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Took a while, but after being hesitant to take it the dealership to fix the suspension issue with the MSS Kit on, mustered up the guts after dropping the car off to fix a wiring issue with the buttons on the steering wheel and a rattling seat belt.
They fixed it all, including the clunk over pot holes. It glides like stock now, no noise just pure bliss. Looks like quite possibly an install issue, so I guess the VW shop I liked is out now. Might need to go back to my old shop who I never had issues with...

Unfortunately not sure what the exact issue was, which doesn't help. The service rep just said they checked the front suspension and tightened it up. It might be because of the aftermarket parts and them needing to do it as courtesy.

Now that the suspension isn't making noise, the rear hatch latch seems to be noisy. Does it end?

House renovations are done, for the winter - spring mod time is around the corner now, I can smell it!
I had some clunking with low speed turns and over bumps, and it was the top nut on the strut tower. Can be accessed from above under the windshield drip tray. You need to either get a special ratchet or rig up something to be able to pass an allen key through the ratchet because other wise you will spin the damper inside when you try to tighten the nut.

Anyway, if it comes back I would try that. Takes 15 minutes to solve.
 
Discussion starter · #42 · (Edited)
Just adding some notes about the 3" 42 Draft Design downpipe install /w high flow cat, in case I need to quickly find them :
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...l-after-DP-lowering&p=113359151#post113359151

I had forgotten to install the spacer for the Unibrace. This had the tech fiddle with the exhaust to get it not to rub on the brace. Unfortunately this caused it to rub on the driveshaft! After installing the spacer, the downpipe no longer rubs on the driveshaft, however, there is still a vibration coming from what feels like more so the exhaust.

5/22/2019 - found the last part of the vibration issue. Turns out the 034 dogbone mount insert had to be re-seated. After doing this, the vibration went away. There is just the sound from the downpipe that is left!
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
dimples in Leather from belt or other?

So I am not sure how this happened, but for some reason after someone was sitting in my passenger seat it left this weird dimple. It must have been for an extended period of time that cause it, but honestly, not sure how!!



Did a little searching, and found some youtube videos on a solution for fixing the issue. One was using a hot cloth and hair dryer, I tried this and it didn't quite work because of how deep it seemed the dimple was. So I went with the more aggressive approach



Heat gun on low and keep massaging the leather balm in. My wife was jealous since apparently, I told her she wouldn't appreciate the heat gun....but I would say 90% there....
the key is to warm it up slightly so you can still touch the leather and give it a rub. I did need to also use a needle to pull the per formation up which helped a lot. I obviously don't recommend for the MK7s. Its aggressive, but keep up with the leather balm / conditioner because it does take a bit of a toll on the spot. Apply evenly through your entire interior leather too :)



Picture from this morning, now that the leather balm dried a bit


I am going to try the hot cloth and leather balm next week and see if I can smooth it more. Definitely way better then before I started!
 
Discussion starter · #44 · (Edited)
So to summarize, I am doing things a tad out of order. Instead of going clutch, I went downpipe with the 6MT which I kind of regret, but in a way it worked out since now that I can get things sorted out at lower boosts with the down pipe and check engine lights (CEL), I am ready to turn the fun dial up with a clutch install this winter.

My set-up and issue is recorded here :
O2 spacer issue - adjustments?

After contacting emichel6888, he was kind enough to put together a mini cat to work with the new O2 sensor I had sent to him. His thread is located here :
How to eliminate O2 CEL’s and achieve emission readiness...

On Saturday, I was able to spend some time under the car, and within 15 minutes the dreaded CEL had ceased to exist. After driving for about 15 minutes I had full readiness, and as far as my car is concerned, I am running a stock exhaust, not a 42DD high flow cat.




Before vs After :



So far so good. One thing I noticed though is power was down a tad prior to the mini cat / O2 sensor modification. I found my P22700 = O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean as not throwing a code yet, but it was in my system. So even though the light wasn't on, power was down due to the issue. Of course guess now my car feels peppy as it did before!! For the long term I decided to create a chart for folks to reference how good this modification is. I will update it to the best of my ability for as long as I own my set-up. I will even try my best to do a quick monthly check up if no lights are found just as proof I am monitoring and this works.

Needless to say, I should have a Vibrant Spacer + O2 sensor for sales shortly, I think I am quite content!!


