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Discussion Starter #181
My M10x1.00 tap and die came in so I was able to attack the fitting and the hose. Came out 2 for 2 - the fitting and hose both thread nicely now, so no need for further drama on the brake line side. Small victories to close out 2020...
 

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Discussion Starter #182
Happy 2021 - got a good bit to catch up on, and a budget update at the bottom.

I left off with the subframe and brake line debacle. Those both turned into not much of a debacle, since the brake lines and fittings were fixed, threaded nicely, and are all assembled on the car.




(On the left side of the car, assembled)



On the subframe, once I compressed the bushings together a little better, I fitted it up to the car and inadvertently found the better way to install it. Previously, I'd put it up to the car on the studs, and then tried to fit the rear bolts in. This time around, the studs were pushing out the aluminum inserts on the bushings, so I just let it happen, positioned the subframe to fit the rear bolts, and then jimmied the subframe into position to hammer the inserts in the front bushings. Success!

Next the driveshaft and guibo went in, no pictures but it wasn't anything spectacular.

I don’t recall if I covered it in a previous update, but I had an issue with stripped threads on the rear caliper brackets – the caliper guide pins were buggered on 3 of the 4 pins. I chased the threads on the bracket and they came out clean, so I ordered some new slider pins and installed them. I am missing the rattle clips in the pic, but they’re in my pile of hardware to install from the 1997. I actually am going to take the calipers back off to install and adjust the park brake shoes



Next, I installed the new rear shocks, since I was unable to separate the rear shocks and mounts out of the 1997 before it went to the scrapper. I ordered a set of stock Meyle mounts, reinforcements, and Bilstein sports. When I went to install the left rear shock, I couldn’t get the reinforcement plate to show enough stud, and it sat really uneven. Well, upon further inspection, it looks like someone’s been in there and repaired it once before, but not terribly well. So for now, I’ve installed the new shock without the reinforcement plate, and will have to have it professionally repaired sometime in the near future.

Good side with old reinforcement plate:


Bad side – notice how the seam sealer has been ground away on the inside and outside, at least they went over with the same color base coat on the repair, but it’s all bashed in on the top, I don’t think it was reinforced again when it was repaired.




Last, I started to get the exhaust hung on the car with new rear hangers (one of which broke in the accident) and I had ordered new mid-pipe hangers which weren’t in the latest shipment I got, so I’m getting another pair sent to me and will hang them when they get here. All I’d have left is to attach the downpipe to the headers.



 

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Discussion Starter #183
Budget Update:

I realized I haven't updated the total since I sent the 1997 shell to the scrapper back in 2019, and I'd been pecking away at projects that have already had parts bought or were carryovers. Now I'm getting to the point where I've needed to buy things to move along - some nickel and dime items, some service items. No biggie.

$1,968.00 - Previous total
$ (40) - Scrap 1997 shell
$ 159.99 - Revshift Subframe Bushings
$ 62.85 - Selector Rod Joint
$ 9.99 - Subframe Stud
$ 23.87 - Misc. Pedal Box Swap Parts
$ 25.14 - 6x Caliper Guide Pins
$ 8.19 - Front Caliper Rebuild Kit
$ 8.78 - Rear Shock Mounting Bolts
$ 263.00 - Bilstein Sport rear shocks
$ 39.32 - Rear Shock Mount Kit
$ 44.08 - Rear exhaust hangers
$ 7.00 - Mid exhaust hangers
$ 30.20 - 2 qts. Redline Gear Oil
$ 41.52 - Transmission Service Kit (Redline ATF)
$ 30.00 - Door Handle Trim Gaskets
$ 45.97 - CT Sales Tax
_
$2,727.91 - New Total

Still under 3 baves, but there are a few big expenditures that will have to happen later this year - a windshield and alignment to get it on the road, and then the shock tower replacement as noted above. But all in all, I'm still very happy with the result for the money, and even though it has taken 3 years, it's just following the old mantra, "cheap, fun, fast - pick 2."
 

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Discussion Starter #184
I'm actually a lot closer than I thought to hitting my goal of getting this on the road before my 34th birthday in March. I sent out my injectors yesterday to Marren to get them cleaned (they have been sitting in dry storage for the last 2+ years) and I hope they come back with a clean bill of health - if any of them are out of spec, I have 6 spares from the '98 that I can sub in.



I installed the front clip (minus the front bumper) and will try my hand at polishing the headlights. I had a thought to practice on my Subaru first, but it's not like plastic E36 headlights are rare and expensive (plus I have another set that also needs polishing...)

I have my next order of miscellanea - parking brake hardware, front strut bolts (lost those), oil change supplies, new air filter - arriving by the end of the week. Depending on when I get my injectors back from Marren, I will likely have it fired up by next weekend...

