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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So recently my 6 speed tiptronic transmission took a **** on me. The valve body and temp sensor in the trans all failed at the same time. So as a fix I decided to rip out the motor and trans and replace the ****ty tiptragic transmission with a 5 speed manual one.

While I was looking for info on the swap I couldn't find all the things I needed from parts to advice all in one spot. So anybody who has questions or advice on how to do a part of the swap feel free to post it and I'll add it to the relevant post.

This DIY Also assumes you know and have a basic to advanced knowledge of what to do, or at least an idea.
The Installation DIY will be done as I do it in the coming week.

INDEX

  1. Background Info
  2. Parts
  3. Removal
  4. Installation
  5. Wiring Changes

Background Info

Here are some great threads that helped me along the way!
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...o-Tranny-swap-from-auto-to-6spd-(2-5L-jetta)/

http://volkswagenownersclub.com/vw/...ne!-Automatic-to-manual-swap-MKV-Rabbit-Jetta

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4171945-2.5l-Engine-and-6Speed-GTI-transmission

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4677624

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5454663-GTI-6spd-into-my-2.5-5spd-whats-needed

PARTS

Transmission
  • 5 Speed 04A Trans
  • Transmission Bracket(Connects the Transmission Mount and Trasmission 1K0-199-117-AP)
  • Trasmission Mount(Can reuse your tiptronic mount)
  • Starter
  • Right Axle
  • Left Axle

Clutch/Hydraulic System
  • Clutch Kit (I used a Southbend Stage 2 daily Clutch came with Clutch, Flywheel, and throwout bearing. You could use any 5 speed clutch from a mkv or mkvi)
  • Brake Pedal(Required since the automatic pedal is too wide)
  • Clutch Pedal
  • Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Clutch Slave Cylinder (1K0-721- 261N)
  • Clutch Position Sensor G476(Only needed if not included with Clutch Master Cylinder)
  • Release Lever (6Q1-721-453B)
  • Supply Hose(Runs from Brake Master Cylinder to Clutch Master Cylinder 6Q1-721-453-B)
  • Clutch Hose/Line Assembly(I used the USP Motorsports Stainless Steel Clutch Line, or use 1K1-721-465AQ)

Shifter
  • Selector Lever (Metal Shift lever on the trans 1K0 711 046 M )
  • Relay Lever(Black Platic Lever 5K0-711-203A)
  • Cable Mounting Bracket(Holds the cables on the Trans)
  • Shifter Assebly(Comes with cables)
  • Selector Cable End Relay (1J0-711-761C)
  • Shifter Cable End Selector (1J0 711 761B)
  • Shift Knob & Boot (I bought mine on Ebay new for about $70. New from dealer or ECS they are like $200)

Misc Bolts and Nuts
  • x12 Bolts to connect Axles to Trans (N 909 911 02)
  • x6 Half Moon Washers For Inner CV Joints (1K0 407 357 C)
  • x1 M8 Nut (Holds the Selector Lever to the Shifter on the trans N 907 611 02)
  • x2 M12x1.5x65 Bolt (Required for fasoning the top of the bell housing to the motor N 910 602 02)
  • x2 M8x18 Transmission Mounting Bolt (Bolts that also connect the starter N 910 379 01)
  • x1 Sholdering Hex Bolt M12x95 (N 908 868 02)
  • x3 M10x65 Bolt (N 106 237 01)


Software, I sent my ECU out to United Motorsports for the Flash to move it to manual.


Removal

This section does not have a lot of photos as I didn't plan to do a DIY until I had already removed the old pieces. How I did it was I pulled the motor and transmission out of the car with a hoist and assembling the whole thing with it all out of the car.

Steps are the same whether the motor is in the car or not still.
  1. Remove the two bolts in the starter.
  2. Remove the starter by just pulling it out.
  3. Remove the two upper bolts on the bell housing
  4. Remove the lower bolts on the bell housing
  5. Remove the Torque Converter bolts, to do this you will have to spin the crank CLOCKWISE to access each bolt through a hole in the back of the motor. To access the bolts you need to remove a plastic cap on the back of the block by the trans. Then sping the crank to access and remove each bolt.
  6. Pull trans off and it will come off with the torque converter.

