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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So recently my GLI was involved in a wreck and the insurance called it totaled. The damage doesn’t look that bad but the repair costs more than it’s worth nowadays so it’s done. If I let them take it I could have $4457 or I could retain it as a salvage and get $3654. Having more than $800 in bolt on it was a no brainer. So I took that money and scoured Craigslist and FB marketplace and came upon a 2003 Audi A4 B6 Avant Quattro…in no particular order.

It has all classic indications of a blown head gasket. The PO was the second owner and works construction in the Big Easy…New Orleans. He just wanted it gone as apparently repairs in the city are very costly. He left a receipt in the glove box of a valve cover gasket, coolant reservoir, and coolant that tallied over $1000 in labor/parts cost. When the head gasket was an obvious diagnosis that was either overlooked or not affordable.

On to the car. 5 speed Quattro with the Torsen center diff. Once I get the head decked and replaced I’ll be flushing anything that has fluid and replacing it. Accessing any turbo damage at that time also and possibly repairing the f23 with some fancy blades and better bearings to replace the stocker. I’ll be stripping the SAI and EVAP from under the hood when I’m in there since it feels like a lot going on under there.

Ordered valve cover, head, exhaust, and intake gaskets. Timing belt, metal water pump, head bolts, and will try a mechanical tensioner from a 1990 2.0 this time.

HVAC flapper thing has a code. I’m hoping that it’s just got some loose foam or something blocking the flapper from flapping. AC blows cool, not cold.

It has a set of 5 proper wheels also. One of them has a little crub rash that I may can sand and file down. Just need to find some rattle can paint to match. This will start life as a work commuter for me to travel 700-900 miles deep into West Texas from Mississippi. So I’m actually going to look for a mild all terrain vs a street tire since winters and BLM dirt roads can be rough a few months out of the year.


Old thread on my GLI. Eventually most of these parts will make their way over. The front mount and water injection will be first to make the transition.



The radio and speakers suck. Bet they were nice 19 years ago but they aren’t now. Headunit is missing a couple of buttons and the volume knob just spins round and round. Front passenger door speaker is dead and rear drivers is, too. This issue is shortlisted as well.

Found these that will fit up to a 6.75” speaker. Hmm.






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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Forgot this one. #3 was moist looking but still had some carbon build up.


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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Where in"west" Texas? What route do you take?

If you're ever in the lampasas/lometa area, hit me up.

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I20 from Mississippi to Midland or Pecos. Lately been hooking north around Sweetwater and heading to Carlsbad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You stay on 20, you're a couple hours north of me traveling. That's a tornado alley drive lol

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I missed that recent ice storm DFW pile up by 2 hours. Haven’t encountered any tornadoes yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did some cleaning yesterday to get down to the good stuff. Still have a fair amount more to shuck out of there. It’s been so long since I cleaned up my GLI bay I had forgotten just how cluttered it is.


So I finally got the intake manifold off after snipping 4-5 hoses off and then the head pulled. No obvious signs of a blown gasket besides the shiny #2. Block looks good and head looks good. Even the gasket looks good. Hoping that it was just whizzing past the metal sandwich style gasket. I didn’t get it pulled until late in the evening and the sun was setting here. Gonna give it the stank eye in the morning and see if I missed something. I may just send it with a new gasket and forgo the head decking. Otherwise I’d have to get in line at the local machine shop and it could be upwards of 1-2 weeks with these guys.

I’m thinking a medium sized tote filled with a gallon of SuperClean degreaser and topped off with water until it covers all the head. Let it soak a day until I get the hoses cleaned up and these pesky torx bolts off that allow the rad/fans to slide forward for access to do the water pump and timing belt.

It was dark enough the phone flashed for it. I think my fancy silicone hose and adaptor from the GLI should fit that crankcase vent and possibly make it to the valve cover vent. Then I can VTA like it’s apparently been doing for some time unbeknownst to the PO.


