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Re: signs of water pump/timing belt failure?? (homegrown24)

If your water pump is shot or going you will notice that your car is going to run hotter than ever. If you continuously see that you are overheating this could be the result of a bad water pump.
I had to replace my water pump @ 25K when the original pump was removed the plastic impeller inside came out in about 4 pieces. It was completly fubar..
Of course as it is recommended when changing out your water pump it is wise to do the timing belt as well.
All in all the waterpump with a plastic impeller is a bad design on Vw's behalf..
 

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Re: signs of water pump/timing belt failure?? (homegrown24)

your car shuts off while driving,spins over quicker than normal upon trying to restart = timing belt (bent valves)
car overheats at high rpm's but cools down at idle = waterpump (impeller spinning on shaft)
car over heats at idle but cools during steady driving = waterpump (impeller broken)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well then I suppose thats not going to be my issue....
My coolant light began to flash the other night, and when I checked, there was no coolant in the return tank. There is coolant on almost everything in the area on the serpentine belt. and, maybe not do to the other issue, when I start my car it squeels (serp belt style) for just a second. but yesterday when I got home, I checked out the engine and there seemed to be a little bit of smoke coming from what I believe to be my tensioner? (i think first pully above the compressor)
 

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Re: (homegrown24)

no, the only thing sealing the water pump is a rubber O-ring. If that has degraded over time, it can leak, but at the same time, doesn't mean the pump it's self is bad. But at that point, you might as well change to a metal water pump, and do the timing belt, as you'll be taking all that stuff off just to replace a seal. Get a timing belt kit from ECS with the metal water pump. and just replace everything. But take things apart and make sure it's coming from the water pump. In all honesty you have coolant lines running above the serp. belt, so the leak could be coming from anywhere. Find the source, then fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks for the advice - I am planning on replacing my timing belt very soon (like you said - probably as soon as I fix this issue). I can't pin-point where this leak is coming from - Ill go check it out for a little while again, but I am sure its about to make a visit to my mech.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: (homegrown24)

this first picture is shows the leak (blue) and where the coolant drips from (red) - you can even see a drip forming
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this picture is a close up of the problem area. I have circled the leak in blue, and the path of the coolant is indicated with rd hash marks
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the third picture is a little further away, and again, shows the leak in blue and the drip is indicated with the red arrow.
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the fourth picture shows me getting carried away with paint again. you can see the leak (blue), the path of the leak and where it drips down onto my serp belt (red hash marks), and where the coolant is being sprayed up at the front by the serp belt (puke green circle)
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Modified by homegrown24 at 3:15 PM 5-28-2008
 

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Re: (homegrown24)

thats the anti-freeze line that runs across from the bottle/turbo to the upper radiator hose.i have never seen it happen but maybe the clamp wore a small cut in the hose?
it isnt leaking at the plastic Y and running forward is it?maybe the clamp is getting weak and cant hold enough pressure on it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
here you can see the original leak theory (blue) and where the leak might actually be coming from (red arrow). I believe that these both may have leaks.
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this picture is just from slightly further away
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this is a picture of a bolt just beneath the newly found leak - you can see a small deposit of coolant on/next to the bolt. this leak is either much smaller than the leak after the 'Y', or most is running down to the 'Y'. There is just way more coolant being lost after the 'Y' interjunction (closer to front of car).
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Re: (homegrown24)

looks like the blue circle is the winner from what i can tell by the pics.i would drain down the coolant,pull apart the hoses off that Y and inspect the hoses for any tears/cuts and give that plastic piece a good looking at as well.might be a good idea to switch to the more common worm clamps to eliminate the oem ones as the problem.
 
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