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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been searching for a DIY to take apart my MKIV rear calipers to remove the pistons and replace the seals. Unfortunately the only DIYs I've found are for the front calipers.
I want to remove the seals and pistons to get the calipers powder coated.
Has anyone fully rebuilt a set of rear calipers?
I don't need pictures necessarily, just some direction. IICR, my Bentley Manual doesn't cover this.
Thanks! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: Replacing Rear Calipers Seals (craigalangibson)

You cannot fully disassemble the rear calipers, and there are seals inside that you can't get to, so powdercoating is a BAD IDEA, as the heat will destroy the seals, and THERE ARE NO SPARE PARTS AVAILABLE FOR REAR CALIPERS.
 

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Re: Replacing Rear Calipers Seals (craigalangibson)

Dust boot and piston seal, yes.
Internal replacement parts (parking brake mechanism is sealed), including other seals, NO.
Bentley does not cover disassembly of the rear calipers because there aren't any parts to reasemble. At one time, I saw a DYI on removing and replacing the dust boot, and piston seal, but that's it.



Modified by germancarnut51 at 1:30 PM 2-1-2010
 

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Hi. I had same kind of problem some weeks ago. I live in Estonia and here we have repair kit wich includes parking brake mechanism seals and so on. My local vw dealer didnt give me any information, i was told they dont do this job, they will just buy new calibers:D. So, there is a nut wich holds the hand brake mechanism in place, you need to unscrew it, but some tention under the lever and hit it with the hammer, the lever will come off and the parking brake system can come out now(ofc. you have to remove the pistion first)
I hope you could understand something becouse my english is very bad, let me know if more information is needed, i can give you some pictures to explain it more better.

Karl
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Re: (Karlll)

How did you remove the piston? And the bracket you are talking about is it the smaller, or larger one?
Pictures would be great!
Thanks for your help BTW http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 

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Re: Replacing Rear Calipers Seals (craigalangibson)

Hi again.
I suggest you to paint calibers when the old seals are still on and the calibers are intact. I re painted mine when they were already taken apart and some dirt and other bad stuff got inside the calibers and it was later very hard to get them properly cleaned.

Now how to take lucas 38-s apart..
Ofcourse first step is to clean them, so there isnt any dirt or sand or whatever that could later get inside the caliber and damage the pistion.
Next, if they are properly cleaned you can get the pistion out, the pistion comes out when you turn it anticlockwise, (some use tool like that for turning:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=40732 , i just used small pipe tongs). Pistions should be treated carefuly and try not to scratch it or so, if theyl seem good pistions can be reused, i do not suggest to use aftermarket pistions bec some of them dont have the same strong protective layer as the oem ones have.


Now comes the hardest part, if you wanna get the hand brake mechanism out, you should remove the retainer clip wich stops the mechanis from jumping out (
http://karll.planet.ee/iste/PA110331.jpg - it is not visible on this picture but it is inside there, watch and youl see : ) ) if this is done there isnt nothing dificult anymore.

Il carry on some other night..
 

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I've been looking into this as well. I've already removed everything on the caliper except the small boot where the ebrake actuator comes out the back and the lever attaches. I haven't found anything anywhere that says it can be removed and it doesn't want to come out. Any insight?
 

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I've been looking into this as well. I've already removed everything on the caliper except the small boot where the ebrake actuator comes out the back and the lever attaches. I haven't found anything anywhere that says it can be removed and it doesn't want to come out. Any insight?
Wow. First of all, I would like to say that I would not recommend anyone but an experienced mechanic do this. Now I know why it was suggested to me, that I should just replace the caliper. I thought that Les Schwab was just jacking up the costs unnecessary.

That said. I am blown away by the engineering on these things. Holy cow man! The way that the piston has a threaded shaft. The internal bearing inside the piston housing itself. The design of the parking break mechanisim and how it ratchets.

So I removed the piston and old seals last night. What a nightmare. It took me several attempts before I finally was able to get the boot properly seated both in the housing and on the piston itself. I took pics that I will post at a later time.

So again, I don't recommend that any do this. Spend the money and replace the cailpers if there is any sign of damage or of heavy deterioration. Moreover, if you bought the car used like I did, just budget it in. The same way VW owners have to budget a timing belt replacement on interference engines. I have gone through all that trouble just to find that out.

I have 135,000 miles on my car. Obviously, the pads had been replaced, probably twice in it's life. These are the original calipers, I can tell ya that. I am just going to replace them in the next 10,000 miles anyway. That is about when the fronts will have to be done.
 

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just check rock auto.... should have everything you needed between rock auto and ECS.... should have everything you needed the seal the boot under "Caliper Repair Kit", the piston under caliper piston or the damper if you have that in your caliper.
Check ECS for parking break springs and those little plastic clips on the axle. if your model requires them..

This requires you to take the caliper off completely, so be prepare to change and bleed all fluids few times. and the new seal might be a pain to fit in, I had to re-use the old one.
 

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just check rock auto.... should have everything you needed between rock auto and ECS.... should have everything you needed the seal the boot under "Caliper Repair Kit", the piston under caliper piston or the damper if you have that in your caliper.
Check ECS for parking break springs and those little plastic clips on the axle. if your model requires them..

This requires you to take the caliper off completely, so be prepare to change and bleed all fluids few times. and the new seal might be a pain to fit in, I had to re-use the old one.


It doesn't pay to use third manufactured parts. Genuine OE parts are TRW. Seal kits (piston seal and boot) are available almost everywhere for $10 or so (does two calipers). Uses the same kit as the MKIII rear calipers. If you follow the written procedure, use OE parts, and a decent service tool (I use the older Harbor Freight set) changing the piston seal and boot is easy. I use a silicone based brake assembly grease (Sylglide), spread on the inside of the caliper and on the piston seal and boot.
 

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lol, if you believe OE are better by all means go get OE and help the other-poster out and post up the part # for his needs as in this thread....... Have no issue with the seal and boot and the piston rebuild for past 20K or 30K miles with Non-OE parts, if it is the correct part.... and it dependents on the person doing the rebuild...... sorry Not a fan of that German part for German car scam...... just a fan of parts that fits and it runs good/fine/great. I think there are two different model of the rear brakes for MKIVs .... even documented in the bently manual.......Can't tell the other poster if they are the same seal kit or not... but pretty sure the parking brake mechanism is different by a little.... I have order parts from sites that they swear it fits and for that model car I have.... had no use for it.

This is basically what I did..... but of cause not for everyone not comfortable with rebuilding brakes, your life and other people's life dependents on it.





 
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