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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
It's a secured messaging app. You can send documents, files, HD video and picture, secured texting and calling, etc.

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Ah. Will have a look into it.

One last question, will this ECU be tied to one vehicle? If and ever when this car gets in a wreck can I simply love the ECU to another? Not like what I have currently tuned in my GLI that can only go into another standard AWP if immobilizer is deleted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Would my 2004 GLI 180hp k03 be better than this 2003 A4 170hp? I need to dig that old turbo out of the back of my shed and see if it’s an ‘S’.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The only difference is a "muffler", otherwise software is mostly the difference.

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Ah. Figured I’d need to cut that muffler off to make it fit better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Physically they are the same size nearly. Cutting the muffler of would not be a good idea.

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How so?

I’m getting a little torn on this project. Would like a little more oomph but don’t want to spend more than what I was allotted from the insurance claim. I’ve got a k04/f23 with a snapped shaft and spent hot turbine I can rebuild but am looking at around $2000 more to spend. Going to need a suspension refresh as well new springs (I think I found what I need) to give slight lift, firmer ride, and more load carrying ability. Basically every commute in my Tacoma is costing me about $150-200 more in gas round trip. Toyotas are nigh indestructible, but love to drink the gas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
Rear Avant stock shocks
Tall-287mm
Wide-132mm
Wire-14.5mm

Rear Avant sports
280mm
131mm
14.5mm

Ordering A6 C6 fronts for v6 for my A4 Avant rear. Similar pig tail coil ends as rears.
297mm
135mm
15.5mm

For reference using the sedan rear
Stock
294mm
14mm

Sports
260mm
14.5mm

So it is 34mm shorter free standing with 0.5mm more coil and only nets a 20mm drop. So theoretically using this to extrapolate I would net at less than half the distance if dropped but gain as much to the lift??? Guesstimating maybe a 20-30mm lift (unladen) and with added load capacity for the rear.

Fronts are easy, sort of. A4 B6 1.8t Quattro.
Stock
Tall-309
Wide-139
Wire-16

Sports
270mm
136mm
16mm

Going with fronts for an A6 C6 3.2fsi
339mm
135mm
16mm

Expecting slight rake unladen. $200 gamble anyway. If it’s completely out of whack and not able to align then fall back would be a simple set of Eibachs since they supposedly have the highest spring rates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I have a gen1 gtx2867r I'm not using. Used

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It’d be nice. Ima have to pump the brakes for now until I’ve gotten it running for several months. Tallied up I’m $950 in after placing an order for another head gasket and bolts. ARP bolts are 2-3 months out everywhere I’ve seen. Still need tires and brakes. I do have fluids to flush the diffs and tranny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 · (Edited)
Stripped the Audi in less than 2 hours from presentable, running car to void of a intake/exhaust manifolds and a head. So the personal challenge was initiated and I did likewise to my Jetta in about an hour.






I decided to install the turbo manifold for the Audi on the work bench. Glad I did because two bolts simply never torqued and just pulled the threads out. They snugged, but not enough. So I’ll be headed out early AM looking for an m10 or either 3/8” tap set. Whichever comes easiest. Also need 3 bolts for this “test pipe” since those that came with it are too big for the OEM catback and garbage as well.

Edit: m10 tap set
 

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I highly suggest getting rid of multi bolt downs on the exhaust and switch to vbands or slip over clamps. So much easier to deal with.

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I highly suggest getting rid of multi bolt downs on the exhaust and switch to vbands or slip over clamps. So much easier to deal with.

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I’ve got the clamps for it and will do so later on. The catback on this thing seems smaller than that on my GLI. 3” off the turbo then necks down to maybe 2.5” then off to the stock mid pipe section looks like it’s even smaller. I’ll put a caliper on it after lunch. Current plans are to just get it running and shoot for late spring or summer to pull the motor for bottom end improvement and a beefier clutch. After pricing 9.5ish:1 pistons vs my 8.5:1 that I own I will just stick with lower compression. How much power is actually to be gained with the extra compression? Likewise, since I’ll be using as a cheap gas commuter wouldn’t the lower compression be more ideally suited for staving off knock?

