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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I originally posted this in the CC forum but its not heavily trafficked and more digging it looks like half of the cars VAG makes use this same design so hopefully someone else can help with some feedback.

My girlfriends 2011 CC has some really worn out steel control arms so I bought the whole kit from FCP.

Ball joints, steering rods, sway bar links, etc, all childs play.
Crankset Bicycle part Automotive tire Gas Audio equipment


But then I get to the control arms front bushing. The kit they sent came with a locking nut but her subframe is aluminum and the bolt threads into the subframe directly. Is that expected? Like the nuts are just there to "cover all bases?"

And my REAL issue, I cannot get those original bolts out. I know I need to lower the subframe and hang it from the bolts to clear her auto tranny pan but I cant even get the passenger side out with a clear shot. Multiple hits with PB Blaster, including hammering a wedge in between the rubber of the bushing and the subframe tabs to make sure some of it gets down at least to touch the inner sleeve of the bushing, tapping, etc. But even with a 600lb impact wrench Im only able to move the bolt back and forth about 1-2 degrees of travel. Its doing more work to the head of the bolt than anything else.

Im hoping someone has some tips short of cutting it (because at least now its drivable to get to a shop) to help free it.
 

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2021 HiHy Platinum AWD
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Sounds like German craftmanship cross threading the bolt at the factory.

zee Germans cross threaded a bolt on my 2016 Tiguan tail light, which turned what should have been a 5 minute job into hour plus job.
 

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Sounds like German craftmanship cross threading the bolt at the factory.

zee Germans cross threaded a bolt on my 2016 Tiguan tail light, which turned what should have been a 5 minute job into hour plus job.
The 2nd generation Tiguan was assembled in many different locations:
Germany: Wolfsburg (Wolfsburg Volkswagen Plant)

Mexico: Puebla

China: Anting (SAIC-VW, for Tiguan L)

Russia: Kaluga (Volkswagen Group Rus)

Algeria: Relizane

India: Aurangabad (Škoda VW India)

Malaysia: Pekan (HICOM)

Indonesia: Purwakarta (National Assemblers)

So guess it depends where yours have been made. lol

Sent from my SM-N9750 using Tapatalk
 

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2021 HiHy Platinum AWD
Joined
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20,559 Posts
The 2nd generation Tiguan was assembled in many different locations:
Germany: Wolfsburg (Wolfsburg Volkswagen Plant)

Mexico: Puebla

China: Anting (SAIC-VW, for Tiguan L)

Russia: Kaluga (Volkswagen Group Rus)

Algeria: Relizane

India: Aurangabad (Škoda VW India)

Malaysia: Pekan (HICOM)

Indonesia: Purwakarta (National Assemblers)

So guess it depends where yours have been made. lol

Sent from my SM-N9750 using Tapatalk
The 2016 Tiguan in the USA (the USA flag in my profile is a giveaway), is still a PQ35 chassis car, assembled in German. The MQB Tiguan didn't come to the USA until 2018.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Im pretty sure its not cross threaded, it would be really, really hard to do seeing as how its basically guided and I can see the threads on the far end extending from the subframe.

I can also wiggle it slightly back and forth. Literally everything about this makes me think its the bolt has either corroded inside (literally everything else i took off had some form of corrosion inside, even on the threads of the tie rod ends) or galling has taken place (when you use two metals improperly and they weld themselves together by rubbing against each other).

Im just amazed and how bad its been. I much prefer BMWs design with the nut on the end and, probably due to materials chosen, none of the bushings on my car even remotely attached themselves to the bolts. On this car its been a couple of days with PB blaster (although Im not sure if any is actually getting inside) and hitting it with an impact wrench and NO CHANGE.
 
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