...that is if the anti-theft (EWS-II) doesn't get me. All 3 components - EWS module, key, and DME - need to match, and I'm using the '97 DME, and the '98 EWS module and key. My only savior would be if the PO flashed the DME to remove the EWS protocol, but there's no way for me tell other than to assemble it all together and see if it will start. If not, then a quick call to Kassel Performance and they will remove the EWS protocol and re-flash it with the VIN from the '98.

Speaking of Kassel, I have some plans in the works for their ultimate tune - send them the '98 DME for full deletes and M50 manifold tune. I have been holding onto a stock M50 manifold for ages, and the '98 came with a (useless) Dinan-branded TB, so I'm going to throw them all together, likely next winter, once I have a season of shaking down the OG setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #185
I'm using the '97 DME, and the '98 EWS module and key. My only savior would be if the PO flashed the DME to remove the EWS protocol, but there's no way for me tell other than to assemble it all together and see if it will start. If not, then a quick call to Kassel Performance and they will remove the EWS protocol and re-flash it with the VIN from the '98.
I realized I had to jump the auto selector switch in the '98 to get the right signal to the EWS module - so I did so, turned the key with the DME plugged in, and it cranked!

So it appears EWS has already been bypassed in the '97 DME. I'll need to check if the VIN issue is a problem, but I don't see why it would be, I don't think there's a requirement for the DME and vehicle VIN's to match in order to go through emissions.

I spent a bunch of time last night doing little fiddly stuff, but I did get the manifold installed a long with some more wiring. Not having labeled connectors between teardowns is frustrating me to say the least...

 

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Discussion Starter #186
Another word of warning to others who are re-shelling a car. Don't let 2+ years go by between teardown and rebuild. I'm finding that the weirdest sh*t has gone missing. So far, my EVAP solenoid is gone (and I'm not sourcing a new one from BMW, going to have to find a used one); the throttle cable plastic threaded bushing is missing, even though it's sandwiched between the rubber bushing and the rest of the cable (I have the rubber bushing), my spare OBC computer, list goes on.
 

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Discussion Starter #187
Just a quick tag up before the next update:
-EVAP solenoid found
-Was advised to replace the cable bushing with an aluminum one from Amazon. Acquired one, don't like the fit, but I'm running it for now. Garagistic sells an aluminum one as well, maybe it has a better fit. But we'll see how this generic one works out.

Anyway...big milestone has been reached. As I posted in the E36 thread:


The longer version:

I got everything buttoned up, including the injectors which I sent out to be refreshed. Last night I went out and got 5 gallons of fresh fuel, turned the key, and the car cranked and cranked.

Previously, I'd assumed based on what I read on the Internet, that if the car cranked, then EWS (BMW's anti-theft) was not disabling the car. Well it turns out I was only half informed. I found this pdf which spells out the various systems (both the '97 and '98 are EWS-II):


In short, there are 3 critical connections in the EWS-II chain. The key transponder/transmitter, the EWS module, and the DME (engine computer). I kept the key and EWS module from the '98; the DME is from the '97 because it's tuned for the engine configuration (stock, manual) that I put in the '98. Recall that originally the '98 came with a Schrick intake, 3.5" MAF, Dinan throttle body, Dinan CAI, and the requisite software needed...also it's an auto DME, so the CEL would be on for lack of TCU connection.

Anyway...so I have the key and EWS module from the '98 and the DME from the '97. I had no idea if the PO of the '97 deleted the EWS protocol on the '97, and I had no way of checking. Last night's crank-no start pointed me to maybe the '97 DME might still have EWS enabled; reading the pdf showed me that if the key and EWS module agree, it will allow the car to crank over. However, if the connection between the EWS module and the DME doesn't agree, then the DME doesn't send out injection/ignition pulses. Hmm...crank-no start indeed.

So on the assumption that I needed to send the '97 DME out, I mailed it to Kassel Performance, who offer EWS delete services. They will also re-code the VIN stored into the DME to that of the '98.

In the meantime, I remembered I still had the '98 DME, and the 3.5" MAF with adapter. The '98 ran stock injectors, so I figured if I just idled the car it would probably not be as dangerous for the motor as if I attempted to drive it with the tune - I have no idea if the Schrick intake has different characteristics than the stock S52 manifold as to require tuning.

Anyway, plugging in the 3.5" MAF and the '98 DME yielded the result above. Obviously the lifters were not pumped up (that's the clatter) and the power steering and/or water pump were making that whine at the end, since neither systems are filled. But I'm pretty sure that once the '97 DME comes back with EWS deleted, I'll be ready to roll!
 

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Discussion Starter #188
Got the DME in from Kassel Performance yesterday, and I ran the car through a heat cycle although I ran out of coolant to fully bleed the system. Other than the coolant bleed, all I need to do is wrap up a few cosmetics, mount up a bumper, and truck it over to Wile Motorsport for an alignment. I have a pending P1189 DTC code for fuel control on Bank 2 Sensor 1, not sure if that's a vacuum leak (it's not throwing a corresponding P1188 code to indicate a system-level vacuum leak) or a bad sensor. But that might be a slight hiccup towards getting this on the road since I need it to go through emissions and pass the first time (for the last time).



