bare wires, which the 187B does not have. Reading your post I understand that the Scosche quadlock will allow me to make the connection, right?.

What I couldn't understand is if I need to make any changes to the Scosche wiring or will it work out of the box with the 187B. Could you please clarify (sorry, I am a newbie)?

I don't have a rear view camera, so I believe that the rest of your instructions are not relevant to my case, except perhaps the coding thing?

I would really appreciate if you could help me clarify these questions.

Thanks again.
 

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Just picked up the 187b for my '14 Jetta SE. I noticed that if I plug my iphone into the unit while the car and radio are off, it still connects to carplay. Is this normal and ok? I'm worried about the battery drain mentioned above for '16+.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wow, thank you very much for posting this. I recently purchased the exact same 187B stereo from China, but I am struggling installing it into my 2012 Passat with Fender audio system.

I was able to connect it to the factory wiring harness and it powered up fine, but I could not get any sound to the speakers. I believe this has to do with the fact that the Fender system includes an amplifier. Doing some internet research I found an adapter (RadioPro RP4-VW11) that will supposedly help me make the connection maintaining the Fender amplifier.

The problem is that such adapter is connected to after market stereos with bare wires, which the 187B does not have. Reading your post I understand that the Scosche quadlock will allow me to make the connection, right?.

What I couldn't understand is if I need to make any changes to the Scosche wiring or will it work out of the box with the 187B. Could you please clarify (sorry, I am a newbie)?

I don't have a rear view camera, so I believe that the rest of your instructions are not relevant to my case, except perhaps the coding thing?

I would really appreciate if you could help me clarify these questions.

Thanks again.
Hi. You will not need a new connector because the quadlocks are the same for your car... but you might need to move some wires around.

The 330g will not work with the fender audio out of the box. The only alternative I have found is to purchase an aftermarket AMP and replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Older than 2015's

With your 2014 Jetta, you do not need a new Quadlock.... but you need to check the wiring on the quad to make sure it aligns correctly.

You should only have the yellow wire going to power it. If your red wire is connected to the Quadlock at pin 16, then that is why it is constantly powering. You should not have any canbus issues.

I have noticed, that when I tinker with my 187b it will be stuck in a constant on mode.. to fix that, power cycle the radio with the ignition on... press the power button down and hold it until the unit reboots.

After it fully reboots. turn the ignition, on, then off.

The radio should be off.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Wanted to give everyone a quick update on how my 187B has been running.

For the most part it works great.. I pretty much keep it on Carplay all the them.. But I have run into a problem where when I do listen to the radio, the system will start scanning all the stations by itself. So, I do not know if mine is a defect or not.. but buyer beware on this one....

Update. I found a new firmware online. Version 5314. I flashed that and fixed my issue. You can find it online by googling

https://1drv.ms/u/s!Am8nQJSlrtIAbqYukWiRwvNr9Zw

That is firmware for 187b only.

My next task is to work on this firmware to make some tweaks like removing AM from the radio menu and changing the boot logo.
 

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Hi. You will not need a new connector because the quadlocks are the same for your car... but you might need to move some wires around.

The 330g will not work with the fender audio out of the box. The only alternative I have found is to purchase an aftermarket AMP and replace it.
Wow, thank you very much for posting this. I recently purchased the exact same 187B stereo from China, but I am struggling installing it into my 2012 Passat with Fender audio system.

I was able to connect it to the factory wiring harness and it powered up fine, but I could not get any sound to the speakers. I believe this has to do with the fact that the Fender system includes an amplifier. Doing some internet research I found an adapter (RadioPro RP4-VW11) that will supposedly help me make the connection maintaining the Fender amplifier.

The problem is that such adapter is connected to after market stereos with bare wires, which the 187B does not have. Reading your post I understand that the Scosche quadlock will allow me to make the connection, right?.

What I couldn't understand is if I need to make any changes to the Scosche wiring or will it work out of the box with the 187B. Could you please clarify (sorry, I am a newbie)?

I don't have a rear view camera, so I believe that the rest of your instructions are not relevant to my case, except perhaps the coding thing?

I would really appreciate if you could help me clarify these questions.

Thanks again.


A little late but it does work with Fender!!

Just have to unplug the battery and plug it back in. Don't ask me how but it does.
 

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Wanted to give everyone a quick update on how my 187B has been running.

For the most part it works great.. I pretty much keep it on Carplay all the them.. But I have run into a problem where when I do listen to the radio, the system will start scanning all the stations by itself. So, I do not know if mine is a defect or not.. but buyer beware on this one....

Update. I found a new firmware online. Version 5314. I flashed that and fixed my issue. You can find it online by googling

https://1drv.ms/u/s!Am8nQJSlrtIAbqYukWiRwvNr9Zw

That is firmware for 187b only.

My next task is to work on this firmware to make some tweaks like removing AM from the radio menu and changing the boot logo.
Can you confirm that you tried this and the Radio accepted the coding? (No error 31)

If you have Fender change block 2 to 01. If you have Dynaudio change block 2 to 05. On either you will also have to change block 3 to 00.
 

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please help

Hello,
Looking for help how to restore radio RCD330 + NO NAME to life?
The update was probably stopped :(

Below the link to the movie as it now looks.

https://youtu.be/Mfb-sGWrFv0


Do you have any way to restore the radio to normalcy?

I'm counting on you
Regards
 

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Unfortunately, with radio no name I can not cope. I am still looking for an answer how to restore it to normal use

Wysłane z mojego PRA-LX1 przy użyciu Tapatalka
 
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