I got a resistor kit for the SAI/EVAP delete and doubt that it works. I had to keep the EVAP solenoid plugged in on the GLI and looks like no big names are writing these out anymore. It may be time for me to invest in a Maestro setup if I’m gonna stick with VAG.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Oh, coolant flange was new as well as the temp sensor. Some random hoses had worm gear clamps and appears the intake manifold has been removed before. Cat looks to be a replacement, too. Gonna dig a little deeper snd see how hard it’d be to rebuild the f23 I have with a snapped shaft. The compressor is still 100% but the hot side is ate TF up bad. It’d be nice to have that little bit extra and maybe keep the temps down. Also gonna have a long look and see what I’d need to do to swap my FMIC over. Looks easy peasy plumbing wise except for a mounting point for it hang on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Cleaned up the head in a SuperClean bath. Don’t leave it too long because this stuff eats aluminum as well as carbon. Left it maybe 1.5 hours and 3-4 flips as well as a couple of rinse downs. It was fairly bad looking. Came out good snd clean though.

1.5 gallons of SuperClean and 5 gallons of tap water. This is what was running through the engine, too.



I flushed all the oil channels until I could hear dripping in the oil pan using brake cleaner. Removed the turbo feed line and blew it out as well flushed with brake clean. The turbo return wasn’t gravity feeding so it got a good flushing and now it does drain. Busted the plastic crankcase piece just by looking at it. My silicone one fits but routes towards the exhaust in this non horizontal setup. Should be an easy fix later.

Slapped the head back on and torqued it down. 30ft/lbs then two sets of 90*. I hate stretch bolts.



The intake manifold had a lot of build up. So I tossed it into the bath, as well. Note the fresh foam coming out of the throttle body hole.



It cleaned so well I may just paint it black along with the valve cover.




Now for the manual timing belt tensioner. This thing is a snap and I kick myself in the nuts for not doing this sooner. To hell with an OEM hydro tensioner when this is 1/3 to 1/2 the price.


I shaved the old hydro tensioner down a little bit to get the new pulley on but afterwards realized I possibly didn’t need to do so.



Anyway. An overall eventful noon to dark day. Should fire it up tomorrow.
 
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Very nice work!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Trying to beat a Hurricane and avoid shop time looking at the head I took a gamble. Well, full blown sent resulted in a full blown fail exact same symptoms. 90% sure head is fukt. 90% sure the head from my VW AWP will work since they appear identical. Gonna pull compression then add some oil and do it again. May be going full blown again if the rings are rurnt as well.
 

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replace oil pump, run break in oil in it, not synthetic, run a tight plug gap, make sure you use distilled water not tap. the 20v loves distilled( it is the correct way anyway).

but def switch the head.

I had a bunch of passat/a4 like that at the dealer, it took dozens of flushes to get all the muck out of the block and the radiator had to be replaced everytime if it got in the cooling system. Oil cooler can be destroyed also, it can't take the expansion of the muck and will mix coolant/oil also.


lastly, go ignitron. if you want a maestro setup, i have a few to sell, as i have been switching my customers to ignitron. i've been ignitron for over a year, it's incredible. sorry i'm rambling, crazy tired.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
replace oil pump, run break in oil in it, not synthetic, run a tight plug gap, make sure you use distilled water not tap. the 20v loves distilled( it is the correct way anyway).

but def switch the head.

I had a bunch of passat/a4 like that at the dealer, it took dozens of flushes to get all the muck out of the block and the radiator had to be replaced everytime if it got in the cooling system. Oil cooler can be destroyed also, it can't take the expansion of the muck and will mix coolant/oil also.


lastly, go ignitron. if you want a maestro setup, i have a few to sell, as i have been switching my customers to ignitron. i've been ignitron for over a year, it's incredible. sorry i'm rambling, crazy tired.
Couldn’t find the detergent oil I wanted so I went with some 0w-20. After 5 miles and maybe 1) minutes run time it still looks clear. I poured a gallon of gas into the crankcase vent in half galling increments and let it soak and then drain. Then did some oil the same way and the last drain was almost clear. I completely forgot the oil cooler. Will pop those lines and look next time I fool with it. Miraculously the coolant side is oil free and I only use distilled.

