[PowerDubs]

As some of you may know, my AWD stopped working on the dyno a few weeks ago.

While I was reading up about possible resolutions to this, I found several threads regarding the failure of the Haldex pump.

I used Vagcom and ran an output test to turn the pump on. I got under the car and could hear it making noise, but no awd.

I had found this thread- http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4724290 a while back and that guy had a no AWD issue that he related to be a 'stuck' pump. He claims to have taken it out and simply spun it by hand to break it loose and that fixed his problem.

I also found this thread- http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4730275 about another guy with a failed pump that it appears the seal failed and it filled with nasty old oil. Problem is, the nasty oil shouldn't even be able to get to that seal to leak past because the pump has a filter on the front of it.

Next up? I found this thread- http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5038189-Haldex-filter-pic-at-90k&highlight=pump of a guy showing what his looked like with 90k on it. Pictures speak for themselves. (Mk5 R32 I believe in this case) Gross.

So I pulled my pump. This entire rear end was replaced with a brand new unit by VW *maybe* 15k miles ago if my memory is correct. The filter & fluid change interval recommended is 20k last I head and nobody has ever said to pull the pump and clean it.

I *highly* advise pulling the pump and at least cleaning the screen when doing the fluid/filter. There are only 2 bolts that hold the pump into the car.

Here is what I found on mine-

Pump, note shavings..appear to be brass.

I removed the filter and then unscrewed the plate it mounts to. Here is the underside of that plate. The camera won't focus in on it, but the oil has a glitter.

Here is the part that plate mounts to-

and here is after the pumping gear mechanism is removed.- the final cover before the electric motor itself-

and lastly the pump all cleaned out and back together, ready for reinstall.

BTW- I did pull the plate off the motor casing itself and look inside as well as check the seal. The seal looked perfect and new, the motor inner casing was clean and dry.

I'm waiting on new Haldex fluid and a filter..hope it works.. if not, I give up and will buy a new rearend. Again.

This thread- http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...pre-charge-pump-removal-disassembly-PIC-HEAVY is useful for dis-assembly and reassembly.

 

[Gti Fly]

I've got same problems with my AWD too.

It also doesn't work all the time. I've vag com'd it and got a haldex malfunction, and I'm guessing it's either the pump too.

If your pump motor is clean and dry, then could it be possibly be the haldex ecu that is at fault?

 

[ThatVdub]

I think he tried swapping the Haldex first, like Luis suggested, and it did not cure his problem.
But yes, either the pump or controller are the two major culprits to this problem.

 

[Gti Fly]

BTW,

how much oil is required to refill after this pump is pulled out for a clean?

Will ONE haldex oil cartridge suffice as per a normal oil service?

 

[armandobmx]

Good info in here :thumbup:

 

[Brake_Dust]

wonder where the brass is coming from...?

 

[climbingcue]

Hope this will fix your problems...

 

[r32autoxer]

Being turbo'd and competition controller as well...

I WILL be cleaning my pump IMMEDIATELY!!!!

gReat info...

:thumbup::thumbup::beer:

 

[treduece]

Im about to hit 20,000 since the last time i changed it. thanks for the good info on the pump.

 

[Austrian Beauty]

Interesting info. I'm sticking to less than 20K recommended fluid change, but but next time will clean the pump as well. Glad to see not too much extra time is involved.

 

[MatadoR32]

Looks like the "gross" picture came from a Volvo. They share the same type of Haldex we have. It also appears that the general enthusiast consensus is confirmed, service your Haldex fluid and filter.

And don't let the dealer do it.

P.D. - Think you might have the fluid sent out to Blackstone?

 

[vr6fanatic]

supposedly the seal that goes to with the pre charge pump goes south.

 

[Dub boy]

PowerDubs, today as I was driving on the freeway I was reflecting on what you posted in here.

I just wanted to say thank you for always being so thorough with your posts. You are a definate asset to this community. My car and I both thank you!

:thumbup::beer:

 

[GTItraveler]

very interesting..........subscribed. Thanks Josh :thumbup:

 

[robocopywriter]

Interesting.

 

[Mastiff]

supposedly the seal that goes to with the pre charge pump goes south.

yes this is true ... when oil gets past the shaft seal it devastates the carbon brushes which in turn kills the commutator bars on the armature.

 

[newcreation]

Nice Josh I will have to do that next time i change the haldex fluid

 

[BetaOp9]

I have 65k on my haldex, i'll be checking this next time its on the lift. Thank you for sharing this!

Would removal of the pump be similar on the Gen II haldex? No biggie if you don't know for sure.

 

[Gti Fly]

I have 65k on my haldex, i'll be checking this next time its on the lift. Thank you for sharing this!

Would removal of the pump be similar on the Gen II haldex? No biggie if you don't know for sure.

Well I had a look underneath the car today,

the pump doesn't look too hard to get to, just two allen bolts hold it in from what i can see,

but what concerns me is those horrible black vw electrical connectors. it looks like it's quite tight in there, and im not sure how easy it is to unhook it.


everything looks nice and dry underneath my car, so if the pump isn't broken then im guessing its the haldex ecu which might be kaput

 

[PowerDubs]

The connector is easy. Stick a flatblade in the slot and twist slightly until you hear or feel a click.. then pull to release. Same as the coilpacks. :thumbup: