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I was still using the Atrend box described in my original post. Your question spurred me to look up the volumes. The Atrend has smaller volume than the AK audio box: 0.62 cubic feet vs 0.76 for th AK Audio.
My sub is fully broken in at 3 1/2 years of age!
I knew box volume was important, but I am suprised at how much better it sounds.
Do you think you could update your OP to include the best method that’s been worked out? The AK box and I’m not sure if someone found better cables/connector.


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Damn completely missed you were the original poster :banghead:

Great thread and advise im going with the AK box then, better sound and sits flush what is there to loose (aside from maybe the extra cost)
Just an FYI, if you haven't purchased it yet, the guys at AK Audio will make a bigger box for the same price. I asked them how much it would cost to produce a 24x30, instead of the 22x28, since it's closer to the recommended volume for the RF sub. They're quick to respond to emails, and pretty fast turn around. I ordered late Aug 27 and it shipped yesterday. So, about a week including a holiday.
 
Just an FYI, if you haven't purchased it yet, the guys at AK Audio will make a bigger box for the same price. I asked them how much it would cost to produce a 24x30, instead of the 22x28, since it's closer to the recommended volume for the RF sub. They're quick to respond to emails, and pretty fast turn around. I ordered late Aug 27 and it shipped yesterday. So, about a week including a holiday.

I don’t have access to my car right now, but I’m wondering if it’s possible to make it wide enough so that it’s basically edge to edge, that way it won’t be able to move around. Not sure if the edges have the same clearance as the rest.


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I don’t have access to my car right now, but I’m wondering if it’s possible to make it wide enough so that it’s basically edge to edge, that way it won’t be able to move around. Not sure if the edges have the same clearance as the rest.


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I thought about doing that, but when I looked, the edge closest to the front of the car had protrusions in the corners and a hinge for the back seat.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6Tdz7oczz7BqHy5n8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BZLeASMRt2vRyJUc7
(sorry for blurry, took photos really quick)

I don't have my box yet, but I think there might be enough room to shift the box further back and avoid those completely. I didn't think of it when I measured for my box, though. I'll probably use some velcro to ensure it doesn't slide around.
 
Thats great advise thanks. I will be ordering one in the up coming weeks

Do these things slide around at all? how are you guys securing them or if the weight enough to hold it in place
Two pieces of automotive velcro on the box combined with the weight of the box keep it from budging. Doesn't slide at all.
 
I thought about doing that, but when I looked, the edge closest to the front of the car had protrusions in the corners and a hinge for the back seat.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6Tdz7oczz7BqHy5n8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BZLeASMRt2vRyJUc7
(sorry for blurry, took photos really quick)

I don't have my box yet, but I think there might be enough room to shift the box further back and avoid those completely. I didn't think of it when I measured for my box, though. I'll probably use some velcro to ensure it doesn't slide around.
Could you post some pics once you get the box in and installed? Let me know if you think a different size would work even better. I plan to order one soon.

Is the consensus that the OP’s suggested sub is the best option for the money?


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Could you post some pics once you get the box in and installed? Let me know if you think a different size would work even better. I plan to order one soon.

Is the consensus that the OP’s suggested sub is the best option for the money?


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The box just came today. It's excellent quality and exactly how I wanted it. While I haven't used the Atrend box, if you're willing to pay the extra premium, I would choose the AK Audio box.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/x1MyovTW23woGBueA

I'm sure there's a better size/design that would be better. However, it's really up to where you want the space and how much measuring/work you're willing to put in. My box is a 24x30 and I asked Carlos to offset the hole as close to the terminals as he felt comfortable. This allows the sub to sit closer to center over the recession in the floor when the box is pushed against the rear seat. I can still fit all 4 CarGo blocks under the floor when I don't need them, I only lost a place to put the VW Roadside kit, which is now velcroed to the back seat. I'm very happy with this.

Thanks to Jrarjrar and everyone else who contributed to finding the sub, the wiring harness and wiring, and making a wiring diagram so even a clueless guy like me can do this so easily. It's things like this that make the VW community so great.