What sort of price point on the Ignitron? Newbie tuning friendly?

Edit: Found it. Looks like $1000 for a complete plug and play standalone ECU that replaces the ECU. I’m intrigued. But this is to be a work commuter good on gas. Have you ever tuned for low octane and say 20-25psi before? That’s where it would be if I put my Holset on there and premium gas prices would negate any savings of better mileage on long hauls.
 

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I can tune anything man, I do it for a living I used to have my own dyno(might be getting either actually).

I can give you a commuter file for daily driving, then you push your traction control button and you've got a fun sauce on the menu.

I can do anything you want with ignitron. I'm currently doing full flex fuel on 3 cars, one of which will have 87 as it's base file and full e85 as is max, multiple boost profiles to change on the fly as well that integrate with the flex fuel. A lot of work on my end, but it will be pretty sweet.


A matron plugs right in and on the ME 7.5 system can pretty much do anything you desire. You can add in so much stuff that it's not even funny. A highly recommended getting it with the 4 bar map sensor and tossing that in immediately,and just run alphaN for the time being, but eventually set it up to go full true speed density.

It's an investment that makes maestro look like child play. Funny enough, I'm doing an update tune for a mk2 syncro jetta that is big turbo 1.8t in Canada on maestro. Hoping he'll make the such next year. But, know this they just came back into sick so think fast, cos they go fast and it tastes time to make new ones.

Pics::

My last AlphaN file on my personal car(did it to show its insanely capable)

Maestro alphaN and it's meager offering.

Both showing it's logging interface. Maestro is only that, you can watch over 300 channels with ignitron. At far far greater suited and resolution. You can setup autolog and just pull out off street a drive if you don't want a tablet or laptop in the car, etc. And in barely even scratching the surface with this. In fact, I should make a video and post in here.



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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I can tune anything man, I do it for a living I used to have my own dyno(might be getting either actually).

I can give you a commuter file for daily driving, then you push your traction control button and you've got a fun sauce on the menu.

I can do anything you want with ignitron. I'm currently doing full flex fuel on 3 cars, one of which will have 87 as it's base file and full e85 as is max, multiple boost profiles to change on the fly as well that integrate with the flex fuel. A lot of work on my end, but it will be pretty sweet.


A matron plugs right in and on the ME 7.5 system can pretty much do anything you desire. You can add in so much stuff that it's not even funny. A highly recommended getting it with the 4 bar map sensor and tossing that in immediately,and just run alphaN for the time being, but eventually set it up to go full true speed density.

It's an investment that makes maestro look like child play. Funny enough, I'm doing an update tune for a mk2 syncro jetta that is big turbo 1.8t in Canada on maestro. Hoping he'll make the such next year. But, know this they just came back into sick so think fast, cos they go fast and it tastes time to make new ones.

Pics::

My last AlphaN file on my personal car(did it to show its insanely capable)

Maestro alphaN and it's meager offering.

Both showing it's logging interface. Maestro is only that, you can watch over 300 channels with ignitron. At far far greater suited and resolution. You can setup autolog and just pull out off street a drive if you don't want a tablet or laptop in the car, etc. And in barely even scratching the surface with this. In fact, I should make a video and post in here.



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Wow. Well above my skill set. So for the $1000 buy in I’d get a complete setup to tune and all? Base file for my specific car or would it all need to be made from scratch? I’ll likely roll over all my bits from the previous 1.8t into this Audi eventually so looking at 400/400 if done right. Engine wise this one looks to be the same mechanically besides the returnless fuel rail.

Pull both heads, pull H beam rifled rods from old block, replace Audi rods, high compression pistons this go round, need a clutch to hold it, longitudinal motor will make manifold installation a snap, Holset, injectors, water/meth, FMIC, and fuel pump. All I need to buy is crank/rod bearings, gaskets, fuel pump, and a clutch…and the software. $2000 maybe and 2 days labor. Hmmmm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The base file you can create will start the car 99.9%of the time of its mechanically sound. You on ig?

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Yes but never look at it. Deleted app cause I never used it. Don’t even know my password.
 
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