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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A lot of you want better bass from your Fender systems. I've read many descriptions on how to add a new power amplifier, processor and subwoofer to the car. I know how great that can sound, that's exactly what I did with my last car. This time however, I did not want to go the extra mile both in terms of cash and the effort to bring a power line through the firewall to the back of the car. I'm guessing there are a lot of people who don't want to mess with the powerline as well.

I wanted cheap and I wanted it all delivered to my door.

My first effort was a fail. I connected a Pioneer 10” sub that came preinstalled in a very nice narrow box ($107 on Amazon). I connected directly to the lines that feed the Fender sub and was able to get deep, reasonable sound, but not all that much output even when the sub control was turned up to 7 or 8 (even after I got the polarity right). It did however hit much lower notes and this gave me encouragement. The problem turns out I did not pay attention to resistance, as this is a 4 ohm single voice coil subwoofer. I returned the Pioneer to Amazon.

The Fender subwoofer has a dual voice coil woofer labeled 2x2ohm and is fed by 4 wires from the amp, a pos and a neg pair for each side of the woofer. The two white wires are positives and the brown wires are negatives. There is a yellow stripe on one of each color to distinguish which belong together as a pair.

This is the setup I connected yesterday, and it sounds every bit as awesome as the 500 watt Boston Acoustics setup I had in my Saab:

Rockford Fosgate 12" Prime R2 2-Ohm DVC Shallow Subwoofer, $68 on Amazon
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/r2sd2-12

Atrend slim 12” box, $36 on Amazon
https://www.atrendusa.com/12-single-sealed-slim-2

PIXNOR DIY Home Car Stereo 2-Way Speaker Box Terminal Binding Post Round Spring Cup Connector Subwoofer Plug (Black), $7 on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P5Z76NO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

I wanted to copy exactly the stock configuration, which meant two pairs of wire entering a box made with connections for only one pair. The biggest bit of work was drilling a 2 inch hole in the box for the extra connector terminal and then vacuuming up the sawdust. You need two 1-2 foot pieces of speaker wire to run inside the box for each of the 2 pairs of connectors on the new sub. You will need another two pieces of wire to connect to the stock wires, as they are too short to reach directly to the new sub. One terminal is connected to the yellow-striped pair of wires, the other to the plain ones, whites are positive, browns are negative.

I face the sub down and it straddles the round indent in the floor. Four little squares of sticky-backed velcro keep it from sliding. The deck cover almost closes flush over it but not quite; the sub box is still about half an inch too thick for that. Not a bother for me, some others may want to seek a thinner box (4.5 inches would be perfect). I really should put a grill on the sub for protection - maybe someone can recommend one (if it is cheap and on Amazon).

The sound is awesome, though some will say that a 1000 watt amp is needed for any meaningful bass. Now I know there is an easier way.

And did I mention it only cost $111?
 

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Nice DIY! Pictures of the finished product? Not compatible with spare tire mod, of course :) I'm thrilled about how good the factory setup sounds compared to any car I've been in, but of course you can always have more bass.
 

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Awesome can you take some pictures of the installed setup? How does this one improve bass over the stock sub? I've never upgraded one before.

Are you planning on upgrading the front door speakers or anything else too? I wish I looked at the model number when I was doing the folding mirrors, I wonder how much $$ it would take to get a significantly better speaker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Awesome can you take some pictures of the installed setup? How does this one improve bass over the stock sub? I've never upgraded one before.

Are you planning on upgrading the front door speakers or anything else too? I wish I looked at the model number when I was doing the folding mirrors, I wonder how much $$ it would take to get a significantly better speaker.
This was my first post and I don't know if a n00b has privileges to post pictures, but I will try.
With the larger sub, the sound has a deeper, more powerful foundation. The Fender sub had too much 60-100Hz bass, boomy is the term, I think. I confirmed that it didn't reproduce anything under 58Hz with a subwoofer test app. The Pioneer sub went down to 44Hz, and I still have to test the new one.
I have found that a decent car stereo is hugely improved by good bass, and I think the rest of the Fender system is more than decent. I think I'm satisfied as I now have it.
 

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This was my first post and I don't know if a n00b has privileges to post pictures, but I will try.
With the larger sub, the sound has a deeper, more powerful foundation. The Fender sub had too much 60-100Hz bass, boomy is the term, I think. I confirmed that it didn't reproduce anything under 58Hz with a subwoofer test app. The Pioneer sub went down to 44Hz, and I still have to test the new one.
I have found that a decent car stereo is hugely improved by good bass, and I think the rest of the Fender system is more than decent. I think I'm satisfied as I now have it.
Was there any weight difference added? Do you feel like you have more overall output? I'm thinking maybe just going with a really efficient shallow mount 10" would be a good compromise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Was there any weight difference added? Do you feel like you have more overall output? I'm thinking maybe just going with a really efficient shallow mount 10" would be a good compromise.
I think a 10" would be great and not much compromise at all, as long as you go with the dual voice coil/2 ohm setup. I definitely have more output, though I didn't like the way the original sub sounded when turned up. I'm surprised at how much output. I thought from the forum that the stock sub didn't receive many watts of power,but nobody really knows The box alone weighs 16# and it is definitely heavier than the Fender.
 