Edit: Here's my google doc with all the info compiled into one spot. If OP sees this, feel free to update first post with it, if you'd like.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1J3pCV5Dk3avVIvWmbqKtx5Fmubk9utr1TU2jRIFQ19I/edit?usp=sharing
 
The box just came today. It's excellent quality and exactly how I wanted it. While I haven't used the Atrend box, if you're willing to pay the extra premium, I would choose the AK Audio box.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/x1MyovTW23woGBueA

I'm sure there's a better size/design that would be better. However, it's really up to where you want the space and how much measuring/work you're willing to put in. My box is a 24x30 and I asked Carlos to offset the hole as close to the terminals as he felt comfortable. This allows the sub to sit closer to center over the recession in the floor when the box is pushed against the rear seat. I can still fit all 4 CarGo blocks under the floor when I don't need them, I only lost a place to put the VW Roadside kit, which is now velcroed to the back seat. I'm very happy with this.

Thanks to Jrarjrar and everyone else who contributed to finding the sub, the wiring harness and wiring, and making a wiring diagram so even a clueless guy like me can do this so easily. It's things like this that make the VW community so great.


Edit: Here's my google doc with all the info compiled into one spot. If OP sees this, feel free to update first post with it, if you'd like.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1J3pCV5Dk3avVIvWmbqKtx5Fmubk9utr1TU2jRIFQ19I/edit?usp=sharing
Appreciate the info. What are you impressions on the upgrade?


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Appreciate the info. What are you impressions on the upgrade?


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To be completely honest, it's more powerful than I expected.

To echo what other people have said in the thread, for how clean, integrated, inexpensive, reversible, quality sound, and easy it is to install, I would not consider running a sub/amp combo in the car after experiencing this. It's more than adequate, unless your goal is to feel your individual hairs vibrate.
 
So, i've been watching this thread for awhile and looking for additional info, but today I actually read the entire thread from start to finish. 3 hours later with my phone at 60% (guess I'm a slow reader!), all the other info I was looking for was in here somewhere! Mainly whether that AK-audio box fit flush in the R, where to get the terminals and mostly, how to get that darn plastic pole out of the trunk!
I really don't feel like doing a bunch of wiring or paying someone else to install my old setup while loosing all my trunk space, so I plan to do this mod very soon. Thanks for all your help!
Oh, and I ended up finding the wires and the plug for a pretty good price at VWPartsVortex.com:
Wires:
https://www.vwpartsvortex.com/oem-parts/volkswagen-wires-000979226ea
Plug:
https://www.vwpartsvortex.com/oem-parts/volkswagen-housing-8e0972714
I think those are the right ones.
 
I happened across this posting looking at upgrading my fender subwoofer. However mine only has 2 wires connecting it, anyone know what they are or have any way to convert to a 1 x 2. Looking at replacing it with one of the other spare tire options out there.

Thanks
 
I happened across this posting looking at upgrading my fender subwoofer. However mine only has 2 wires connecting it, anyone know what they are or have any way to convert to a 1 x 2. Looking at replacing it with one of the other spare tire options out there.

Thanks
Please post a picture of the sub/connector for us and confirm your car year and model.
 
I got the plug and wires as suggested, as well as the AK box (24x30, offset toward terminals), and the RF sub recommended in the op. I will add that you need about 2 feet of 15 gauge speaker wire to connect the sub to the box, as well as the ends for that to connect to the terminals inside the box.

Pretty significant difference. Thanks to OP and everyone else who contributed to this upgrade.


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Ive had this mod in my car for at least 3 years and when I initially did it I too was blown away by the difference it made. However, through time I found the tonality of the the whole system is, to put it simply, unbalanced. Sure there was more bass to the overall sound but it was in lack of overall synergy with the Fender system. The mids are mostly masked and if turned up it gets boomy.

So just for the heck of it I dusted off the old OEM sub from the attic and swapped it back on. Wow! Now the sound was very much more balanced and was enjoying my playlist again like the whole system is brand new. I think in my case at least I went through a classic case of Phsycoacoustics syndrome. Now I don't even want to replace the OEM sub anymore.

I will say that the OEM sub can possibly be tweaked with an upgraded driver or to put some reinforcement to the plastic tub to make the low end frequency a bit more tighter then it would be close to perfect. But for now I'm enjoying my music again.

