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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone help me read my spark plugs? Yes i have an AFR but i didnt have anyone to read my AFR while i was on the throttle when i was driving, so i pulled plugs to see how they look. I drove for about 30 minutes on and off throttle after letting the car warm up for about 10 minutes. Here is how the plug looks (all of them look the same as this one).


The ring does look dark, im assuming its idling rich but other than that anybody able to help me read these?


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It looks like it was rich at one point and that is all you can tell. If you want to read it from a wot pull you need to shut it down, coast and pull the plugs and not let it idle down. You can check threads and strap for heat and porcelain for color. Its easier to watch the afr gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It looks like it was rich at one point and that is all you can tell. If you want to read it from a wot pull you need to shut it down, coast and pull the plugs and not let it idle down. You can check threads and strap for heat and porcelain for color. Its easier to watch the afr gauge.
Yep. AFR read 14 at the when i got wide open. When i got off and then back on it went to 13. So im unsure whats happening as to why im going lean but i guess time to trouble shoot again. Any suggestions where to start? Things i know for sure:

• Timing is set to 6 degrees BTDC
• Fuel pressure is 3.5 bar
• Injectors and injector rail wiring are brand new
• CO Pot ~250 OHM resistance currently


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Discussion Starter #7
Fuel pump issue of some kind
Awesome. Ill try that out tomorrow or sometime this week and keep you updated sir. Out of curiosity where should i check after that?

Im going to also pull the fuel filter and see if I can blow through it easily to see if its clogged or not. Im not having any stalling or weird idle issue so im not assuming the filer is bad


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Discussion Starter #10
Hi sir,

I checked fuel pressure today. It was at 3.5 bar and stayed there even under throttle. When I pushed the WOT switch though, the AFR only dropped to about 15.5-16. I read somewhere that the duty cycle of the stock injectors was 80% @ 3 bar. To which if I am at 3.5 bar wouldn't that be near maxing out the duty cycle of the injectors? Possibly need larger injectors, or maybe a new WOT switch since it isn't richening up that much with it pushed?

Here is what I am thinking currently. Possibly something wrong with the WOT switch in combination with maxing out the stock injectors? I read about the SNS chip that bypasses the WOT switch from forum pages with similar problems to mine. I was also looking into the BBM 30lb injectors as well as an option.

What do you get from this information?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Here is a list of things that I have checked or done to try to combat this lean running issue (and just for maintenance as well) so far:

  • Fuel Pressure: checked
  • Injectors: New (stock size)
  • Pump: 5k miles
  • filter: 5k miles
  • Pressure regulator: New (adjustable)
  • Injector wiring: New
  • New Intake manifold gasket
  • New Vacuum lines
  • All new spark
  • Timing set to 6 degrees BTDC

* Currently running basically all of the stage 3 kit from BBM with a 268 cam and 68mm supercharger pulley.

Apologies for the long post.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You can easily use a meter to test the wot switch. 15-16afr at high load can cause catastrophic damage, so tread carefully.
It never got like that under load thankfully. The highest i saw was 14 under a higher load. Granted that is still high. Also how would i use a meter to test the wot switch? I know i can check resistance at the idle switch harness connection but would i want to press the wot switch and check resistance? Or is there a different way?


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Discussion Starter #15
Yes you can test it with a meter across the contacts
I will give that a shot tomorrow sir. I will continuity and ohm test it. Hopefully that is all that it is. I am unsure if it is or not, but I will give it a shot to test it. Is there anything else I should take a look at while I am there in case that the WOT switch comes back fine? I feel like I am running out of things to check or test haha
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I would recommend stock Bosch w6dp0 spark plugs for your g60.
I have looked into getting these plugs recently. I have also been told to try the ones one step colder as well (Bosch W5DP0) which are sold by BBM and recommended I guess for higher performance G60's? Can anybody confirm this?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hey guys, so here is what I found when testing the WOT switch today:

* Testing @ the bottom pin:
- closed = continuity
- partial throttle = no continuity
- full throttle = no continuity (when WOT switch is pressed)
* Testing @ top pin:
- closed = no continuity
- partial throttle = no continuity
- full throttle = continuity

Since there is no continuity at full throttle when testing at the bottom pin, would that mean that something is wrong with my idle switch/wot switch? Or since there is continuity at the top pin (to which I am assuming that top pin is the one for the WOT switch) upon full throttle, then it is good?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hey guys (this was posted to another forum i am apart of as well so apologies if anybody sees this twice),

For anybody still following this thread, i made some headway. I replaced the ECU vacuum with OEM vacuum hose. It helped a bunch actually. Cruising around 2k RPM the car runs at ~14.8 AFR. When I’m driving and come to a stop, it will stay at about 14.5-14.8 AFR for a second but then slowly creep up to ~16-17.5 AFR. WOT is around 13.5-14 so still a little lean. I haven’t pulled plugs at WOT in a bit so I’m unsure if it’s just an exhaust leak causing my wideband to freak out or not but any opinions from anybody still following this thread?


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