Installation
Coming Soon

Wiring Changes

Two major wiring changes need to be done,
  1. Wire up the Reverse Light Switch on the shifter
  2. Wire up the Clutch Position Sensor(G476)

Wiring up the Reverse Light Switch

Here is the Wiring Diagram for the reverse light switch


The switch is F4.
This show that

Pin 1 on the switch goes to A20
-A20 is a 15a power source, splice into the Glove compartment light and A/C connection.
Pin 2 on the switch goes to Connector F Pin 6 on the J519(CECM)

Clutch Position Sensor
Here I'm going to explain how to do it the OEM method. My car in order to start the car, requires you to depress the clutch and then turn the key to start.

The only thing required to do this is to wire up the Clutch Position Sensor(G476) Properly.

Here is the Diagram of the Sensor



Find the G476 on it, That is the Sensor.

In case you do not know how to read this diagram i'll give a little explanation of where each wire goes to. At the end of each wire is a number. Take for example the one i highlighted. At one end there is a box with 200 in it, on the sensor side there is one that says T5m/4. The 200 you need to find along the bottom of the picture and find the matching wire that says 210, which is also highlighted. The T5m/4 means that the plug had 5 pins or "Terminals", which the G476 does have. Terminals 1, 2, 4, 5 are used as 3 is not. The /4 means its Terminal 4 out of the 5 pins. So Pin 4 of the Clutch position sensor goes to Pin 7, Connector E of the J519(CECM).

So here is how the pinning goes:

Pin 1: Ground, you can ground this out anywhere you like on the car.
Pin 2: The 94 Pin connector its Pin 63, there is already a wire in this pin, just cut it and splice the wire from Pin 2 of the Clutch sensor into it.
Pin 3: NOT USED
Pin 4: Connector E, Pin 7 on the J519(CECM) This Pin is also occupied(It was on my car) Just cut it and splice the wire from the Clutch sensor into it.
Pin 5: Power, you can hook this up to any switchable 12v power source. If you would like to wire it to the Fuse box correctly see below

How to get the Clutch Sensor Power THE CORRECT WAY!



If you look on the Track at the bottom and locate 39, its also gonna be the wire that has 208 in a box. That wire goes to a 5amp fuse the SB22 Now if you disassemble your fuse box and take the big 40 pin connector out this is where we will be plugging in the wire. I used a repair wire I had laying around that fit into the hole of the connector. You want T40/14. So you will plug the wire from Pin 5 of the Clutch sensor into Terminal 14 on the plug for the fuse box.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you don't mind me asking, how much did this cost you? I've been interested in swapping a manual into my car over the next winter and this thread is exactly what I needed!
I got the trans from an 2010 Golf I pulled out of a Golf at work(I work as a tech at a dealer) Bell housing had a crack so i just repaired the crack and its been working fine. All and all the most expensive pieces of the swap were the Clutch Kit and software. The Clutch was around 700 shipped from UPS Motorsports, i got the Stage 2 Southbend Daily, and the software came to 450 from United Motorsports. I did all the work myself with a bit of help from my friend with lifting and moving **** around.


Definitely since your posts and yourself helped me a lot! Still been working on this thread just havent had time to update it all.
 

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Hi I'm actually doing this but the other way around and would like some help and after trialling the internet for ages I've found this thread after going through wire diagrams and find wires I seem to have spare,

Right I've bought a car audi s3 dsg damaged with very light fire, my problems is I could only find a wire loom from a manual car, so I've fitted this loom but I have the connector left over for the reversing light, , ( took some finding what this does, and also I've got the connectoa3 g476' clutch position sensor) reversing light switch audi a3r left over for the G476 clutch position sensor, ( also took a long time trying to find this , I had an idea but people just said no it will not be for that)

Well my problem is the opposite to what it seems you have done, I have fitted this loom and can't get the car to start on its own, without a jump direct to the stater

Could you please if you can remember help me cut my loom to basically put me loom back to as yours was before your conversion ie audi factory oem for the dsg,

I need to remove or convert the clutch position sensor to how it should be and the same on the brake light switch, , please try a and guide me through this, as it's been doing me head in, thanks in advance
 

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I'm wondering what pin the G476 needs to go to on an ECU that is not 94 pin. Mine is 120(iirc) and the pin that I gathered from the wiring in the Bentley was empty. Any insight on this?

Do you have any ECU pinouts of the 94pin vs 120pin?
 

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You wouldn't by chance have this info still would you? Thanks

Wiring up the Reverse Light Switch

Here is the Wiring Diagram for the reverse light switch


The switch is F4.
This show that

Pin 1 on the switch goes to A20
-A20 is a 15a power source, splice into the Glove compartment light and A/C connection.
Pin 2 on the switch goes to Connector F Pin 6 on the J519(CECM)
 
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