DateKMsCodeNote
2019-May-1no CELInstalled DP
2019-Jun-334,032P22700
2019-Jun-834,308P22700
2019-Jun-934,448P22700
2019-Jul-1736,228P22700
2019-Jul-1736,253P22700
2019-Jul-2636,379P22700
2019-Aug-136,550P22700
2019-Aug-136,604P22700
2019-Aug-536,763P22700
2019-Aug-536,936P22700
2019-Aug-1137,252P22700
2019-Aug-1437,360P22700
2019-Aug-2037,498P22700
2019-Sept-1438,082P22700 - no CELInstalled mini-cat / O2 Spacer
2019-Nov-1439,164
2019-Dec-1840,560Going to shift to every three months, all is running fine

One observation with this code, is that as it got hot and humid outside, the CEL would come on more frequently. Unfortunately, I didn't have much experience of failures during the winter to see if there is negative effects to report on. I don't plan to confirm, but will run the minicat + O2 sensor mod from September 14th 2019 forward

***Update

So after running into a bunch of O2 errors P22700 = O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean along with losing readiness. I decided that maybe it would be good to revive this old post and track for an entire year. Going to add calendar entries into my phone as reminders again. One big thing I noticed is I was filling up with 94 octane, but after going back to 91 octane the errors went away.

DateKMsCodeNote
2020-09-2152,133Obtained full readiness after numerous P22700
2020-10-1953,068P2270since 52,450 but full readiness but no CEL
2020-11-2354,032P2270full readiness, no leak, look at tuning
2020-12-1854,569P2270full readiness
2020-12-2554,712P2270full readiness, but my wife was learning standard, starting stopping constant
2021-02-2256,159P2270full readiness

I think this is quite flakey to be honest. There might be more success with this being a JB1 vs a JB4, which is able to control the P2270 code and that would drastically help with the readiness as the checks wouldn't be as frequent. Regardless, I think a Cobb unit is coming next sale, or if there is something floating around the classifieds - EQT Tune and I will pick this chart up again!
 
Interesting, I have the same spacer and 6MT and also no issues* with a CTS catted DP.
*I did have the CEL come up 2, maybe 3 times in 1.5years but was always on decel under light load and with no loss of power.

I am also doing a clutch before the end of this year. I had the JB4 on map3 for 20k and started slipping at 22k. It is now slipping on stock power as well so it is time. Which one are you going with?
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
Interesting, I have the same spacer and 6MT and also no issues* with a CTS catted DP.
*I did have the CEL come up 2, maybe 3 times in 1.5years but was always on decel under light load and with no loss of power.

I am also doing a clutch before the end of this year. I had the JB4 on map3 for 20k and started slipping at 22k. It is now slipping on stock power as well so it is time. Which one are you going with?
I guess it's not a huge problem now in Ontario, now that they did away with 'DriveClean', but I figured might as well keep it 'looking clean'. Plus I get super annoyed with CEL's.

For clutch, I am still stuck on : https://www.emdauto.com/collections...-volkswagen-mk7-gti-golf-r-stage-1-clutch-kit
going back and forth on this, but I feel like I won't be going past Stage II+ anyway so the DKM Twin Disk will be over kill. The SouthBend Daily 3 or Endurance 2 are the other options but I feel like the chatter and resale because of it might be something I want to avoid
 
I guess it's not a huge problem now in Ontario, now that they did away with 'DriveClean', but I figured might as well keep it 'looking clean'. Plus I get super annoyed with CEL's.

For clutch, I am still stuck on : https://www.emdauto.com/collections...-volkswagen-mk7-gti-golf-r-stage-1-clutch-kit
going back and forth on this, but I feel like I won't be going past Stage II+ anyway so the DKM Twin Disk will be over kill. The SouthBend Daily 3 or Endurance 2 are the other options but I feel like the chatter and resale because of it might be something I want to avoid
I see, that Sachs has been recommended a number of times for stock power/flywheel. I am most likely going hybrid turbo with a few other upgrades at some point so i am jumping right to Stg3 endurance. I am worried about chatter a little but hope that pairing it with a fluidampr would mitigate that. Plus I have a friend who just installed the same clutch and he said the chatter is not nearly as noticeable as people indicate on the forums.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
I see, that Sachs has been recommended a number of times for stock power/flywheel. I am most likely going hybrid turbo with a few other upgrades at some point so i am jumping right to Stg3 endurance. I am worried about chatter a little but hope that pairing it with a fluidampr would mitigate that. Plus I have a friend who just installed the same clutch and he said the chatter is not nearly as noticeable as people indicate on the forums.
That makes sense, I don't really want to go past Stage II+, because of the extra work building out the engine. By then an used RS3 will be much more appealing
 
