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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Rebuilding 16v Dist; can't be done? (now, how I did it)

Ok, now that you're all here prove me wrong. I've been directed to the 16v org site on the subject, asked several questions of vortexer's, gone to a machine shop and my local hot-rodder to get their read on getting to the internal seal, and still don't see how.
I have a seal (from a Bosch/Volvo dist), that I'm fairly certain will work once I can get to the internals; I have driven out the pin on the drive chuck of the dist, and removed the rotor shaft. But that's where I'm stuck, can't figure out how to get to the internals of the dist body.
Correct me if I'm wrong, seal is on Hall Sender side of dist. body, the part with the spiral? So if this is correct, how do I get to this seal? I've pried the hall sender side end with a screwdriver, and considered driving out the bronze bushings on the drive chuck side of the dist., but neither seem really effective. Wan't sure the right way to proceed, and didn't want to damage the dist for nothing.
What now?
Derek P


[Modified by dbpulvino, 11:29 PM 1-23-2003]
 

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Re: Rebuilding 16v Dist; can't be done? (dbpulvino)

Knock out the plate from the underside through the shaft hole. Carefully. The seal is under there. New seal in place, lube it with a little oil, tap the plate back carefully and as evenly as possible. Lube the shaft when reinstalling, the seal can tear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: Rebuilding 16v Dist; can't be done? (SII16V)

thanks for the info. for what it's worth, I'll keep people posted on my progress, and whether or not that volvo seal is a viable candidate for the rebuild.
dp
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: Rebuilding 16v Dist; can't be done? (rockin16v)

actually, got that taken care of. put the body in a vice and drove away with a drift and a hammer. dist body got a little marred, but that's just character right?
where'd you get a dist for 150 cdn? I mean, that's probably like 50 cents us?
 

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Re: Rebuilding 16v Dist; can't be done? (dbpulvino)

quote:[HR][/HR]actually, got that taken care of. put the body in a vice and drove away with a drift and a hammer. dist body got a little marred, but that's just character right?
[HR][/HR]​
Be sure that the shaft isn't bent and doesn't bind a bit when rotated in the distributor housing. If you don't have access to a shop press, take it to an auto machine shop and they should be able to press out the dowel pin for you, much better for the distibutor to press the pn out than hammering. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Re: Rebuilding 16v Dist; can't be done? (130_R)

Just checked, no bondage, ah I mean bindage. Shaft looked true as well. Might be wise to use a machine shop to get it pressed back in though.
Also, 130, common man, share the wealth! All hypothetical though as I'll get this thing back together.
...and bondage and shaft in the same post...this is gonna get rated XXX!
thx again,
dp
 

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Re: Rebuilding 16v Dist; can't be done? (dbpulvino)

It's not that they can't be rebuilt...it's just that there is no source (cheaper than a new dist. for ~$150) to buy new Hall sender assemblies from. Can't use the old one because it's usually deteriorated from all that hot oil.
I've got two I use as conversation pieces because of lack of a source for Hall senders.
 

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Re: Rebuilding 16v Dist; can't be done? (Electron Man)

quote:[HR][/HR]It's not that they can't be rebuilt...it's just that there is no source (cheaper than a new dist. for ~$150) to buy new Hall sender assemblies from. Can't use the old one because it's usually deteriorated from all that hot oil.
I've got two I use as conversation pieces because of lack of a source for Hall senders.
[HR][/HR]​
boy
you should have read the actuall content of this post man!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: Rebuilding 16v Dist; can't be done? (sixteenvalve)

Going with the curves, are people sure that hot oil will destroy the hall sender? Remember having a problem with the hall sender on my 200, and general consensus among that list was that oil would not likely compromise the hall sender.
dp
 

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Re: Rebuilding 16v Dist; can't be done? (SII16V)

There is a plastic/fiber guard that covers the sender wires (as they leave the interior part of the distributor and travel to the connector on the side of the distributor body). If the guard is not there, the wires are more prone to being broken/damaged. That guard is what gets deteriorated, not the actual sender.
My point was, getting a new seal in is enough work as it is (not too bad though)...but rather pointless if the distributor you are rebuilding has a broken HS connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: Rebuilding 16v Dist; can't be done? (Dimitri16V)

Just wanted to keep this one alive, especially with people talking about no new 16v dist. available.
I recently got my distributor back together with the new seal and thought I'd share a couple of things from my experience.
First off, the volvo seal I had that I thought would work didn't. The O.D. on that seal was too big. I was however able to find an appropriately sized replacement seal from a local transmission shop (correct o.d. and i.d.). I believe the shop said the seal was from a GM manual transmission, from the gear selector input (or whatever you want to call it). I however decided to go with the Chicago Rawhide seal as the GM seal was not spring loaded (ie no spring on the inside of the seal, ya know like on the mainshaft seals.), and the C.R. seal is "proven technology."
To get to the seal, the washer on the hall sender side of the dist. needs to be removed, but be careful! What people had failed to tell me was that the washer is knurled, and after the washer is installed in the distributor at the factory, the metal lip (part of the distributor body) overhanging the edge of the washer is then slightly pressed in. This explains why it was so stinking hard to get the washer out. I also wound up breaking part of the metal surround that was crushed in, but because of the knurling, and the amount of the rim/surround left the washer would still seat when all was said and done. Also considered not a problem due to the minimal amount of axial end-play allowed through construction (ie able to pull the rotor shaft away from and push back to the engine).
The other thing I encountered was that the chuck that engages in the head of the engine is offcenter/directional. As such, it can only be installed one way (unless you want to time your distributor 180 degrees off from normal). The tab coming off the dist drive chuck needs to be on the top side of the chuck when reinstalled, with the distributor rotor referenced to tdc.
I haven't ran the car yet, so don't know how well the reseal worked, but I'll find out soon engough.
If I find this successful after a bit of driving, I might be willing to rebuild distributors for people (for a fee of course
!).
HTH.
Derek P


[Modified by dbpulvino, 11:29 PM 1-23-2003]
 
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