Shined! Brief How-To and Review inside.
After much anticipation, I've finally installed my Shine Real Street suspension. The kit included: (2) 225lb front springs, (2) 180lb rear springs (linear spring rates), Bilstein HDs front and back, and rear bar.
Tools Used : Impact wrench w/16mm, 18mm, 21mm & 22mm sockets, 2 hydraulic jacks, 2 jack stands, pry bar (in lieu of VW sreader tool), spring compressor, channel locks, WD-40, lock-tite, #12 bit for drive shaft screws, cobalt 3/8 drill bit, electric drill, cutting fluid, and rustoleum.
How-To : I started with the back (VeeDubAllStars helped me with this BTW, thanks bro).
1. Jacked up the rear end, supported it with stands, and chocked the front tires.
2. Removed the wheels and set them aside.
3. Loosened the bottom bolt on the shock
4. Loosened the top retainer bolts on the shock.
5. Compressed spring, and removed it.
6. Removed Bolts and removed shock.
7. Shine springs are shorter, so they didn't need compressing to put in.
8. Bilstein shocks went in using the reverse procedure for shock removal. Lock-Tite was used on the bolts since new lock nuts were not provided.
Front:
1. Raise front, and support with stands, chock rear tires.
2. Removed driver side wheel (easier side).
3. Disconnected ABS sensor and brake lines from strut housing.
4. Removed retainer bolt from sway end-link.
5. Removed pinch bolt on the bottom of the strut, and lubed it with WD-40.
6. Used impact wrench to remove top bolt off the strut.
7. Used prybar to spread pinch retainer at the bottom of the strut.
8. With some twisting back and forth, remove the strut (spring still in place).
9. Compress spring until pressure is removed from the strut plate/bearing.
10. Use impact wrench to remove bolt to remove strut bearing/bushing assembly.
11. Slide spring off strut, and carefully decompress it.
12. Compress Shine spring some and slide it over the new Bilstein.
13. Replace strut bearing/bushing assembly to the top of the strut. there shouldn't be any pressure between it and the spring. If so, compress spring more.
14. Tighten strut bearing bolt and decompress spring.
15. Put new strut in place, and line it up with the opening of the strut tower.
16. Place jack under the A-arm, and raise it so the hole lines up for replacing the sway bolt.
17. Replace pinch bolt.
18. Use supplied lock-nut and fasten the top if the strut w/plate.
19. Reconnect ABS and brakes to strut housing.
Front Passenger Side:
Same as the driver side EXCEPT, you must disconnect the drive shaft, to allow it to droop enough to remove the strut. It's kind of a PITA if you're flying solo, because you have to place the car in and out of gear to rotate\lock the shaft to remove the bolts.
Shine Bar:
1. Measured the beam to find the center to ensure proper placement of the bar.
2. Put the bar in place, and secured it with clamps.
3. Brushed on cutting fluid onto the cobalt drill bit, and drilled very slowly. Keep the drill bit oiled with fluid, to reduce friction and buring up your bit.
4. Drilled the outter-most end first, and secure it with the supplied bolt and nut. Make sure the nut is facing down, to allow better clearence for AM exhausts.
5. Drilled the opposite end, and secured it with a bolt and nut.
6. Drill the other two holes and secure them with bolts and nuts.
The whole installation took about 5 1/2 to 6 hours, once I scrounged up all of the tools. I'm sure I could shave an hour or so if I ever do another one. Oh, BTW, I broke my prybar
. Thought you might like to know.
The Results:
AWESOME!! Before it felt like I was at the mercy of my suspension. Now I'm at the mercy of my tires. Good tires will complete this setup and bring out it's full potential.
ROLL is nearly eliminated, as I can cut through some twisties like they're nothing. It almost feels flat through the turn. It truly is confidence inspiring when accelerating through the same roads, I used to have to decelerate to handle.
PITCH has been greatly reduced as well. Squat is almost undetectable, as power is now less wasted in unwanted suspension travel.
YAW has been, along with everyhting else, completely balanced. There is almost no understeer whatsoever! I can dash through a turn and produce the same neutral slide whether I'm braking mid-turn, lifting off the gas. Accelerating through a turn tends to push a tiny bit, but that's to be expected with front wheel drive. Honestly, I feel my tires rolling over onto its sidewalls, more than I can feel understeer.
TURN-IN is almost catlike! It used to feel like bad lag on an internet game, where I would turn the wheel and there would be an annoying shift of weight and then finally the car would react and turn, while the back end just drags its self behind as if it's not even doing anything. Now its like she knows what I'm thinking, and reacts as soon as I do. Even the tail keeps up and plays its part.
This suspension rides smoot as butter, but has a firm, well defined feel in the seat. Road noise is no better or worse than before. I'll know more after I make my morning commute back and forth to philly for work. The ride is nothing near harsh. In fact, I was so used to my 300ZX, that this felt a little soft compared to what I was used to. Nonetheless, this is a well balanced, easy to drive, comfortable, fun suspension without the potential drawbacks of any great performing system.
I give this kit 2 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif ! Thanks Dick and Eli for your help over the phone. Thanks VeeDubAllStars for lending me your garage, and tools. Once the weather gets above freezing, I'll wash the car and post some pics.
Hope this helps some of you who may be on the fence with a suspension choice.
Edit: Typos, more content
Drove in the snow today for the first time, with no complaints. It reacted pretty much the same way as stock. Predictable, controlled, just more firm
[Modified by 3wheelinWolf, 10:40 AM 1-28-2003]
[Modified by 3wheelinWolf, 8:47 AM 1-29-2003]
After much anticipation, I've finally installed my Shine Real Street suspension. The kit included: (2) 225lb front springs, (2) 180lb rear springs (linear spring rates), Bilstein HDs front and back, and rear bar.