Discussion starter · #49 · (Edited)
I have ordered my clutch and a Wavetrac LSD for my Golf R. Waiting on the LSD to arrive and the clutch is waiting at the border, however I feel like I will likely have to get it brokered for pickup next time I visit my in-laws. Super excited for this.

That said, RE: P2270, I had a shop double check my work, but we aren't finding any leaks. That said, they think the tune I am using is creating too lean of a signal and that strong consideration towards a tune should be considered. Things run fine when it's cold, but when we hit 20+C, highway merges / passing are pulling the intermittent lean codes from the logging history. That said, maybe Map 2 with the new clutch will be the best route to go until I decide on what my next step will look like and an intercooler is installed.

This has resulted in me doing some digging into what vendor I would be using to potentially replace my JB1, since I feel like having the extended monitoring of the JB4 is not in place. I started a listing and filling in a chart. My favorite local shop is Unitronic, so some bias there, however I want a Haldex tune (enter United Motorsports). The real hero seems to be COBB / EQT combo, at a price. Perk is the new USP WOT Box, can provide some of the functionality that is missing. IE can be flashed locally, but numbers seem quite high compared to other vendors, questioning long term.

VendorHP / TQ (S1)HP / TQ (S2)LCNoLiftMod'd TCBurbleDevicePrice
APR67 / 87NNNNYN499
COBB70 / 60117 / 124 ?YYYYY675
EQT74 / 10495 / 119YYYYReq's COBB175
Eurodyne60 / 8896 / 123NNNY250499
IE85 / 82 ?118 / 135 ?NNNY150550 / 650
United??109 / 94200YNY450700
Unitronic63 / 58105 / 88 (93)NNNY150500 / 575
USP WOT BoxNNYYNNY199

Removed : GIAC / HPA / Revo / Vivid Racing - lacking options and rather expensive, JB1 / JB4 / Neuspeed removed as already have a JB1
 
Discussion starter · #50 · (Edited)
Thought I would take a moment, before the winter fun begins with this car. A few days behind (December 6th), but have owned the car for three years and it has truly grown on me. November 6th was the last payment on my lease, and I decided to officially buy it out and own the car after saving money away for either another down payment or buying the car out.

So why did I decide to keep it?
Keep in mind, I live in Canada, and we have snow 4 months out of the year, mind you the levels have been much lower over the years. The cars I have been floating to replace the R, were the RS3 (though the 2022 has be incredibly interested), Audi S5 / RS5 (Sportback or Coupe), TT RS, M2 Comp, Porsche Cayman GTS, Tesla Model 3 LR+ or Performance. There is also the 2022 Genesis G70 3.3T AWD - which isn't available yet.

To be honest, based off everything going on in the world (primarily economic), working from home (expanded to include fun cars) - it seemed to just make sense to hold off, and maybe get something exciting. Super boring reason, being patient?

From everything I have done to the car, it handles absolutely fantastic on back country roads, round abouts that are fun to push through and in the city it just seems to zip around that you almost forget there is a speed limit. Maybe you have seen those go-kart videos in Japan, where city streets have lanes closed so these go-karts can zip through traffic? That's the daily drive it seems with the Golf R. Thankfully the 6MT keeps me from letting the car go too quick - based off what gear and engine noise I am hearing. Would I want a Cayman GTS or TT RS? Yes, but I feel like if I am not going to the track often, the R does that fun factor well in the daily drive. The AWD practicality honestly would maybe give the TT RS a slight advantage, by not being a weekend toy.

