VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Following up on my Front Pad Change posted last week...
1) The rear brakes on the R32 (like many other VWs today) have the emergency handbrake integrated into the brake caliper, and there is a need for the special tool to retract the rear piston without damage.
Here are pictures of the rear brake on the R32


2) You will need a 15mm slim fit open end combination wrench to loosen the caliper guide bolts. You can typically find these at a bicycle shop...or try one of your local hardware stores.
The slim fit wrench is the one that goes inbetween the caliper and the caliper bracket (next to the dust boot)...see pictures


3) Slide caliper off brake disc and pads after you have removed both upper and lower guide bolts.


4) This is the special tool you will need to retract the rear piston. You can buy it online from a variety of retailers or you can rent it from Autozone which I did...The correct size attachment plate is the one on the top, 1st right plate from the middle (H014).

5) Your favorite rear brake pads should be the 1108 shape/pattern. There are no sensors on the rear and this pad shape/pattern is available in a variety of compounds from a few aftermarket manufacturers.


6) Here is what the stock pads look next to the ones I bought.

7) Apply a layer of grease (high temp, brake caliper suitable grease only) to the back of the pad where it would contact the piston and on the pad edges where it would contact the caliper bracket.

8) Using the specical tool, slowly retract the piston back into the caliper.

9) Place the new pads on the caliper bracket before you slide the caliper back over and onto the brake disc and caliper bracket.
10) Re-assembly of caliper with new pads onto the caliper bracket is simply the reverse of when you took it off.
11) A thin coating of anti-seize compound on the hub is a good idea so that you won't have the wheel 'fusing' to the hub after some time.

12) This would not be a bad time to clean up the wheel (inside and outside).

13) Finally, torque lug bolts to the required setting (I use 80 ft lbs since I did not know what the factory spec is...I have since been told that the facotry spec is 88 ft lbs).

Note: Usual disclaimers applies to this DIY, I have attempted to be as detailed as I can, but if you have specific questions, I will be glad to answer based on my experience. Make sure your car is properly supported and secured before you work on it.
Modified by AsianDude at 1:57 PM 7-25-2008

Modified by AsianDude at 1:58 PM 7-25-2008

Modified by AsianDude at 1:58 PM 7-25-2008


Modified by AsianDude at 7:16 AM 7-26-2008
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: FV-QR (ZPrime)

Quote, originally posted by ZPrime »

Oh, and why use the special caliper tool? Every time I've had to retract a caliper, we just use the old pad pressed up against the face of the caliper, and then a C-clamp around the back. Tighten C-clamp and the caliper retracts. Is this one special somehow, does it twist on the way in or something weird?

It does have to turn to retract...the old push method won't work for the rear...the fronts are ok.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: (Clegg)

Could not find Ceramic pads for this car...otherwise I would run those
If you clean your wheels frequently enough...Semi Metallic is ok imo
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: (justinperkins)

Quote, originally posted by justinperkins »

Did you have to open the cap to the brake fluid reservoir before you pushed the caliper in?

Yes I did loosen/remove the brake fluid resevoir cap to release pressure (if any) but more importantly so to make sure that the fluid would not overflow when the pistons were retracted from each caliper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: (BMP 132)

Quote, originally posted by BMP 132 »

FYI, if you plan on renting the tool from say, Autozone, the price is $35 but you can buy a new one from them for the same amount. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif

Renting the tool from Autozone is free. The $35 plus tax is credited back to your credit card when you return the tool. (at least that is how it worked at the local Autozone for me).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: FV-QR (aeproberts21)

Quote, originally posted by aeproberts21 »
So I just got back from Advanced Auto Parts. They didn't have the specialty tool that was mentioned in the DIY. They instead told me this part would work with a normal 3/8 ratchet. The package says it works with most european cars. Will it actually work for the rear brakes?

This tool does not work (I've got one sitting in my toolbox)
You need the set (or similar) shown above in my pics
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: (aeproberts21)

Quote, originally posted by aeproberts21 »
I am doing this install this week. I noticed that there are no torque specs on the instructions.
Anyone know how tight I need to make the guide bolts?

I never found out what the torque specs are for any of the bolts.
But I would venture to say that the caliper guide bolts are no more than 10-12ft lbs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,152 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Re: (deepclue)

You should always bleed out some fluid after the install just to make sure that no air got trapped towards the end of the brake line when you retracted the pistons.
If no fluid was topped up during the life of the car, then you should not have an overflow situation when the caliper pistons are retracted.
Good Luck!!!



Modified by AsianDude at 10:05 AM 8-8-2009
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top