 

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I love this thread. And your wife is a champ. I cant imagine showing up with 200k mile sh*tbox and totalling it, making money, so the obvious choice is to...buy another 200k mile sh*tbox and bring the other 200k mile sh*tbox home and swap stuff over for a year.
 

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Discussion Starter #190 (Edited)
You're not wrong about my wife. Since we've been together she's had to put up with sh*t like this:





Those were back when we lived in a house with a single car garage. And she was awesome/understanding about it, and our deal was always as long as there was space in the driveway for her car, I could bring anything home. I might have taken that liberally at times...

We've since moved - and that's part of the reason why this project had taken a back seat at times - to a house with 2 separate driveways and garages.

It's a great setup. The front driveway is for the daily drivers, but the driveway going to the back of the house is for the workshop so it gives me plenty of space to spread out. It's also the longer of the two driveways, and because of the curvature of the road and the driveway you don't really notice stuff back there as you're driving up our road which is a cul-de-sac anyway, so normal traffic is just the neighbors.





Both projects reside in the workshop, and the Camry/Outback live in the upper garage. The pickup lives outside, and it's out of the way in either the upper driveway or lower driveway. Things are a lot better tucked away, so I'm not showing off my sh*tboxes to my wife or my neighbors. I haven't gotten the workshop kiddo-friendly yet so my son doesn't spend any time down there either. My plan is to focus inwards towards the shop in the coming years now that I've gotten both projects to a running state (and will likely have small projects here and there)

The car plan is to swap the M3 out for the Outback during the spring/summer/fall months, so the M3 will go up to the "daily" garage and the Outback might live in the workshop for the time being.
 

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Discussion Starter #191
I had to take the car seat out of the Outback today, so I threw it in the back seat of the M3 to see what kind of interior room it has.



I was shocked at how much room it has in the configuration it's in. As you can see the level just at the top of the range (the car's nose is pointed up at the moment, as I'm bleeding the cooling system) and it's not bolted down so when I finally get it on the ground and adjusted, I'm confident I can actually fit adults in the front seat. It'll be a bit tighter than say, the Camry - but I'd wager it's just as tight as the Outback, and surprisingly has more front seat room than either our old '13 Mazda3 and my crew cab Frontier.
 

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Discussion Starter #192
I'm getting into the fiddly bit of the project where I'm tidying a whole bunch of little stuff here and there.

Threw on the Dinan strut tower brace and polished it up:


Properly attached the grate on the intake. It was never well fastened in the old car, so I drilled some holes for some screws in the rad support:


Re-installed the Sparco and lower panel. Forgot the brake lights don't work, so I have to pull it back out. Also decided to install a USB charger where the cigarette lighter is, so I'm waiting to install the center cubby hole and OBC until the USB charger gets here from Amazon.


I got some more coolant in the mail today from FCP Euro. I also realized that the RF caliper was locked up after bleeding the system, so I ordered one from O'Reillys and installed it today. Makes sense because the LF caliper was replaced by the PO of the '98 and gave it to me when I bought the car, so I'll rebuild both OE calipers and swap them back in the car at some point.


Started up the car again and bled the system (I have heat, yay!). After everything buttoned up, and the hood closed for the first time in 2.5 years, I put the car on the ground. The weight of the S52 / ZF on the front end make a remarkable difference. I forgot how low this car sits:


(Recall this is how the car sat without the engine and transmission)


I was thinking about doing some pulls up and down the street to get the brakes bedded, but we're gonna be getting some snow overnight so I don't think that's in the cards. However, snow doughnuts on the other hand...
 

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Discussion Starter #193
Had to do something about the headlights.



Used a 3M Ultra Headlight Restoration kit. I have to say, it was a pretty straightforward kit, I took my time with the instructions since I'd never done one of these before. That said, I made sure to blow off the pads and headlights often, and I did intermediate steps of 1000-grit and 2000-grit between the 800-grit (last dry sanding pads) and the 3000-grit final wet sand - mostly because I had them and I didn't trust that I could just go for 3000-grit. I didn't end up getting a lot of slurry with the 3000-grit so I should probably have just trusted the professionals. The clearcoat is what sold me on the Ultra kit, it put the final glossy touch on the headlights and hopefully provides a good amount of protection.





I'm happy with how they turned out, they look a lot better than I expected. I bought 2 kits just in case I needed both to do the M3's headlights, so I'll be tackling the headlights on the Subaru next.
 

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Discussion Starter #194


Got temporary tags for it in order to be able to drive it around and set the readiness monitors. After 50-something miles, a failed cam sensor, and a spare from the engine I took out of the '98 - enough readiness monitors were set that I took it through its last emissions test ever in the state of CT.



Got an appointment on Friday to get real tags. As you can see, there's still a few trim pieces here and there, and I badly need to get an alignment. But for the most part, she's good to go!
 
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