On the highway, I was spoiled with the B8 S4 (that the R replaced), it wasn't as comfortable as a S6 - but it did everything so well. Thats where the R seems to always mark lower, the comfort on longer trips. The seats just don't have the right support. I did test drive the B9 S5 coupe, but I felt like it just missed that fun factor of the Golf R, the drive!! I feel like that's where an eventual replacement would be in the RS5 / G70 3.3T or a M3 (F80 maybe, G80 if I can get a new bumper from BMW). The easier solution though, is replace the seats in the R!!! The rest of the electronics are perfectly fine

I think the fastest feeling car I owned was my B5 S4, which seemed to have this mad rush of low end torque. The B8 S4 I had, was more power like a freight train, it just got faster and faster without noticing it really. Without a doubt it had the 1/4 mile slips to say it was the fastest. The R isn't quite there, yet. Will it be as quick as the M2 Comp - I feel like I might get a lot closer to it's performance then I expect to when officially running high torque Stage II. The RS3 in a straight line is a monster, I might get to it's level but I feel like the handling will still be better in the R at the end of the day. Maybe the 2022 RS3 will offer some drivetrain enhancements to make it more appealing though, and I feel like it would be a strong R replacement. The current 8V just isn't that enticing to jump by way of value. End of the day, how fast do you want to go on the streets, I don't need a 9 second 1/4 mile realistically. The Golf R does just fine there...especially a Stage II or hybrid turbo upgrade. Maybe my launches won't be as epic, but 2-6 will be just fine.

So what is next steps,
next 3 months
Sachs DMF
Ringer Racer (575 ft-lbs) clutch kit
Wavetrac LSD - waiting for it to arrive
shim upgrade - work will be done by our local shop Foreign Auto
move to Map 2 /w JB1, see what I can do with Map 6?

next 6 months
intercooler
potentially look at an ECU tune from research above - still have powertrain until 2022, so weighing it out
Haldex tune

next year
seats - Sportster CS or maybe the super sports from the S3 / RS3, I wasn't super impressed with them compared to the S4 though. Maybe MK8 seats? or preferably MK6: VW Golf Schalensitze
brake upgrade - not so much big brake, with the Wavetrac I will be reducing the wear, but maybe look at small improvements
also roll with a few little things like inlet pipes, and other little tweaks including spark plugs, etc. Little things to tinker with in the warmer months

next three years - warranty is over
hybrid turbo

So what's next from there. I hope everything I want out of a new car, I can do it in the my Golf R. EXCELLENT platform, and the tech I have is all I need. I feel guilty because my wife can't drive manual, and I keep coming back to getting an automatic. Her Subaru is still running fine, but maybe a highway cruiser since she commutes would be a thought. That's where the Tesla's come in as more of a replacement there then for me. Then maybe have a weekend car that can do the fun things better than the Golf R? That we can leave for 2022 or beyond!
 
Thought I would take a moment, before the winter fun begins with this car. A few days behind (December 6th), but have owned the car for three years and it has truly grown on me. November 6th was the last payment on my lease, and I decided to officially buy it out and own the car after saving money away for either another down payment or buying the car out.

So why did I decide to keep it?
Keep in mind, I live in Canada, and we have snow 4 months out of the year, mind you the levels have been much lower over the years. The cars I have been floating to replace the R, were the RS3 (though the 2022 has be incredibly interested), Audi S5 / RS5 (Sportback or Coupe), TT RS, M2 Comp, Porsche Cayman GTS, Tesla Model 3 LR+ or Performance. There is also the 2022 Genesis G70 3.3T AWD - which isn't available yet.

To be honest, based off everything going on in the world (primarily economic), working from home (expanded to include fun cars) - it seemed to just make sense to hold off, and maybe get something exciting. Super boring reason, being patient?

From everything I have done to the car, it handles absolutely fantastic on back country roads, round abouts that are fun to push through and in the city it just seems to zip around that you almost forget there is a speed limit. Maybe you have seen those go-kart videos in Japan, where city streets have lanes closed so these go-karts can zip through traffic? That's the daily drive it seems with the Golf R. Thankfully the 6MT keeps me from letting the car go too quick - based off what gear and engine noise I am hearing. Would I want a Cayman GTS or TT RS? Yes, but I feel like if I am not going to the track often, the R does that fun factor well in the daily drive. The AWD practicality honestly would maybe give the TT RS a slight advantage, by not being a weekend toy.

