I just completed this install and if anyone is on the fence about this....DO IT!!!! It sounds unbelievable!
Super easy to install, just follow OP's advise. I bought the box that was listed toward the end of the thread,
installed the Rockford Fosgate 12" sub, and installed the VW connectors. Turned on the stereo and BOOM!
Thanks very much to all who contributed to this thread, you made it simple.
I just completed this install and if anyone is on the fence about this....DO IT!!!! It sounds unbelievable!
Super easy to install, just follow OP's advise. I bought the box that was listed toward the end of the thread,
installed the Rockford Fosgate 12" sub, and installed the VW connectors. Turned on the stereo and BOOM!
Thanks very much to all who contributed to this thread, you made it simple.
Just a quick highlight, the Sub you linked is a the 4ohm, not sure if you accidentally bought that one Vs the 2ohm version or maybe just linked the wrong product
I did wonder whether having a slightly larger internal capacity would give the Sub anymore kick vs the one that allows the floor to sit flush? Or would it be so minute that it would be impossible to tell
Just a quick highlight, the Sub you linked is a the 4ohm, not sure if you accidentally bought that one Vs the 2ohm version or maybe just linked the wrong product
I did wonder whether having a slightly larger internal capacity would give the Sub anymore kick vs the one that allows the floor to sit flush? Or would it be so minute that it would be impossible to tell
It still hits hard. It's also a good bit louder than the fender sub at the same volume level.
Remember the fender sub is only a 6.5 inch woofer. The 12" has a lot more surface area to move air. So going to a dual 4 ohm sub I don't think will make a bad influence on sound. It'll likely be easier for the stereo amp to drive :snowcool:
I did wonder whether having a slightly larger internal capacity would give the Sub anymore kick vs the one that allows the floor to sit flush? Or would it be so minute that it would be impossible to tell
It still hits hard. It's also a good bit louder than the fender sub at the same volume level.
Remember the fender sub is only a 6.5 inch woofer. The 12" has a lot more surface area to move air. So going to a dual 4 ohm sub I don't think will make a bad influence on sound. It'll likely be easier for the stereo amp to drive :snowcool:
A dual 4 ohm sub will pull roughly half the wattage as a dual 2 ohm sub. If the amplifier is capable (and rated) for driving a 2 ohm stereo load, all this will do is run it at half power, which will result in less bass output.
I'm thinking of doing this soon, but have never done anything car audio before. I've always had a shop do it in my previous cars, and my experience wiring speakers is only connecting a speaker to a home theater receiver. Would generic speaker wire work for wiring the sub to the terminals? I have some leftover wire from wiring my basic home theater setup.
If it's no good, is there anything you guys recommend?
Also, is there anything I need to do to the wiring inside the box? Do they need to be secured? Remembering I have never done this before, I'm imagining hanging wires might contact the sub internals as the car moves around? Or am I just an idiot and over complicating this?
I'm thinking of doing this soon, but have never done anything car audio before. I've always had a shop do it in my previous cars, and my experience wiring speakers is only connecting a speaker to a home theater receiver. Would generic speaker wire work for wiring the sub to the terminals? I have some leftover wire from wiring my basic home theater setup.
If it's no good, is there anything you guys recommend?
Also, is there anything I need to do to the wiring inside the box? Do they need to be secured? Remembering I have never done this before, I'm imagining hanging wires might contact the sub internals as the car moves around? Or am I just an idiot and over complicating this?
Yeah i think i used almost the same thing. It's not taking a ton of power so it doesn't need a very thick wire IMO.
Just don't use a longer wire than you need. If you really want to be OCD and are worried about the wire rattling i saw on youtube people wrap it with felt tape or something so that it doesn't make any noises. I didn't bother and i don't have any rattling from the speaker box. The rest of my car on the other hand haha.
Yeah i think i used almost the same thing. It's not taking a ton of power so it doesn't need a very thick wire IMO.
Just don't use a longer wire than you need. If you really want to be OCD and are worried about the wire rattling i saw on youtube people wrap it with felt tape or something so that it doesn't make any noises. I didn't bother and i don't have any rattling from the speaker box. The rest of my car on the other hand haha.
I just did the AK Audio box (Thanks aphrdzac for the find) and the dual 2 ohm R2SD2-12 from Amazon. What an amazing difference. I only waited this long so that I could maintain a flush floor panel.
I just did the AK Audio box (Thanks aphrdzac for the find) and the dual 2 ohm R2SD2-12 from Amazon. What an amazing difference. I only waited this long so that I could maintain a flush floor panel.
Hey there, I haven’t read this whole thread but since you just did it, I figured I’d ask you.
This is plug and play with the factory fender system? The AK box sits flush under the floor panel? Are any modifications required to make the box fit? If you have one, does this work with a spare tire (not that I have one yet)? Do the factory controls still control the sub?
Most importantly, can you post some pics?
Edit: is the box secure or will it move under spirited driving?
Hey there, I haven’t read this whole thread but since you just did it, I figured I’d ask you.
This is plug and play with the factory fender system? The AK box sits flush under the floor panel? Are any modifications required to make the box fit? If you have one, does this work with a spare tire (not that I have one yet)? Do the factory controls still control the sub?
Most importantly, can you post some pics?
Edit: is the box secure or will it move under spirited driving?
Read the thread.
Buy the connector that people say, and the wires. Follow the diagram.
No pictures because my hatch is full of work shit.
Fits perfectly with no modifications or impact.
Spare will not fit.
Does not move under spirited driving because I put the roadside kit and small tarp next to it.
I finally got the AK Audio box and love it. It must have a slightly larger effective volume than my original box because it sounds a bit louder and deeper. And it sits flush!
Thank you to all the people who have refined my original setup!
:beer::beer:
I finally got the AK Audio box and love it. It must have a slightly larger effective volume than my original box because it sounds a bit louder and deeper. And it sits flush!
Thank you to all the people who have refined my original setup!
:beer::beer:
I was still using the Atrend box described in my original post. Your question spurred me to look up the volumes. The Atrend has smaller volume than the AK audio box: 0.62 cubic feet vs 0.76 for th AK Audio.
My sub is fully broken in at 3 1/2 years of age!
I knew box volume was important, but I am suprised at how much better it sounds.
I was still using the Atrend box described in my original post. Your question spurred me to look up the volumes. The Atrend has smaller volume than the AK audio box: 0.62 cubic feet vs 0.76 for th AK Audio.
My sub is fully broken in at 3 1/2 years of age!
I knew box volume was important, but I am suprised at how much better it sounds.
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