Either that or my ears are just 3 years older. :laugh:
 
Dual 10's as Fender Replacement

In the midst of all this Coronavirus craziness, I just finished a pretty awesome dual-sub project for my Fender replacement, so I’ll contribute what I did. First, I want to thank everyone who contributed before me, especially @Jrarjrar the OP who started this thread. I read through pretty much the entire post, perhaps twice, and was very motivated to do this. I’m somewhat of an audiophile with my home system, and am somewhat disappointed with the audio system that comes standard with the Golf R. So when I came across this sub upgrade, I was all over it. From my home system, I know how much a good/great sub can contribute to the overall system. In fact, I have dual subs at home since I have a very large room and having that second sub made all the difference. Sorry for the digression. Anyways…

I found an excellent driver from Dayton Audio, known for high quality drivers. I don’t think anyone else in this forum has used these. I wasn’t worried about price at the same time didn’t want to go crazy. With the extreme depth limitation required I only had one option, the Dayton LS10-44, 10 in. low-profile. The specs are excellent especially the physical (< 3.5” deep); however, it’s 4 ohm DVC when the Fender sub is 2 ohm DVC. Shoot, this had to be a direct replacement and not get complicated.

I looked at many other drivers but kept coming back to this one. Then it dawned on me, what if I bought two and wired each as a 2 ohm. I could then connect each sub to the existing amp so that I have one sub on each channel. The amp is dual channel, so it would effectively see a 2 ohm load on each channel, which is how it’s specified. Wow, that would be really cool! Dual high-quality 10’s—more than enough low frequency sound, I could likely blow open the hatch. (I say in jest since I do value my hearing. I appreciate excellent sound which doesn’t have to blow my ears out to be great).

That’s the background, now the results. Wow-this was so worth it! Once I readjusted my audio settings this setup rocks. What a difference!

Pics are below (hopefully I inserted the links correctly) If you live in Orange County, CA, the only place I found that will do precision cuts is Orange Coast Lumber in Santa Ana. Support them! They were awesome and only charged $10 for the cuts!

Dimensions: 31 x 22 x 3.5, using ½ in (actually it’s 12mm thickness, which was even better for my application. My finished box ended up at 3-7/16” (see pic).

Cabinet material: I used ½ in (12mm) Baltic Birch which is lighter and stronger than MDF, not to mention looks great. I knew space was super tight. Most used ¾” but my goal was 3.5” or less for thickness. I had to go thin wherever possible since the inner lid HAD to close all the way!

Volume: Specs call out .45 cu ft for a sealed box or .90 for two, so I designed as two independent volumes (see pic) giving each sub its own space. Per my calculations total vol is .89 cu ft, so each is darn close to .45 cu ft.

Weight: 36.5 lbs (I’m fine with this; after all there are 2 subs, a good-sized cabinet, hardware. I think most projects I read about were in the 20-25 lb range anyway.

Parts list & Cost: $263
-Baltic Birch, 60 x 60, $26 + $10 (cuts): $36
-Dayton Audio, LS10-44 Sub, Parts Express: $94.63 each x 2 = $189.26
-Screws & misc hardware: $18.40
-12 Gauge wire: $19 (30 ft roll)
-R Decal: $0
TOTAL: $262.66

R decal: A friend knew someone who does decals for boats and such. He found a vector file off the web and had the guy do this for me as a favor. So, I got this for free and it really polished things off. Even though no one sees it unless I open the lid, I think all us R geeks will think it’s pretty cool.

PICS:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zgzp8iznuonnbcs/IMG_4625.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/oq0n90vn6tgugvh/IMG_4640a.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bk4dvkurt5p94sc/IMG_4641.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/el3izpt67p6obqw/IMG_4642.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/b9xn7q0nodqggtt/IMG_4647a.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4cnri1xrj4zfviz/IMG_4648.jpg?dl=0
 
Thanks for posting your updates. The fender upgrade is a great upgrade, but I find that they're a little boomy. It's fun with music that is heavy in the bass, but kind of lacks when listening to other music.

If I'm stuck at home for the next couple of weeks/months, this update may give me something to do.:thumbup:
 
Thanks for posting your updates. The fender upgrade is a great upgrade, but I find that they're a little boomy. It's fun with music that is heavy in the bass, but kind of lacks when listening to other music.

If I'm stuck at home for the next couple of weeks/months, this update may give me something to do.:thumbup:

I agree it can get very bass-heavy. I have Spotify set for very high, which is 320kb/s but the quality of each song varies quite a bit. I have an old iPod Classic which sounds slightly better but recording quality varies all over the place. For those certain songs, it's quite incredible sound, but others it's too much. I found by adjusting to audio settings to these, give or take, 4 (sub), 0 (bass), 2 (mid), 4 (treble) reduces the boominess quite a bit (especially the bass setting).

I'm playing around with differ wires brands and believe there is a noticeable difference. I know most don't want to mess around with re-wiring things, but I don't mind. Once I settle on something, I'll leave it for a long time.

Enjoy!
 
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