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In the TDI world, we refer to them as belly pans. Not surprised it’s beneficial, VW added them for a reason.. aerodynamics and sound control. Problem was they were plastic and usually damaged. Mechanics didn’t like working around them and some never got put back on. VWs love to leak and the foam was usually soaked with oily grime. I had two of them for my B4s and gave them away.… good riddance.

As for sound control, the engine covers were also lined with foam. As expected the foam is usually falling apart and the covers are nasty greasy. I pull them off and sell them, if possible. I’m surprised people want them. I want to be able to see my engine when I open the hood. Visual checks have a value. This is the same reason I don’t run upper timing belt covers.

The oil pan also got a cover… referred to as a pan diaper. Also lined in foam and also oil soaked and deteriorated. Guess what happens to these….? The belly pan had a foam lined access panel to get to the pan diaper.

I’m curious to know how quiet a B4 TDI could have been when new. VW went through a lot of trouble to muffle the sound coming from the bay. The hood also had a deadener panel, but I don’t believe it was TDI specific. I notice a huge difference when parked on grass or especially powdery snow.

-Todd
well from the fastinrad was saying. Sounds like it did a great job at quieting down the engine in the cabin. Them diesels are pretty loud. That alone has to be worth it.

yah the cloth sound deadening was a badddd idea. They do look like soiled diapers when soaked in oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #382 ·
It quieted down my truck so much when I fired up my truck to go for a ride I was looking and looking for my dog.
Letting destiny idle quietly and smoothly.

And she was like 50ft away.
Sleeping.

And she has spent her entire life NOT being left behind by this truck.

I am truly blown away by the feeling of having a under tray.

It improves handling at speed in a way that any suspension or power or chassis stiffening mods simply can not touch.

Thank you so much Seomobster for turning me on to the Julian aero guy.
He knows his ****.

I also think battery area mounted intercooler might be best, but I’m not fancy with extra headlights and all. I’m thinking the headlight bucket might need some mods for air flow because as it sits my radiator overlaps the driver headlight bucket and already blocks things off pretty darn good!
 

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aw that makes me happy. loving the results of the testing. cant wait to see what you do with the IC.

@mokoosh you gonna try making one? Undertray, now that you have a design to mimic.

honestly im just glad the theory worked in reality. now a hood scoop would be dope. :D
 

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I know you said you hated the alt light always coming on at start up.

Been fighting that issue for awhile myself. After I cleaned the trans ground, it appears that problem has gone away. at-least reduced it.

kind of makes sense. Because how does the alt ground itself? Yep... Engine.

You are trying to get the battery voltage to the alt and back to the battery with the exciter wire. Ty butcher for teaching me lol.

So if your engine/trans ground is dirty. Might help?

from my reading, it does sound like the early watercooled vws had funky grounding issue on the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #386 ·
Oh my alternator Light…

I had let that one go as it charges immediately at 14v+.

So the story goes… let me set the scene.
My first drive with the 02a had the truck for a couple years with a 1.6/1.9 Frankenstein idi with a k24 turbo and intercooler.

My gf was in college.
(What’s the best thing about college chicks?
-we keep getting older but they stay the same age ;p)
She was 250 miles away and needed help moving. I’m not about to let some frat douche in his Chevy be helpin MY girl move.
And with the fuel economy it’s a no brainer.
This was my last long voyage without a topper. Haha I remember it because I got a manakin from a thrift store that the old lady really wanted. And I had said manakin sat beside me wearing a bizarre outfit I’m sure I was quite the sight.

At this point I have redone the entire engine wiring harness. Rewrapped each wire.
Wire wheeled the bay and repainted.
New alt. Extra heavy duty ground cables redundantly grounding engine and trans to chassis. Mk4 battery cables that the ground has two holes one for drivetrain snd one for chassis.
So anyways..

I’m driving down the interstate
Things are fine and dandy.

And I hit a bump in the road.
And my alt light turned halfway on.
Like wtf.

Since then no amount of kicking the fuse block or hitting the instrument cluster has done any good.



I actually ran a new wire to the instrument cluster directly and still another new wire to the alternator.
And it did not fix the problem.

My truck has several known issues with its fuse block.
That have come and gone.

One day. After I sell this poor 2004 forester that fell into my lap. I will finally pull my dash. After I do my intercooler.


I will rip that fuse block out and go office space on its ass.

I’m glad you fixed your issue.
My issue…. With the demon half-light
There is no easy solution other than wire it better than factory.

I have spent hours agonizing over it.
Eventually I don’t even see it. It is a LOT brighter when it turns on. So it still does it’s job.

There’s only half of my cluster remaining.
Clock/temp/fuel.
The turn signal indicator drove me nuts.
It would work then not.
And for years it worked any time the truck was below 20f. Which was weird already being inside a freezing old car- then stuff just starts working again after YEARS?

My truck will be a happier place once I get the terrible dash out of my face.

