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Discussion Starter #1
I'm building a FSP Scirocco. I really don't have much experience going back to the older cars, I had gotten pretty educated with my SM Passat and everything related to that.
I'm about to order the Diamond Racing Contender wheels in a 13 x 9, with 5" backspacing. Wheel bolts are a couple bucks each, so I figured I might as well bite the bullet and do the conversion now. I found this site: http://www.bahnbrenner.com/acatalog/Scirocco_Wheel_Studs.html with the studs and bolts. Does anyone know which length stud I'd need to run that given backspacing? Those are the specs on the wheel that everyone tells me I need.
 

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Re: Scirocco Wheel stud conversion question (shaggymatt)

wow, good to see you're building an FSP car! I don't have the answer, but I'm positive somebody on the vwautox Yahoo group does. Try it over there..
 

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Re: Scirocco Wheel stud conversion question (Mhyrr)

The backspacing isn't going to effect the stud length, unless you run spacers. I would talk to the guys at http://www.bildon.com as they sell a lot of VW race stuff, including wheel studs (and spacers)
 

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Re: Scirocco Wheel stud conversion question (Mk1Racer)

Thanks for the help guys. I've been kind of weeding my way through the mailing lists and did find some information pointing to Bildon. I'm going to give them a call tonight/tomorrow, not sure if they are west coast or east coast.
 

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Re: Scirocco Wheel stud conversion question (shaggymatt)

yeah, bill beat me to it. bildon's got all the stuff you need, and can answer your questions. smart guys that sell good stuff.
 

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Re: Scirocco Wheel stud conversion question (shaggymatt)

Matt, nothing to add re: your question, just chiming in to wish you the best as you build the Scirocco. We'll have to make it up there again to see it run!
 

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Re: Scirocco Wheel stud conversion question (Mk1Racer)

Bill is right. Talk with Bildon and get the proper studs with the right strength. Studs make the mounting of a wheel much easier. Cheers, WWR.
 

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Re: Scirocco Wheel stud conversion question (Gigger)

That's an OK thread you linked to, but there's a little bit of misinfo in there. For the conical seat nuts (not VW std ball seats) I know of 2 different seat angles - 45deg which is common, and also 60deg, which is what my 13x9 Reals have (bought 'em to play around in FSP a little with an STS prepped car).
 

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Re: Scirocco Wheel stud conversion question (flogger)

Thanks guys. I got the tires ordered, now I'm just waiting for Diamond to call me back to order the wheels.
Looks like the 80mm is what I need. Bildon might be too slow for this need, any other suggestions? Next race that I can do is on May 11th, and I'd like to run the R's by then!
 

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Stop****
Verify that Diamond makes the 4x100, Not the 4x4in. Not the same!!!
Looks like they do now...
Sorry.
Do not use the 4x4in on the VW.
Use only the 4x100mm wheels.

Bassett makes the right wheels, a little more, but sweet .
MM
 

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Wheel Studs

I've been oval tracking for over 10 years, we get our studs with the nuts from Federated M12 X 1.5 Length from back to tip is 2 1/4" You will have to locate someone with a reamer or buy one because the studs pull through from the backside of the hub. "You should have this done before you press your hub into your nice new bearing in the knuckle" Tighten your axle nut make sure you tighten your axle nut real tight....... get a torque wrench...... The studs are knurled so they are ususally pressed in. The back flat is ground flat in a spot so it will fit in the brake drum the rotor ususally has enough clearence, sometimes they don't fit with a full 360 flat. I also use rims from Diamond in FWD with a 4 X 100 bolt patttern I've broken rotors, hubs, even rims, but the brake caliper so far has kept the wheel on the car, Honda Acura not so lucky at my track Bildon is in Western NY near border of Pa and I think they have part of operation in Pa. If they seem slow,it's because they race too.
 

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I've been oval tracking for over 10 years, we get our studs with the nuts from Federated M12 X 1.5 Length from back to tip is 2 1/4" You will have to locate someone with a reamer or buy one because the studs pull through from the backside of the hub. "You should have this done before you press your hub into your nice new bearing in the knuckle" Tighten your axle nut make sure you tighten your axle nut real tight....... get a torque wrench...... The studs are knurled so they are ususally pressed in. The back flat is ground flat in a spot so it will fit in the brake drum the rotor ususally has enough clearence, sometimes they don't fit with a full 360 flat. I also use rims from Diamond in FWD with a 4 X 100 bolt patttern I've broken rotors, hubs, even rims, but the brake caliper so far has kept the wheel on the car, Honda Acura not so lucky at my track Bildon is in Western NY near border of Pa and I think they have part of operation in Pa. If they seem slow,it's because they race too.
This is the right way to do it. Don't use thread in studs, use the ones that you press in from the back. I have used GM motorsports ones - the long ones. I didn't use a reamer though, just a drill bit - I think it was 31/64ths..., also picked up a counterbore from McMaster Carr so I could use the drill press to make a flat surface on the back side for the stud head to land on.

As far as the axle nut - I don't use a torque wrench for that, I use the handle from the jack, a breaker bar and all of my weight (with a little bit of a bounce).
 

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With the little hubs, (35.5 MK1), you can run bolts in from the inside the hub when you change bearings. redl lock them.
I dont run any little hubs anymore, just maybe the Rocco ITB car.
All of the rest have been studded with cut off bolts, red locktite, and staked from inside the hub. Never had any failures. The MINistock has bent the whole wheel into the axle and never broke any of the bolt /studs.
The key is to use fully covered nuts(Chrome domes), To keep dirt out of the threads.
Miata chrome fitment seems to work fine.
GM metric studs from the racer places will also work, but cost more and thins the hub material. My big deal is that I swap bearings and hubs every 50 hrs and dont like to screw around machining parts that dont help my car go faster. And I'm cheap.
The really hard 12.8 +studs, will break more often than the 8.8 graded bolts.
WFM, MM
 
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