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I think a 10" would be great and not much compromise at all, as long as you go with the dual voice coil/2 ohm setup. I definitely have more output, though I didn't like the way the original sub sounded when turned up. I'm surprised at how much output. I thought from the forum that the stock sub didn't receive many watts of power,but nobody really knows The box alone weighs 16# and it is definitely heavier than the Fender.
So is this being wired as 1ohm or is the factory Fender amp a 2ch so you are powering each 2ohm voice coil separately? Not too many shallow mount dual 2ohm subwoofers available. I wish the rockford fosgate was a bit more efficient, 83db is a bit low considering the factory amp is probably under 100 watts.
 

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OoOooOooOoooOokay, I will bite!

I was going to do a dual 12" setup with a 800 watt amp to power them but I will give this a try first. I manage to get the Punch P3SD2-12 at Jet.com for $96 shipped. Also getting the same box but slightly used on amazon for $25.50 shipped. Total = $121'ish.

If this doesn't suffice me, I will do my original plan with a fiberglass box for the dual Polk MM1240DVC with a Massive Audio N2 amp.

Obviously the Dual Polks and 800rms amp will sound a LOT louder but I'm somewhat content with the stock fenders already so if this will double the boom, I will be content.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So is this being wired as 1ohm or is the factory Fender amp a 2ch so you are powering each 2ohm voice coil separately? Not too many shallow mount dual 2ohm subwoofers available. I wish the rockford fosgate was a bit more efficient, 83db is a bit low considering the factory amp is probably under 100 watts.
The factory amp delivers 2 channels, one for each coil. Everybody assumes the factory amp is super anemic, but I think it is the Fender sub's super puny 6 inch driver making it sound that way.
 

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Good job and great write up! I'd definitely be interested in pics too. I really like the sound of the Fender system. It's the best stock I've had in any car and I've had some nice systems. I do miss the deep bass I had once with an aftermarket 200w 12" JBL though. That thing could warm you up on a cold winters day.

I'm a new poster and was able to post photos without any problem. Just upload them somewhere to the interwebz (I used photobucket) and then you can link to them here with the Insert Image icon.
 

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The factory amp delivers 2 channels, one for each coil. Everybody assumes the factory amp is super anemic, but I think it is the Fender sub's super puny 6 inch driver making it sound that way.
Which raises the question of whether there's a better driver that could be substituted in the original Fender enclosure.

Neil
 

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Which raises the question of whether there's a better driver that could be substituted in the original Fender enclosure.

Neil
my guess is you could probably fabricate a Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 or Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 to work with the stock box. Fabricate meaning mucking around since you're putting a 8" where a 6.5" would usually go. However I like the idea of going with a 12" for more air movement :) hopefully the amp is sufficient to drive it and doesn't distort and clip the sub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good job and great write up! I'd definitely be interested in pics too. I really like the sound of the Fender system. It's the best stock I've had in any car and I've had some nice systems. I do miss the deep bass I had once with an aftermarket 200w 12" JBL though. That thing could warm you up on a cold winters day.

I'm a new poster and was able to post photos without any problem. Just upload them somewhere to the interwebz (I used photobucket) and then you can link to them here with the Insert Image icon.
Thank you, I'll do the photobucket thing, probably have time tomorrow. Any requested views aside from the obligatory view from above?
 

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Thank you, I'll do the photobucket thing, probably have time tomorrow. Any requested views aside from the obligatory view from above?
Just clear shots of how the box fits in place, wiring, etc. So someone whos never installed anything like this can see how it went together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
my guess is you could probably fabricate a Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 or Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 to work with the stock box. Fabricate meaning mucking around since you're putting a 8" where a 6.5" would usually go. However I like the idea of going with a 12" for more air movement :) hopefully the amp is sufficient to drive it and doesn't distort and clip the sub.
I haven't detected any clipping up to the level of hearing damage, and that surprises me. It moves a lot more air than the Fender, but this setup is not going to make my hair wave around or break up kidney stones in my gut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I am so grateful to this community for all of the amazing information about this great new car of mine. I hope at least a few people try this upgrade and save a few hundred bucks. There are better places to spend that money, like on JB1s or JB4s! Consider it my way of saying thanks.

I tested the output this morning with the Android app called Bass Tester. It generates tones with a slide to adjust. The output stayed full volume down to 33Hz (where the Fender went inaudible around 55 or 56). I think this is pretty impressive, and maybe will be even better when the speaker is broken in (and isn't at 28 deg F).
 

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Thank you, I'll do the photobucket thing, probably have time tomorrow. Any requested views aside from the obligatory view from above?
What tofur said. Plus, you mentioned "The deck cover almost closes flush over it but not quite; the sub box is still about half an inch too thick for that". It might be helpful to show pics of that too.
 

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I want to try this is a Golf R with a JL Audio 13Tw5. Factory radio to Audion BitOne. BitOne to a pair of Arc Audio 4200SE amps running two pairs of Hertz Mille comps all active and use an Arc Audio 2150SE to power the sub.

Yellow
 
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