On the highway, I was spoiled with the B8 S4 (that the R replaced), it wasn't as comfortable as a S6 - but it did everything so well. Thats where the R seems to always mark lower, the comfort on longer trips. The seats just don't have the right support. I did test drive the B9 S5 coupe, but I felt like it just missed that fun factor of the Golf R, the drive!! I feel like that's where an eventual replacement would be in the RS5 / G70 3.3T or a M3 (F80 maybe, G80 if I can get a new bumper from BMW). The easier solution though, is replace the seats in the R!!! The rest of the electronics are perfectly fine

I think the fastest feeling car I owned was my B5 S4, which seemed to have this mad rush of low end torque. The B8 S4 I had, was more power like a freight train, it just got faster and faster without noticing it really. Without a doubt it had the 1/4 mile slips to say it was the fastest. The R isn't quite there, yet. Will it be as quick as the M2 Comp - I feel like I might get a lot closer to it's performance then I expect to when officially running high torque Stage II. The RS3 in a straight line is a monster, I might get to it's level but I feel like the handling will still be better in the R at the end of the day. Maybe the 2022 RS3 will offer some drivetrain enhancements to make it more appealing though, and I feel like it would be a strong R replacement. The current 8V just isn't that enticing to jump by way of value. End of the day, how fast do you want to go on the streets, I don't need a 9 second 1/4 mile realistically. The Golf R does just fine there...especially a Stage II or hybrid turbo upgrade. Maybe my launches won't be as epic, but 2-6 will be just fine.

So what is next steps,
next 3 months
Sachs DMF
Ringer Racer (575 ft-lbs) clutch kit
Wavetrac LSD - waiting for it to arrive
shim upgrade - work will be done by our local shop Foreign Auto
move to Map 2 /w JB1, see what I can do with Map 6?

next 6 months
intercooler
potentially look at an ECU tune from research above - still have powertrain until 2022, so weighing it out
Haldex tune

next year
seats - Sportster CS or maybe the super sports from the S3 / RS3, I wasn't super impressed with them compared to the S4 though. Maybe MK8 seats?
brake upgrade - not so much big brake, with the Wavetrac I will be reducing the wear, but maybe look at small improvements
also roll with a few little things like inlet pipes, and other little tweaks including spark plugs, etc. Little things to tinker with in the warmer months

next three years - warranty is over
hybrid turbo

So what's next from there. I hope everything I want out of a new car, I can do it in the my Golf R. EXCELLENT platform, and the tech I have is all I need. I feel guilty because my wife can't drive manual, and I keep coming back to getting an automatic. Her Subaru is still running fine, but maybe a highway cruiser since she commutes would be a thought. That's where the Tesla's come in as more of a replacement there then for me. Then maybe have a weekend car that can do the fun things better than the Golf R? That we can leave for 2022 or beyond!
Hey Rudy - I came to similar conclusions having paid mine off this year. Also have similar upgrade/tinkering plans for the next few years too ..... Wavetrac, Recaro CS (Can also go in next car and nice weight reduction), TTS brakes.
I'm also considering the TTS Alu subframe and GTI CSS knuckles to add some further fun to the handling and if the rumoured APR Stage 2 replacement (hybrid turbo) looks good I might switch out my Uni tune for APR but the car feels fast enough as it is really.
What is the 'shim' upgrade you mention?
 
Discussion starter · #52 · (Edited)
Hey Rudy - I came to similar conclusions having paid mine off this year. Also have similar upgrade/tinkering plans for the next few years too ..... Wavetrac, Recaro CS (Can also go in next car and nice weight reduction), TTS brakes.
I'm also considering the TTS Alu subframe and GTI CSS knuckles to add some further fun to the handling and if the rumoured APR Stage 2 replacement (hybrid turbo) looks good I might switch out my Uni tune for APR but the car feels fast enough as it is really.
What is the 'shim' upgrade you mention?
I need to research more the aluminum subframe - sounds like same as the GTI Clubsport, but all the Audi's got it including the S3? I didn't read much up on the TTS. I think it was that made a massive difference - and I thought I was reading why don't we have this as well. Likely same as the TTS? Likely the knuckles / control arm bushings are all something I would tackle soon, but that is something I want to read up on more now.