The only thing that has saved my electrical system from complete and total hackery (notice I avoided the B word) was that the turn signals emergency flasher and wipers have continued to operate flawlessly.

But the second they act up……
 

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Oh my alternator Light…

I had let that one go as it charges immediately at 14v+.

So the story goes… let me set the scene.
My first drive with the 02a had the truck for a couple years with a 1.6/1.9 Frankenstein idi with a k24 turbo and intercooler.

My gf was in college.
(What’s the best thing about college chicks?
-we keep getting older but they stay the same age ;p)
She was 250 miles away and needed help moving. I’m not about to let some frat douche in his Chevy be helpin MY girl move.
And with the fuel economy it’s a no brainer.
This was my last long voyage without a topper. Haha I remember it because I got a manakin from a thrift store that the old lady really wanted. And I had said manakin sat beside me wearing a bizarre outfit I’m sure I was quite the sight.

At this point I have redone the entire engine wiring harness. Rewrapped each wire.
Wire wheeled the bay and repainted.
New alt. Extra heavy duty ground cables redundantly grounding engine and trans to chassis. Mk4 battery cables that the ground has two holes one for drivetrain snd one for chassis.
So anyways..

I’m driving down the interstate
Things are fine and dandy.

And I hit a bump in the road.
And my alt light turned halfway on.
Like wtf.

Since then no amount of kicking the fuse block or hitting the instrument cluster has done any good.



I actually ran a new wire to the instrument cluster directly and still another new wire to the alternator.
And it did not fix the problem.

My truck has several known issues with its fuse block.
That have come and gone.

One day. After I sell this poor 2004 forester that fell into my lap. I will finally pull my dash. After I do my intercooler.


I will rip that fuse block out and go office space on its ass.

I’m glad you fixed your issue.
My issue…. With the demon half-light
There is no easy solution other than wire it better than factory.

I have spent hours agonizing over it.
Eventually I don’t even see it. It is a LOT brighter when it turns on. So it still does it’s job.

There’s only half of my cluster remaining.
Clock/temp/fuel.
The turn signal indicator drove me nuts.
It would work then not.
And for years it worked any time the truck was below 20f. Which was weird already being inside a freezing old car- then stuff just starts working again after YEARS?

My truck will be a happier place once I get the terrible dash out of my face.

The only thing that has saved my electrical system from complete and total hackery (notice I avoided the B word) was that the turn signals emergency flasher and wipers have continued to operate flawlessly.

But the second they act up……
Oh the half dim turn signal and headlight led? Yahhhhh... Just lets you know they are working ;) never had half dim on the alt light. yet...
 

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Discussion Starter · #388 ·
I have been agonizing and looking at the clock spent for sure at least two full hours if not more today playing around with different potential setups for the intercooler.

I have it narrowed down to 3.

1. Easiest. Battery mount.
I’ve already pulled my washer bottle to fit things up. With my westy caddy headlight and big radiator there will be poor air flow without some mods to the headlight bucket.

2. The most effective.
I have access to a slightly damaged hood.
This would allow me to mount the intercool sticking perpendicular out of the hood.

I’m afraid it would look to crappy.

3. Stealthiest
Is to mount it inside the fender will require me to cut vents to get ideal air flow.

I took destiny on a run into town and she’s running amazing.
Having my gauges that show the turbo actuator. Is exactly like having computer data to show you duty cycle of the turbo control valve. It’s pretty cool.
Close the vanes all the way and full boost can be had at 15-20%
Open vanes and I can make it 80-90% duty cycle on the turbo valve.
Turbo control has turned out to be one of the most reliable trouble free easy things I’ve ever had the pleasure of tuning on.

But I really want that intercooler.
I also can not have the placement cause me to be unable to fix or reach something.

I’m thinking what would be super duper cool would be having a hood mounted ‘shaker’
Have the intercooler bolted and bracketed to the engine but poking up thru the hood.
 

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If you’re gonna do any hood shenanigans, I’ll add putting the IC in the battery tray and then using a hood scoop to direct air over it as an option.

At one point or another this is what Subaru was doing with their hood scoops, using them to push cold air over the intercooler


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #390 ·
You’re right battery mount is best. My only worry is air exit.
I may be in the mood for some air-exit vents on the hood for the radiator as well as the intercooler.

On a side note.
My glass coolant filter has not leaked a drop and has caught a ton of little bits of crud!
I looked into my original coolant bottle and the coolant is already much cleaner than it was.

And I’ve already flushed it so many damn times.
 

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If you’re gonna do any hood shenanigans, I’ll add putting the IC in the battery tray and then using a hood scoop to direct air over it as an option.

At one point or another this is what Subaru was doing with their hood scoops, using them to push cold air over the intercooler


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
you gotta make a internal air ram to direct the air from the hood scoop for it to really work well. there isnt a ton of air over the hood, so you have to increase the speed of it with a duct.
 
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