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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
88 GLI 16V. Trans # 2Y
Here I am at 225,000 miles. Clutch and axles have
not been replaced since 60,000 (don't need it now,
but I am going to be in there). I am about to undertake
my largest VW project yet. I am replacing my transmission,
clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, and axles.
I have been told something about pulling my trans out.
Don't really remember, but it was something like pull the
trans from the motor and rotate it 180' and pull it
through the drivers side fender opening.
Sound right?
I have a motor hoist and am willing to spend a couple
of days doing this to see that it is done right.
Any words of advice or problem areas to be aware of?
mp


Modified by greenburrick16v at 7:43 PM 11-7-2004
 

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Re: Removal & Replacment of Trans (greenburrick16v)

1. hook me up with your hoist

2 you don't need the hoist, just unhook everything and remove the drivers side CV joint. then unbolt the transmission and wiggle and fuss with things until the bellhousing clears the flywheel. then hold the tranny from the top and drop it down undderneath the car. getting the clearance to drop it straight down might be a little tricky, but i've done it 4 or 5 times now and it works for me. might not be the official way (it's most definatley bootleg), but it works and you have to remove minimal stuff.
 

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make sure u get the cv bolt tool, in all the way to prevent stripping, tap the bit in with a hammer. I seem to remember completely removing my cv's to get them out of the way when changing out the trans. the big nut in between in the center of thebrake rotor is a 30mm, the factory torqing of them will require u to use a breaker bar and a long pipe(a.k.a. cheater bar) u will need to do this before rem0ving any wheels as they will be super tight, it's best to have a second pair of feet to put ther foot on the brake to keep the car from rolling due to the tightness.c I can't recall ever hearing the roatae it 180'. I never did such a thing, on any vw, and I have parted a few a1, a2 and even a b3 vr6 02a 5spd. good time to change the gear oil in the replacement tranny if it has used oil in it(if it;s a used one) buy 3 qts, open the drain, let it stop, and put a little bit of new oil in it with the drain open to FLUSH out hte remaining sediment and old oil etc out of it just for kicks. the flywheel uses a 9mm 12pt. 6pt won't fit, and contiue to torque to spec until; all are to spec in the order as per bnentley, cause u are pshing the pressure plate in as u are doimng this. grease the clutch spline a little as some say it can cuase the clutch not to fully disengage. it would be a good idea to buy new PP bolts, as they aer "stretch" boltsand are "one time use" but I be;lieve many have gotten away with resusing, but do so at ur own risk. don't get oil or grease on ur eng to trans bolts, as they will be very prone to self loosesning from the hard vibrations of high revving. that's all I can think of right now, that may be a little to in depth, but better to much infop than to little, LMK if u have any further q's
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: (austin neuschafer)

I have all of the necessary tool up for the job and have actually been
into the axles before to replace the boots, so I know the procedure
of holding the brakes and pulling away on the 30 with a breaker bar.
So the motor hoist is not necessary to make things easier?
This is a fresh rebuild on the trans, so it will be shipped dry.
I have my 2.1 quarts of RedLine 90 MT waiting.
I also bought the complete bolt kit, the vender made me aware of
the one time usage bolts and sold me the kit.
What exactly gets greased up on the clutch?
I have heard this before, but am unaware of what to do.
Feelings on anti-sieze on engine bolts, or will that likely cause them
to loosen as the grease / oil would?
I am pulling the axles out for replacment, so they will
be out of the way. Do I need to remove the drivers side inner fender
for easy access to the trans?
Thanks Austin,
mp
 

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Actually pulled my tranny today. The 12 point in 8, and 10 mm are needed (only if your starter bolts need the 10 mm). The hoist will actually help (easier to move engine to side for needed space). Grease up only the input for the trany splines, the middle hole in the clutch disk, where the splines of the trany go into the clutch disk. (do not grease up the actual output shaft of the trany, a glob could come out and contaminate the pressure plate. No anti-sieze. Inner fender removal will make it easer, it is not needed. You will have to rotate the trany a little to get it out, not any more than 45 degres. And last, plan on it taking two days. one for removal and clean up, one for re-instalation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: (87 GL)

Thanks for the input!
I was planning for a 2 day adventure.
This way, I will not feel rushed and miss
mundane details.
Thanks again,
mikep
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: (greenburrick16v)

Here is what is to be installed



...And yes....
That is a 6 Speed!


Modified by greenburrick16v at 6:58 PM 7-8-2004


Modified by greenburrick16v at 4:16 PM 7-16-2004
 

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Re: (greenburrick16v)

be sure to remove the small bolt toward the back of the block that bolts the dust shield to the trans. I have forgotten this a couple of times and fought with the trans wondering why it would not come out. At the time I thought it was the drive flange hanging on the flywheel teeth. I had a local call me at work one day asking if their was a trick to getting the trans out and I mentioned the bolt and that was exactly what was holding him up. Do you have air tools? It makes the job sooo much easier.Hell your not that far from me I would offer to come up and help but don't know when I could find the time.
 

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Re: (greenburrick16v)

what did that 6th gear conversion cost ya???
i just did my tranny in my daily driver 4dr golf and it wasnt hard at all... its a lot easier when you have two people. im a weak s.o.b so its hard to get the tranny back into the car and get a bolt in it.
good luck with the swap
 

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Re: (greenburrick16v)

Don't know if this helps, I find it easier to remove the driver side tranny mount before I remove the tranny and put it back on after I have bolted the tranny back in. it just clears the rear crossmember easier w/o that tranny mount mounted. it's only like 3 bolts to put back in anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: (creechsvdub)

I bought a whole transmission.
It is a 0 mile unit with the 6 speed
already installed.
$1500
Thanks for the help with the trans mount tip.
I like anything that will make this easier.
3 bolts is nothing if it makes the job easier.
 

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Re: (greenburrick16v)

no prob, that tranny mount removed makes life much easier for me cause of the tightness of that dang rear a2 crossmember. dang 5 fun gears and still a cruising gear!! that's like having 4k's gears and gas mileage with the 6th.... yeah baby. happy 16v'ing.... nice
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Re: (creechsvdub)

And creechsvdub,
thanks for the trans mount tip again.
I don't think that it would be out yet if I
didn't know about that.
It was a fight 'till the end.
Can't wait to fight the new trans in
(considering that it is 4" longer than stock)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Re: (creechsvdub)

3.68
with .71 6th gear.
It is basically a stock 2Y
just with a much better crusing gear.
Still wrenching away.
This makes Day # 3

I will post some progress pictures later today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: (greenburrick16v)

Speed =



And just one more for you guys.
Look Hard ' cause its dark.




Modified by greenburrick16v at 8:17 PM 3-10-2004
 
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