FV-QR
Rather than "thinly spreading" the anti-seize on the hub, it's a lot easier to use the kind that is a pot with a brush... and just do two or three little blobs between the bolt holes on the hub. The wheel will squish it out and cover where you need. A little bit of rust isn't going to hold it on there anyway, it's only when the whole face is rusted over that they will stick...
Also, make sure the grease you are using on the pad backs and contact points is HIGH TEMP / brake grease and not just standard anti-seize. You don't want to burn up your grease on a track day.
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Oh, and why use the special caliper tool? Every time I've had to retract a caliper, we just use the old pad pressed up against the face of the caliper, and then a C-clamp around the back. Tighten C-clamp and the caliper retracts. Is this one special somehow, does it twist on the way in or something weird?
Rather than "thinly spreading" the anti-seize on the hub, it's a lot easier to use the kind that is a pot with a brush... and just do two or three little blobs between the bolt holes on the hub. The wheel will squish it out and cover where you need. A little bit of rust isn't going to hold it on there anyway, it's only when the whole face is rusted over that they will stick...
Also, make sure the grease you are using on the pad backs and contact points is HIGH TEMP / brake grease and not just standard anti-seize. You don't want to burn up your grease on a track day.
Oh, and why use the special caliper tool? Every time I've had to retract a caliper, we just use the old pad pressed up against the face of the caliper, and then a C-clamp around the back. Tighten C-clamp and the caliper retracts. Is this one special somehow, does it twist on the way in or something weird?