Tools Used : Impact wrench w/16mm, 18mm, 21mm & 22mm sockets, 2 hydraulic jacks, 2 jack stands, pry bar (in lieu of VW sreader tool), spring compressor, channel locks, WD-40, lock-tite, #12 bit for drive shaft screws, cobalt 3/8 drill bit, electric drill, cutting fluid, and rustoleum.
How-To : I started with the back (VeeDubAllStars helped me with this BTW, thanks bro).
1. Jacked up the rear end, supported it with stands, and chocked the front tires.
2. Removed the wheels and set them aside.
3. Loosened the bottom bolt on the shock
4. Loosened the top retainer bolts on the shock.
5. Compressed spring, and removed it.
6. Removed Bolts and removed shock.
7. Shine springs are shorter, so they didn't need compressing to put in.
8. Bilstein shocks went in using the reverse procedure for shock removal. Lock-Tite was used on the bolts since new lock nuts were not provided.
Front:
1. Raise front, and support with stands, chock rear tires.
2. Removed driver side wheel (easier side).
3. Disconnected ABS sensor and brake lines from strut housing.
4. Removed retainer bolt from sway end-link.
5. Removed pinch bolt on the bottom of the strut, and lubed it with WD-40.
6. Used impact wrench to remove top bolt off the strut.
7. Used prybar to spread pinch retainer at the bottom of the strut.
8. With some twisting back and forth, remove the strut (spring still in place).
9. Compress spring until pressure is removed from the strut plate/bearing.
10. Use impact wrench to remove bolt to remove strut bearing/bushing assembly.
11. Slide spring off strut, and carefully decompress it.
12. Compress Shine spring some and slide it over the new Bilstein.
13. Replace strut bearing/bushing assembly to the top of the strut. there shouldn't be any pressure between it and the spring. If so, compress spring more.
14. Tighten strut bearing bolt and decompress spring.
15. Put new strut in place, and line it up with the opening of the strut tower.
16. Place jack under the A-arm, and raise it so the hole lines up for replacing the sway bolt.
17. Replace pinch bolt.
18. Use supplied lock-nut and fasten the top if the strut w/plate.
19. Reconnect ABS and brakes to strut housing.
Front Passenger Side:
Same as the driver side EXCEPT, you must disconnect the drive shaft, to allow it to droop enough to remove the strut. It's kind of a PITA if you're flying solo, because you have to place the car in and out of gear to rotate\lock the shaft to remove the bolts.
Shine Bar:
1. Measured the beam to find the center to ensure proper placement of the bar.
2. Put the bar in place, and secured it with clamps.
3. Brushed on cutting fluid onto the cobalt drill bit, and drilled very slowly. Keep the drill bit oiled with fluid, to reduce friction and buring up your bit.
4. Drilled the outter-most end first, and secure it with the supplied bolt and nut. Make sure the nut is facing down, to allow better clearence for AM exhausts.
5. Drilled the opposite end, and secured it with a bolt and nut.
6. Drill the other two holes and secure them with bolts and nuts.
The whole installation took about 5 1/2 to 6 hours, once I scrounged up all of the tools. I'm sure I could shave an hour or so if I ever do another one. Oh, BTW, I broke my prybar
The Results:
AWESOME!! Before it felt like I was at the mercy of my suspension. Now I'm at the mercy of my tires. Good tires will complete this setup and bring out it's full potential.
ROLL is nearly eliminated, as I can cut through some twisties like they're nothing. It almost feels flat through the turn. It truly is confidence inspiring when accelerating through the same roads, I used to have to decelerate to handle.
PITCH has been greatly reduced as well. Squat is almost undetectable, as power is now less wasted in unwanted suspension travel.
YAW has been, along with everyhting else, completely balanced. There is almost no understeer whatsoever! I can dash through a turn and produce the same neutral slide whether I'm braking mid-turn, lifting off the gas. Accelerating through a turn tends to push a tiny bit, but that's to be expected with front wheel drive. Honestly, I feel my tires rolling over onto its sidewalls, more than I can feel understeer.
TURN-IN is almost catlike! It used to feel like bad lag on an internet game, where I would turn the wheel and there would be an annoying shift of weight and then finally the car would react and turn, while the back end just drags its self behind as if it's not even doing anything. Now its like she knows what I'm thinking, and reacts as soon as I do. Even the tail keeps up and plays its part.
This suspension rides smoot as butter, but has a firm, well defined feel in the seat. Road noise is no better or worse than before. I'll know more after I make my morning commute back and forth to philly for work. The ride is nothing near harsh. In fact, I was so used to my 300ZX, that this felt a little soft compared to what I was used to. Nonetheless, this is a well balanced, easy to drive, comfortable, fun suspension without the potential drawbacks of any great performing system.
I give this kit 2 http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif ! Thanks Dick and Eli for your help over the phone. Thanks VeeDubAllStars for lending me your garage, and tools. Once the weather gets above freezing, I'll wash the car and post some pics.
Hope this helps some of you who may be on the fence with a suspension choice.
Edit: Typos, more content
Drove in the snow today for the first time, with no complaints. It reacted pretty much the same way as stock. Predictable, controlled, just more firm
[Modified by 3wheelinWolf, 10:40 AM 1-28-2003]
[Modified by 3wheelinWolf, 8:47 AM 1-29-2003]