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I was curious if anyone has any insight into the stayrods for the rear axle beams which are used on race cars.
My understanding is that these are to minimize any toe movement on the car under load, and I would also expect it to help strengthen the axle beam back at the stub axle piece. I am planning on building a system like this for my car in the next few weeks, so any advice would be helpful. I am planning on welding a bracket to both the axle beam and at the stub axle, then building a adjustable rod, with heim joints for adjustment.
Here is a pic of WWR's setup Hopefully he won't mind. If anyone has any better pictures I would greatly appreciate it.

So after this system is built is the best way to set toe for the car to still use the plastic shims behind the stub axle, or would you use the stayrods to do this. I would assume you would still use the shims and the stayrods are only going to be there for more support.
Thanks


Modified by BluGTIVR at 6:40 PM 11-25-2006
 

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Re: Rear axle beam "stayrods" (VWralley)

no not a lower stress bar, the realm of a sub-frame


The second option for the Mk1 is a four-point connection, which mounts to the front and rear of the control arms. This bar has two cross sections that connect the front to the rear, thus giving maximum stability. Legal for SCCA IMPROVED TOURING class. Our lower stress bars are designed to fit cars with manual transmissions only. Finished in gloss black powder coat.



Modified by quincypunx77 at 7:09 PM 11-25-2006
 

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Re: Rear axle beam "stayrods" (BluGTIVR)

Quote, originally posted by BluGTIVR »
So after this system is built is the best way to set toe for the car to still use the plastic shims behind the stub axle, or would you use the stayrods to do this. I would assume you would still use the shims and the stayrods are only going to be there for more support.

The stayrods are basically to minimize any possibility of trailing arm TOE changes.
Since my race Wabbit used sticky Hoosier racing slicks, I decided to try the rear stayrods.
Whether the rear stayrods are truly needed or not, I can not really say. Without some type of "strain-gauge" measurement of TOE changes under heavy cornering, it is difficult to say how much the rear trailing arm TOE changes.
However I did notice that the rear stayrods seemed to stiffen the rear axle unit. With slightly worn rear slicks, the rear of the Wabbit was loose on several high speed corners. With new rear slicks, the car was neutral.
If I had kept the car, I was going to a smaller rear anti-sway bar.
You still need to use shims to adjust the rear TOE.
Cheers, WWR.
 

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Re: Rear axle beam "stayrods" (BluGTIVR)

I am building something very similar simply to keep from bending the rear beam.
I have had 2 MKI GTIs and 3 bent rear beams between the 2 of them.
Although, both of them had bent beams when I bought them and I have only ever bent one myself.
My guess is that they bend pretty easily so I am going to build something like this just to help out.
 
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