I tapped the two culprit stud holes and proceeded to torque down the exhaust manifold. All was good until I went from 23 to 25ft/lbs and made a second pass for my peace of mind. Lost another set of threads and tapped it as well one more that was questionable looking. All good at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Now the Audi AMB head had shorter stud holes than the VW AWP head. But, the Audi studs have more thread engagement than the VW studs. Kind of a strange scenario in this matter. If anyone is looking to upgrade studs and don’t want to cut and grind your own, just order some Audi studs. Whodathunkit?

VW stud on top.
Audi stud in the middle.
And my homemade stud with an allen insert on bottom.
 

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I run longer studs on everything.

Lower compression is loss of power period, unless you have a very very large turbo and 40psi+. You will see loses across the entire curve with 8.5:1.
9.5:1 you will see big torque gains per psi, especially under the curve therefore making drive-ability day to day much easier. Management,whether it be reflash on oem ecu or standalone are far far advanced from the 80's when lower compression was used to fight knock because they couldn't tune ignition well if at all.

The added benefits of using something like Ignitron, I can tune a commuter file for you on the fuel, with lowered boost and so on. But,you will need to empty the tank and run nearly half a tank of 93, before you fill up and want to run a 93 file. The actual cost savings might not be what you expect due to the lowered octane and lowered compression, you will need more fuel and boost to make stock like power due to the timing being so conservative due to the fuel.

Alot fo people doing reflash tuning will probably say no due to the lowered octane and compression combination, so be very careful of their experience level. This is wear having ignitron and flexfuel sensor would be awesome. tune for 87, tune for full E85, flex fuel blends the two and you could see interesting results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Ah ha. Duly noted and maybe I can part out this o2m tranny and axles to offset some pistons then. I’m going to pull the block and tranny sometime after the weather cools off and rework it. I also have a nice clutch kit for the o2m tranny if anyone is interested. Tranny, axles, clutch kit with SMF and will cut a deal….


As for the stock midpipe back it is a 55mm OD. So maybe 2” ID more or less. Seems significantly restricted especially catted and stock mufflers x3. Next round of modding will be either a 2.5 or 3” into possibly a Flowmaster super/delta 44 or 70 with the dual outlets and then out the back.
 

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Ah ha. Duly noted and maybe I can part out this o2m tranny and axles to offset some pistons then. I’m going to pull the block and tranny sometime after the weather cools off and rework it. I also have a nice clutch kit for the o2m tranny if anyone is interested. Tranny, axles, clutch kit with SMF and will cut a deal….


As for the stock midpipe back it is a 55mm OD. So maybe 2” ID more or less. Seems significantly restricted especially catted and stock mufflers x3. Next round of modding will be either a 2.5 or 3” into possibly a Flowmaster super/delta 44 or 70 with the dual outlets and then out the back.
Go for a hood exit exhaust!




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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Wired in a single din radio to the factory amp and it turned out pretty decent sounding. Way more options than the OEM cassette deck. LOL. It is a JVC KD-X270BT and has more options than I know what to do with really. I got it because of the preamp outputs and the fact its a shorty that doesn't do CDs. Strictly BT, AM/FM, and USB. I have a mini tablet/giant phone I take everywhere with my gigs and gigs of music and it'll play that. I need to get an installation kit, DUH!!, and an amplified antenna adaptor so I can get my George Norry Coast to Coast on those long drive nights. I need to find a switched power source cause the one labeled on the diagram doesn't work.

Right rear taillights did not work. Looked into that and got the brake and blinker to work due to a bad ground in the light housing from water intrusion. The reverse light just doesn't have power to the passenger side but the driver's side does. Having difficulty sourcing a new/use taillight assembly so I may be stuck with trying to seal this one up. I'd need to remove it completely and start over it looks like because I already tried to seal with some epoxy.

Ran a boost gauge. Tied it in and started running the tubing into the cabin and hit a brick wall. This is way too complicated vs any other vehicle I've owned. Chalked it up to learning curve and ran it out behind the front tire through a little teet looking grommet. Sealed that and then drilled a hole up to the rain tray and ended up having to install two small grommets there since it is double walled. Ugh. I plan on running double or maybe triple gauges in the single din slot. I'd like at least to have boost, EGT, and AFR readily viewable. Took it for a spin and it's factory 10psi.

I do believe that'll be it for a few weeks while I wait on headlights and a taillight. I'm considering powder coating these wheels since I'll need new tires anyway. Any opinions on color outside of the OEM silver finish?
 
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