GTI CSS knuckles part numbers it looks like:

This is what it fixes, mostly the 6MT owners, and debatable those that have SMF were suffering from the issue. However, I am staying DMF, everything is going to be torn apart so might as well get it done. For some reason I thought they said shim, could be a washer, might be mixed up on what they are doing - but getting it done as an insurance.

 
It's a bearing assembly, but everyone in the auto world calls it a washer apparently. On an aircraft engine we call it a thrust bearing.
 
Discussion starter · #54 · (Edited)
Got the final pieces today before booking my drivetrain 'upgrades'. Super excited and needed to post. Will book an appointment next week when the shop is open again. Didn't take the clutch out of it's packaging to avoid anyone installing anything backwards and blaming me. I had that happen once, apparently they claim they didn't know which side was flywheel side. Feels good to move over that hump, it likely is the single most expensive combo of parts a 6MT owner will likely do (besides pulling the engine). I think it will be well worth it, going clockwise :

Ringer Racer Stage III Organic / Cerametalic (rated for 575 ft/lbs)
OEM Sachs DMF
Wavetrac LSD

Decided to stick with the DMF as I want to keep it as 'daily driver' as possible, and avoid any chatter. I expect chatter for the first few hundred miles with the new clutch, as there is a coating that needs to burn off.



I wasn't going to go with the LSD, and was thinking I might move on from the Golf R. After talking it over with my wife, I decided to stick it out and make this into a car I enjoy long term. Every car I have owned I have modified (and kept for 3-4 yrs), which is the first problem. The second issue is where do you go from here? RS3 for say? Although I don't doubt for a second the RS3 is a fast car, it is something I would see myself throwing another $5k at, and not truly enjoy the experience. I feel like a Stage II+ and possibly a hybrid turbo Golf R realistically all I would need for some spirited driving, odd track day and the 6MT keeps me engaged with the whole experience. The MK8 Golf R is interesting, but the small improvements don't justify the cost of me moving from the MK7.5 - especially since seats and a rear LSD is a thing for the MK7, and only excitement I get from the new R.

I had a dragy, and returned it to Amazon after a few days. The 6MT just wasn't meant for launching so why bother? is it any slower then a DSG from a roll? No, you won't notice a realistic difference.

Also going to go forward with the thurst bearing washer fix from Foreign. Quote was about $1100 on top of a clutch replacement - since they are able to access when the transmission is out. For more information, start here: EA888 Gen 3 Crank Walk Issues for 6MT Ownerz
Great post to show what's going to be done: What causes thrust bearing failure?
 
Discussion starter · #55 · (Edited)
Just a small update, and not hard to giggle when pushing the car now in corners.
I had been running a low torque map to conserve my stock clutch the past while. So I never have had the opportunity to truly run a Stage II set-up - all part of the story.

After receiving the car, I found more so on cold start-up the clutch felt heavy, and knowing that it was brand new going in, I must say after a week it feels like stock. Again cold start-up, I would say it is very minimal difference between stock and giving it a few more weeks will loosen up I am sure. With the car warmed up, it feels like stock and arguably even lighter than stock. I left the bump stop as is but I am pretty sure it lets out a tad earlier as when I first got it installed I could feel it letting go - now it feels extremely smooth. So exactly where I think it should be. Other key notes include no chatter. For the clutch itself, I must say I will need a stock Golf R to really see the difference because I cannot tell if there is one. I didn't bother asking for my old flywheel and clutch back - not expecting weight lose or gain, and it was slipping, nothing interesting to see here.

What I cannot comment on is, how long will this clutch last? I noted the install date and mileage in my first page, so I am hoping to never look at it again. Along with the thrust bearing and Wavetrac LSD, the car drivetrain needs a Haldex tune and maybe rear Wavetrac LSD. Otherwise, I feel like beefing up the drivetrain is done at this point. Suspension has a little tweak here and there, so now it's all about going fast and and making it as comfortable doing it.

As for the Wavetrac, I have a long road with a boulevard and a number of round abouts throughout it. It is a great little strip to test a cars handling and putting it through its paces. The speed is a bit up through here too which makes it even more nicer. It's winter, tracks are closed, back country roads can potentially have black ice - it's not the time of year to be adventuring.

