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Discussion Starter #141 (Edited)
Still tired of the scraping and grinding. Did a little more today, should be ready to cut out the bad section tomorrow. Then will need to clean up and repair the lip on the bulkhead where the bed floor is supported before thinking about welding in the new panel.

Spent a bit of time on the Mk3 seat conversion this afternoon. Got the passenger seat pan done. Will do the same on the driver's seat soon, then reassemble them all. (Need to leave the completed side apart so I can use it as a guide.)

Converting Mk3 seats for a Mk1 has 2 parts. One is that you need to narrow the rear slider track by about 2⅛" (to 18⅞"). The excess all needs to come off the outboard side. The other thing that's needed is to reverse the side that the slider release operates on. On standard seats it's pretty simple (minor fabrication) to do that by swapping the release levers on the 2 seats. That's what was done to the Passat seats my truck came with.

But on my new seats, the driver's side is height adjustable, which makes it far more difficult to do the lever swap. So I'm going to swap the front mounts on the floor from side to side instead. Should be fairly simple to cut them off and weld them back on the other side, since I'm going to be welding new pans in anyway.

55470


55471
 

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Discussion Starter #142
More noisy, messy work. Had to make a trip to HF, as my little air die grinder with 3" cutoff wheels was not up to the job. Some 4½" wheels for my Ryobi electric grinder made short work of it.

Will plan to repair the bulkhead tomorrow. It's not too bad, just a few patches needed. Then weld in the new panel, which can be seen laying in place below. The patch is 22.5 x 105 cm. That 22.5 size is well selected so that the patch will sit on both the bulkhead ledge and the first crossmember. Should work well.

55602


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Looks like nice, straight cuts. Did you have to cut any spot welds to get that out? It seems that is how the bed is attached to the bulkheads.

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Discussion Starter #144 (Edited)
The straight cut from side to side, being 22.5 cm back from the bulkhead, is forward of the spot welds on the first crossmember, but still far enough back that there is a lip of the crossmember to rest the patch on. Try not to cut too deep on this cut so that you don't slice the crossmember as well.

There are spot welds every inch or so at both sides, if you were going to use the full 105 cm width of the panel. The edges of the factory panel on my truck are still quite solid, the rust is concentrated towards the center, so I sliced the sides a bit inboard of the spot welds. Why fight them if I don't need to?

And of course the leading edge is spot welded to the bulkhead, but those weren't tough to chisel loose due to the rust.

If I were going to do it again, I'd cut as marked here. The side cuts one flat rib in on each side, the long cut at 22.5 cm the same as I did above, but then also a full width cut down the middle so that I could lift the sections out the long way rather than pulling it up from side to side. Seems like it might be easier that way.

55607
 

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Discussion Starter #145
Also worth noting that the part you cut out will probably be well stuck with gobs of the nasty VW seam sealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #146 (Edited)
Had some other family duties today, didn't get as much time to work in the truck bed as I expected. Have started on the bulkhead patches, and discovered (no real surprise) that actually welding the real sheet metal on the truck is significantly more difficult to do well than practice welding is. Initial work is pretty cobbled looking. Getting better as I go. Pictures tomorrow after I clean it up some...
 

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Discussion Starter #147
Cleaned up my first patch, ground it down and re-welded some of it. My results are improving as I do more. I'm pleased with this first small patch now, will move on to the next section. Probably 2 more small patches on the bulkhead ledge before I can weld in the bed floor patch.

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Discussion Starter #148 (Edited)
More patching this afternoon, my welding skills are improving, but not yet great. More on that tomorrow, and perhaps getting to the bed floor.

Floor pans arrived today...

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If you’re not welding all the time, don’t expect perfection. It’s like anything; practice makes perfect and if you take a long break, you lose your chops. Just keep going...

Are those pans raw steel? I’ve bought Klockerholm panels and they’ve always been in black primer.

-Todd
 

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Discussion Starter #150 (Edited)
These pans have Klockerholm stickers on them, no reason to think they are counterfeit. I've seen other recent pictures of them that are not black also, so there may have been a production change. There's no sign of flash rust or any oil coating or anything. I wonder if they may have gone to using some other sort of anti-rust treatment.

Edit - The steel on the repair panels that were used on my Porsche were stamped from 'Galvannealed Steel'. These look much the same. Galvannealed - Wikipedia
 

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I wasn’t implying they were counterfeit; I was stating I’ve never seen that finish.

If they’re coated in zinc, no matter the process, you’ll want to acid strip or grind the zinc off, prior to welding. An inch or 2 will likely be sufficient. zinc fumes are toxic.

-Todd
 

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I just bought the same pans for my Westy GTI, came in the same state, yet to install.
 

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It would be strange to zinc coat a panel designed to be welded in, if zinc fumes are toxic wouldn’t it?

Still I would like to know because I have several panels that are inflated that I need to weld in


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Not necessarily... zinc is a great corrosion inhibitor. One would think a welder would know the hazards when dealing with zinc. Weld through primer is zinc rich, and also has its heath risks.

There are plenty of processes, that have its fair share of heath risks and rely on education, trainping and ppe, to be carried out properly. Ever use 2k paint? It can cause serious health issues without the correct gear.

I’ll tell you read up on it, for your own safety. Google welders’ sickness.

-Todd
 

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Discussion Starter #155
I've found no info on Klockerholm and zinc or Galvannealed Steel. I will see if I can find out before I get to the floors.
 

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Discussion Starter #156
On a related note, the bed repair patch panel I got from Heritage in the UK also seems to be rust-treated. No flash on it either, even in the high humidity of Western Oregon winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #157

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Thanks for finding that. To be honest I prefer this to the flaky black stuff which you have to completely remove if you want to paint it.
 

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Not necessarily... zinc is a great corrosion inhibitor. One would think a welder would know the hazards when dealing with zinc. Weld through primer is zinc rich, and also has its heath risks.

There are plenty of processes, that have its fair share of heath risks and rely on education, trainping and ppe, to be carried out properly. Ever use 2k paint? It can cause serious health issues without the correct gear.

I’ll tell you read up on it, for your own safety. Google welders’ sickness.

-Todd
When I had the lower radiator support welded into my Quantum the welder told me to get a copper weld though primer, I did some research on line before buying, I'll post a picture of the can later after I get back from the shop
 
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