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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Soooo....this has been a project that has sat for roughly 10 years....it's been only the last couple of years that I decided to get my bum in gear and get it done...

The goal is to have a fun 'lil weekend car to go do some local autocross or some track events (since it wasn't built to any specific ruleset)










Yup...a BMW E30 dash....it's a bit of a hack job.



The gauges... if I had to do it again, I would probably use one of those lcd gauge clusters. Since I bought the gauges years ago, thought I might as well use them.




The paint is not that great; paint chipping; and probably needs to be reshot. It will suffice for now. It's on castellet rollers. I need to get some new rubber for some 15x7 momo quasars!
 

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nice project. specs on the turbo set up? expected HP? and in for the no traction til 3rd videos;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
here's the setup.

engine...

1.8L 16v with double stacked headgaskets ( gonna blow this one up as I already have a 2L 9A ready)
T3/T4 50 trim, stg3 .63 hotside

MS2 Extra ECU

Greddy type-s bov , Tial 38 external wastegate, zornig turbo manifold, short intake manifold with mustang tb

2 1/4" coldside ic tube to spearco core to 2 1/2" hotside ic tube

vbanded 3" turbo downpipe with flexjoint to 3" resonator to hooker header max flow 3" muffler

tranny...


4k tranny with .75 5th gear, quaife limited slip

suspension

bilstein/koni struts/shocks with GC coilovers, front and rear neuspeed sway bars
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
a couple more pics...


Many moons ago I wanted a baffled oil pan but didn't want to pay three or four bills for a trapped door baffled pan; that and the fact that Autotech and TT no longer sold the pans (they used to cost around 100 bucks for one).

So... I made my own. Ugly...but hopefully functional. I still can fit a VW motorsport windage tray on top.




And...many moons ago I bought a 21 circuit EZ Wiring (similiar to Painless wiring setup) wiring harness. The harness that was in there originally had been hacked and spliced. Frankly, it was a major rats nest and would have been a headache to clean up for me.

So this was the original idea to put the fusebox near the original location by the left footwell.





Years later, it didn't sit well with me, so I rethought the idea.



Decided to put the fusebox, megasquirt ecu, relays, and ground strip all together onto one panel.



attached via blind rivnuts



with the dash and electrical panel in place. I've since trimmed the center portion of the dash so that center piece goes straight down, rather than in an angle.


Oh...and the e30 dash. It was NOT the most elegant of installs. Had to trim the sides for it to fit in my a1. Then...had to figure out how to secure it on. Not the best way, but I ended up drilling small three holes on the top of the dash; one on the left; one in the middle; and one on the right. Bolted down with black allen bolts and washers. I also welded up some simple brackets on the a1. Since my welding absolutely sucks, I got some 3M seam sealer and spread some over the welds on the brackets and sprayed them all black (not in pic).

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ahh...found more pics.

Being that I didn't do the best job of placing the intercooler and radiator, I was pretty much ran out of room to place an oil cooler near the grill. So now the oil cooler ( a volvo oil cooler with adapter fittings) resides on the driver side down below the frame rail in front of the transaxle. Will need to duct air to it most likely.




Here's the rear section of the exhaust. I hacked up the job near the center tunnel to over-axle section so now the exhaust sits a lil bit lower than I'd like. The over-axle part was really tight between the body and torsion beam axle (like 1/8th" ) so I ended up notching the axle a 1/4" to give a bit more clearance.




I like discreet unassuming muffler tips... (that's a 2 1/4" "muffler tip" ;-) )




To make sure my cobbled up exhaust wouldn't rattle or scrape too much, I ended up fabricating my own exhaust hangers. I custom sized them so they would pull the exhaust closer to the underbody. I needed something durable so I got some bicycle chain and voila! Chain exhaust hangers. Dipped them in plastic dip for good measure.

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Over the weekend I bled the brakes and was wondering why my brake pedal felt a lil soft....

found out one of my lines was leaking. The lines on '78 diesels are on the inside of the cabin....sigh.




With the car off jackstands and on its own wheels, I also noticed that my wastegate dumptube is contacting the passenger driveaxle. Crap...gotta take it out and fix that too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Updates...


Started reworking the wastegate dumptube since it was not clearing the passenger driveshaft. Cut, and rewelded a kink to it.







Not much clearance down there all thanks to the beefy Autotech four point lower brace.



Started work on flaring a brake line to fix/replace the leaky one.




Unfortunately, the flare tool broke...






Lastly, started working on mounting up the electrical panel and routing the wiring.

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Gear_Dog wrote:

Looking good
How accessible will the fuse panel be there once everything is back together?



It's gonna be very accessible. The e30 dash is not going to be in the way of it at all since all I'm putting in is really the dash top. No bmw center console or glovebox to be in the way. I want it easily accessible I can sort out any fusebox electrical and/or megasquirt wiring issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
more pics to share...




...been practicing making bubble flares on scrap brake lines. Hopefully when I flare the actual line it turns out decent.



This is what it looks like from my line of sight....no gauges blocked!





While I was taking a break, I was diggin' around my parts bin and found my unused shifter extension off my '74 VW Bus. Decided to screw it on my wabbit project...voila! Shifter closer to me now!






Started attacking the wiring on the gauges and switch panel. Tedious and slow. Not the most prettiest job, but my main concern was the wires would be somewhat easy to trace; I could take the gauge/switch panels off fairly easily and quickly; and that I wouldn't have a ton of dangling wires.

Both the main gauge and switch panel have most of the wires connected to 15pin connector plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·


Still a s****etti of a mess. I want to get all the wiring sorted and tested with the battery before I start bundling everything out of sight.

For those who decide to use the EZ wiring harness, there are a couple things that will make your life so much easier:

1) If you connect the grey fan wire to the grey fan power wire in the dash section of the wiring bundle, your grey cooling fan wire in the engine harness will be the hot wire. You can then use that as your trigger wire for a fan relay.

2) The orange and white brake wires that go to the column bundle....just wrap up the connector end and place it aside. You don't need to connect it to anything.

3) For the rear brake lights, take the 3rd brake light wire and tee it off to your brake light bulbs and you'll be golden.



Started wiring up the terminal strip. Part of the strip is for connecting my LC1 WBO2 to gauge harness....the other part of the strip is set up as a ground bus.

Also got the oldschool Autolook brake and clutch pedal covers! Now I have a complete set. WoohoO!!!



Close-up. Still need to wire the ecu harness up.


This is tedious work...especially the labeling and shrinking. Hopefully it'll pay off if/when I have to start diagnosing electrical gremlins...

 
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