Honestly, it is just hilarious now how the car handles. I always felt a sense of unease when pushing hard through a round about with the XDS+. You can feel the brakes being applied, and at times it doesn't seem 100% like that was what was supposed to happen, which at times make me hesitant of pushing harder. I felt like the RSB made the car feel a bit like a go kart I might add as well. That in mind, the LSD with RSB and MSS Springs, have made the car feel like it is slammed to the ground and there is no such thing as traction issues. THIS IS ON WINTER TIRES! I think it is is better on my winter tires now then on my summer tires!!! I absolutely can't wait till spring / summer time.

Knowing I was running on a low torque map, I decided to crank up the boost yesterday afternoon on the JB1. As I open the hood, and look for the JB1, it was gone! Turns out the mechanic working on my car thought the JB1 had the wires broken, and removed it so I was running stock. The wires missing, were the connections to make it a JB4 instead of a JB1. They still had it and I installed it last night. The giggling only continues. Those roundabouts feel like I can push so much harder with complete control. With one exception. So as one knows, most round abouts replace an intersection. So think 1 entrance and 3 (technically 4 if you do the full circle) exits. When I did a 3rd exit (or left turn), I found the front end sticks glued to the road, however the rear end gets a tad squirrelly when the Haldex wants to help. Easily controlled, but again, I think VWs electronics are nice but they aren't great. This is where I want to see what the Haldex tune can do for me to make things a bit more controlled by being more aggressive, and if still not maybe the rear Wavetrac LSD. Again, I am on winter tires, so maybe they are just cracking loose because this isn't the kind of performance they are designed for.

Which brings me to something I don't want to debate, but just wanting to state my opinion.

I was on the fence for the MK7/7.5 and MK8. I think it makes complete sense to have a front LSD, instead of the XDS+, it just a night and day difference. Being a front wheel biased AWD, I think this is where the most gain is, and NOT in the rear like the MK8. So what about the open diff vs 'sports drift' in the MK8 in the rear? This one is so tough, I feel like if the Haldex tune is more aggressive to use the rear (which it likely is in the MK8), then the rear 'sports diff' becomes more important. When I had my rear wheel biased AWD S4 (Torsen), it made a difference when I test drove cars and compared, but again most power was going to the rear in that situation.

So in theory, yes the MK8 R I think is a nice upgrade in this aspect over the MK7/7.5 R. However, with my experience with XDS+, I think the rear Wavetrac LSD would be an upgrade on top of that option because you are relying on VW programming and electronics, it has its limits. With this being a FWD biased AWD, maybe the difference is likely very small. So would I trade in my MK7/7.5 for the 'sports diff'. I don't think so anymore, the real winner is in the front LSD, and both cars require this to be done (as it stands today). Maybe in 3-4 years when the MK8 catches up to the MK7/7.5 due to depreciation will it become more of a hot buy, but it doesn't make sense to move from a MK7/7.5 to a MK8 - especially since there is a rear Wavetrac LSD option for us. As for being a new 'R' owner, and buying used vs getting a new MK8 Golf R? For the sports diff alone, I am going to say no. For the overall package the MK8 Golf R provides, including a new turbo, great interior including seats, and the easy mods we do to our MK7/7.5s being done for you already - you are likely going to have a helluva tough decision....glad I am not making it for you :)

...for me, I think the upcoming RS3 is interesting if I want more power, DCT and rear 'sports diff' / LSD, but I can only see the R's replacement being a Cayman S or a GTS 4.0 at this point. Must say the R is an absolute riot to drive on winters, can't wait for summer tire fun. Feel free to let me know if there is another car available in North America that can replace the MK7 R at its price point!! New or used!
 
Good write up.

Being that my 2018 Golf R is my daily with almost 40k miles on it at this point, I’m hesitant to do much more than full stage 2. I view the Golf R as a chassis with diminishing returns beyond a certain point. Hybrid turbo brings the power up, but the engine isn’t stout enough in stock form to go above 420wtq from what EQT and other tuners suggest. So getting to the 400/400 point was the goal for me, and I think I’m about as close as possible.

Drivetrain mods undoubtedly help the drive, but at what cost to reliability in a daily driver, and to the wallet? At this point, I’m more or less done modifying my Golf R. Stock suspension is great for me, it looks awful with the wheel gap, but is fully functional.

