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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello people!!!

I need a little help here.

Right now I am building my turbo R32 (Damm that sound Nice!!) I need all the information as possible to do the return fuel system to my car. I tried searching but I didn't find much info about it, so if you can help please share, I really appreciate it

Thanks,

Luis
 

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Hello people!!!

I need a little help here.

Right now I am building my turbo R32 (Damm that sound Nice!!) I need all the information as possible to do the return fuel system to my car. I tried searching but I didn't find much info about it, so if you can help please share, I really appreciate it

Thanks,

Luis
I'm doing the same to mine, well a 3.2 TT but same thing.

You have two lines coming out of your gas tank, they hook into the filter/FPR (the FPR is built into the filter). You'd need to remove the stock filter and you can use a mk4 R32 filter or any other filter. You can keep the stock feed line and simply run a return from the rail to where the return is near the fuel filter.

You'll need a new fuel rail / 4 bar FPR. You'll want to put a check valve to keep pressure in the rail for starting purposes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm doing the same to mine, well a 3.2 TT but same thing.

You have two lines coming out of your gas tank, they hook into the filter/FPR (the FPR is built into the filter). You'd need to remove the stock filter and you can use a mk4 R32 filter or any other filter. You can keep the stock feed line and simply run a return from the rail to where the return is near the fuel filter.

You'll need a new fuel rail / 4 bar FPR. You'll want to put a check valve to keep pressure in the rail for starting purposes.
Thanks a lot man. Can you send me a list of all the parts that I need to buy to do this?

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So what's your build consist of?

Assuming that you dropped compression 8.5:1 or 9:1, and have an SRI. Head studs for spacer if you are using one.

15 psi is generally the gatekeeper before you need to start changing a lot of parts.

For example if you wanted to run 15 psi it would maximize engine longevity, and all you'd need is a DW65v in the tank with bigger injectors say 550cc.

To go beyond 16-17 psi you'll be at the upper limit of the above setup.

To hit 20 psi, your DW65v pump won't flow enough. You'll need at least an in tank 044 or stock /DW with a second pump / surge tank. Convert to return with rail / lines / filter / fpr / second pump etc. Bigger injectors like 750cc and up, bigger MAF housing and MAF sensor.

I'd almost recommend keeping the returnless setup with a DW65v and 550s. You can always convert later on.



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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So what's your build consist of?

Assuming that you dropped compression 8.5:1 or 9:1, and have an SRI. Head studs for spacer if you are using one.

15 psi is generally the gatekeeper before you need to start changing a lot of parts.

For example if you wanted to run 15 psi it would maximize engine longevity, and all you'd need is a DW65v in the tank with bigger injectors say 550cc.

To go beyond 16-17 psi you'll be at the upper limit of the above setup.

To hit 20 psi, your DW65v pump won't flow enough. You'll need at least an in tank 044 or stock /DW with a second pump / surge tank. Convert to return with rail / lines / filter / fpr / second pump etc. Bigger injectors like 750cc and up, bigger MAF housing and MAF sensor.

I'd almost recommend keeping the returnless setup with a DW65v and 550s. You can always convert later on.



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Ok this is what I have so far:

HPA DTM Kit (Borg Warner 7670)
CTS SRI
4mm head spacer
ARP head studs
Ceramic coated rod bearings with ARP hardware (From HPA)
Promaf
870cc Injectors
Setrab External Oil Cooler
Custom Intercooler setup
Bosh 044 inline
Stock internals :S
 

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Ok this is what I have so far:

HPA DTM Kit (Borg Warner 7670)
CTS SRI
4mm head spacer
ARP head studs
Ceramic coated rod bearings with ARP hardware (From HPA)
Promaf
870cc Injectors
Setrab External Oil Cooler
Custom Intercooler setup
Bosh 044 inline
Stock internals :S
Cool, looks like you have things pretty much squared away.

I have an 034 kit on my car so I have a lot of 034 parts (you may find similar brands)

Fuel Rail: https://store.034motorsport.com/fuel-rail-mkiv-mkv-volkswagen-r32-8p-audi-a3-3-2l-24v-vr6.html
FPR Housing: https://store.034motorsport.com/fue...ing-adapter-remote-mount-billet-aluminum.html
FPR: https://store.034motorsport.com/fuel-pressure-regulator-drop-in-4-bar-audi-volkswagen-rail.html (might be able to find this locally..I dunno)

You'd just need to swap out the filter/fpr with just a filter take that line into your inline 044 then to the rail. Return from the FPR to the return line that was in your old filter and that's it.

If you need fuel fittings Integrated Engineering has a good selection to go from the factory quick connects to 6an or reverse.
 

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FWIW, since I eliminated my evap system, I used the evap line as my return line. Makes it less complicated. I'm also running oem headbolts at 16-17psi for a year now with no issues...but since you already have the headbolts then just install those. I've run into fuel starvation issues (mostly when launching from a stand still on a low tank) so I ended up installing a surge tank...problem solved. Also, an MK4 fuel rail will be plenty for your needs and are relatively cheap...if you can find one. I couldn't find one in time so I went with the 034/Blue Water setup.
 

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I installed a MK4 R32 fuel rail into my MK5 golf, plug and play. As previously mentioned, route the return to where your old regulator / fuel filter used to be as you no longer need the regulator within the fuel filter.

Overkill system for 450 bhp you have there! Those injectors, MAF, fuel pump, are good for well over 450.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
FWIW, since I eliminated my evap system, I used the evap line as my return line. Makes it less complicated. I'm also running oem headbolts at 16-17psi for a year now with no issues...but since you already have the headbolts then just install those. I've run into fuel starvation issues (mostly when launching from a stand still on a low tank) so I ended up installing a surge tank...problem solved. Also, an MK4 fuel rail will be plenty for your needs and are relatively cheap...if you can find one. I couldn't find one in time so I went with the 034/Blue Water setup.
Goog to know sir. Do you have more info about the evap delete?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I installed a MK4 R32 fuel rail into my MK5 golf, plug and play. As previously mentioned, route the return to where your old regulator / fuel filter used to be as you no longer need the regulator within the fuel filter.

Overkill system for 450 bhp you have there! Those injectors, MAF, fuel pump, are good for well over 450.
Thanks man, I know it is a bit overkill but here is the thing, I live outside USA and for me is very hard/expensive to send the ECU and Mechatronic to re-tune if I want more power so Im going this route thinking on the near future ;)
 

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I know this is old an old post, but what did you end up doing? I have the DTM kit as well and struggled which route to go for an intercooler solution. I an going to buy a used 034 SRI, And after talking to HPA they were discussing why the return fuel system is better than the DW65v solution. It’s confusing which direction to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I know this is old an old post, but what did you end up doing? I have the DTM kit as well and struggled which route to go for an intercooler solution. I an going to buy a used 034 SRI, And after talking to HPA they were discussing why the return fuel system is better than the DW65v solution. It’s confusing which direction to go.
Well... I stopped the build because I didnt have time to work with it but I will continue in a month or so, the car is parked on my garage since then.

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I know this is an old thread but I am in the same boat here.... Turbo and headspacer are in, and my power goals are identical. I got UM software because I hear HPA's is trash, and [email protected] UM told me to scrap the dw65. So I returned the dw65 and got a bosch 044 300LPH in-line pump. I now understand I will have to add a regulator and delete the filter/regulator combo with a straight filter, but do I just leave the stock in-tank pump in the tank and let it do its thing? Or does it need to be disconnected or removed?
 
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