I have an E39 M5 that’s running coil overs, full E85, headers back exhaust, and a tune - it’s effectively a full interior track car with two racing seats with belts in the garage for track days. It dusts the Golf R from 20mph and up by bus lengths. And what’s interesting to me, it is a WAY more raw feeling car. 6 speed, one button turns all nannies off, and it will break the tires loose in 3rd gear and handles just about as well as the Golf R - albeit more predictably being RWD. Which brings me to my final point.

It’s almost impossible for me to think about what car id replace the Golf R with. A truck has significantly more utility about 2 days a month for me. A 996 Turbo is my dream car but not a good daily maintenance, age, or utility wise. I won’t get rid of the E39 - I’ve owned it for 12 years and am the 2nd owner with 84k miles on it. So where do I go? RS3 is at best a lateral move for me, and I don’t find the 4 Ring premium to be worth it. If I’m paying a premium over VW, it’s going to be to BMW or Porsche - both better driving cars than Audis in my experience. I guess my answer hinges entirely around garage space as I don’t park my cars outside - when I get a 4 car garage or bigger, I’ll likely move on from the Golf R, get a truck, and a BMW M2 Comp/996 Turbo and then have the stable more or less set for 10+ years.

Now to find a plot of land with a barn somewhere where I can set up a cot and forget the whole house idea.
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
Ya, this is the biggest issue, where do you go now?

Honestly, with the suspension how I have it now /w the Wavetrac, it's ridiculous how well this thing handles. I am pretty sure on summers, Haldex tune and EQT tune (which I am still swayed towards when closer to warranty expiring) - this car is done. The hybrid turbo as you mentioned is pushing it and I don't want to get into built engines. If it wasn't for the 6MT keeping me honest on the speedo, I don't really need too much more power - but I always have a craving more.

I was thinking of doing the 911 thing too, but as you mentioned it's not a daily driver. Even the 911 isn't meant to be daily driven and when you get your maintenance bill, it will suck. I'm not sure on the climate you are in, but the Turbos have had problems with sludge build here in Canada = massive work. The M2 Comp, I agree would be a good option, but the Cayman S / GTS would be a tad bit more interesting as a compromise between the 911 and M2 Comp. I don't think I would go as far as GT4, as I worry about daily driver / suspension, but the Cayman might be a good choice.

So might as well be a good husband, and let the wife choose her next car (sounds like EV in the next 2-3 yrs, preferably with solid state batteries). Or something for long trips, commutes anyway. If anything, MAYBE, will be due for a car myself but till then I haven't a clue what to get. Going to enjoy every mile of road with the R.
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
On the weekend, I had found a posting for the Jetta GLI part of the community, on how to adjust the DCC shocks when lowering their car.

I tried performing it today. The only item I was a bit worried about is whether the two different kind of jack stands might make the exercise not work as expected since the front might be lower / higher than the rear. It appears this doesn't matter, as long as all four wheels are not touching the ground.

Before:


After:


You will notice a difference in the deflection for three of the four tires. They aren't large changes, but again, I didn't find the car to be terrible. Did the ride get better? I think so, I wish I did a before and after. In Normal mode now, it did feel smooth, Race things were a little more harsh but I feel like it is close to stock now.

One item I found is that on the Android version of OBDEleven, when you do the first steps, it doesn't appear to accept the security code. However, if you went through the steps in the post, and hit 'cancel' then continue through to the Basic Settings, it will run as it should.

There was an additional screen that I noticed you can play with the the percentages at each corner after entering in the codes. So this won't make a specific profile more soft or hard, it will make 'all the profiles' more soft or hard, depending on the setting you chose. If found though that was fine, I always drive around in Race, and if I have people who might drive a car that 'floats' and complains about harsh suspensions - they get Comfort mode. In the past I found I would drive the car around in Normal, but now Race seems very drivable and easier to access. No crashing, but I feel like the last place I took the car to, fixed this (maybe with the reset I just did).

Would be curious to hear in the future when suggesting it to other new spring installed owners.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
Looking good man.

How did this Maxpider mats hold up?
Thanks, love the car, can't wait to get it just right!

The Maxpider's are fine, no real complaints. Slight wear, for where my heel is on the gas pedal but it hasn't worn through. I believe this is winter #3 now, so give it another few years.

I have actually been running them year round though, since I like them more then the carpet, and they clean much more easier.
 
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